Georgian (?) writing slope restoration

[Marta Brito-Martins]

Hello, all,

 

I am new here. After having acquired an antique writing slope (a long-time goal of mine), I am now faced with the daunting task of correctly restoring it. As a non-UK national (and non-resident, at the moment), I have come here to ask the experts' advice as to a few doubts of mine. I have a restorer who will be doing the majority of the wood restoration, per se. My issues are of a more practical nature (please refer to pictures for full comprehension):

 

1. One of the metal levers is for releasing the hidden panel. And what of the other? The one that unfortunately ground through the wood and when I moved it around, came out, screw and all? What is its purpose?

 

2. Also, the black frame, around the skiver. My restorer tells me it's ebonised and that I should keep it (I've seen a few boxes with lovely wood veneers and thought I'd prefer that, along with a maroon or dark green skiver). So... replace that skiver with more black leather and restore the ebonisation?

 

3. What is the purpose of the little tray, that barely fits under the hidden compartment (it scrapes it, badly and I imagine, would eventually lose the ebonisation) and has little wooden inserts (like Asian altars) that go where the whiter stains can be seen (I picked them up and they came out easily, unglued).

 

4. What size / shape ink bottle should I get? One that sits flush with the sides of the square meant for it, or one with more leg room? What would be the ideal size and height, especially? ( know it cannot be higher than the lowest inclination of the other half of the box, naturally)

 

5. The pen tray is also unfortunately missing - should the length of it be the full length of the compartment (as I see in other, more complete, boxes) and how were they released from its cradle (the visible narrow strips of thin wood on each side) if no room is left on each end, when it's in place?

 

6. Should the remaining compartments (the one with the metal levers to release the secret panel and the other, unknown, one) have a lid or were they meant to be open? What was to go in that other one?

 

7. What material should I use to replace the bottom of the box?

 

8. In polishing/finishing, are the brass bits to be carefully removed, treated/polished and then re-glued to the wood? Or is everything done in situ? (more curiosity) If removed, how are they removed? Heat? Brute force? 😉

 

9. Do the hinges look period?

 

10. I am trying to source a link plate (missing and torn rather violently, apparently). Should I strive to source a period one, or just have a new one made? How easy are replacement pieces to find? (No key, obviously)

 

Guess that was mostly it, thank you to anyone who can help with any pointers. 😉

 

Marta

Edited January 27 by Marta Brito-Martins
Grammatical error

[my63]

Hi Marta 

That is a beautiful box looks very much like a campaign style there is a site called Hygra.com if my memory is still working where you can find more details.

1. Metal ( spring steel) is not used often so will have a purpose, the hidden compartment is spring loaded, there is a wooden panel that covers the metal parts in you first picture, your mystery metal piece might be the spring for the missing piece of wood. Your restorer should be able to fill the screw hole so it fits again. 

2. The ebonised wood is part of the design of the box and I would keep it.

3. The tray with the ebonised top is for small items the raised parts are for stamps and the like. If you were travelling the world hundreds of years ago you would need to have places to keep bits and pieces. The white stains could be from glue, your restorer will advise on how to refit them.

4. Ink bottles are not my thing I would buy what fits, I am sure others will have a view.

5. The pen tray sits on top of the side pieces. It is almost full length to remove the tray you press on one end and the angled side pieces allow it to lift the opposite end. This is why it does not completely fill the slot.

6. The small compartment would have had a wooden cover the release for the secret panel was always well hidden sometimes worked by a pin or by lifting one of the side panels one of yours looks loose. I have helped many people over the years to find how to unlock secret panels.

7. Most people think the base cover is felt but it is usually baize similar material.

8. Clean the brass in place carefully, hinges can be removed easily for cleaning. Steam will remove the hide glue however it is also used to hold the veneer and joints. Leave well alone would be my advice.

9. Hinges look original.

10. Not sure what a link plate is if you are talking about a lock plate the they used to come up on ebay frequently even the three slot that goes with your lock. These locks are quite simple often single lever and keys can be made fairly easily.

I hope this information is of use to you and helps you to restore your writing slope.

Michael

 

[Mark from Yorkshire]

 That looks a nice box I hope the restoration goes well and we get to see after pictures 

[Marta Brito-Martins]

my63 (not sure this is the way to answer, seen as there's no "reply" button to each kind reply):

 

Thank you SO much for your reply! I've been trying to find someone to help me with the restoration and no luck, thus far, so you're a Godsend! 😉

 

Funnily enough, after leaving this request yesterday, I did find 2 very interesting pics on two of my questions - how to release the pen tray and whether or not the brasses were simply glued to the wood (they're not!).

 

I did browse the hygra site yesterday and that's where I got the pics that I'm posting today. 😉

 

So... a few more questions, sorry for bending your ear a tick... 😉

 

1. Any idea of the time this box was made? I read something I think you wrote about the fact that the pull-outs for the secret drawers being ribbon and not bone or ivory makes them earlier boxes, but I was curious as to how old it might be. Might I be committing a sin if I ask the restorer to polish the insides? Drawers, bottoms, sides and undersides?

