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LizEF

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And here's another question...  Can I take a color from the right-middle of the "chroma" scale (or the "intensity" scale) in below image, and use it as the starting point (left-most color) of the "saturation" scale?  Essentially, it's my starting point, and then by adding white, I desaturate?  And if so, how does "saturation" have any meaning?  And if not, would we not need some chart that says "here are all the 'fully saturated' colors" - if your ink matches one, it's saturated, otherwise you'll need to look for it on one of the below scales to see where it falls...?

Chroma-of-Red-with-Black-White-Gray.jpg

In case you haven't guessed, I'm trying to figure out how, as an ink reviewer, I would look at an ink (or my swatch thereof, or my writing sample) and say "this has high (or medium, or low) saturation" - especially when the color is low chroma, or low intensity (per above scales).

 

Wheee!  (Anyone else have a headache?) :D

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Liz, I'm going to start by trying to define "saturation" as I usually tend to think of it regarding ink, hoping this will help clarify my answers.  "Think" is probably a very generous way to describe the very vague motions of my mind in this direction, btw.

 

I think of high saturation as indicating an ink that will leave a richer, darker, stronger, or more solid line on the paper than one that has little saturation.  I think I have assumed that this high saturation is achieved by having a higher proportion of coloring agent to water--which I guess is what you're meaning by dye load?  (Sorry, no time to carefully review the foregoing discussion on this thread, and both chemistry and color theory are opaque to me. 😉)

 

I have also over the years acquired an association (rightly or wrongly) of "highly saturated inks" with "those inks that can eat sacs and damage fancy filling systems".

 

So...

  On 4/19/2021 at 6:11 PM, LizEF said:

1) What do you do with the information?  (If all you do is say, "Huh, that's interesting.", please say so - I'm not trying to judge the consumer, I'm trying to understand the term and how people use it.)

 

2) If all you knew about an ink was its color saturation, or its dye load, would you be able to make a decision (even if not a final decision) based on that knowledge?  E.g. would you be able to say, "I won't be interested in this ink, no sense learning more."  or "This ink may be just what I'm looking for, let's continue."?  I'm trying to figure out if this attribute simply satisfies curiosity, or if someone out there has a functional use for it.

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My answers to the first two questions are going to depend a little on why a particular ink interests me.  If I'm looking for an ink to go into an expensive piston filler, then the words "highly saturated" may send me looking elsewhere immediately.  Since I generally use any ink in various pens, that's not going to happen often, though. More likely is just that I'll either say "Huh, that's interesting", or possibly make a mental note that I may not want to use this particular ink in my only Pelikan.

 

  On 4/19/2021 at 6:11 PM, LizEF said:

3) If your answer to #2 is that you have a functional use for the information, is an evaluation of saturation by the reviewer necessary for you to accomplish your ends, or can you accomplish the same ends by considering other attributes of the ink (e.g. pictures of the ink - alone and in comparison with other inks, demonstration of shading, etc.)?

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Convenient, yes.  Necessary, no.

 

Thanks for your work on this!

 

"To read without also writing is to sleep." - St. Jerome

 

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  On 4/19/2021 at 9:34 PM, knarflj said:

Thanks for your work on this!

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Gladly!  Thanks for your feedback.

 

  On 4/19/2021 at 9:34 PM, knarflj said:

I think of high saturation as indicating an ink that will leave a richer, darker, stronger, or more solid line on the paper than one that has little saturation.  I think I have assumed that this high saturation is achieved by having a higher proportion of coloring agent to water--which I guess is what you're meaning by dye load?

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Yes, you interpreted "dye load" correctly.

 

Your interpretation of saturation sounds a lot like opacity and non-shading.  And your adjectives are, for me, difficult (some more, some less) to solidify into instructions: "richer, darker, stronger, or more solid".  How do I instruct someone on what "richer" or "stronger" is?  Lots of people may think they know, but can they explain it to others?  Do they agree?  I personally am not so sure I know.  "Darker" - OK, that one's pretty easy - low on the "intensity" scale posted earlier.  "more solid" - is this "solid" as in "non-shading" or "solid" as in a boulder - that is, is it a figurative description of the ink, or a literal description of its appearance on the page (a solid color, not a graduated, splotchy, swirly, etc. color)?  (I'm going to assume it's not "my ink has frozen".)

 

One of the review forms I reviewed earlier today left out "saturation" and some other terms, but added the term "depth" with 1 being "low" and 5 being "high".  Again, I have no idea what the maker of the form intended.  One person (can't remember if it was here or reddit) explained to me what they mean by depth, but I'm not sure any 12 people would agree with each other on whether any given ink has "depth" (unless, of course, we were talking about how much of it is left in the bottle...).

