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Inky Terminology


LizEF

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In a recent thread inquiring about a wet ink, the discussion turned to how terms like "wet", "lubrication", and "saturation" are used when inks are discussed or reviewed.  Another term came up: "viscosity".  I suspect understanding of these terms is either inconsistent or non-existent in many of us - and I count my former self in that group (though I still don't feel like I have as good a grasp on "viscosity" as I would like).  "Surfactant" is another term we might want to define, to aid understanding overall.  (I'm open to more being added, as needed.)

 

In this thread, I'd like us to discuss and attempt to define these terms in a way that nearly anyone can understand without having to go take chemistry and physics classes.  We should feel free to get as scientific as we wish, but the end goal should be a short explanation of each term, in hopes that an inky moderator will then "sticky" those definitions in or around the ink review forms which ask the reviewer to rate or evaluate these attributes of the ink.  We may also wish to discuss how these attributes impact other things, like dry time, shading, and sheen.  In essence, we will be creating a glossary that includes not only definitions, but examples, cross-references, and perhaps even instruction on how to gauge these attributes for oneself.

 

As a reference, I'll add a link to "How I Test Ink Viscosity" by An Ink Guy on YouTube.

 

Finally, I'll give examples of things that I'm sure fit our discussion, but which don't help with understanding.  The following is Monteverde's description (from this page) of their "ITF technology" (bolding is mine):

  Quote

Each ink is carefully crafted for use in your favorite fountain pens using ITF™ technology; aiding in maintenance by improving ink flow and extending cap-off time, all the while lubricating your fountain pen feeding system.

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I'm with them right up until the bolded sentence.  What does that mean?  Does that mean it lubricates the piston in my piston fillers / converter / vacuum fillers, etc.?  Does it mean that it somehow lubricates the feed (and nib slit)?  Both?

 

Related is the fact that Noodler's "Eel" line of inks are often described as "lubricating" (that's even the menu item where you'll find them on Noodler's website), which has confused many a user.  From some Goulet video (sorry, not gonna go try to find it), I learned that the intent was for the ink to lubricate the piston in piston fillers.  But I have read users' assumptions that it means lubricating the nib on paper, and unless you happen to see something that tells you otherwise, it's hard to blame anyone for that assumption.

 

Please share your thoughts or feel free to kick off introductory definitions of (one or more) these terms.  If no one beats me to it, I'll return in a hour or two to take a stab.

 

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Nice one Liz. :thumbup:

Inks can be wet without being lubricated. 

Lubrication gives a cushiony feel to the nib IMHO. But to me it's a tactile and thus subjective.

Viscosity: I have noticed General of the Armies is particularly viscous. It's not as watery as Caran d'Ache inks. However, it's a wet ink :)

 

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I'll take a stab at one-

 

"Viscosity" is just referring to how well a solution flows. As extreme examples, think of pouring water out of a bottle vs. pouring maple syrup or molasses. The former will flow out easily, while the latter will pour slowly.

 

Of course in inks the differences are a lot more subtle, but essentially a less viscous ink will "flow" out of the pen easier than a more viscous one, all else being equal.

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Flow (wetness): This refers to the rate, or speed, at which an ink will flow out of a pen.  (This appears to be equivalent to viscosity - that is, an ink's viscosity dictates the rate at which it flows.  It also appears to either be or relate directly to surface tension.  It appears to be related to the presence of surfactants in the ink.)

 

A wet ink, or ink with "wet flow", will flow more quickly from the nib, putting more ink on the page, sometimes enough that you can actually see a three dimensional bead of ink.  A dry ink flows slowly from the nib, you're less likely to get that bead of ink or even the impression of wetness on the page.  (But see comments on "dry time", which I'll make in a later post.)

 

Flow or wetness (aka viscosity) may impact dry time and lubrication, but is not the same.  Please see the definitions for those terms.

 

Dictionary definition of viscous: "having a thick, sticky consistency between solid and liquid; having a high viscosity."

 

Dictionary definitions of viscosity: "the state of being thick, sticky, and semifluid in consistency, due to internal friction." and "a quantity expressing the magnitude of internal friction, as measured by the force per unit area resisting a flow in which parallel layers unit distance apart have unit speed relative to one another."

