Finally, I can take m1000 nib apart

[dbs]

It is easy!

 

My m1000 was a good writer, but gradually, it became harder and harder to start, and skips almost every time. Carefully inspection found the gold only touches the tip of the feeder, slightly. However, the classical question is, how to take m1000 nib apart? There's no success example I can refer.

 

Here is how:

1) Buy a Uniball UMN-S gel pen (target, walmart etc, $2 each), the inner diameter of the top barrel is exactly 8mm (pelikan m1000 nib diameter is 7.5mm)

2) Put nib tip down to the Uniball barrel, nib wing is larger than 8mm but it is easy to get pressed in without any scratch.

3) slightly knock the end of the feeder, be careful, the feeder has a knob on the upper side (to determine the feeder/nib orientation), don't damage this knob with Uniball barrel

4) Once feeder is out, you can pull out the nib

 

I used eyeglass plier to correct the nib shape. To make it more flatter so more contact area to the feeder.

Pelikan's feeder is a simple feeder, no dent to determine the nib orientation. The orientation of nib is determine by the slot on the inner surface of the nib collar. The extend length of the nib is determine by the hole inside the section. If you push nib too deep, the nib unit cannot screw down. 

 

To assemble:

1) Install feeder to nib collar first (must follow this step). There's a dent on the collar and a extend knob on the nib. It is very easy to align and push in.

2) now slightly push in the nib to the nib collar gap. There's only one direction one location you can push in the nib. Need no excessive force. Just push in. When you see gold at the edge of bottom edge of the collar, stop.

3) Screw the nib to section and test writing.

 

Other thoughts:

At first I use knock or excessive force to assemble nib/feeder together but never success -- every time the nib cannot align to the feeder. But when I insert feeder first, the nib can be slight in every easily. Maybe the knock out to dissemble is totally not necessary. Maybe I just need a thin piece of metal to push the end of the nib to remove, without touch the feeder. 

 

 

 

 

 

[deuter]

I too have an issue with the start stop with my newly acquired M1000. 
This a known issue? I thought it was the bubbles in the ink prior to me filling it up.

[dbs]

Some m1000 nib's gold plate is too thin, if you write heavy, it will easily move further away from the feeder and cause skipping.

 

Also, if you check carefully, m1000 nib has a domed shape, only tip of the nib touches the feeder. the rest is in the air gap. If you use slow flow ink it will not flow quickly to the feeder tip due to gravitation (and lack of surface tension to pull down).

 

Newly made Pelikan m1000 feeder tip is melt down to fit the nib better. I have two new nib units, one from a Singapore seller, another from Appelboom, all bought this year, all have bent feeder tip, and they all write very well.

[Mercian]

31 minutes ago, dbs said:

Some m1000 nib's gold plate is too thin

It isn’t ‘gold plate’; the nib is made of solid 18-karat gold.

 

But, as you say, writing with a lot of pressure could cause that gold to deform plastically (i.e. to get permanently-bent out of its initial shape), because gold is a soft and ‘ductile’ metal.

The more-pure the gold is, the less likely a nib is to deform elastically (i.e. to bend out of its initial shape, and then bounce back into that shape, like a spring would).

 

18-karat gold is 75% pure gold.
Nibs made out of 14-karat gold (58.5% gold) can be made to be more ‘springy’ than can 18-karat gold.

[Karmachanic]

1 hour ago, deuter said:

I too have an issue with the start stop with my newly acquired M1000.

 

Did you flush it before inking?

[deuter]

29 minutes ago, Karmachanic said:

 

Did you flush it before inking?

I didn’t, it’s a new pen. I probably should have.

[marlinspike]

The M1000 nib design intentionally only touches the feeder at the tip. This gives it its distinct feel, but makes it very susceptible to being damaged from flexing it. When I damaged mine, I sent it to mikeitwork.com. He warned me that the design is in his mind defective as it is so prone to damage from use, and suggested he make it more traditional, but I like the feel and he humored me by restoring it to how it should be when new in Pelikan's vision, and now I know not to use it like it can flex. 

[marlinspike]

2 hours ago, deuter said:

I didn’t, it’s a new pen. I probably should have.

