What is on your bench?

[VacNut]

Yes, if you have the parts by all means the speed line filler should be replaced, as it is more valuable than a lockdown. (No questions asked). A quality lockdown filler with a diaphragm is probably about $30-$35, without postage. Is it worthwhile to buy a lockdown filler to replace the speed line?  That is up to the owner for a pen less than $100.

 

I would think that a lockdown filler puts the diaphragm in about the same amount of tension as a speed line filler. 
Isn’t pushing a lockdown filler down the last time and twisting  it in place akin to the same force on the diaphragm?
 

There is no question the end cap will have more force on the threads, but it doesn’t sound like this is a very common issue, given the multitude of issues that affect a vacumatic.

[LoveBigPensAndCannotLie]

This was mostly a theoretical question, the pen I posted a few pages ago has an intact lockdown filler that is correct for the pen. I was just curious if it would work.

 

17 minutes ago, VacNut said:

I would think that a lockdown filler puts the diaphragm in about the same amount of tension as a speed line filler. 
Isn’t pushing a lockdown filler down the last time and twisting  it in place akin to the same force on the diaphragm?

 

I am curious about this as well. I also thought the diaphragm would be under the same exact amount of stress whether it's a lockdown filler that is screwed down or a speedline filler that is held down in place. Functionally it's the same thing.

 

And another thought about this, do diaphragms used in lockdown fillers have a shorter lifespan than the ones in speedline and plastic fillers? I would think that since the diaphragm is extended 100% of the time, that would compromise the structural integrity of the rubber quicker.

 

[es9]

2 hours ago, VacNut said:

A quality lockdown filler with a diaphragm is probably about $30-$35, without postage.

I’d say the market price these days is closer to $50. 

[FarmBoy]

Properly cut and installed the diaphragm is not under tension in a lockdown filler (or any other filler for that matter).

[LoveBigPensAndCannotLie]

Is there a good chemical solution for cleaning off silver tarnish? I recently got my hands on my first Parker 75 and it is so tarnished even Simichrome isn't doing the trick. Been polishing this pen for like 30 minutes but there is an area of particularly bad oxidation that will not come off.

 

For the life of me I can't understand the obsession with the use of silver as an ornamental metal. When it's clean, it just looks like stainless steel or chrome. When it's dirty, it looks like (bleep). 

[gweimer1]

44 minutes ago, LoveBigPensAndCannotLie said:

Is there a good chemical solution for cleaning off silver tarnish? I recently got my hands on my first Parker 75 and it is so tarnished even Simichrome isn't doing the trick. Been polishing this pen for like 30 minutes but there is an area of particularly bad oxidation that will not come off.

 

For the life of me I can't understand the obsession with the use of silver as an ornamental metal. When it's clean, it just looks like stainless steel or chrome. When it's dirty, it looks like (bleep). 

 

I use Wenol.

 

[LoveBigPensAndCannotLie]

My impression is that Wenol and Simichrome are about similar levels of abrasiveness and effectiveness for this type of thing. It's not working for the really heavy areas of oxidation. I would leave it alone but it is not even, there is a stark line near the bottom of the pen where it is more oxidized, I guess posting the pen kept the very tip of it relatively clean.

[es9]

I just finished restoring the filling system on a small sheaffer vacuum filler—new viton o-ring secured in with a styrene closure washer, new head gasket of the proper material/dimensions, and the section is sealed with rosin-based thread sealant. It takes water well, but some comes out the back when I flush it. No evidence of a leak. 
 

I’ve done a few of these pens and I’ve never had this happen before. Any ideas? 

[LoveBigPensAndCannotLie]

I think I need a break from this hobby. Every new pen I get is a new frustration rather than a source of enjoyment. I feel like I'm buying and restoring pens out of inertia rather than any real fun. I hate most of the pens I come across.

 

Got this polished up, the pen doesn't close flush with the clip on the body. Unhappy memories of all the Parker 51 vacs that aren't flush. After a bit of investigating, I figure out that it's because the clutch is missing one of its fingers. Pen also has a rather large dent that wasn't on the listing pictures.

 

Pen also writes horribly, tines are too tight and and the tipping is a shapeless sphere like they forgot to actually shape the tipping after attaching it. Is this the "FAMOUS" Parker 75? Writes worse than any Parker 51 I've used. I guess I shouldn't expect more from a pen from the "dark ages" of fountain pens.

[lobster]

8 hours ago, es9 said:

I just finished restoring the filling system on a small sheaffer vacuum filler—new viton o-ring secured in with a styrene closure washer, new head gasket of the proper material/dimensions, and the section is sealed with rosin-based thread sealant. It takes water well, but some comes out the back when I flush it. No evidence of a leak. 
 

