SAILOR 1911 NIBS

[dave321]

are the nib and feed section friction fit in the section like in the Platinum 3776 ?

 

or are they a complete unit?

[JulieParadise]

Friction fit. 

 

Nibs and feeds (or, easier, the whole grip section incl. nib and feed and everything) are swappable between the smaller 1911s and Pro Gear Slim (Mini) models, the larger nibs and feeds of the 1911 also fit the Pro Gear models. 

 

The picture shows the elements a 1911s' grip section consists of (the model is a Sailor/Nagasawa Kobe ProSke --> "Profit [Standard/Slim] Skeleton = Demonstrator):

 

 

Besides nib and feed there is the outer grip (section, in this case it is clear), a black "collar" that houses nib+feed, the metal connector between the grip section and the barrel, which screws into the collar, and a slim trim ring (on the foto it still sits on the upper part of the connector, it is the ring above where you can see the black elastic ring.

[A Smug Dill]

I’m not sure whether the question is strictly about physical design and construction, or from the consumer’s and owner’s perspective with a view to changing the nib and/or feed from what was supplied as-is with the pen.

 

As @JulieParadise has so clearly shown in her photo above, there is a collar into which the nib and feed are friction-fit in a pen in the Sailor Profit (aka 1911) product line. You could say the collar, nib and feed form “a complete unit” which is not inalienable from part of the gripping section onto which the pen user holds when writing.

 

However, bear in mind 100% that you cannot just buy that “complete unit”, if sourcing additional (or replacement) standalone nib units for a given pen body is your goal; it only comes in an entire pen as a retail product. It is, possible, however to swap the nib units between two Sailor Profit pens of the same form factor, by disassembling the gripping sections (which may or may not require breaking factory-applied adhesive on the inner threads).

[dave321]

thank you both, you have answered my question.

it was to see how easy it would be to dis assemble the nib and feed for cleaning purposes, if required.

 

the cut out on the nib looks almost identical in shape to the nib on the Platinum 3776 14ct nib

[A Smug Dill]

10 hours ago, dave321 said:

it was to see how easy it would be to dis assemble the nib and feed for cleaning purposes, if required.

 

I cannot think of any ‘open’ nibs that are not friction-fit into the front end of the gripping section — with or without a collar (which may or may not be unscrewable) to hold the nib and feed together — and that cannot be pulled out. For example, JoWo #6 nibs can most certainly be pulled out of the typical interchangeable JoWo nib units, with or without removing the collar (or housing for the nib and feed) from the gripping section first, so that you don’t need to flush the nib and feed from the ‘nipple’ on the back of the unit to give them a thorough clean, if you really want to be brutal and bloody-minded about exposing the feed and underside of the nib to a brush, or drying the parts completely with a paper towel or some such instead of either accepting there will be some moisture left inside the nib unit after cleaning or wait for everything to air dry naturally in 24–48 hours.

[Karmachanic]

1 hour ago, dave321 said:

how easy it would be to dis assemble the nib and feed for cleaning purposes, if required.

 

Fortunately it's not required

[sirgilbert357]

6 hours ago, Karmachanic said:

 

Fortunately it's not required

 

Seriously. Pulling the nib and feed over and over is bound to loosen things up over time. To each their own, but if you want the pen to last and for the nib to remain snug, I'd refrain from pulling it out just to clean the pen.

[mtcn77]

1 hour ago, sirgilbert357 said:

 

Seriously. Pulling the nib and feed over and over is bound to loosen things up over time. To each their own, but if you want the pen to last and for the nib to remain snug, I'd refrain from pulling it out just to clean the pen.

I got a new nib just to enjoy the stock factory tune.

I might be wrong, but even carelessly scraping the nib on some surface by its reverse can change how it picks up a writing line. Tune is everything. I really want to play safe, but somehow find my way to scrape the nib on random wallpaint while capping.

If only I could, I would not touch the nib. Unfortunately, I'm not qualified enough to maintain that condition.

[sirgilbert357]

2 hours ago, mtcn77 said:

I got a new nib just to enjoy the stock factory tune.

I might be wrong, but even carelessly scraping the nib on some surface by its reverse can change how it picks up a writing line. Tune is everything. I really want to play safe, but somehow find my way to scrape the nib on random wallpaint while capping.

If only I could, I would not touch the nib. Unfortunately, I'm not qualified enough to maintain that condition.

 

I'm not following. You want to replace the nib because you scraped a wall with it while capping? Does it write drastically different? Getting a nibmeister to tune the nib back to perfection would likely be cheaper than buying a whole new pen just to have a stock nib...

[mtcn77]

7 minutes ago, sirgilbert357 said:

 

I'm not following. You want to replace the nib because you scraped a wall with it while capping? Does it write drastically different? Getting a nibmeister to tune the nib back to perfection would likely be cheaper than buying a whole new pen just to have a stock nib...

I bought a new Kaweco nib and somehow managed to scrape it on wallpaint(desk next to wall). It writes the same, but I don't know, maybe it does not. It is the third one - I thought this time I had it under control.

[Strega]

You might want to get a loupe someday.  You can check nibs over for misalignment, gap, and debris.  A lot of nib issues are easy to fix but being able to see the issue is pretty important.  Take it easy and go slow, especially at first.