 

This suggests to me that, for FP ink purposes, a "high viscosity" is dry and "low viscosity" is wet.  This is consistent with "An Ink Guy" rates inks, with higher numbers for drier inks, lower numbers for wetter inks.

 

For anyone with too much time on their hands, it seems like reading up on Viscosity, Surface Tension, and Capillary Action would make a good personal physics class.  Wikipedia's animation for viscosity makes things very clear, for the visual learner.  (I'm not entirely certain, as I don't have too much time on my hands right now, but it appears surface tension may impact viscosity but the two aren't the same thing.)

 

Since it may be simpler to discuss each term separately, I'll post them separately and you can reply to each separately.  (We may abandon this "naturally" since these things relate to each other, but it's a starting point.)

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  On 4/6/2021 at 8:39 PM, bunnspecial said:

I'll take a stab at one-

 

"Viscosity" is just referring to how well a solution flows. As extreme examples, think of pouring water out of a bottle vs. pouring maple syrup or molasses. The former will flow out easily, while the latter will pour slowly.

 

Of course in inks the differences are a lot more subtle, but essentially a less viscous ink will "flow" out of the pen easier than a more viscous one, all else being equal.

Expand  

:thumbup:  I decided to expand a reply into more detail so we can explore in more detail before narrowing it down - and perhaps even decide not to narrow it down.  Perhaps potential reviewers who get spooked by the idea of rating an ink's rate of flow or degree of lubrication need more detail rather than less.  And, since everyone learns differently, perhaps we need multiple ways of explaining the same thing.  (Just thinking out loud here.)

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  On 4/6/2021 at 6:32 PM, LizEF said:

What does that mean?  Does that mean it lubricates the piston in my piston fillers / converter / vacuum fillers, etc.?  Does it mean that it somehow lubricates the feed (and nib slit)?  Both?

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As far as my understanding goes, a lubricant (i.e. lubricating substance) essentially reduces friction between two touching physical surfaces that are moving against each other. The viscosity, fluidity and/or flow characteristics of the substance itself, and how strongly or weakly it would adhere to the physical surfaces in contact with it — whether they are an ink reservoir's inner walls, the rim of a piston plug, ink channel on a feed, the underside of a nib, or opposite inner surfaces on its tines — are logically separate from what defines it as a lubricant.

 

There isn't anything in a Pilot fountain pen's feeding system to lubricate if you're using a CON-B or CON-20 converter as the ink reservoir, when the pressure bar with which to squeeze the sac is outside and does not come into contact with the ink. If you're using a CON-40 converter to fill and feed the pen, drawing ink up (from a bottle, vial or inkwell) through the nib and feed into the reservoir is unlikely to cause the ink to get so far up the converter's tube to reach the rim of the rotary-driven piston plug; in which case, “all the while lubricating your fountain pen feeding system” is pretty meaningless. Come to think of it, that is the case with piston-filled pens such as the Pelikan Souverän models as well. The feeding system that keeps the ink flowing and the pen writing has no moving parts in its normal operation; but it is the filling system that has moving parts where friction is a consideration.

 

Then, taking this now in a different direction, some facet(s) of the tip of a pen's nib will come into contact when writing (or drawing) with it on paper. Does a lubricating ink — for as long as it remains strictly between the metal and the page surface, as opposed to having been absorbed into the paper's fibres and/or combined with its coating (or sizing) — reduce friction in pen strokes more than not overtly lubricating inks do? Does some component of the lubricating ink bind with the paper's surface and effectively glazes it to lower the friction coefficient (where there are ink marks) persistently? Or is there only a split-second, just before the ink is fully absorbed into the paper's substrate, when coefficient friction between the nib tipping (that just delivered the ink onto the page surface) and paper is lowered, in a way or to an extent that a not overtly lubricating ink would not?

 

In any case, a good lubricant does not have to be present in abundance or to the point of excess, in order to do its job of reducing friction; so an ink formulated especially to act as an effective lubricant between nib and paper with each pen stroke need not be a ‘wet’ or readily flowing ink.

