Cleaning device

[SwordsMightBeMightier]

Would anyone have any recommendations about best ways to clean pens.

 

I have frequently seen listings for restored pens that mention the pens have been “ultra sonically cleaned”. Is there a specific device or brand of device that is better than others. I have a number of pens that need cleaning and trying to figure how best to start at it. Pens as far back as eyedroppers to current day modern pens.

 

also asking here because I’m not sure if there are any methods specific to Parker’s that I should make sure to do.

 

I don’t plan on using the ultrasonic device/s on the eyedroppers. But if anyone has tips on best practices here please do let me know.

 

thanks

[amberleadavis]

I've owned a few ultrasonic cleaners.  The mistake I made was letting things soak for too long.  First start with clear water - then soapy (I like Dawn) water - then flush it clear again.  That's  all you really have to do usually.

[SwordsMightBeMightier]

Thanks!

[kestrel]

Some vintage pens are made of or contain parts made of a protein called casein.  Never, ever let a pen with a casein part near an ultrasonic bath or soak them in water.  The pen does a spectacular imitation of the Wicked Witch after Dorothy throws the water on her. 

 

If you are tossing the entire pen in the bath make absolutely, positively, undeniably sure that all metal parts are most sincerely dry lest they rust or corrode.

 

The gold "plating" on some very low quality, sub third tier pens may disappear during an ultrasonic treatment.  This is especially true if there is even a hint of pitting or exfoliation corrosion on the nib.

 

Finally, if a nib/feed are really clogged and nothing else works try bathing in Rapidoeze.  I put the section in an old 35 mm film can which I then place in the ultrasonic bath to make things neater.  A shot glass works as well as a film can.

[SwordsMightBeMightier]

Thanks!

 

is there a “best” way to just get gunk off of a barrel cap. Lots of more modern pens that just have sticky gunk all over them. I’m assuming the ultrasonic thing is mostly for cleaning ink.

 

am I right or wrong about that?

[AndyLogan]

9 hours ago, SwordsMightBeMightier said:

Thanks!

 

is there a “best” way to just get gunk off of a barrel cap. Lots of more modern pens that just have sticky gunk all over them. I’m assuming the ultrasonic thing is mostly for cleaning ink.

 

am I right or wrong about that?

 

What I do is get a Q tip and soak the cotton part with water and use that to clean the inner part of the cap, do this 3-4 times then repeat using a dry Q tip, you could also use a rolled up kleenex tissue partly wet with water, repeat until it comes out clean, don't forget to follow through with a dry tissue so as to prevent rust in some of the metal parts of the inner cap.

[welch]

Note: if you put a P-61 into a sonic cleaner, you will lose the hood arrow...if your 61 still has one. 

[Ron Z]

A 35W ultrasonic, 50W max, is all that you need for pen cleaning.  The tank doesn't have to be very big.   Dawn is a good cleaner.  A few drops is enough.   I recommend a couple of 3 minute cycles at most.  I don't immerse the barrel of any pen, or the cap, but do use the Ultrasonic to clean every nib unit.  A bit of Dawn and a test tube, or spray gun cleaning brush (Harbor Freight) works very well. 

 

Removing simple schmutz from the cap can sometimes be done with naphtha, especially adhesives.  Maybe Wenol, which is what I prefer to use over Simichrome,

[es9]

10 hours ago, Ron Z said:

I don't immerse the barrel of any pen

Because of the risk of staining? 

 

10 hours ago, Ron Z said:

Dawn is a good cleaner.  A few drops is enough.

No ammonia? 

[Vintagepens]

Ammonia solutions should not be used on 14K gold nibs.
It took a long time before the connection was made, but ammonia is the main culprit for all those heel cracks on vintage gold nibs. The effects are slow but irreversible.
Read more here:
https://vintagepensblog.blogspot.com/2014/09/ammonia-stress-corrosion-cracking-and.html

[Vintagepens]

There are always exceptions, but in general there is no need to immerse anything but the nib-section assembly. Both barrels and caps have nooks and crannies which will retain moisture, and often there are metal parts that will start to corrode if gotten wet. Staining is another issue, too, as is fading.