I have taken to washing a nib and feed out with diluted dish soap every time I buy a pen, after having so many "fixed" by this. I assume there must be some cutting oils used in the manufacture of pens. I've even had a pen that hard started for half a bottle of ink that was fixed by this. I would have thought somewhere in that half bottle of ink use it would have cleaned itself, but I guess not.

[dbs]

6 hours ago, Mercian said:

It isn’t ‘gold plate’; the nib is made of solid 18-karat gold.

 

 

 

Gold plate, means sheet of gold, plate refers to thin sheet metal, not gold plating.

[Mercian]

8 hours ago, dbs said:

 

Gold plate, means sheet of gold, plate refers to thin sheet metal, not gold plating.

Thank you 

 

I composed my previous reply to you late at night, after drinking on an empty head 

[dbs]

I just found m1005 nib design is very different to m1000. It is more flatter and has two oval holes. Due to existing holes, it creates extra friction and is very very hard to assemble back.

[Bo Bo Olson]

From '98 to @ 2010 when Bock made the Pelikan nibs and the 1000 was the last one taken back In-House, Bock made 1000's were semi-flex.

Everyone disliked the Bock nibs because they were stiffer, had a double ball tipping....outside the 200 until about 5 years ago. Bock had made Pelikan nibs EXACTLY to Pelikan's specks....so there were no chages, out side the 1000's nib going from semi-flex....which is a flair nib...not a flex nib...it's semi-flex, not semi-flex.

 

Regular flex what the post 2010 1000's nib is, if well mashed will go 3X a light line, but one can not write with a regular flex/Japanese 'soft' nib so maxed out. If one is somewhat heavy handed 2 X can be achieved, but it is more a 'soft' springy nib.

I was heavy handed my self from decades of ball point use....

I use the forefinger up method of grasping a fountain pen...an automatic light grip...don't need 6 months to a year  to develop a light grip in Classic Tripod.

[Bo Bo Olson]

An old post of how to hold a fountain pen, and lightly.

 

Italic is held before the big index knuckle and the nib is canted @ 45 degrees, and the drawing of letters is done in a push pull movement.

Regular pens 'rests' after the big index knuckle at 45 degrees, or 40 degrees at the start of the web of the thumb.....depending on how long and heavy the pen is. If long and heavy it 'rests; in the pit of the web of the thumb....at 35 degrees, taking weight off the nib.

 

Classic tripod the thumb is at 10 O'clock, the forefinger at 2, and the middle finger at 6.

However, because of the 10-2, pressure is often until one spends some 6-9 months learning to hold very lightly, way too much, leading to the Death Grip with accompanying Deadly Kung Fu Thumb Pinch.

Folks are use to plowing the south 40 with out the mule with a ball point, so use too much pressure. No pressure is needed, in if the pen is held after the big index knuckle, it floats on a small puddle of ink.

If held before the big index knuckle, it has too tiny a puddle and one gouges little grand canyons into the paper.

(Italic of course is different.)

 

I use the 'forefinger up', way of grasping a fountain pen, an automatic light grip, which takes three minutes to learn.

Standard or medium-large pens should be posted for better balance and then they are not 'too small', as some claim who refuse to post a pen so designed.

Many Large and Oversized pens are too clunky posted....

 

Finally made some pictures of the 'forefinger up' method of grasping a fountain pen. An automatic light grip...............no more Death Grip.....and remember to keep the thumb a flat dam....no Kung Fu Death Pinch....

The Classic Tripod puts pressure down on the pen from the 10&2 positions.

With the thumb held flat at 08:30-09:00 there can be no down pressure. The forefinger rests on the top of the pen.

The pen will not somersault out of your hand.

Move the pen from the nail joint to 1/3 inch into the fat of the finger pad.

Pens used a Pelikan 400 and a 605.

It takes three minutes to learn, will take some three days to become real accustomed to it....which is better than the 3 months to a year it takes to lighten a Classic Tripod with it's built in over pressure finger and thumb positions....along with the cocked high pressure Kung Fu Thumb Death Grip.

 

I learned this on the com....having a painful dent at my middle finger joint...that was a bit of nerve damage more than likely from Death Grip ball points; that didn't go away with Death Grip held fountain pens.

 

This shows a flat thumb. Bow of the forefinger good....as you will see one can bend it a bit....but you don't want an 'elbow' bend in the forefinger....in that will cause unneeded pressure.

