Waterman C/F Fountain Pen

[NickJC]

This may have been discussed - if it has sorry for the dupe post - however, I hope this helps someone.

 

Picked up three C/F's and noticed among the three - each have seemingly different internal barrel dimensions

 

Two are plastic(?) one is the internal plastic and gold filled shell

 

Luckily one of the pens came with a cache of cartridges, some NOS (good ink), some old dried up stock.

 

I know that you can fill these cartridges with a syringe - but after time that mechanical connection will start to leak - how long? I have zero data to support any mention of a timeframe - but being it is plastic, it is bound to at some point.

 

So in an effort to not have to pull the cartridge off and re-fill it (repeatedly) and being cartridges are unobtanium - i was searching for a way to have the cartridge mechanically connected to the pen and fill with a pseudo twist or draw converter.

 

 

 

First I tried to make a bulb filler - which works - but only in one pen - the others bind at the sac over cartridge and will pull it off when the barrel is unscrewed in two pens

 

The other works in all three - that is a monteverde converter, that does not seat on the pen itself but has been shellac'd to a section of CF cartridge - this works in all three pens - however, the little nob had to be clipped off as it would bind to the

internal body and come off the pen when unscrewed.  It does not now.

 

Works so far all well and good and we shall see if it continues to - I may tray to used a #15 sac shellac'd into a section of cartridge to see if that works better.

 

If it continues to work well I *may* put a dab of shellac on the metal section that has a cut out that you can see the cartridge in, to hold it in place

 

Hope it continues to work out !

 

 

 

 

 

[OCArt]

 Nice solution @NickJC!

[txomsy]

I'm having similar problems with a Montblanc Slimline and a Faber Castell converter: it seals OK, but the rear part of the piston engages with the body and when unscrewing the body the converter comes off with it.

 

I was actually thinking of sanding off the knob a bit until it does no longer stick, but was fearful I might break it. Your experience is most inspiring.

 

Thanks.

[NickJC]

1 hour ago, OCArt said:

 Nice solution @NickJC!

 

Thank you !

 

Just for more data...the newer cartridges are thinner plastic and not concentric, or should i say evenly distirbuted plastic walls...

 

the vintage cartridges are more uniform in plastic distribution..hence same thickness walls all around. 

 

That will be a better solution to use a vintage cartridge... 

 

 

37 minutes ago, txomsy said:

I'm having similar problems with a Montblanc Slimline and a Faber Castell converter: it seals OK, but the rear part of the piston engages with the body and when unscrewing the body the converter comes off with it.

 

I was actually thinking of sanding off the knob a bit until it does no longer stick, but was fearful I might break it. Your experience is most inspiring.

 

Thanks.

 

The knob here got cutoff with a razor, it wasn't hard plastic...

 

Go for it !  Gl!

[NickJC]

So, took some new pics - the first one that follows is the comparison of an old NOS cartridge showing a cross sectional and the newer carts.

 

You can see with the new carts they weren't formed with any kind of uniformity in mind it seems, albeit for outside diameter to fit the tube.

 

You can also see the that old carts have a thicker wall - this is a benefit.

 

I fitted the pull converter to the NOS cart and it just feels more solid, is more uniformly centered and is 100% going to be a long term solution.

 

Also in lieu of shellac for the converter to cart adhesive, I may think about some other adhesive, cynoacrylate? Epoxy?  Dunno - not knowing what the

plastics are shellac might be the best solution as not to degrade the plastic over the long term

 

Additionally - I also trimmed the front end of the converter with a razor to remove the nipple portion to allow a more open ink flow (don't have a pic currently but will later)

This has dramatically allowed a smoother ink pull from the bottle and better fill all around.

 

The final question is - to keep the little ball from the cart and place in the converter or not.... 

 

Just more info to share for those looking to do this.

 

[Paul-in-SF]

I was able to find an original C/F converter a couple of years ago. It is a slim metal aerometric-style converter. The connection to the nipple is good, and it holds about 0.6 ml of ink. Just as a point of possible interest. 

[NickJC]

I looked at that route to just buy one...but when that sac fails and could be failing do to NOS...  it looks like a PITA to change it.

 

Given that, I personally think the above, for me, while non traditional is a cleaner solution.

 

Thanks !

[Paul-in-SF]

Good point, I hadn't thought about eventual wear of the sac, I don't use mine often enough to make it an issue. I think my observation was aimed mainly at offering an alternative to other C/F owners if they didn't want to make their own. 

 

I don't know what the sac is made of, which is pretty important information in any discussion about durability. If it is pli-glass like Parker 51's then I would say no worries. It might also be latex (thicker than normal, I hope) or silicone. 

[langere]

I purchased converters for my C/Fs from pentooling.com. They work!

 

Erick