Taking apart a LAMY 2000

[HenryLouis]

Just to add, here's a few pictures of the nib section/my dissasembling.

 

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u18/Henrylouis16/IMG_2376.jpg

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u18/Henrylouis16/IMG_2372.jpg

http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u18/Henrylouis16/IMG_2371.jpg

 

They should have made the retractable pen a 2000 with a rectracting nib... It dosen't look very different as the front of the namiki VP.

[piembi]

Does this mean its an entire new pen apart from the cap and the nib ?

 

That's pretty much what had happened to one of my L2Ks - including a new cap because I had asked for a new one due to a crack.

My L2K had been an ebay purchase of unknown age ....

[fmp]

Seeping....

 

The fiber glass section is jammed into the stainless steel hood with reverse "claws" hooking onto the fiberglass. I detroy one to gain this info.

 

So the hood can not be removed. The seeping is caused by callipary from the tip (after you remove the nib and look at the section, you can see the fine seam between the hood and the section, ink can actually goes up and seep at the upper part), this is not due to a broken section.

 

If I heat the metal part near (NOT ABOVE) candle flame, the heat will drive some ink out of the seam, both near the tip and the circular joint...

 

The hood can be temporaily blackened, but is easily cleaned.

 

While still hot, I drip molten beewax onto the circular seam, covering it the circumference but taking care to not drip wax to inside the section where ink will normally go. I heat the metal part near candle flame some more, and the wax will melt and reverse seep back into the joint. Once cooled, it seal the seam. I had to repeat this several times over a course of weeks (it take time for seeping to redevelop and indicate non-perfect wax seal...) now it does not seep from the circular seam ever again.

 

The uneven wax can be rub smooth easily... I use candle beewax because its liquid phase can help the sealing.. I have not try silicone based lube, as I suspect the lub cannot fill the seam depth and even enough to seal the leak. "Liquid Carnuaba" can potentially work too...

 

 

I think the problem show up one in maybe ten pens? And can be due to ink used, temperature, etc....

 

There is some potential risk involved with the open flame, but one may heat the section by put it in very hot water.

 

Just my two cents here, when it work, it does solve the problem, try at your own risk, ok

 

[watch_art]

I took the clip off my pen tonight, but now the little ring thingy spins. Can't get it to seat. DO I just need to press harder while pushing against it from the inside of the cap?

 

[watch_art]

Any help? I'm thinking about pulling a bit more on the spinny cap ring thingy and sticking some shellac in there and then pushing it all back together. Think that would work?

[amb]

 

Looking at this picture (not mine; quoted from above), I believe there's a missing part of the piston assembly between the big clear plastic bit (from under the blind cap) and the piston itself. It's another clear plastic piece that I believe the large clear threaded piece snaps into.

 

Does this make sense to others? My 2000s are all older models, but while they changed the external appearance several times over the years I hadn't thought the innards had changed at all!

 

PS: watch_art, I haven't actually ever taken the cap assembly apart, but I'd think that if something is suddenly needing shellac then something is actively wrong and isn't fitting right. (I'll have a go at it this evening, though, since I've got a 2000 apart anyway, which is why I dug up this thread in the first place!)

[swagginman]

Bringing this thread to life? I just disassembled the piston filler on my 2000 and re-assembled it. Now there is a click when the rear cap is reaches it's furthest distance from the nib - speaking of when the piston stopper is closest to the nib, as where it would be when you are prepared to fill the pen. Before there was an increased resistance, now there is clicking. I'm sure it's due to an inappropriate re-assembly. Though now the piston works! Thank you for any help.

[Pen2009]

Great pictures!

I've been bugged by the stiff piston of my 2K and I decided to dab silicone grease (which came with my TWSBY) with a toothpick after the front section is off. Now, the piston moves very smoothly.

[StudyAnimal]

Is it easy/safe/recommended to separate the feed from the actual nib? Does it slide off like a safari/studio or does it require a bit of light bending to flex the tabs away from the feed then come off vertically, like my parker frontier?

[Algester]

the nibs can be removed they are friction fit like much of the available Lamy pens today it may take some force but I suggest start from the base of the nib the push it... however I was not satisfied by how my local retailer for Lamy "repaired" my flow issues for my Lamy 2000 (they just pretty much took 1 month to just clean the pen and nothing more when I gave them the pen clean...very very clean...looks like we have no one to check the nib for Lamy huh heck it was also recommended that I forcefully spread the tines via heavy pressure writing which is stupid <_<)... good thing it was only flow issues via the nib being too close but I was not confident in tuning gold nibs so I had someone I know tune the nib

Edited May 28, 2014 by Algester

[dragos.mocanu]

I'm trying to unscrew the top of my cap in order to disassemble it, for better cleaning, and it won't come off...is there any way it could be glued in place? Thanks!

[Randal6393]

Not to steal thunder but both Brian Goulet and SBREBrown have YouTube videos out on dissassembling the Lamy 2000. When I needed to repair my nib due to dropping it, these videos were invaluable. Highly recommend looking them up.

 

Enjoy,

[jclewis33]

for cap, unscrew firmly...

 

for, piston, unscrew slowly, it will take some force, but it should not injure the mechanism.

 

picture attached.

Wow! I had no idea all of that was in the Lamy 2000. Thanks for posting the pic. It is interesting to see how the pen is made and assembled. I would never dream of taking mine apart like you have done here though. Would be too worried I couldn't get it back together.

[son vo]

My Lamy 2000 (broad nib) skips after I write for 2-3 lines. I don't know what is the cause of the skipping. I assume broad nib should be wet in writing which I like. Could anyone advise on how to fix this skipping? Many thanks

[PaperQueen]

Wow! I had no idea all of that was in the Lamy 2000. Thanks for posting the pic. It is interesting to see how the pen is made and assembled. I would never dream of taking mine apart like you have done here though. Would be too worried I couldn't get it back together.

 

Ditto to that---"Gray's Anatomy for Pens"...?

[yliu]

Bringing this thread to life? I just disassembled the piston filler on my 2000 and re-assembled it. Now there is a click when the rear cap is reaches it's furthest distance from the nib - speaking of when the piston stopper is closest to the nib, as where it would be when you are prepared to fill the pen. Before there was an increased resistance, now there is clicking. I'm sure it's due to an inappropriate re-assembly. Though now the piston works! Thank you for any help.

 

Resurrecting this thread again!

 

I've disassembled the piston mechanism by simply twisting it past the point at which the piston stops, as mentioned by the OP. In my case, it seemed to damage the uppermost threading on the piston. The pen still works, but I imagine that after many reassemblies, the piston will lose its threading. This could explain why your pen is experiencing clicks when extended.