How to remove a Parker 75 section ring?

[gregglee]

I noticed an ebay listing for Parker 75 replacement section rings that says the rings are threaded onto the plastic grip. ( I don't know anything about the product.  Just showing for reference.)       

 

I don't need any section rings at the moment, but I would like to save the rings from a couple US sections that have damaged barrel threads.  Gripping the ring by hand didn't work.   I'm not surprised.  Could be dried ink.  Or "thread-locker" adhesive.  Or interference fit.    

 

Any recommendations for unscrewing the ring from a section?  And how to soften any adhesive?  heat gun?  solvent?

 

Here is one screen shot from the listing.  Shows right hand threads.  

 

I 

[usk15]

Hi

 

On my P75, the ring was broken, so it came off easily. You might try hot water, or some heat to soften the dry ink.

 

 

[FarmBoy]

 The thread rings on those two sections are not quite the same.  Close enough but not exact.

 

 

[vicpen123]

Would it be smarter to remove the nib and feed to allow for a better grip on the ring?

 

A 75 is my current every day pen at my desk so I thought I would inquire.

[FarmBoy]

Why are we removing the rings?

[vicpen123]

Because we can. WE are a curious bunch.

[usk15]

9 hours ago, FarmBoy said:

 The thread rings on those two sections are not quite the same.  Close enough but not exact.

 

 

 

So, if a had a plastic ring with gold band, I cannot replace it with a sliver ring? Silver like the one in the OP post?

[gregglee]

13 hours ago, vicpen123 said:

Would it be smarter to remove the nib and feed to allow for a better grip on the ring?

 

A 75 is my current every day pen at my desk so I thought I would inquire.

The sections I was trying by hand had no nib attached.  On US made  sections the feed is inside the section, so does not interfere with the ring. 

=====================

I could save the feeds too I suppose, if they will come out.  But feeds don't seem to wear like the barrel threads.        

[gregglee]

12 hours ago, FarmBoy said:

Why are we removing the rings?

The sections have worn out barrel threads but the rings are in good shape.  I want to be able to remove the good rings to be able to replace a damaged ring on a section that is otherwise in good shape.   That is, take parts of two damaged sections to make one good one.   

[FarmBoy]

15 hours ago, usk15 said:

 

So, if a had a plastic ring with gold band, I cannot replace it with a sliver ring? Silver like the one in the OP post?

Like shown you end up with a small gap.  This is due to the way the threads are terminated on the plastic ring vs the metal ring section.  It isn't a big deal and you could make it look correct.  I'm just pointing out that the sections are slightly different.

[oblique]

On 2/12/2021 at 4:46 AM, FarmBoy said:

Like shown you end up with a small gap.  This is due to the way the threads are terminated on the plastic ring vs the metal ring section.  It isn't a big deal and you could make it look correct.  I'm just pointing out that the sections are slightly different.

I can confirm this. There will be a tiny gap -  probably only noticeable to the initiated perfectionist anyway. I stopped caring about it fairly soon. 

[Ferocity]

1mine just unscrews like a light bulb from the plastic section... and then all you're left with is a plastic section with male threads and a metal washer with female threads on the inside. 

it comes right off

(but I cleaned the heck out of my pen)

ALSO; I couldn't find a date code 🤷🏻‍♂️

I'm sure that would have helped so instead I've included the tassies for that.

good luck ~!

 

[gregglee]

Results.  I'm a bit slow to report.   

I did succeed in removing four different bands.  Took varying level of effort. 

 

I didn't use a gripping tool since even if padded it could distort the ring.  

I found that nitrile gloves provided enough friction to grip both section and ring by hand. 

 

1.   Soak in water.  Got one off by applying twist back and forth until it eventually began to move little.  The travel slowly got larger.  Eventually friction reduced enough to screw it off but still stiff.   It didn't free up completely until the last revolution. 

 

2.  Soak in Goulet pen flush (ingredients distilled water, ammonium hydroxide, surfactants)  Got one more off using same technique as 1. 

 

3.  Heat the ring with a heat gun, trying to keep heat only on the ring.  Theory is metal expands with temperature more than plastic does.  Use heat to expand the ring just enough to loosen from section.  That got the last two.  Using low setting I heated the ring for increasingly longer times.  Results with increasing time were tight, tight, tight,...,completely loose.  No transition step.  Heat time was about 45 seconds but that was determined by my gun temp and distance.  At the point of loose the ring felt definitely hot through my nitrile glove.  I was motivated to set them down quickly.  But did not burn.  No observed effect on the plastic.           

 

[oblique]

The heat probably just softened the glue, not changed the size of the metal ring, but anyway, good job if you didn't ruin the section in the heating process!

[Ferocity]

+1
Great Job Man ~!

[gregglee]

Anything left on the ring threads seemed to be ink, not glue.  Almost all came off   with a cotton swab with water or Goulet solution. 

 

I didn't try cleaning the section threads for the ring, since the sections were scrap anyway.