 

Along this same line of thinking, I see a lot of people saying they want a recommendation for a "dark blue" and getting answers like "Baystate Blue" - in my world, Baystate Blue is a middle blue, not light, not dark.  Waterman Inspired Blue is a light blue.  Herbin Bleu des Profondeurs is a dark blue.  So even "darker" may be so widely interpreted as to be useless. :)

 

Obviously, whatever we come up with is going to have to include advice to the reviewer to qualify / explain their use of terminology to increase the chance that the consumer will understand what the reviewer intended to communicate.

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  On 4/19/2021 at 10:08 PM, LizEF said:

Your interpretation of saturation sounds a lot like opacity and non-shading.  And your adjectives are, for me, difficult (some more, some less) to solidify into instructions: "richer, darker, stronger, or more solid".  How do I instruct someone on what "richer" or "stronger" is? 

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Yes, I'm sorry about the difficulty.  I'm afraid that because I couldn't come up with one adjective to say exactly what I meant, I piled up a whole bunch of maybe-not-too-far-off-the-mark adjectives, hoping that together they'd give the general idea!  "Opaque" is a much clearer word (in this context, at least) than any of mine.  

 

Before this thread, it had never occurred to me that opacity and shading were related, but it makes sense that they would be.

"To read without also writing is to sleep." - St. Jerome

 

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  On 4/19/2021 at 8:20 PM, LizEF said:

Wheee!  (Anyone else have a headache?) :D

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Getting there. 😄

 

  On 4/19/2021 at 8:20 PM, LizEF said:

In case you haven't guessed, I'm trying to figure out how, as an ink reviewer, I would look at an ink (or my swatch thereof, or my writing sample) and say "this has high (or medium, or low) saturation" - especially when the color is low chroma, or low intensity (per above scales).

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I have no idea.  But I just hit the search engine to try to understand a little better the difference between "chroma" and "intensity": I can see in the scales you posted that there is some difference, but I couldn't articulate what it was.  Trouble is, hardly any two websites I found on a quick search defined any of those three terms in quite the same way.  So I think if we use any of them, it's going to help if the user clearly defines them for the reader.

 

Here are a few examples of what I ran into:
 

Color consists of three main integral parts:

hue

value

saturation (also called “chroma”)

http://learn.leighcotnoir.com/artspeak/elements-color/hue-value-saturation/

Colors have several properties to explore: hue, value, intensity, and temperature.

Intensity (also referred to as saturation or chroma) refers to the degree of purity of a color.

https://charlenecollinsfreeman.com/blog-montauk/2018/12/12/understanding-color-intensity

 

To understand color, an artist must also need to understand its three attributes:
1. Hue
2. Value
3. Chroma
In non-art terms, these three attributes are known as:
1. Color
2. Darkness/lightness
3. Intensity or saturation

https://noapsblog.com/2015/03/15/hue-values-and-chroma-in-art-terms/

 

Those were from sites I thought I could understand--or might have been able to understand if they hadn't seemed to contradict each other. :wallbash:

"To read without also writing is to sleep." - St. Jerome

 

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  On 4/19/2021 at 8:05 PM, LizEF said:

I judge opaqueness literally - blocking light.  If a fountain pen ink blocked light, then you could write with it on a black piece of paper, and you would see the ink, not the paper - light would reflect off the ink, not go through to the paper.

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I'm completely with you on the meaning of opacity, when it comes to applying ink or any other liquid substance on paper (or some other surface, irrespective of whether the substrate is absorbent/porous). Opacity is a physical quality that is not about the difference in colour (intensity) between ink marks and the page area around them; matt white paint on white paper can be entirely opaque without standing out visually. I'd think that an opaque ink would generally be bad news for feeds and ink windows; and clinging to and building up on the reservoir's walls and/or around the rim of the plug would most likely stop the filling mechanism in piston-filled and vacuum-filled pens as well as converters with (rotary-driven or push-pull) pistons.

 

  On 4/19/2021 at 11:30 PM, knarflj said:

“To understand color, an artist must…”

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Therein lies part of the issue with users who primarily write (as opposed to paint) with fountain pens and inks. Is grey a colour? Is blue-black a colour? How does one say, in terms of the hue, value, chroma, intensity, temperature, etc., that he/she is after a grey ink that stands out starkly against the surface of off-white paper?

I endeavour to be frank and truthful in what I write, show or otherwise present, when I relate my first-hand experiences that are not independently verifiable; and link to third-party content where I can, when I make a claim or refute a statement of fact in a thread. If there is something you can verify for yourself, I entreat you to do so, and judge for yourself what is right, correct, and valid. I may be wrong, and my position or say-so is no more authoritative and carries no more weight than anyone else's here.

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  On 4/19/2021 at 11:12 PM, knarflj said:

Yes, I'm sorry about the difficulty.

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No need to be sorry. :)  I think this demonstrates the very subjective nature of ink reviews.  Whether we can help increase / improve against that, who knows.  But it's interesting exploring the question.

