What pen(s) are you using today?

[M.C.]

A Lamy Safari 1.5 I like this nib for writing checks and addressing envelopes 

[Mangrove Jack]

38 minutes ago, M.C. said:

A Lamy Safari 1.5 I like this nib for writing checks and addressing envelopes 

Same here. With Noodler's Bad Belted Kingfisher. 

[Helen350]

Lamy Aion - M. nib.  Ink:  Dryden Designs Sky Blue

[AmandaW]

Today's journal pen was a Noodler's Charlie inked with Lexington Grey.

 

[USG]

Trying to find an ink for the M1000:

The problem: dip testing didn't reveal the true line width so I  removed the nib, and added half an eyedropper of ink to the barrel for each ink, then bulb flush, dry and next ink

• Edelstein Sapphire <--started with
• 4001 Konigsblau vintage
• Diamine Sapphire
• Diamine China Blue
• 4001 Blue-Black vintage
• Robert Oster Ng Special
• Robert Oster Australis Oak
• Diamine Prussian Blue
• Monteverde Fire Opal
• J Herbin Bleue Nuit vintage
• J Herbin Violette Pensee vintage
• Diamine Mediteranean Blue
• Diamine Majestic Blue
• Edelstein Topaz <-- ended with, still not satisfied

[lionelc]

parker duofold senior lapis, diamine registrars

[Lithium466]

2 hours ago, USG said:

Trying to find an ink for the M1000:

• Edelstein Sapphire <--started with
• 4001 Konigsblau vintage
• Diamine Sapphire
• Diamine China Blue
• 4001 Blue-Black vintage
• Robert Oster Ng Special
• Robert Oster Australis Oak
• Diamine Prussian Blue
• Monteverde Fire Opal
• J Herbin Bleue Nuit vintage
• J Herbin Violette Pensee vintage
• Diamine Mediteranean Blue
• Diamine Majestic Blue
• Edelstein Topaz <-- ended with, still not satisfied

I would be curious to hear what ink you'll settle on. Are you looking for some ink qualities in particular, or just a great ink/pen match?

[Gloucesterman]

5 hours ago, USG said:

Trying to find an ink for the M1000:

The problem: dip testing didn't reveal the true line width so I  removed the nib, and added half an eyedropper of ink to the barrel for each ink, then bulb flush, dry and next ink

• Edelstein Sapphire <--started with
• 4001 Konigsblau vintage
• Diamine Sapphire
• Diamine China Blue
• 4001 Blue-Black vintage
• Robert Oster Ng Special
• Robert Oster Australis Oak
• Diamine Prussian Blue
• Monteverde Fire Opal
• J Herbin Bleue Nuit vintage
• J Herbin Violette Pensee vintage
• Diamine Mediteranean Blue
• Diamine Majestic Blue
• Edelstein Topaz <-- ended with, still not satisfied

                                                           

                                                               You are obviously a very patient and persistent person.

[inkstainedruth]

@USG -- What's the nib on your M1000?  Because Pelikan nibs tend to run wet in general (the 4001 inks tend to be on the dry side, so the wet nibs counteract that).  

When I got my first Pelikan (a 1990s era Brown Tortoise) I had originally planned to use it (at least to some extent) for drawing.  Only the first ink I put in it, Iroshizuku Yama-guri, was just too wet an ink for it, and the F nib wrote more like a cross between an M and a B.  But when I put a very dry ink in it -- Noodler's Walnut -- the pen was much better behaved and also coaxed better flow out of the ink.

And while I commend your diligence in experimentation, I also am wondering why nearly every ink you tried was a blue ink.

Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth

[USG]

9 hours ago, Lithium466 said:

I would be curious to hear what ink you'll settle on. Are you looking for some ink qualities in particular, or just a great ink/pen match?

 

I was looking for an ink that looked good without pouring out of the pen, but secondarily I was trying to find an ink that was compatible with my latest favorite paper, Cosmo Snow.  The problem I encountered with the Cosmo Snow paper was a very exaggerated spreading as it dried.  Except for Fire Opal, all the inks I tried were "dry" inks (according to Vanness) but they didn't perform significantly better than Fire Opal which was a regular flow ink.

 

6 hours ago, Gloucesterman said:

                                                           

                                                               You are obviously a very patient and persistent person.

 

LOL it's a hobby.  All that effort and I made no progress. 🤪

 

2 hours ago, inkstainedruth said:

@USG -- What's the nib on your M1000?  Because Pelikan nibs tend to run wet in general (the 4001 inks tend to be on the dry side, so the wet nibs counteract that).  

