Capless/Vanishing Point connector fix ...if you own a Capless please read!

[awa54]

I had always heard that the faceted barrel Capless had issues with the button end of the barrel breaking or the threads stripping, now that I finally own one I can see why they have that reputation!

 

The metal threads that the barrel attaches to on this pen are very sharp where the cut for the alignment pin on the writing unit interrupts them, this means that they scrape away at the plastic barrel threads every time you remove and attach the barrel.

I quickly decided that I needed to modify the pen so that this didn't wind up eroding the plastic half of the threads to the point of looseness or destruction, so I carefully rounded the rough/sharp metal thread ends with a fine file and sand paper. This simple modification makes the barrel thread on much smoother and eliminates the wear problem.

 

 

 

[Lithium466]

Good thinking!

(also that's exactly what Majohn did on the A2)

[Ron Z]

The sharp edges certainly cause problems so deburring is a good idea.  But the metal to plastic threads are a problem because of the hard metal rubs against and wears the softer plastic.  But tightening the barrel (button) end against the cap is  a problem too.  We don't want the barrel to shift or come loose, but making it too tight causes the plastic to crack.   I've been repairing these for about 12 years, and see cracked barrels more often than I do stripped threads.  Majohn copied a lot from the Namiki VP in their A2, including the flawed thread design.  There's an article on my blog if you're interested.  I have yet to have one returned because the repair has failed.

 

.

[inkstainedadventure]

3 hours ago, Ron Z said:

The sharp edges certainly cause problems so deburring is a good idea.  But the metal to plastic threads are a problem because of the hard metal rubs against and wears the softer plastic.  But tightening the barrel (button) end against the cap is  a problem too.  We don't want the barrel to shift or come loose, but making it too tight causes the plastic to crack.   I've been repairing these for about 12 years, and see cracked barrels more often than I do stripped threads.  Majohn copied a lot from the Namiki VP in their A2, including the flawed thread design.  There's an article on my blog if you're interested.  I have yet to have one returned because the repair has failed.

 

.

Do you still do this repair? If so, how much? Cause it would be worth it for my poor pen.

[Ron Z]

Yes, I do.  Contact me back channel by email....

[awa54]

15 hours ago, Ron Z said:

The sharp edges certainly cause problems so deburring is a good idea.  But the metal to plastic threads are a problem because of the hard metal rubs against and wears the softer plastic.  But tightening the barrel (button) end against the cap is  a problem too.  We don't want the barrel to shift or come loose, but making it too tight causes the plastic to crack.   I've been repairing these for about 12 years, and see cracked barrels more often than I do stripped threads.  Majohn copied a lot from the Namiki VP in their A2, including the flawed thread design.  There's an article on my blog if you're interested.  I have yet to have one returned because the repair has failed.

 

.

 

 

That's a great looking fix Ron!

 

Do you do the machining in-house?

 

[Ron Z]

All done in house....