 

  On 4/19/2021 at 11:30 PM, knarflj said:

I just hit the search engine to try to understand a little better the difference between "chroma" and "intensity":....  Trouble is, hardly any two websites I found on a quick search defined any of those three terms in quite the same way.

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Yes!  I'm running into the same trouble.  And that trouble convinces me that FP-users and potential ink reviewers will most likely have the same trouble.

 

  On 4/19/2021 at 11:30 PM, knarflj said:

Those were from sites I thought I could understand--or might have been able to understand if they hadn't seemed to contradict each other. :wallbash:

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Exactly! :D

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  On 4/19/2021 at 8:05 PM, LizEF said:

Forgot to comment on this.  Yes, I think this may well be the case for some.  And I've had (or tried to have) some discussions on opaqueness in FP-inks.  In my experience thus far, none are opaque, though De Atramentis Document White comes close.  I judge opaqueness literally - blocking light.  If a fountain pen ink blocked light, then you could write with it on a black piece of paper, and you would see the ink, not the paper - light would reflect off the ink, not go through to the paper.  But with above exception (and to a lesser degree, DAD Yellow), all FP ink disappears on black paper, meaning it's transparent.

 

But some have used this term to mean "non-shading" - an ink which yields a solid-single-color line.  (See previous comments about how I used to interpret this as "fully saturated" but am no longer confident in that interpretation.)

 

Others have argued that a dark ink that you can't see white paper through is "opaque".  Perhaps it is, to a large degree.  Haven't given it enough thought.  But it's worth remembering that there may be some who interpret "saturated" as either "non-shading" or as "opaque".

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DeA Document White is a highly opaque pigment-based ink.  And so it works on dark paper. For that matter, high concentration shimmer inks can work too, if you are willing to accept seeing only the shimmer-y bits once the ink has dried.
 

 

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  On 4/19/2021 at 11:36 PM, A Smug Dill said:

I'm completely with you on the meaning of opacity, when it comes to applying ink or any other liquid substance on paper (or some other surface, irrespective of whether the substrate is absorbent/porous). Opacity is a physical quality that is not about the difference in colour (intensity) between ink marks and the page area around them; matt white paint on white paper can be entirely opaque without standing out visually. I'd think that an opaque ink would generally be bad news for feeds and ink windows; and clinging to and building up on the reservoir's walls and/or around the rim of the plug would most likely stop the filling mechanism in piston-filled and vacuum-filled pens as well as converters with (rotary-driven or push-pull) pistons.

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:thumbup:  When I see the Kala Nostalgia Neon inks (e.g. see bottles here at Shigure Inks), they look like chalk to me - ridiculously opaque in the bottle and in pictures I've see of them in demonstrator pens.  I kinda cringe at the thought of sticking one in my Eco, for example.  The swatches, however, look less opaque, and not quite so worrisome - and suggest that however opaque an ink may seem en masse (as it were), once you apply it to the page, it's not - and as you say (or imply), there's a really good reason for that, namely, the functioning of the pen.

 

  On 4/19/2021 at 11:36 PM, A Smug Dill said:

Therein lies part of the issue with users who primarily write (as opposed to paint) with fountain pens and inks. Is grey a colour? Is blue-black a colour? How does one say, in terms of the hue, value, chroma, intensity, temperature, etc., that he/she is after a grey ink that stands out starkly against the surface of off-white paper?

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And asking ink reviewers to become color experts before doing a review is just as absurd as expecting consistent application of undefined terms like "saturation", "depth", "wetness", and "lubrication".

 

As for the grey, I expect most folks would say they're looking for a medium grey, dark enough to be easily read, that stands out against the page without seeming to be black. :)   And no one would bother mentioning all those "artsy-fartsy" terms. :D

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  On 4/20/2021 at 12:08 AM, I-am-not-really-here said:

DeA Document White is a highly opaque pigment-based ink.  And so it works on dark paper. For that matter, high concentration shimmer inks can work too, if you are willing to accept seeing only the shimmer-y bits once the ink has dried.

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IMO, "opaque" is an on-off thing - either something is opaque or it's not (the dictionary may disagree with me; I haven't gone to look yet), so I would say that DAD White is "nearly opaque".  And the glitter particles themselves are, I'm pretty sure, opaque.

 

Translucence and transparency can, I think, come in degrees, however.  I think I'll go visit Mr. Dictionary now and see whether he agrees with me...

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  On 4/20/2021 at 12:15 AM, LizEF said:

I think I'll go visit Mr. Dictionary now and see whether he agrees with me...

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My reading of the dictionary is that "opaque" is an on/off or yes/no thing, but nothing in the definitions prevents describing translucence or transparency in degrees.  Thus, something could go from opaque, through varying degrees of translucence into varying degrees of transparency until said thing is entirely transparent (aka "clear").