I endeavour to be frank and truthful in what I write, show or otherwise present, when I relate my first-hand experiences that are not independently verifiable; and link to third-party content where I can, when I make a claim or refute a statement of fact in a thread. If there is something you can verify for yourself, I entreat you to do so, and judge for yourself what is right, correct, and valid. I may be wrong, and my position or say-so is no more authoritative and carries no more weight than anyone else's here.

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  On 4/7/2021 at 7:36 AM, A Smug Dill said:

...

In any case, a good lubricant does not have to be present in abundance or to the point of excess, in order to do its job of reducing friction; so an ink formulated especially to act as an effective lubricant between nib and paper with each pen stroke need not be a ‘wet’ or readily flowing ink.

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Agreed!  And your post is a great exploration of what exactly lubrication means.  Thank you!

 

FYI, my main point was that Monteverde's phrase could only serve to confuse the discussion, not help it. :)  I suppose if they intend this ink to help with piston operation (as is the claim (by one, at least) with Noodler's Eel ink), then one would have to assume it's designed to work its way between piston and wall.  But then it sure seems probable it would bring dye with it, and who wants that?  Anywho, not our main point.

 

I'm in the midst of updating my reviews with scans (of questionable worth, but sometimes I get a little OCD) and USB microscope pictures of writing on "absorbent paper".  Once that's done, I'll come back here to take a stab at more definitions, explanations, and/or instructions.

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  On 4/7/2021 at 2:14 PM, LizEF said:

… one would have to assume it's designed to work its way between piston and wall.  But then it sure seems probable it would bring dye with it, and who wants that?  Anywho, not our main point.

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Indeed, I'm sure most — if not all — of us have seen some tiny amount of ink somehow working its way over to the ‘wrong’ side of a piston plug. An ink-repelling lubricant applied to the rim or sides of a piston plug would improve the seal of an imperfect fit between the plug and the walls of the reservoir, whereas if the (lubricating) ink itself acts as the lubricant, then surely it just makes the seal even less perfect, since the substance filling the microscopic gap(s) cannot then repel the ink that is in the reservoir with which it is homogenous! I'd be greatly concerned about that.

 

I'm not sure whether it would have an impact on the ink flow rate (i.e. its ‘wetness’) down through the feed and nib onto the page surface, though.

I endeavour to be frank and truthful in what I write, show or otherwise present, when I relate my first-hand experiences that are not independently verifiable; and link to third-party content where I can, when I make a claim or refute a statement of fact in a thread. If there is something you can verify for yourself, I entreat you to do so, and judge for yourself what is right, correct, and valid. I may be wrong, and my position or say-so is no more authoritative and carries no more weight than anyone else's here.

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OK, I went and looked at the ink review forms and suggestions for what to include in an ink review, and the only three terms that seemed like they might be difficult for a new reviewer are:

  • Flow (which we've started)
  • Lubrication (which we've started)
  • Saturation

I think I'll start saturation next because I think it can have at least an indirect impact on flow and lubrication, even if most of us don't have the ability to measure the relationship, we should be aware of it.

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  On 4/7/2021 at 10:32 PM, LizEF said:

I think I'll start saturation next

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https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/349279-ink-report-sheets/?do=findComment&comment=4248734

 

I endeavour to be frank and truthful in what I write, show or otherwise present, when I relate my first-hand experiences that are not independently verifiable; and link to third-party content where I can, when I make a claim or refute a statement of fact in a thread. If there is something you can verify for yourself, I entreat you to do so, and judge for yourself what is right, correct, and valid. I may be wrong, and my position or say-so is no more authoritative and carries no more weight than anyone else's here.

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Nothing of substance to contribute here, but thank you for this thread!! This is awesome.

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  On 4/8/2021 at 12:09 AM, OutlawJosey said:

Nothing of substance to contribute here, but thank you for this thread!! This is awesome.

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Thank you for saying so - it helps a bit (for me, at least) to know that there is interest and potential for folks to make use of our results.

 

PS: I'm now way behind as my brother called and after discussing his interests in Porsches, we discussed my uneven lighting and how to fix it.  My conclusion is that I'm going to need two more of the lights I already have.  Hopefully that will provide even coverage.  Sigh.

