What does nib "grinding" mean

[Blade Runner]

What is the definition of nib grinding?

 

When does a nib need to be reground?

 

Does grinding apply to the tipping material only?

 

What instrument is used to grind?

 

After grinding are there other steps such as smoothing?

 

 

Thanks,

Jeen

[Gerry]

What is the definition of nib grinding?

 

When does a nib need to be reground?

 

Does grinding apply to the tipping material only?

 

What instrument is used to grind?

 

After grinding  are there other steps such as smoothing?

 

 

Thanks,

Jeen

Although I suspect that there may be many different definitions possible, and possibly as many as people who do the regrinding, let me start the ball rolling...

 

What is the definition of nib grinding?

Nib Grinding is the reshaping of the nib of a fountain pen to restore it's performance after damage, or to obtain different characteristics than it originally posessed.

 

When does a nib need to be reground?

In the context of repair - when there has been enough damage to the tipping material that ordinary smoothing is not sufficient to restore good performance.

 

By far the most regrinding occurs for the purposes of altering the shape of the nib to produce another type of nib though. Changing a medium to fine, XF or XXF for example. Creating a Stub, Italic or Cursive Italic perhaps. Sometimes the upper surface is reground to produce a second 'nib' that can be used by just turning the pen over. A more infrequently employed form of grinding is used to try and create more flex in a nib, but this requires very good knowledge of the nib, materials used, and the properties of the combination.

 

Does grinding apply to the tipping material only?

Yes, generally - except for flexibility adjustments. If the tipping material is badly enough damaged, regrinding could remove the remainder of it, and then be used to form a new tip from the base steel. Retipping is preferable, but may not be economical.

 

What instrument is used to grind?

Generally hand (manual) grinding is done with sharpening stones (Arkansas, Diamond (stone or file)) or SiC sanding paper mounted on a backing surface. Some abrasive disks are available that may be used.

 

Powered grinding is usually done with a small wheel - perhaps one mounted on a MotorTool such as a Dremel. The fine disks meant for cutting can be used, provided they are backed with a firm type of backing (plastic, wood or metal disk glued on for support).

 

After grinding are there other steps such as smoothing?

Absolutely.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Gerry

Edited October 12, 2005 by Gerry

[whv]

and there you have it!

the only thing i have to add is a photo of Nagahara-san doing his thing at the '04 dc pen show courtesy pentrace and the supershow website.

[Ann Finley]

WOW, Gerry--what a great, concise, answer!

 

Best, Ann

[wimg]

Gerry,

 

Thank you for such a concise and complete set of answers!

 

Now, Jeen, before you attempt these yourself, I would like to point out to you, that the tools Gerry mentions, normally are slowed down drastically in the case of powertools, as they take off too much material too quickly otherwise, and that all the abrasive materials used, normally are very fine when compared to most of the stuff you buy in a hardware store.

 

Typically, only the finest grit Arkansas stones should be used (and that is for rough shaping!), i.e., 2500 - 4000 grit, and generally the abrasive disks or sheets used, start at 6000 or 8000 grit, and end at 12000 grit or better for final smoothing.

 

It requires a fair amount of experience to do this properly, btw, they tell me, so it is best to experiment with some inexpensive pens, if you are inclined to tackle any of this stuff yourself. Once removed material, is rather hard to add back, and unlike hair, doesn't recover after a while...

 

HTH, warm regards, Wim

[Blade Runner]

Many thanks Gerry.

 

Having used fps for many years, it's one of those questions I've been meaning to ask, but felt too embarrassed to ask.

 

 

Regards,

Jeen

[Guest Denis Richard]

Gerry,

 

Great answer ! I think that would deserve to be pinned somewhere.

 

Jeen,

 

there is really no reason to be embarrassed by any question here. I personally excel in embarrassing myself regularly, but somehow FPNers (aka FPNuts™) are kind enough not to laugh at me silly. It's an Art on FPN.

[Gerry]

Thanks for the kind words guys...

 

When I mentioned the Dremel, I should have stipulated it would have to be a variable speed one. The technique I was hinting at - with the cutting disk - is what Richard Binder uses (and it's pretty neat, as the cutting disk is significantly finer than any of the usual grinding wheels that are commonly available).

 

I was intrigued by the setup employed by the master - Nagahara-san at the DC show (thanks whv). I wonder if anyone has any knowledge of the grinding wheels he uses - grit, composition etc. The idea of having three or so on a shaft is intriguing and using a wheel rotating toward oneself allows you to work below the wheel, where you can see the result without moving the nib very far.

 

So now I'm thinking of some adaptation like that - I'd love to use a DC motor with a PWM speed control... but that's another hobby...

 

Gerry