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  On 4/20/2021 at 12:18 AM, LizEF said:

My reading of the dictionary is that "opaque" is an on/off or yes/no thing, but nothing in the definitions prevents describing translucence or transparency in degrees.  Thus, something could go from opaque, through varying degrees of translucence into varying degrees of transparency until said thing is entirely transparent (aka "clear").

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Yes, I think it is a sliding scale like the ones you posted of Chroma, etc.  Opaque on the far left, Transparent on the far right.  

 

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I think it may be useful to repeat my point in starting this thread: How do we remove the ambiguity for potential reviewers so that they're not intimidated / discouraged by not knowing how to provide what is asked for on the forms and in the pinned threads. (My own reaction reading those things just now is completely different from what it was long ago when I first considered doing ink reviews - long before ever posting any topics to discuss reviews.  I'm trying to create something that will help those who might react the way my former self reacted.)

 

And here's a summary of my thoughts thus far on the three terms we started with:

 

Flow (wetness): This describes the rate (speed) at which ink flows (from the pen).  It is recommended that the reviewer watch (multiple times, if necessary) and understand the basic concepts behind this video: "How I Test Ink Viscosity" by An Ink Guy on YouTube.  Even if you don't understand the details of the statistics involved, and even if you don't intend to replicate the experiment, understanding the general concepts will help.  (Something I think isn't explained as clearly as it could have been on the video: inks to the left of the curve are wetter than inks to the right of the curve.  The horizontal axis is the speed at which the ink traveled from point A to point B on a slope.  The left is fewer seconds, the right is more seconds.  Thus, left is faster or "wetter", and right is slower or "drier".)

 

Because it would be expensive to replicate these tests, and difficult for most of us to evaluate consistently, even when using the same pen for different inks, it is perfectly valid to consult other reviews, and above YouTube channel, after forming one's own opinion.  (Better to do it after so that you don't precondition yourself to a particular conclusion.)

 

For us mortals, there is no standardized measure for "flow" (you cannot determine that Ink X has a flow rate of r).  Rather, flow is expressed as a comparison to other inks (e.g. "this ink is wetter than that ink", or "this ink is drier than the overall average of all the inks I've tested").

 

Assuming one is not going to perform controlled tests like those from above YouTube channel, there are several things to consider to minimize subjectivity:

  • One must be aware of the wetness of one's pen (as one pen may allow any ink to flow more quickly than another pen).
  • Paying careful attention to how different inks behave in the same pen (which requires both observation and documentation for later comparison), will increase one's ability to evaluate this attribute.  Using different pens will make it almost impossible, especially before one has lots of experience, to know whether wetness is a function of the pen or the ink, and how the wetness from one pen-ink combo compares to the wetness of another pen-ink combo.
  • Observations and conclusions will likely be easier using non-absorbent paper as an absorbent paper may soak the ink in so quickly that it's hard to see how much ink is flowing from the pen, versus being wicked down into the paper.  Non-absorbent paper, on the other hand, will let you watch the line of ink as it flows from the pen and note how much ink is flowing out - is it a thin, flat line, or a 3-dimensional bead, or a wide, quickly-spreading line, or something in between?
  • An ink that spreads may be fast-flowing (wetter) even though you don't see a 3-dimensional bead - because the ink spreads out rather than piles up - and even though it may seem to dry quickly.
  • Slow dry time is not necessarily an indication that an ink is wet.  An ink can flow quickly from the pen, and also dry quickly.  An ink can flow slowly from the pen, but take a long time to dry.  Knowing the dry time of the ink allows one to "adjust" their impression of the ink flow.
  • The ability to keep up with flexing may or may not be an indicator of wetness.  Flexing requires an ink that retains surface tension across the gap in the tines and despite the nib lifting from the feed.  An ink can be wet, but with low surface tension (not dealing well with flexing).  An ink can be dry, but have high surface tension - handles a wide gap, but not quickly.

 

Lubrication: This is an evaluation of how well the ink cushions between nib and paper.  If it cushions well, the experience is smoother.  If it cushions poorly, the experience is rougher.  As with flow, this is a comparative evaluation - an ink lubricates better or worse than other inks (or as compared to all the inks you have records for / experience with).  Also, using a single pen with multiple inks will help you make a more accurate comparison (otherwise, the tuning, size, and wetness of the different nibs will skew your observations).  Further, using the same paper from ink to ink is important as papers differ in smoothness (or tooth) and therefore using different papers would skew your results.  Your grip on the pen (or writing pressure) will also impact the overall feel of the writing, so you should try to be as consistent as possible here.

 

Because this evaluation is entirely subjective and will be based on your personal tactile experience, you should keep detailed notes.  Spending some time up front trying to determine how you will describe the experience will pay benefits later.

 

Please note that nothing in the above is meant to suggest that you only use one pen in your reviews.  There's no reason not to use multiple pens.  But unless you use at least one pen across all inks, your observations will not be consistent.