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  On 4/7/2021 at 10:32 PM, LizEF said:

OK, I went and looked at the ink review forms and suggestions for what to include in an ink review, and the only three terms that seemed like they might be difficult for a new reviewer are:

  • Flow (which we've started)
  • Lubrication (which we've started)
  • Saturation

I think I'll start saturation next because I think it can have at least an indirect impact on flow and lubrication, even if most of us don't have the ability to measure the relationship, we should be aware of it.

Expand  

Maybe we should add things like permanence, light-fastness, water-resistance - reviewers likely make their own rules as to how to rate or measure these, and if some commentary were included in our would-be glossary, it might help add a bit of consistence.  (Though to do a meaningful light-fastness test is a long-term project and doesn't likely fit most review scenarios.)

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Saturation

I'll start by pulling in two of the dictionary definitions:

 

  Quote

the state or process that occurs when no more of something can be absorbed, combined with, or added.
 

Chemistry: the degree or extent to which something is dissolved or absorbed compared with the maximum possible, usually expressed as a percentage.

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Thus, saturation in ink reviews describes the "dye load" or what percentage of the total possible amount of dye that could be dissolved in the ink is actually present.

 

In my experience, the easiest way to measure this is to look for shading (inks which shade are not fully saturated; fully saturated inks do not shade), or to do a multi-pass swab (or similar - e.g. with Pilot Parallels) pass, overlapping a portion of the previous swab - usually, 3 passes are done.  Here's an example from a google image search:

Caran+d+Ache+Vibrant+Green+Ink+Saturatio

 

The fact that you can see different shades of lightness / darkness between 1, 2, and 3 indicates that this ink is not fully saturated.  I have seen inks where 1, 2, and 3 are indistinguishable, inks where 2 & 3 are indistinguishable, and inks like the above, where all three are different.

 

NOTE: I believe it's possible to do this wrong and get false results.  The goal is not to dump as much ink as possible in every pass.  On the contrary, each pass should lay down a thin, but solid layer of ink.  I think Pilot Parallels and similar pens / nibs are better for this than saturated cotton swabs.  (I came to this realization looking at some Goulet ink sheets where the writing showed shading, but the three passes were indistinguishable.  The only way that's possible is if the swab passes put down an excess of ink.)

 

Anyone have better ways to measure saturation / dye load?  Suggestions for defining the term or offering instruction or examples.

 

Other Comments

Over in the thread @A Smug Dill linked, there is mention of the other type of saturation, which I'll describe with another dictionary definition:

  Quote

(especially in photography) the intensity of a color, expressed as the degree to which it differs from white.

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This use is for artists who are presumably trained on the subject, and I suspect it's lost on most of us.  (A search for "color saturation chart" will reveal more than most of us want to know.)

 

IMO, this is not what most reviewers mean by saturation (they mean the former, chemistry, definition, or "dye load").  Further, I think most humans would have a much harder time accurately describing this "color saturation" than describing the "dye load".  And to top it off, I think most consumers either don't care (they just care whether they like the color) or can judge for themselves by looking at the images.  It may be valid to mention as a footnote that if the reviewer wishes to comment on "color saturation", they should label or describe it as such or in such as way as to distinguish it from "dye load".

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It occurs to me that images would be a good thing to include in our glossary.  And that dedicated images would be far better than some image I yanked off the internet.  To that end, when we're ready, I think I could make the needed images.

 

Saturation is one thing for which we can include images.  Water-resistance might be another.  The other terms would need audio and/or video, if anything at all could demonstrate them.  (Technically, lightfastness could use images, but I'm not really sure we should include it at all, but whether we do, making new images isn't gonna work as it would take too long.)

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  On 4/8/2021 at 2:41 AM, LizEF said:

permanence

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If we do cover this one, we might mention why some solvents are used beyond just water - like ammonia - for the longest time, I had no idea why VittaR on YouTube was using it.  Eventually I learned that it's an ingredient in pen flush and a really good way to remove ink from at least some things, so it makes sense if the user wants to know about resistance to removal.