When I got my first Pelikan (a 1990s era Brown Tortoise) I had originally planned to use it (at least to some extent) for drawing.  Only the first ink I put in it, Iroshizuku Yama-guri, was just too wet an ink for it, and the F nib wrote more like a cross between an M and a B.  But when I put a very dry ink in it -- Noodler's Walnut -- the pen was much better behaved and also coaxed better flow out of the ink.

And while I commend your diligence in experimentation, I also am wondering why nearly every ink you tried was a blue ink.

Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth

 

Hi ISR

 

Since my ill fated Fake Shading thread I've become interested in shading, sheening and shimmering (look what this hobby does to you 😄).  I've been able to get some pretty good results with Cosmo Snow paper.  Some Inks that look plain on Tomoe, Clairefontaine, Rhodia, etc, explode into all kinds of interesting shading, sheening,and haloing on Cosmo Snow paper.  I was surprise to discover this (LatetothepartyMe).  So that's my main interest in Cosmo Snow paper, besides its soft ride and great colors. It also has another characteristic that I value and that is a slight increase in the individual line width.  I find that advantageous because nibs that are too fine to show any significant shading (etc.) on other paper can come into their own on Cosmo Snow and aside from the M1000, it hasn't been a detriment with any other pens.

 

I bought all the Pelikan ink colors a long time ago along with all the Waterman, Sheaffer and a bunch of others. Some have been rehydrated and others didn't evaporate that much over the years.  The blue 4001 in the pic above is not that old (relatively) and is 3/4 full. Of course I tried that too.

 

I've had the M1000 for a long time and it's been a gusher the entire time.  I bought it with a fine nib but the ink just poured out of the pen.  On Clairefontaine and Rhodia it could write a fine(ish) line with some inks but the ink looked like something that was squeezed out of a toothpaste tube (3 dimensions).  With most inks it wrote a medium line, and took forever to dry. Depending on the ink, it might spread, feather, bleed or not.  As a consequence, it sat unused for years.  Around the time of COVID, I bought another fine nib figuring that a another nib might be different.  DopeyMe, it was exactly the same.

 

Why Blue ink?  I have a lot of blue inks and I picked what I thought were the driest, and some other colors that were also dry inks (except Fire Opal).  What colors would you suggest? 

[Lithium466]

I would suggest an iron gall ink like the Büroservice Bergmann, or maybe Lamy blue (which works for me better than the Pelikan equivalent). I can probably send you a sample of the first one if you're not in a hurry.

[ParramattaPaul]

I used the Gravitas entry since the Onotos needed cleaning.

 

[USG]

2 hours ago, Lithium466 said:

I would suggest an iron gall ink like the Büroservice Bergmann, or maybe Lamy blue (which works for me better than the Pelikan equivalent). I can probably send you a sample of the first one if you're not in a hurry.

 I have this.  Why would it work better than 4001?

[PAKMAN]

Visconti Voyager 30

[langere]

I am presently using the Cross 175th Anniversary pen (F nib) with Narwhal Carmel Sea Blue.  I am impressed.  The nib is smooth and I am able to write with precision.  The body itself appears to be transparent, but is not.  It is an interesting aesthetic.  The six gold rings around the body do not detract from the transparent material.  The pen is a bit slim, but it works for me - I have pretty small hands for a man.  The only thing that makes it less than perfect is the ink - the blue is relatively light and is not as saturated as I would like.  But it does flow well and does not feather.

 

Erick

[Lithium466]

8 hours ago, USG said:

 I have this.  Why would it work better than 4001?

 

Blue, not blue black, unless maybe your blue black is still or the iron gall version.

 

No reason it would work better, just that it did for me in a few pens that were a bit too gushing for my taste. YMMV.

 

[Tashi_Tsering]

Today -- vintage Eclipse Empire from 1920th

[ParramattaPaul]

5 hours ago, Tashi_Tsering said:

Today -- vintage Eclipse Empire from 1920th

 

 

I hope I am not the only one who sees the irony of using a 1920s vintage fountain pen to check, edit, and notate computer printouts.

[Tashi_Tsering]

24 minutes ago, ParramattaPaul said:

to check, edit, and notate computer printouts.

Nope. In this case for signature only. 

[Gloucesterman]

2 hours ago, Tashi_Tsering said:

Nope. In this case for signature only. 

And your point is...?

Go ahead. I dare you... Post it!

Don't be oblique. Or do you think I am too obtuse to understand?

Either way, I am fine with it but I can be flexible.