 

Saturation: This may describe the concentration of dye in the ink, or the color saturation.  There is no practical, inexpensive way I can determine to measure the concentration of dye in the ink.  Color saturation is a concept which must be studied to be thoroughly understood and consistently applied from review to review.  Rather than trying to replicate the definitions here (which would require me to copy from others), it is recommended the reviewer do an internet search for the phrase "color saturation" and study to the extent they wish.

 

It is my opinion that there is little to no practical use for evaluating an ink's saturation (regardless of how the term is defined).  Any practical needs can be met by one or more other attributes, such as pictures of the ink, comparisons with other inks, and evaluation of shading.

 

If you intend to evaluate saturation in your review(s), please explain (either in the review or in a profile or some other place to which your review can link) your definition of saturation, your method of evaluation, and your rating system.

 

Summary

OK, that's kinda where I'm at now.  I'm sure those can be added to, deleted from, clarified, and have examples provided, but I wanted to get that much down while it was in my head.  The rest can wait.

 

 

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  On 4/20/2021 at 3:52 AM, LizEF said:

How do we remove the ambiguity for potential reviewers so that they're not intimidated / discouraged by not knowing how to provide what is asked for on the forms and in the pinned threads. (My own reaction reading those things just now is completely different from what it was long ago when I first considered doing ink reviews - long before ever posting any topics to discuss reviews.  I'm trying to create something that will help those who might react the way my former self reacted.)

 

And here's a summary of my thoughts thus far on the three terms we started with:

...‹snip›…

I wanted to get that much down while it was in my head.

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Thank you so very much for the certainly non-trivial endeavour of putting this together! 🙏🏼

I endeavour to be frank and truthful in what I write, show or otherwise present, when I relate my first-hand experiences that are not independently verifiable; and link to third-party content where I can, when I make a claim or refute a statement of fact in a thread. If there is something you can verify for yourself, I entreat you to do so, and judge for yourself what is right, correct, and valid. I may be wrong, and my position or say-so is no more authoritative and carries no more weight than anyone else's here.

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  On 4/20/2021 at 4:18 AM, A Smug Dill said:

 

Thank you so very much for the certainly non-trivial endeavour of putting this together! 🙏🏼

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:) You're welcome!  I'm learning as I go, which I appreciate.  Enjoying seeing other people destroy my previously confident assumptions. :lol:  And hoping we can all get to a better place.  If this enables future reviewers, I'll be happy (well, I'll be happy just to have produced something that I feel like is valuable, but even more happy if it helps some potential reviewers become actual reviewers).  After all, we are a bunch of enablers! :lticaptd:

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  On 4/20/2021 at 4:18 AM, A Smug Dill said:

 

Thank you so very much for the certainly non-trivial endeavour of putting this together! 🙏🏼

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Yes, thank you indeed!

"To read without also writing is to sleep." - St. Jerome

 

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A question over on Reddit suggests a way to test saturation, though it would (could) be tedious, IMO, and would "consume" the original ink:  Add water and see how much you could add before the color changes.  Of course, this would partly depend on one's ability to detect subtle color changes.  However, once you'd done enough inks, you could have an average to work with...

 

I expect you could attempt to measure in one of two ways: 1) percentage of water you can add before the color changes at all; or 2) the "amount" of color change that happens when diluting by a specified percentage (this would require you to have a way to measure the "value" of the pre- and post-dilution ink color (on paper)).

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  On 4/21/2021 at 4:22 AM, LizEF said:

A question over on Reddit suggests a way to test saturation, though it would (could) be tedious, IMO, and would "consume" the original ink:  Add water and see how much you could add before the color changes.

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One way that came to mind (a couple of weeks) earlier is to deposit a strictly controlled volume of ink onto a strip of filter paper, and perform chromatography on it to get a sense of just how much dye there is in the ink — relative again to other inks subjected to the same test/treatment, of course.

 

Chromatogram of Les Couleurs du Comte Bleu Cuivré ink on filter paper strip

 

Controlling the volume of ink is what would be difficult, especially when we only want a tiny volume. Touching the nib of a filled pen to the paper until it puts down a 2mm-diameter dot, as I did for the chromatogram shown above, is not a good method because of all the variables around ‘wetness’ i.e. ink flow, etc.

I endeavour to be frank and truthful in what I write, show or otherwise present, when I relate my first-hand experiences that are not independently verifiable; and link to third-party content where I can, when I make a claim or refute a statement of fact in a thread. If there is something you can verify for yourself, I entreat you to do so, and judge for yourself what is right, correct, and valid. I may be wrong, and my position or say-so is no more authoritative and carries no more weight than anyone else's here.

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  On 4/21/2021 at 5:07 AM, A Smug Dill said:

 

One way that came to mind (a couple of weeks) earlier is to deposit a strictly controlled volume of ink onto a strip of filter paper, and perform chromatography on it to get a sense of just how much dye there is in the ink — relative again to other inks subjected to the same test/treatment, of course.