 

Anybody wanna buy me a laser so I can test Noodler's Warden inks? :lticaptd:

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  On 4/8/2021 at 2:41 AM, LizEF said:

Maybe we should add things like permanence, light-fastness, water-resistance - reviewers likely make their own rules as to how to rate or measure these,

Expand  

 

I'm increasingly inclined to conclude that ‘water-resistant’ and ‘waterproof’ simply cannot be traits of an ink as the substance under review, when the solvent in fountain pen inks is primarily water. Instead, they describe a characteristic of the marks made with the ink on a surface; and so the type of paper*, the method of application — not just that there's a difference between a cotton swab and the hard metal tip of a nib, but also how hard the nib is pressed onto the paper since it may either compromise the coating/sizing on the paper surface, or make the fibres/filler more densely packed along the ink marks, thus changing the paper's ink absorption characteristics —  and the volume of ink applied (and this is where ‘wetness’ may come into play) could affect it. Ink marks made with, say, Sailor Seiboku may be waterproof on one type of paper but not so much on another.

 

I myself have been guilty many times over of (mis)using ‘water-resistant’ and/or ‘waterproof’ to describe inks, in my ink reviews and in other discussion threads.

 

On the distinction between ‘water-resistant’ and ‘waterproof‘, I'd say that the latter means unaffected by exposure to and prolonged contact with water — no colourants in the dried ink marks get dissolved and seep off the page into the bath into which the paper is submerged, or are chemically affected to change the clarity/definition (including by induced feathering) and apparent colour of the ink marks, and so on. Whereas I think there are two different aspects to ‘water-resistant’: how well the ink marks resist being physically or chemically changed by exposure to water, and whether the information content of the ink marks remain legible/retrievable afterwards.

 

Also note that mechanical erasure may come into play, when testing for water resistance and/or waterproofness. Ink marks made by pigment inks may well be waterproof when just soaked (even for days on end), but putting them under a running tap or subjecting them to a pressurised jet of water may cause physical removal of the some of the pigment, with or without damaging the surface layer of the paper. 

 

Then there's this:

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/355628-struggling-to-find-a-waterproof-black-for-watercolor-sketches/?do=findComment&comment=4357317

 

 

* There are just so many aspects to this. What is the paper made of — specific type(s) of wood pulp, cotton, or even stone? Is the finish cold-press or warm-press? Is there some sort of coating, sizing or glazing applied to the paper surface? How fine or long are the fibres, and how densely are they packed (which goes beyond measuring paper weight by gsm or g/m², when a particular 120gsm paper that is twice as thick physically as a particular 80gsm paper would be less dense than the latter)? Does the grain matter? I think we really need expert input on this, especially in how the different aspects would affect the penetration and/or absorption of the ink, and the binding of the colourants to the paper.

I endeavour to be frank and truthful in what I write, show or otherwise present, when I relate my first-hand experiences that are not independently verifiable; and link to third-party content where I can, when I make a claim or refute a statement of fact in a thread. If there is something you can verify for yourself, I entreat you to do so, and judge for yourself what is right, correct, and valid. I may be wrong, and my position or say-so is no more authoritative and carries no more weight than anyone else's here.

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Great topic and ditto contributions! 👋 As someone trained in science, I have a built-in appreciation for the kind of distinction made in this topic, such as the previous one by Dill about water-resistant and water-proof. On a similar note, I’ve always maintained that inks don’t shade but it’s the pen that makes an ink shade. Ink is just a fluid and shading is caused by uneven application of the ink on the page (all other factors remaining the same). The ability to sheen, on the other hand, is a property of the ink (albeit influenced by the wetness of the pen). On the other hand... if someone says ‘dude, this ink is wet!’ then I know what is meant. The realisation that it might just be the pen that is wet and not the ink, that writing pressure and choice of paper matter, all of that is instantaneously understood and need not be expressed explicitly. To put it very differently, discussing pens and inks can just be fun, without a need for strict science. Having said that, topics like these are a joy.

