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World Second 3D printed nib(LMAO)


VonPG

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Unluckily, the world 1st 3d printed nib was made by Pjotr Dumat. So, I should be the second one(lmao).

 

Material is Co-Mo-Ti Alloy.

In DLMS 3D printer EOSINT M 280

At first, it looked very Rough.

So I decided to polish them.

nib1.jpg.cf67d8627b9c4144df9b24807ab25a11.jpg

 

After 20 hours Polishment in 14 days:

nib2.jpg.b81aad0adb170f22c58a989bad58f701.jpg

 

Next time if I have free time I will welding them with Iridium point.

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neat...

how do they write? 

If you have the ability to weld iridium points on... This could be a GREAT way to get a replacement nib if you had an old waterman, or parker that needed a nib, but a nib would cost more than the pen is worth... you could conceivably get someone who can do this to print you a copy of one... Of course, if it requires 20hrs of polishing... it would likely be cheaper to just buy an old nib... But, most technologies get better and faster and cheaper over time... (regular 3D printing has shown this) so maybe in 5 - 10 years this actually WILL be a viable business! 

 

Just give me the Parker 51s and nobody needs to get hurt.

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10 minutes ago, IThinkIHaveAProblem said:

neat...

how do they write? 

If you have the ability to weld iridium points on... This could be a GREAT way to get a replacement nib if you had an old waterman, or parker that needed a nib, but a nib would cost more than the pen is worth... you could conceivably get someone who can do this to print you a copy of one... Of course, if it requires 20hrs of polishing... it would likely be cheaper to just buy an old nib... But, most technologies get better and faster and cheaper over time... (regular 3D printing has shown this) so maybe in 5 - 10 years this actually WILL be a viable business! 

 

Due to the material properites, it is super hard and can directly write as a normal steel nib. It feels even harder than rollerball nib. No flexible touch so it is suitable for shorthand.

Thanks for your kind suggestion!

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11 minutes ago, VonPG said:

Due to the material properites, it is super hard and can directly write as a normal steel nib. It feels even harder than rollerball nib. No flexible touch so it is suitable for shorthand.

Thanks for your kind suggestion!

That description automatically brought one thought to my mind as i read it:

"So... it's like printing your own TWSBI nib?..." 

 

Now I'm imagining being able to bring life back to old vacumatics with 3d printed nibs that look exactly like the real deal but are super stiff. Not everyone's cup of tea obviously, but still better than letting the pen die completely...

 

Also, now that i think of it, the very stiff nibs are likely better suited to people who are new to fountain pens and have only ever used ballpoints, less likely for them to damage it as they learn to have a softer touch...

 

I look forward to some writing samples! (please!)

Just give me the Parker 51s and nobody needs to get hurt.

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I think this is brilliant! Though given the material, I can't see any benefit to welded tipping - perhaps a faux 'blob' included in the printed design?

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1 hour ago, IThinkIHaveAProblem said:

That description automatically brought one thought to my mind as i read it:

"So... it's like printing your own TWSBI nib?..." 

 

Now I'm imagining being able to bring life back to old vacumatics with 3d printed nibs that look exactly like the real deal but are super stiff. Not everyone's cup of tea obviously, but still better than letting the pen die completely...

 

Also, now that i think of it, the very stiff nibs are likely better suited to people who are new to fountain pens and have only ever used ballpoints, less likely for them to damage it as they learn to have a softer touch...

 

I look forward to some writing samples! (please!)

3.thumb.jpg.e273c1139b1d0107139a81c970568748.jpg

Here it is(The paper quality is not good)

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14 minutes ago, mizgeorge said:

I think this is brilliant! Though given the material, I can't see any benefit to welded tipping - perhaps a faux 'blob' included in the printed design?

Not blob. After all Eosint M 280 is an old printer. with many disvantages in small part printing. It could be better if we use new printer so you won't see so many rough point on its surface-the price will be much higher.

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5 minutes ago, VonPG said:

 

Here it is(The paper quality is not good)

Neat.

 

Thank you :)

 

 

Just give me the Parker 51s and nobody needs to get hurt.

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Very cool.  Although I had to go online and look at a list of elements of the periodic table to know what the materials were in your alloy.

A few years ago, when my husband and I bought a new minivan, I had to break down and use the proffered BP to sign the loan paperwork, because it was one of those multi-layer carbonless forms.  A super stiff nib like a manifold would have been ideal (I was using one of the flex-nib Noodler's Konrads, with Noodler's Kung Te Cheng in it, for the rest of the paperwork).

Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth

"It's very nice, but frankly, when I signed that list for a P-51, what I had in mind was a fountain pen."

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Wondering about the slit. I guess you can get super small tolerances on some of the new printers, but if I were using an old printer where the slit may get sloppy, I might think about leaving the slit off, and adding it later. If you don't have a super-sharp, highly-tuned drop press, one old technique which might work with really stiff and brittle material is they would take a very sharp chisel and cut part way through from the top, and part way through from the bottom, then take a pair of pliers and "crack" the slit open. They would do this with a steel nib that had been hardened, before tempering, when it was very brittle. 

 

For a sharp chisel, you could use an Exacto blade. 

 

Has anyone tried printing a plastic nib? Might get some flexibility that way, depending on the material. 

 

 

 

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13 minutes ago, AAAndrew said:

Wondering about the slit. I guess you can get super small tolerances on some of the new printers, but if I were using an old printer where the slit may get sloppy, I might think about leaving the slit off, and adding it later. If you don't have a super-sharp, highly-tuned drop press, one old technique which might work with really stiff and brittle material is they would take a very sharp chisel and cut part way through from the top, and part way through from the bottom, then take a pair of pliers and "crack" the slit open. They would do this with a steel nib that had been hardened, before tempering, when it was very brittle. 

 

For a sharp chisel, you could use an Exacto blade. 

 

Has anyone tried printing a plastic nib? Might get some flexibility that way, depending on the material. 

 

 

Thanks for your kind suggestion.

So far plastic nib is not good for fountain pen, because the metal point that can welding with plastic are all low strength and low hardness alloy. It is not wear-resistance.

However, plastic nib is okay in Dip pen because It doesn’t matter if the dip pen nib does not have iridium point . PEEK/PBI /Acrylic/ULTEM nib in dip pen is possible. 

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Color me impressed.

"There is nothing new in the world except the history you do not know." - Harry S Truman

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AFAIK, this material is itself pretty tough , so tipping might be optional. Considering the work put into the digital model it might be better to build one ( model ) with inbuild slits like dip pen nibs , which could by physical means provide that bit of flex , the tip might be good if modeled to something other than a point , a round off ( cursive ) Stub, Architect. or even a Krugal ball end could al be incorporated, Music nib style twin slit or even 3 or 4 slit for wide wide cursive stub, too . It might be even more interesting to model one that's not standard nib sized.

 

 

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5 hours ago, Mech-for-i said:

AFAIK, this material is itself pretty tough , so tipping might be optional. Considering the work put into the digital model it might be better to build one ( model ) with inbuild slits like dip pen nibs , which could by physical means provide that bit of flex , the tip might be good if modeled to something other than a point , a round off ( cursive ) Stub, Architect. or even a Krugal ball end could al be incorporated, Music nib style twin slit or even 3 or 4 slit for wide wide cursive stub, too . It might be even more interesting to model one that's not standard nib sized.

 

 

Thanks for your suggestion. I will try it when I have free time.

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since it is 3d printed you can use any futuristic shape you want, something like the lamborghini sesto senso design style

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