 

Chromatogram of Les Couleurs du Comte Bleu Cuivré ink on filter paper strip

 

Controlling the volume of ink is what would be difficult, especially when we only want a tiny volume. Touching the nib of a filled pen to the paper until it puts down a 2mm-diameter dot, as I did for the chromatogram shown above, is not a good method because of all the variables around ‘wetness’ i.e. ink flow, etc.

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Hmm.  But how do you measure the result?

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      Oh well. In case of failure you can always wring the paper to have a nice -albeit somewhat stale- cup of coffee back.
    • T.D. Rabbit 2 Mar 10:20
      @Astronymus I could use cornstarch... Or i could distill it and make it very concentrated.
    • T.D. Rabbit 2 Mar 10:20
      @lamarax That's what I used! (In reply to black coffee).. But the milk might not be good at all for paper.
    • Grayfeather 2 Mar 0:08
      Good day, all.
    • Gertrude F 20 Feb 17:58
      Sorry think I posted this in the wrong place. Used to be a user, just re-upped. Be kind. 😑
    • Gertrude F 20 Feb 17:56
      Looking to sell huge lot of pretty much every Man 200 made - FP, BP, MP, one or two RBs. Does anyone have a suggestion for a bulk purhase house? Thanks - and hope this doesn't violate any rules.
    • lamarax 17 Feb 18:05
      Cappuccino should work. Frothy milk also helps to lubricate the nib. But it has to be made by a barista.
    • Astronymus 17 Feb 16:19
      YOu might need to thicken the coffee with something. I admit I have no idea with what. But I'm pretty sure it would work.
    • asnailmailer 3 Feb 17:35
      it is incowrimo time and only very few people are tempting me
    • lamarax 31 Jan 21:34
      Try black coffee. No sugar.
    • T.D. Rabbit 31 Jan 8:11
      Coffee is too light to write with though I've tried.
    • Astronymus 29 Jan 21:46
      You can use coffee and all other kinds of fluid with a glas pen. 😉
    • Roger Zhao 29 Jan 14:37
      chocolate is yummy
    • Bucefalo 17 Jan 9:59
      anyone sells vacumatic push button shafts
    • stxrling 13 Jan 1:25
      Are there any threads or posts up yet about the California Pen Show in February, does anyone know?
    • lamarax 10 Jan 20:27
      Putting coffee in a fountain pen is far more dangerous
    • asnailmailer 9 Jan 0:09
      Don't drink the ink
    • zug zug 8 Jan 16:48
      Coffee inks or coffee, the drink? Both are yummy though.
    • LandyVlad 8 Jan 5:37
      I hear the price of coffee is going up. WHich is bad because I like coffee.
    • asnailmailer 6 Jan 14:43
      time for a nice cup of tea
    • Just J 25 Dec 1:57
      @liauyat re editing profile: At forum page top, find the Search panel. Just above that you should see your user name with a tiny down arrow [🔽] alongside. Click that & scroll down to CONTENT, & under that, Profile. Click that, & edit 'til thy heart's content!
    • liapuyat 12 Dec 12:20
      I can't seem to edit my profile, which is years out of date, because I've only returned to FPN again recently. How do you fix it?
    • mattaw 5 Dec 14:25
      @lantanagal did you do anything to fix that? I get that page every time I try to go to edit my profile...
    • Penguincollector 30 Nov 19:14
      Super excited to go check out the PDX Pen Bazaar today. I volunteered to help set up tables. It should be super fun, followed by Xmas tree shopping. 😁
    • niuben 30 Nov 10:41
      @Nurse Ratchet
    • Nurse Ratchet 30 Nov 2:49
      Newbie here!!! Helloall
    • Emes 25 Nov 23:31
      jew
    • Misfit 9 Nov 2:38
      lantanagal, I’ve only seen that happen when you put someone on the ignore list. I doubt a friend would do that.
    • lantanagal 7 Nov 19:01
      UPDATE - FIXED NOW Exact message is: Requested page not available! Dear Visitor of the Fountain Pen Nuthouse The page you are requesting to visit is not available to you. You are not authorised to access the requested page. Regards, The FPN Admin Team November 7, 2024
    • lantanagal 7 Nov 18:59
      UPDATE - FIXED NOW Trying to send a pen friend a reply to a message, keep getting an error message to say I don't have access. Anyone any ideas? (tried logging our and back in to no avail)
    • Dr.R 2 Nov 16:58
      Raina’s
    • fireant 2 Nov 1:36
      Fine-have you had a nibmeister look at it?
    • carlos.q 29 Oct 15:19
      @FineFinerFinest: have you seen this thread? https://www.fountainpennetwor...nging-pelikan-nibs/#comments
    • FineFinerFinest 24 Oct 8:52
      No replies required to my complaints about the Pelikan. A friend came to the rescue with some very magnification equipment - with the images thrown to a latge high res screen. Technology is a wonderful thing. Thanks to Mercian for the reply. I had been using the same paper & ink for sometime when the "singing" started. I have a theory but no proof that nibs get damaged when capping the pen. 👍