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  On 4/8/2021 at 3:24 AM, LizEF said:

In my experience, the easiest way to measure this is to look for shading (inks which shade are not fully saturated; fully saturated inks do not shade),

Expand  

 

I'm not sure about that. Going by that sense of the word ‘saturation’, if you added more dye to a fully saturated ink, the dye simply won't dissolve; but if the dye is of a light enough colour, then spreading a fully saturated ink (thinly) on paper would still produce shading, on account of more ink is physically deposited, or allowed to pool and then dry, on some parts of certain pen strokes and intersections of ink tracks.

 

  On 4/8/2021 at 3:24 AM, LizEF said:

IMO, this is not what most reviewers mean by saturation (they mean the former, chemistry, definition, or "dye load").  Further, I think most humans would have a much harder time accurately describing this "color saturation" than describing the "dye load".

Expand  

 

I'm not sure about that either. A dull blue-grey is less saturated than a vivid light blue as far as colour goes; that's easy.

 

But the former may just have more dye per unit area covered by ink marks — which may be because the ink is highly saturated, or because the ink was applied ‘wetly’, or both — than the latter. So, when I say a particular writing fluid is an “under-saturated blue ink”, would I be talking about the colour saturation or the dye load? ;)

I endeavour to be frank and truthful in what I write, show or otherwise present, when I relate my first-hand experiences that are not independently verifiable; and link to third-party content where I can, when I make a claim or refute a statement of fact in a thread. If there is something you can verify for yourself, I entreat you to do so, and judge for yourself what is right, correct, and valid. I may be wrong, and my position or say-so is no more authoritative and carries no more weight than anyone else's here.