I’ve done a few of these pens and I’ve never had this happen before. Any ideas? 

 

Is the plunger rod damaged?
Maybe some silicon grease on it would help?

I can't see that it could be anything else than a leak between the rod and the o-ring.

[es9]

2 hours ago, lobster said:

 

Is the plunger rod damaged?
Maybe some silicon grease on it would help?

I can't see that it could be anything else than a leak between the rod and the o-ring.

Rod is not damaged and I applied plenty of grease. I actually dissembled and applied extra grease around the o-ring. But the grease only lubricates; the o-ring itself is what seals. At this point, my working theory is that I somehow damaged the o-ring… though I’m really not sure how. 

[VacNut]

12 hours ago, LoveBigPensAndCannotLie said:

I think I need a break from this hobby. Every new pen I get is a new frustration rather than a source of enjoyment. I feel like I'm buying and restoring pens out of inertia rather than any real fun. I hate most of the pens I come across.

 

Got this polished up, the pen doesn't close flush with the clip on the body. Unhappy memories of all the Parker 51 vacs that aren't flush. After a bit of investigating, I figure out that it's because the clutch is missing one of its fingers. Pen also has a rather large dent that wasn't on the listing pictures.

 

Pen also writes horribly, tines are too tight and and the tipping is a shapeless sphere like they forgot to actually shape the tipping after attaching it. Is this the "FAMOUS" Parker 75? Writes worse than any Parker 51 I've used. I guess I shouldn't expect more from a pen from the "dark ages" of fountain pens.

There is inherent risk in buying an unrestored pen. The flaws that you noted may be the reason for the lowered cost.

Unless there is damage, all of the Parker pens you mentioned should  work the same as the day they were originally sold. Please note that not all pens are worthy of restoration. Some have to be sacrificed for the betterment of other pens.

 

A break from the hobby is always good.

[VacNut]

Three Parker 51s this time. The pens were sitting on my to do bins. Two of the pens were bought as parts pens with a healthy amount of hope. The 1st Year Pen is just plain luck.

 

The Buckskin 51 was purchased with the ink stains on the hood and end cap. At worst the pen would be a parts pen. You can never predict the outcome of ink stains, but you have to be hopeful. The ink has seeped into the surface fissures of the hood and the end cap. The stains could not be cleaned with Rapideze or the ultrasonic soak. SOMI chrome only made minor improvements. I had to remove the stains with micro mesh sanding/polishing. I started with the 2000 grit and worked down to the 10000. I was pleasantly surprised that the ink stains were only superficial. It turned out nicely. I left the cosmetic scratches on the pen to avoid “over-working” the finish. 
The Yellowstone 51 didn’t have the same results as the Buckskin. The ink originated from the pen interior and has fully penetrated the hood and barrel. The staining at the filler is common. The stains are permanent. Good daily user.

 

The First Year 51 is a lucky buy. I bought the set for the price of a double jewel 51. The nib has a smooth stub nib. I cannot tell if it is original, but it is an excellent writer, like melted butter on the page. The aluminum jewels and end cap imprints are excellent. The hood is slightly transparent which is due to age rather than intent.

 

After my not-soon-to-be-forgotten fiasco, I started taping and dry-heating all filler removals. It doesn’t hurt the pens, just added precaution.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[lobster]

6 hours ago, es9 said:

Rod is not damaged and I applied plenty of grease. I actually dissembled and applied extra grease around the o-ring. But the grease only lubricates; the o-ring itself is what seals. At this point, my working theory is that I somehow damaged the o-ring… though I’m really not sure how. 

 

Yeah, of course. My bad. It should seal without any grease.

I always feel like it will damage the seal when I push the rod through it, but so far it hasn't. I have only done four so far though. 

[LoveBigPensAndCannotLie]

I picked up a Sheaffer Admiral Snorkel to restore. It's not in the best shape (cap has severe cracks where the clip is attached) and I wanted to take a break but I saw it had a somewhat flexible stub nib which is my first. I don't think these are very common.

 

Disassembly is going okay so far. Had a petrified sac which made getting the plug out a pain. I have been lucky in that all but the first Snorkel I restored had pliable sacs and those are generally not too tough to remove the sac plug. This one was even more stubborn than the first. I ended up pulling the snorkel tube out (happened with the first one too) but couldn't find a proper size dowel to push the plug out from the other end. I ended up taking a bamboo skewer and shaving it down by hand and then sanding off the rough edges to get it to fit but it worked.

 

I don't have a proper size sac right now so I have to wait to reassemble it. Crossing my fingers because for Snorkels that's usually where my problems start, with the reassembly. 