    • Mercian 22 Oct 22:28
      @FineFinerFinest: sometimes nib-'singing' can be lessened - or even cured - by changing the ink that one is putting through the pen, or the paper that one is using. N.b. *sometimes*. Good luck
    • Bluetaco 22 Oct 22:04
      howdy
    • FineFinerFinest 21 Oct 5:23
      I'm not expecting any replies to my question about the singing Pelikan nib. It seems, from reading the background, that I am not alone. It's a nice pen. It's such a pity Pelikan can't make decent nibs. I have occasionally met users who tell me how wonderful their Pelikan nib is. I've spent enough money to know that not everyone has this experience. I've worked on nibs occasionally over forty years with great success. This one has me beaten. I won't be buying any more Pelikan pens. 👎
    • FineFinerFinest 21 Oct 4:27
      I've had a Pelikan M805 for a couple of years now and cannot get the nib to write without singing. I've worked on dozens of nibs with great success. Ny suggestion about what's going wrong? 😑
    • Bhakt 12 Oct 5:45
      Any feedback in 100th anniversary Mont Blanc green pens?
    • Glens pens 8 Oct 15:08
      @jordierocks94 i happen to have platinum preppy that has wrote like (bleep) since i bought it my second pen....is that something you would wish to practice on?
    • jordierocks94 4 Oct 6:26
      Hello all - New here. My Art studies have spilled me into the ft pen world where I am happily submerged and floating! I'm looking to repair some cheap pens that are starving for ink yet filled, and eventually get new nibs; and development of repair skills (an even longer learning curve than my art studies - lol). Every hobby needs a hobby, eh ...
    • The_Beginner 18 Sept 23:35
      horse notebooks if you search the title should still appear though it wont show you in your proflie
    • Jayme Brener 16 Sept 22:21
      Hi, guys. I wonder if somebody knows who manufactured the Coro fountain pens.
    • TheHorseNotebooks 16 Sept 13:11
      Hello, it's been ages for me since I was here last time. I had a post (http://www.fountainpennetwork...-notebooks/?view=getnewpost) but I see that it is no longer accessible. Is there anyway to retrieve that one?
    • Refujio Rodriguez 16 Sept 5:39
      I have a match stick simplomatic with a weidlich nib. Does anyone know anything about this pen?
    • The_Beginner 15 Sept 16:11
      dusty yes, glen welcome
    • Glens pens 11 Sept 1:22
      Hello, Im new to FPN I'm so happy to find other foutain penattics. collecting almost one year ,thought I would say hello to everyone.
    • DustyBin 8 Sept 14:34
      I haven't been here for ages... do I take it that private sales are no longer allowed? Also used to be a great place to sell and buy some great pens
    • Sailor Kenshin 1 Sept 12:37
      Lol…
    • JungleJim 1 Sept 1:55
      Perhaps it's like saying Beetlejuice 3 times to get that person to appear, though with @Sailor Kenshin you only have to say it twice?
    • Sailor Kenshin 31 Aug 21:06
      ?
    • Duffy 29 Aug 19:31
      @Sailor Kenshin @Sailor Kenshin
    • Seney724 26 Aug 22:07
    • Diablo 26 Aug 22:05
      Thank you so much, Seney724. I really appreciate your help!
    • Seney724 26 Aug 21:43
      I have no ties or relationship. Just a very happy customer. He is a very experienced Montblanc expert.
    • Seney724 26 Aug 21:42
      I strongly recommend Kirk Speer at https://www.penrealm.com/
    • Diablo 26 Aug 21:35
      @Seney724. The pen was recently disassembled and cleaned, but the nib and feed were not properly inserted into the holder. I'm in Maryland.
    • Diablo 26 Aug 21:32
      @Seney724. The nib section needs to be adjusted properly.
    • Seney724 26 Aug 18:16
      @Diablo. Where are you? What does it need?
    • Diablo 26 Aug 16:58
      Seeking EXPERIENCED, REPUTABLE service/repair for my 149. PLEASE help!!!
    • Penguincollector 19 Aug 19:42
      @Marta Val, reach out to @terim, who runs Peyton Street Pens and is very knowledgeable about Sheaffer pens
    • Marta Val 19 Aug 14:35
      Hello, could someone recommend a reliable venue: on line or brick and mortar in Fairfax, VA or Long Island, NY to purchase the soft parts and a converter to restore my dad's Sheaffer Legacy? please. Thanks a mill.
    • The_Beginner 18 Aug 2:49
      is there a guy who we can message to find a part for us with a given timelimit if so please let me know his name!
    • virtuoso 16 Aug 15:15
      what happene to the new Shaeffer inks?
    • Scribs 14 Aug 17:09
      fatehbajwa, in Writing Instruments, "Fountain Pens + Dip Pens First Stop" ?