 

2. What do you mean about the box being a "campaign style"? I thought they were all to be carried around wars and stuff, or maybe only the ones with the recessed handles?

 

3. Could you please explain your sentence better? I'm not understanding what you mean. " (...) there is a wooden panel that covers the metal parts in your first picture." So, you mean that on this post's picture number 6 (that I'm reposting, bottom part), there would be a slanted piece of wood that would cover the ugly release mechanisms? But then how could one pick it up? You mean the release mechanism that was ground and is now in pieces... was somehow there to allow for the slanted square of wood to be released out of the slot? And how would that piece of wood sit, if there are no side "aides", like the ones on the pen tray?

 

4. I realise that you're not an expert on inkwells, but do you have any idea if there is an antique store or place in the UK I could try to source one from, other than eBay? The same for the pen tray + little release mechanism cover? Regarding this last one, if I end up having one made, should it be slanted? (I simply assumes as I saw this in other boxes). How to fit it, due to the lack of supports? What was that space used for? Nibs?

 

5. Anywhere the "go to" place for baizes? What colour would you go for?

 

6. "Link" plate - as was described by eBay seller in pics. I did find this one, but the seller mentioned: "the closest fit I have is as shown in the two photos. The width is 9mm. Thickness of plate approximately 1.5mm. Without the lock I would be unable to say on its suitability, but it looks to be a good match. Do you have a key for your lock? The jaws work on a spring retained single plate internally, so are quite easy to fashion a key for." Problem was, I measured my opposing plate (where the jaws of the lock come through, next pics) and it's 10mm width and 1mm thickness... do you think I should go ahead and take a risk on this piece, or try to source a new lock altogether? If keeping this lock, should I clean it of rust and oil it (or ask restorer to do so)?

 

7. Should I have something like the next pic done to the underside of the writing surface? To hold letters, I would imagine? Or, since there are no wholes where possible drawing pins/thumb tacks might've once stood, this means my box never had them, and so... leave well alone? 😉

 

8. What is your opinion on the colour of the replacement skiver? Should I keep it black (i.e., do you think the one on my box is original or might someone have replaced it with another colour?)

 

9. Last but not least, the letter the seller of the box found within and sent, with the purchase. I'm thinking of having it restored as well, but not sure I should laminate it or just place it in a clear plastic sleeve?

 

10. I'm sure there may be more questions, but enough for tonight 😉 Don't wish to abuse your willingness and kindness!

 

Many thanks,

Regards,

Marta

 

Edited January 28 by Marta Brito-Martins

[Marta Brito-Martins]

Mark from Yorkshire,

 

Thank you for your words of encouragement! I will indeed post pics once the project is complete. It might be a while, though, as I need to source quite a few items and don't know how soon I will be able to. eBay is not being very helpful and I don't know where else to look.

 

Best regards, Marta

[Bo Bo Olson]

Beautiful job.

The first writing slope I bid on, I was too noobie to know it's real worth, so didn't bid hard.

The others I looked at in live auctions were not as good as the first and went for that first one's price or more. I didn't bid, in I'd seen better.

[Marta Brito-Martins]

Bo Bo Olson, thank you for your words. Mine was a steal at £110 (despite the pieces missing). But I'd been looking for a long, long while. There was a vanity box, rosewood, also on eBay that I forgot to bid on and went for a ridiculous price (something like £200) and that, I'll never forget. But hey, we learn and move forwards, right? Next time, they won't escape us. But price checking is ALWAYS a good idea.

 

😉

Good luck with your search! Marta

[Bo Bo Olson]

Thanks.....

I am picky........................... But I now know a master cabinetmaker.

 

First comes pen repair....been saying that for a couple of years, and only getting pens repaired at half the speed needed.

[knarflj]

@Marta Brito-Martins, I know nothing useful to help with your writing slope project, although I look forward to seeing your progress.  I think I can help with replies directed to specific persons, though.  Start by typing the "@" character, and follow that immediately with the beginning of the name of the person you're addressing.  The software will give you suggestions, and when you see the one you're looking for, select that.  You will end up with that person's name looking just as yours does in this post, and the person in question will receive a notification that you have addressed a comment to them.

 

If you'd like to react to a specific thing another person says, you can click the "Quote" button at the end of their post; then that post will show up as a quotation in your reply (you can edit the quote in your reply, btw).  If you want to quote multiple posts in a single reply, click the plus sign by the quote button for each post you want to reply to, then compose your reply.

I hope you will find this helpful, and that you have good success with your restoration project!

[Marta Brito-Martins]

@knarflj

Ah, perfect!

 

Thank you SO much! 😉

[knarflj]

  On 2/1/2025 at 2:09 AM, Marta Brito-Martins said:

@knarflj

Ah, perfect!

 

Thank you SO much! 😉

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You're very welcome!