Showing where the pen should rest on the middle finger pad....away from the nail junction.And a 12:00-12:30 resting forefinger position.

Fairly good forefinger up positions. The thumbnail is 1/3 past the forefinger crease....for a higher hold.....a tad too much forefinger bend...but acceptable, in comfort is the main thing...but it is not bent. No mid finger joint poking up in the air like an elbow.

Here the thumb is higher up the barrel...near the forefinger pad crease.

 

With the thumbnail at the crease of the forefinger joint the pen will rest deeper into your hand, more at a 40 degree angle at the start of the web of your thumb....If the thumbnail is a tad before the forefinger crease the pen will rest higher close to 45 degrees.

If you are more comfortable there with 'that' pen. A pen should rest where it wishes....if heavier or longer a bit deeper in to the web of the thumb.

It's your decision, but by moving just the thumbnail a bit down from the forefinger crease, your pens angle will be higher to right after the index knuckle....if you wish.

Above...flat thumb.

 

A fairly straight forefinger up.....comfort is part....a bit of bow in the forefinger is not bad....as long as it's only a bit.............when you have bent the knuckle that is too much.

Just a slightly wider pen.

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[tacitus]

On 4/30/2024 at 1:42 AM, dbs said:

I just found m1005 nib design is very different to m1000. It is more flatter and has two oval holes. Due to existing holes, it creates extra friction and is very very hard to assemble back.

Hello, @dbs. Thank you for your photo.

Is there any difference in writing feeling, ink flow, and the width of written letters between two EF nibs? 

[dbs]

1 hour ago, tacitus said:

Hello, @dbs. Thank you for your photo.

Is there any difference in writing feeling, ink flow, and the width of written letters between two EF nibs? 

 

No, but those two are all bought before 2019. However, I bought a new nib from Appelboom last month, that EF nib writes more like EF line and little stiffer (but still soft comparing to Montblanc‘s). 

[deuter]

Pensworld has stopped responding to my emails on replacing the new M1000. I am quite certain the nib is faulty as it makes a click sound at least twice in a sentence.

[dbs]

I  have bought 4 m1000 in past 5 years:

 

1) First m1005 has a lot of skips, I contacted Pelikan and they refused to service. I told them I can pay cash,  But they still refused to service

2) I sold m1005 and bought another m1005. The exchange cost me nothing due to dramatic increasing of m1005 market price.

3) I bought m1000 to replace m1005, which also had a lot of skips, but this m1000 still has a lot of skips

4) I bought another m1000 and a m1000 nib, but this time I managed to dissemble m1000/m1005 nibs and fixed the skip issue. The new nib and new m1000 are still sitting in the box.

 

Now both my fixed m1000 and m1005 write well. But you can tell m1000/m1005 is not good for daily writing. If you write a lot, better get a Montblanc 149 -- it has totally different level of reliability.

[tacitus]

Why do the M1000 nibs skip so easily? Is it because the tines of the nib open with just a little force and the ink supply from the feed cannot keep up?

[deuter]

2 hours ago, dbs said:

I  have bought 4 m1000 in past 5 years:

 

1) First m1005 has a lot of skips, I contacted Pelikan and they refused to service. I told them I can pay cash,  But they still refused to service

2) I sold m1005 and bought another m1005. The exchange cost me nothing due to dramatic increasing of m1005 market price.

3) I bought m1000 to replace m1005, which also had a lot of skips, but this m1000 still has a lot of skips

4) I bought another m1000 and a m1000 nib, but this time I managed to dissemble m1000/m1005 nibs and fixed the skip issue. The new nib and new m1000 are still sitting in the box.

 

Now both my fixed m1000 and m1005 write well. But you can tell m1000/m1005 is not good for daily writing. If you write a lot, better get a Montblanc 149 -- it has totally different level of reliability.

Its such a let down tbh, It my most expensive pen and I prefer all the rest.

[marlinspike]

I have to say this is odd because my overall experience with Pelikan (I own 5 at the moment but have owned a total of 7) is that they are super reliable, and with Montblanc (I have 11) they were hit or miss but mostly miss until 7 years go or so.

So, not able to keep track of your experience since there are multiple pens of similar model numbers, what do you currently have and what are the current problems and maybe we can help  you fix them.