 

On a side note, did Sheaffer design the clip for these poorly? I have come across a few of these "plastic" caps (the Saratoga and Statesman and others) that have severe cracks where the clip attaches, and from my experience even the undamaged ones are extremely stiff. I'm always afraid to use the clip on these in case it breaks.

[IThinkIHaveAProblem]

16 minutes ago, LoveBigPensAndCannotLie said:

I picked up a Sheaffer Admiral Snorkel to restore. It's not in the best shape (cap has severe cracks where the clip is attached) and I wanted to take a break but I saw it had a somewhat flexible stub nib which is my first. I don't think these are very common.

 

Disassembly is going okay so far. Had a petrified sac which made getting the plug out a pain. I have been lucky in that all but the first Snorkel I restored had pliable sacs and those are generally not too tough to remove the sac plug. This one was even more stubborn than the first. I ended up pulling the snorkel tube out (happened with the first one too) but couldn't find a proper size dowel to push the plug out from the other end. I ended up taking a bamboo skewer and shaving it down by hand and then sanding off the rough edges to get it to fit but it worked.

 

I don't have a proper size sac right now so I have to wait to reassemble it. Crossing my fingers because for Snorkels that's usually where my problems start, with the reassembly. 

 

On a side note, did Sheaffer design the clip for these poorly? I have come across a few of these "plastic" caps (the Saratoga and Statesman and others) that have severe cracks where the clip attaches, and from my experience even the undamaged ones are extremely stiff. I'm always afraid to use the clip on these in case it breaks.

The skewer is what I use to push out sac plugs too. Or a brass rod I’ve rounded. A little dry heat can help. 
 

it appears that yes the common place for these caps to fail is at the clip. You are not alone. 
 

are you replacing the seals?

 

good luck with reassembly. I have over a dozen prepped and waiting for me to order parts so I can reassemble them. Including a sage green… I really need to get around to ordering parts…

[LoveBigPensAndCannotLie]

30 minutes ago, IThinkIHaveAProblem said:

The skewer is what I use to push out sac plugs too. Or a brass rod I’ve rounded. A little dry heat can help. 
 

it appears that yes the common place for these caps to fail is at the clip. You are not alone. 
 

are you replacing the seals?

 

good luck with reassembly. I have over a dozen prepped and waiting for me to order parts so I can reassemble them. Including a sage green… I really need to get around to ordering parts…

 

Yup always do. The o-ring was dried out but the point seal was okay. I'll replace it anyway to be safe, better safe than sorry. Also it's probably the easiest part of the snorkel restoration process, everything else I have a lot less fun with.

[VacNut]

Just curious, what is more fun; the restoration process or the end result? 

[LoveBigPensAndCannotLie]

Probably the restoration process, I am very picky about nibs and don't like to write with most of the pens I restore. So the end result isn't all that great for me. It does feel kinda good with a more intermediate repair like a Snorkel or a Vacumatic when I see it fills properly as those take a tiny bit more skill. I can get a completely full fill on the silver laminate Parker Vac from a few pages ago in only like 4-5 pumps which is better than some of the ones I had "professionally" restored which I am really happy with.

 

I don't like nib work at all which is a problem. I can get a pen that doesn't write (like a severely bent nib) to write okay (as long as it has tipping, anyway) but I can't make a pen that writes okay with maybe a minor scratchiness (due to uneven tipping or misalignment with flexible nibs which I have trouble with) to write well which bothers me.

 

One of the reasons I like the Parker 51 that I put the wrong size sac in a few pages ago. All the external parts except the cap need to be replaced (the hood is chipped at the front and the back tip of the barrel was broken off at some point and reattached poorly - not by me) but it is a pretty nice writer and I'm keeping it inked up.

 

I will admit I like taking pens apart more than I like putting them together. But there's nothing better than something like getting an o-ring in on a Sheaffer touchdown/snorkel in less than a minute. Had that happen with a touchdown pen a few months ago, that was an amazing feeling. The o-ring on this snorkel took me like 5 minutes so not as good.

[es9]

3 hours ago, LoveBigPensAndCannotLie said:

I can get a pen that doesn't write (like a severely bent nib) to write okay (as long as it has tipping, anyway) but I can't make a pen that writes okay with maybe a minor scratchiness (due to uneven tipping or misalignment with flexible nibs which I have trouble with) to write well which bothers me.

Funny—my experience has been the opposite. Fixing really bad bends has proven really challenging for me. I find it really challenging to get the tines properly aligned again… there’s always a bulge or kink somewhere, and I’m really worried about work hardening or popping the tipping off. Resorting to sand paper can’t be the right move. 
 

That said, my smoothening game has really come a long way since I started all this. I have a pile of pens I’ve restored that I plan to sell at some point. But I’ve managed to get some of them so smooth that parting with them will be really hard.