    • fatehbajwa 14 Aug 12:17
      Back to FPN after 14 years. First thing I noticed is that I could not see a FS forum. What has changed? 🤔
    • Kika 5 Aug 10:22
      Are there any fountain pen collectors in Qatar?
    • T.D. Rabbit 31 July 18:58
      Ahh okay, thanks!
    • Scribs 29 July 18:51
      @ TDRabbit, even better would be in Creative Expressions area, subform The Write Stuff
    • T.D. Rabbit 29 July 11:40
      Okay, thanks!
    • JungleJim 29 July 0:46
      @T.D. Rabbit Try posting it in the "Chatter Forum". You have to be logged in to see it.
    • T.D. Rabbit 28 July 17:54
      Hello! Is there a thread anywhere 'round here where one can post self-composed poetry? If not, would it be alright if I made one? I searched on google, but to no avail...
    • OldFatDog 26 July 19:41
      I have several Parker Roller Ball & Fiber Tip refills in the original packaging. Where and how do I sell them? The couple that I've opened the ink still flowed when put to paper. Also if a pen would take the foller ball refill then it should take the fiber tip as well? Anyway it's been awhile and I'm want to take my message collection beyond the few pieces that I have... Meaning I don't have a Parker these refills will fit in 🙄
    • RegDiggins 23 July 12:40
      Recently was lucky enough to buy a pristine example of the CF crocodile ball with the gold plating. Then of course I faced the same problem we all have over the years ,of trying to find e refill. Fortunately I discovered one here in the U.K. I wonder if there are other sources which exist in other countries, by the way they were not cheap pen
    • The_Beginner 20 July 20:35
      Hows it going guys i have a code from pen chalet that i wont use for 10% off and it ends aug 31st RC10AUG its 10% off have at it fellas
    • T.D. Rabbit 19 July 9:33
      Somewhat confusing and off-putting ones, as said to me by my very honest friends. I don't have an X account though :<
    • piano 19 July 8:41
      @The Devil Rabbit what kind of? Let’s go to X (twitter) with #inkdoodle #inkdoodleFP
    • Mort639 17 July 1:03
      I have a Conway Stewart Trafalgar set. It was previously owned by actor Russell Crowe and includes a letter from him. Can anyone help me with assessing its value?
    • Sailor Kenshin 15 July 17:41
      There must be a couple of places here to share artworks.
    • T.D. Rabbit 15 July 12:45
      Hullo! I really like making ink doodles, and I'd like to share a few. Anywhere on the site I can do so? Thanks in advance!
    • Sailor Kenshin 6 July 17:58
      Pay It Forward.
    • AndWhoDisguisedAs 6 July 16:59
      where would I post wanting to trade bottle of ink straight up?
    • JungleJim 3 July 16:14
      @Bill Wood-- just look at the message below you that was posted by @PAKMAN. He is a moderator here on the forums.
    • Bill Wood 2 July 14:24
      Just checking on a classified section and where we are with that. Many thanks. Bill
    • PAKMAN 29 June 1:57
      @inky1 The software for the classified stopped working with the forum. So no we don't have a sales section anymore at FPN
    • inky1 28 June 16:49
      I am not sure which is the classifieds section
    • inky1 28 June 16:46
      IIs there a Fountain Pen Sales board anywhere on here?
    • dave c 25 June 19:01
      Hi. Anybody ever heard about a Royal Puck Pen. Very small but good looking.
    • Eppie_Matts 23 June 19:25
      Thanks! I've just ordered some #6's to experiment with.
    • Al-fresco 21 June 12:11
      @Eppie_Matts Shouldn't be a problem - I've just put a Bock #6 Titanium into a La Grande Bellezza section. Went straight in without any problem.
    • Curiousone11 21 June 4:35
      Any recommendations on anyone who specializes in original pen patents?
    • Eppie_Matts 20 June 1:32
      Hi all - I'm new to experimenting with pens and nibs. Can I put a bock 6 on a Pineider? Thanks!
    • penned in 16 June 17:33
      Hi, I'm new to this forum and was wondering where is the best place to sell a Montblanc ballpoint pen? Are ballpoints allowed here? It's a beautiful pen that deserves a great listing. Thanks.
    • ChrisUrbane 9 June 3:16
      I havent logged in here for a while. I have moved and when I try to change my location on my profile, when I go to save it, it sais 'page not found' and that I do not have authority to change that.
    • Dlj 6 June 20:19
      I am looking for someone who can repair a Waterman Preface ballpoint that won’t stay together
    • Penguincollector 30 May 14:59
      I just noticed that the oppsing team of the game I watched last night had a player named Biro in their lineup. He must be part of Marsell the oily magician’s cadre
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