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      lantanagal, I’ve only seen that happen when you put someone on the ignore list. I doubt a friend would do that.
    • lantanagal 7 Nov 19:01
      UPDATE - FIXED NOW Exact message is: Requested page not available! Dear Visitor of the Fountain Pen Nuthouse The page you are requesting to visit is not available to you. You are not authorised to access the requested page. Regards, The FPN Admin Team November 7, 2024
    • lantanagal 7 Nov 18:59
      UPDATE - FIXED NOW Trying to send a pen friend a reply to a message, keep getting an error message to say I don't have access. Anyone any ideas? (tried logging our and back in to no avail)
    • Dr.R 2 Nov 16:58
      Raina’s
    • fireant 2 Nov 1:36
      Fine-have you had a nibmeister look at it?
    • carlos.q 29 Oct 15:19
      @FineFinerFinest: have you seen this thread? https://www.fountainpennetwor...nging-pelikan-nibs/#comments
    • FineFinerFinest 24 Oct 8:52
      No replies required to my complaints about the Pelikan. A friend came to the rescue with some very magnification equipment - with the images thrown to a latge high res screen. Technology is a wonderful thing. Thanks to Mercian for the reply. I had been using the same paper & ink for sometime when the "singing" started. I have a theory but no proof that nibs get damaged when capping the pen. 👍
    • Mercian 22 Oct 22:28
      @FineFinerFinest: sometimes nib-'singing' can be lessened - or even cured - by changing the ink that one is putting through the pen, or the paper that one is using. N.b. *sometimes*. Good luck
    • Bluetaco 22 Oct 22:04
      howdy
    • FineFinerFinest 21 Oct 5:23
      I'm not expecting any replies to my question about the singing Pelikan nib. It seems, from reading the background, that I am not alone. It's a nice pen. It's such a pity Pelikan can't make decent nibs. I have occasionally met users who tell me how wonderful their Pelikan nib is. I've spent enough money to know that not everyone has this experience. I've worked on nibs occasionally over forty years with great success. This one has me beaten. I won't be buying any more Pelikan pens. 👎
    • FineFinerFinest 21 Oct 4:27
      I've had a Pelikan M805 for a couple of years now and cannot get the nib to write without singing. I've worked on dozens of nibs with great success. Ny suggestion about what's going wrong? 😑
    • Bhakt 12 Oct 5:45
      Any feedback in 100th anniversary Mont Blanc green pens?
    • Glens pens 8 Oct 15:08
      @jordierocks94 i happen to have platinum preppy that has wrote like (bleep) since i bought it my second pen....is that something you would wish to practice on?
    • jordierocks94 4 Oct 6:26
      Hello all - New here. My Art studies have spilled me into the ft pen world where I am happily submerged and floating! I'm looking to repair some cheap pens that are starving for ink yet filled, and eventually get new nibs; and development of repair skills (an even longer learning curve than my art studies - lol). Every hobby needs a hobby, eh ...
    • The_Beginner 18 Sept 23:35
      horse notebooks if you search the title should still appear though it wont show you in your proflie
    • Jayme Brener 16 Sept 22:21
      Hi, guys. I wonder if somebody knows who manufactured the Coro fountain pens.
    • TheHorseNotebooks 16 Sept 13:11
      Hello, it's been ages for me since I was here last time. I had a post (http://www.fountainpennetwork...-notebooks/?view=getnewpost) but I see that it is no longer accessible. Is there anyway to retrieve that one?
    • Refujio Rodriguez 16 Sept 5:39
      I have a match stick simplomatic with a weidlich nib. Does anyone know anything about this pen?
    • The_Beginner 15 Sept 16:11
      dusty yes, glen welcome
    • Glens pens 11 Sept 1:22
      Hello, Im new to FPN I'm so happy to find other foutain penattics. collecting almost one year ,thought I would say hello to everyone.
    • DustyBin 8 Sept 14:34
      I haven't been here for ages... do I take it that private sales are no longer allowed? Also used to be a great place to sell and buy some great pens
    • Sailor Kenshin 1 Sept 12:37
      Lol…
    • JungleJim 1 Sept 1:55
      Perhaps it's like saying Beetlejuice 3 times to get that person to appear, though with @Sailor Kenshin you only have to say it twice?
    • Sailor Kenshin 31 Aug 21:06
      ?
    • Duffy 29 Aug 19:31
      @Sailor Kenshin @Sailor Kenshin
    • Seney724 26 Aug 22:07
    • Diablo 26 Aug 22:05
      Thank you so much, Seney724. I really appreciate your help!
    • Seney724 26 Aug 21:43
      I have no ties or relationship. Just a very happy customer. He is a very experienced Montblanc expert.
    • Seney724 26 Aug 21:42
      I strongly recommend Kirk Speer at https://www.penrealm.com/
    • Diablo 26 Aug 21:35
      @Seney724. The pen was recently disassembled and cleaned, but the nib and feed were not properly inserted into the holder. I'm in Maryland.
    • Diablo 26 Aug 21:32
      @Seney724. The nib section needs to be adjusted properly.
    • Seney724 26 Aug 18:16
      @Diablo. Where are you? What does it need?
    • Diablo 26 Aug 16:58
      Seeking EXPERIENCED, REPUTABLE service/repair for my 149. PLEASE help!!!
    • Penguincollector 19 Aug 19:42
      @Marta Val, reach out to @terim, who runs Peyton Street Pens and is very knowledgeable about Sheaffer pens
