Antique mall find, old Waterman's fountain pen

[Kloz]

I found this pen in an antique store yesterday and could not pass it up.  Can anyone tell me a little more about it?

 

 

 

[pen lady]

1949 (ish) Taperite Crusader.  A pretty straightforward lever fill pen to restore but sometimes the plastic can be a bit brittle.  The anodized aluminum caps are often a bit worn (as is yours) but if you like a semi-hooded nib, they are good users and often found reasonably priced.  Nice find. 

[Mr.Rene]

Was said!

[Kloz]

I paid $10. for it and I don't have a Waterman so...  I like the look and it's in nice shape except for the cap.  I dipped it and it wrote nice.  Any idea how it breaks down?  The lever won't move so probably needs a j-bar and a sack.

[Ron Z]

6 hours ago, pen lady said:

 A pretty straightforward lever fill pen to restore but sometimes the plastic can be a bit brittle. 

 

Indeed.  Waterman pretty much glued the section into the barrel, so they can be difficult to remove without cracking or warping the barrel.  I did one at the NYC show early on in the business.  When I handed the restored pen to it's owner he turned to his friend and said, "You owe me a beer."

[davisgt]

I have one in my collection.  I've never used it. Doubt I will now based on Ron's post. 😏

[Kloz]

Any tips for success you are willing to share with the class?  besides "DON'T DO IT"🤣

[Ron Z]

 Really, sometimes it's hard to put 35 years of feeling your way through repairs into words.   I still screw them up from time to time.  I really don't care for the later Watermans like this one because of the way the materials behave and the way the pens were put together.

 

Gentle heat, don't get too "happy" trying to get it open NOW.  A little wiggle, and pretend that the section unscrews.  Be patient.  Grip over the threads with one pair of section pliers, the section with another pair. Sometimes you have to give it a sharp TWIST after warming the joint, and holding the parts that way.  Yes, I have more than two pairs of section pliers in my tool box.

[Kloz]

Thank you for the tip.  I'll go slow.  Does soaking in warm water help any?  How should I heat the pen to do the least damage?  And if I fail, I'm only out $10 so not the end of the world.  I'm already liking my Esterbrook's more.  If I do succeed what sack size do I need?  Sorry for all the questions.  

 

Thank you for all your advice

[inkstainedruth]

4 hours ago, Ron Z said:

 

Indeed.  Waterman pretty much glued the section into the barrel, so they can be difficult to remove without cracking or warping the barrel.  I did one at the NYC show early on in the business.  When I handed the restored pen to it's owner he turned to his friend and said, "You owe me a beer."

That's a great story!

Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth

[pen lady]

Use a hairdryer as your heat-source if you don't have a heat gun. Listen to Ron, take it slow, turn the pen  round and round in the flow of hot air.  When you do get it open, I think it takes a #16 sac, there's no "J" bar, Waterman used a pressure bar that hooked on to the inside of the lever. Try to keep it in the correct orientation if it comes out of the barrel.  There's a right way and a wrong way.  Why do we do this to ourselves?????🤣

[Ron Z]

While a hair dryer is fine (I used one for years) I use an embossing gun, about 2" away from the opening.  The reason is that the heat is more focused than a hair dryer or a larger heat gun so that you don't heat more area than you need to.  Keep the pen moving - rotating constantly so that the heat application is even.  Check the temperature regularly.  If it's too hot to hold for a few seconds, it's too hot.  If too hot, let it cool a bit.  In this case, heat the thread area so that you don't soften the plastic of the area behind it.

 

I consider this to be a high risk repair.  That isn't to discourage you, but to encourage you to think and pay close attention as you work.

 

...and read this article.

[GlenV]

I certainly like nibs on some of the taperites, most are lots better than a steel nib since nice gold feel, but I'm not comfortable with section pliers as much as I'm not used to them, but have been able to get these open ok with hairdryer like Ron advised, it may come apart ok with patient gentle wiggling and repeated heat while feeling against the lip (don't touch the metal part to the lip though.. to see how hot (some are more friendly than others to work on, less brittle) If yours is cooperative then just soak the section and blow out to clean it, don't try to get the nib out! I like to write with taperites, and I think they can be quite nice, unfortunate that the celluloid they were made from has proven poor over time. I have had more trouble with the red colored ones most look pretty much black until you shine a light behind them, yours looks like it is black. (don't be hasty because it was not expensive for you, it's still a nice pen)

[Kloz]

Thank you everyone for the advice.  I will attempt disassembly.  wish me luck

[Ceilidh]

On 11/14/2024 at 2:22 PM, Ron Z said:

 

Indeed.  Waterman pretty much glued the section into the barrel, so they can be difficult to remove without cracking or warping the barrel.  I did one at the NYC show early on in the business.  When I handed the restored pen to it's owner he turned to his friend and said, "You owe me a beer."

(Chuckle.) Well done, Mr. Zorn.

[kestrel]

On 11/14/2024 at 4:45 PM, Kloz said:

Thank you for the tip.  I'll go slow.  Does soaking in warm water help any?  How should I heat the pen to do the least damage?  And if I fail, I'm only out $10 so not the end of the world.  I'm already liking my Esterbrook's more.  If I do succeed what sack size do I need?  Sorry for all the questions.  

 

Thank you for all your advice

 

4 hours ago, Kloz said:

Thank you everyone for the advice.  I will attempt disassembly.  wish me luck

Take heart.  I just finished resurrecting an open nib Taperite a few weeks ago.  Yes, getting the section out was "challenging."  Nerve wracking migh be a better term.  I used a lot of soaking, some in an ultrasonic, and repeated applications of heat.  I have osteoarthritis in both hands so the two section pliers technique is not an option for me.  Instead, I use one of those soft rubber gripper pads that normal people use to open stuck jar lids to hold the barrel and section pliers to gently work the section.  I used heat again to help reinsert the section.

Do not think of this as a $10.00 pen.  It is worth considerably more than that and Taperites are fine writers.  The key to getting that section out is patience, patience, and more patience.

[Toll]

What a very interesting read — it appears this repair is not for the faint hearted — looking forward to an update!

[Kloz]

Success!!!!  

 

I used a hair dryer and a VERRY CAUTIOUS wiggling motion. twisting was getting me no ware. Verry nerve racking.

I did a little polishing and it looks great.  I need to finish removing the sack from the nib.  Does anyone have a sack I can buy?

 

 

 

 

[pen lady]

Well done!  Make sure you remove all traces of the old sac from the nipple.  You might have to scrape/chip it away, but it is essential.  As I remember these pens take a #16 or #18 sac, you seem to be in the US, there are plenty of suppliers on this side of the Atlantic. You will also need some shellac to attach the sac and some talc to ''dry-lube'' it inside the barrel.  And don't loose that trim-ring!!!!

Edited November 21, 2024 by pen lady
for clarity

[Ron Z]

5 hours ago, pen lady said:

talc to ''dry-lube'' it inside the barrel.

 

...as in pure talc.  Baby power etc. have other things in it that can damage a sac.  Pure talc is available on Ebay and Amazon.