    • Marta Val 19 Aug 14:35
      Hello, could someone recommend a reliable venue: on line or brick and mortar in Fairfax, VA or Long Island, NY to purchase the soft parts and a converter to restore my dad's Sheaffer Legacy? please. Thanks a mill.
    • The_Beginner 18 Aug 2:49
      is there a guy who we can message to find a part for us with a given timelimit if so please let me know his name!
    • virtuoso 16 Aug 15:15
      what happene to the new Shaeffer inks?
    • Scribs 14 Aug 17:09
      fatehbajwa, in Writing Instruments, "Fountain Pens + Dip Pens First Stop" ?
    • fatehbajwa 14 Aug 12:17
      Back to FPN after 14 years. First thing I noticed is that I could not see a FS forum. What has changed? 🤔
    • Kika 5 Aug 10:22
      Are there any fountain pen collectors in Qatar?
    • T.D. Rabbit 31 July 18:58
      Ahh okay, thanks!
    • Scribs 29 July 18:51
      @ TDRabbit, even better would be in Creative Expressions area, subform The Write Stuff
    • T.D. Rabbit 29 July 11:40
      Okay, thanks!
    • JungleJim 29 July 0:46
      @T.D. Rabbit Try posting it in the "Chatter Forum". You have to be logged in to see it.
    • T.D. Rabbit 28 July 17:54
      Hello! Is there a thread anywhere 'round here where one can post self-composed poetry? If not, would it be alright if I made one? I searched on google, but to no avail...
    • OldFatDog 26 July 19:41
      I have several Parker Roller Ball & Fiber Tip refills in the original packaging. Where and how do I sell them? The couple that I've opened the ink still flowed when put to paper. Also if a pen would take the foller ball refill then it should take the fiber tip as well? Anyway it's been awhile and I'm want to take my message collection beyond the few pieces that I have... Meaning I don't have a Parker these refills will fit in 🙄
    • RegDiggins 23 July 12:40
      Recently was lucky enough to buy a pristine example of the CF crocodile ball with the gold plating. Then of course I faced the same problem we all have over the years ,of trying to find e refill. Fortunately I discovered one here in the U.K. I wonder if there are other sources which exist in other countries, by the way they were not cheap pen
    • The_Beginner 20 July 20:35
      Hows it going guys i have a code from pen chalet that i wont use for 10% off and it ends aug 31st RC10AUG its 10% off have at it fellas
    • T.D. Rabbit 19 July 9:33
      Somewhat confusing and off-putting ones, as said to me by my very honest friends. I don't have an X account though :<
    • piano 19 July 8:41
      @The Devil Rabbit what kind of? Let’s go to X (twitter) with #inkdoodle #inkdoodleFP
    • Mort639 17 July 1:03
      I have a Conway Stewart Trafalgar set. It was previously owned by actor Russell Crowe and includes a letter from him. Can anyone help me with assessing its value?
    • Sailor Kenshin 15 July 17:41
      There must be a couple of places here to share artworks.
    • T.D. Rabbit 15 July 12:45
      Hullo! I really like making ink doodles, and I'd like to share a few. Anywhere on the site I can do so? Thanks in advance!
    • Sailor Kenshin 6 July 17:58
      Pay It Forward.
    • AndWhoDisguisedAs 6 July 16:59
      where would I post wanting to trade bottle of ink straight up?
    • JungleJim 3 July 16:14
      @Bill Wood-- just look at the message below you that was posted by @PAKMAN. He is a moderator here on the forums.
    • Bill Wood 2 July 14:24
      Just checking on a classified section and where we are with that. Many thanks. Bill
    • PAKMAN 29 June 1:57
      @inky1 The software for the classified stopped working with the forum. So no we don't have a sales section anymore at FPN
    • inky1 28 June 16:49
      I am not sure which is the classifieds section
    • inky1 28 June 16:46
      IIs there a Fountain Pen Sales board anywhere on here?
    • dave c 25 June 19:01
      Hi. Anybody ever heard about a Royal Puck Pen. Very small but good looking.
    • Eppie_Matts 23 June 19:25
      Thanks! I've just ordered some #6's to experiment with.
    • Al-fresco 21 June 12:11
      @Eppie_Matts Shouldn't be a problem - I've just put a Bock #6 Titanium into a La Grande Bellezza section. Went straight in without any problem.
    • Curiousone11 21 June 4:35
      Any recommendations on anyone who specializes in original pen patents?
    • Eppie_Matts 20 June 1:32
      Hi all - I'm new to experimenting with pens and nibs. Can I put a bock 6 on a Pineider? Thanks!
    • penned in 16 June 17:33
      Hi, I'm new to this forum and was wondering where is the best place to sell a Montblanc ballpoint pen? Are ballpoints allowed here? It's a beautiful pen that deserves a great listing. Thanks.
    • ChrisUrbane 9 June 3:16
      I havent logged in here for a while. I have moved and when I try to change my location on my profile, when I go to save it, it sais 'page not found' and that I do not have authority to change that.
    • Dlj 6 June 20:19
      I am looking for someone who can repair a Waterman Preface ballpoint that won’t stay together
    • Penguincollector 30 May 14:59
      I just noticed that the oppsing team of the game I watched last night had a player named Biro in their lineup. He must be part of Marsell the oily magician’s cadre
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