Help With Japanese Eyedropper

[siamackz]

Hi, and thanks for considering helping me!

 

Im trying to restore a vintage Japanese eyedropper. The cork needs replacement. Ive looked online and in the Lawrence book but I cant really get clear answers to the following questions:

1. Does the turning knob unscrew from the end of the rod (like in a vac fil or Onoto)? This would allow me to remove the rod from the barrel..

2. Does the threaded part at the end of the barrel unscrew like a Parker vac filler unit does? Or is it like the packing unit of a Sheaffer vac fil that needs to be knocked out instead. I feel like its the former but I cant get the typical Parker vac tool on it because the the threaded filler unit part doesnt extend beyond the barrel like in a Parker.

Pics below:

Edited June 29, 2020 by siamackz

[hari317]

I hope eckiethump or Stan (peerless1now I guess) have an answer for you.

On danitrios I have worked on the ink shutoff Seal carrier can be removed from the rod.

 

Also shine a torch into the barrel from the section end, do you see a way to remove the packing unit?

[siamackz]

I hope eckiethump or Stan (peerless1now I guess) have an answer for you.

On danitrios I have worked on the ink shutoff Seal carrier can be removed from the rod.

 

Also shine a torch into the barrel from the section end, do you see a way to remove the packing unit?

Thanks for your suggestions! Are you saying that the top part of the ink shut off head on the rod can unscrew (like it does on a Sheaffer vac fil when changing the washer). In such a case then I could try unscrewing the head and pulling the rod out from the back end of the barrel.

 

I can see the packing unit inside and should be able to get it out with a pick or hand drill. But I need to get the rod out first, thats my step 1.

[hari317]

I understand this is a vintage pen that you are working on? It might be put together differently. On danitrio the shut off head is pressed on and held with a spot of glue. It might be totally different on your pen.

Reg the packing unit at the knob end of the barrel, the seal is underneath a retainer plate. Depending on how your pen is put together you may be able to unscrew that plate. Do you see any holes or flats for a tool there? In any case pls wait for Erics comments. He does these pens regularly from what I hear.

Best,

[Alex Howard]

I have a similar question. How do I remove the ink shutoff rod and how do I remove the threaded housing at the heel so the seal inside can be replaced? This is a vintage Pilot eyedropper.

 

pilot heel area.jpg

[siamackz]

Thanks Hari! No notches for tools. However, when I shine a light through the bottom of the translucent barrel I think I see threads on the inside ie I think the filler unit is screwed in with some shellac (just like the Parker vac). However, I have no way of gripping the filler unit as it doesnt extend out of the barrel like a Parker vac and instead it ends exactly where the barrel ends (as you can see from the pics).

Francis G suggested that many of these pens allow the turning knob to unscrew from the rod. I have tried with heat but no luck so I thought I should check here before applying more pressure.

[eckiethump]

If you are uk, 07977559 646, there are no easy ways to service these pens. Richard Binder, couldn't do it a number of year's ago,(though he stated on line?) that he could, and we all know what a narcissistic person he is

[siamackz]

If you are uk, 07977559 646, there are no easy ways to service these pens. Richard Binder, couldn't do it a number of year's ago,(though he stated on line?) that he could, and we all know what a narcissistic person he is

Thanks for sharing your contact details! Dropped you a line on WatsApp.

[siamackz]

Progress!

 

Francis Gs suggestion worked, yet again! The turning knob did come off the rod. But, it was a left hand thread!

 

Next, I managed to get the deteriorated cork out along with the washer that was holding it in place. Im not sure if that was the original packing or if it was restored.

 

I need to figure out where to get an O ring and washer to fit those dimensions. Pics below:

[hari317]

How was the packing unit attached to the barrel? You appear to have detached it from the barrel. Was it necessary to remove it from the barrel?

 

The part you call the washer, was that on the knob side of the packing unit or the opposite side?

 

You can fabricate the washer without a lathe.

 

To be clear I have labelled the part I am asking about.

 

Edited June 30, 2020 by hari317

[siamackz]

How was the packing unit attached to the barrel? You appear to have detached it from the barrel. Was it necessary to remove it from the barrel?

 

The part you call the washer, was that on the knob side of the packing unit or the opposite side?

 

You can fabricate the washer without a lathe.

 

To be clear I have labelled the part I am asking about.

 

Hi Hari,

 

The part you have labelled is not the packing unit, its the turning knob at the end of the rod.

The packing unit is still in the barrel and I dont find it necessary to remove.

 

It seems like I need to just do a typical vac fil type restoration.

 

How do make a washer - what material did you use and from where did you source it?

[hari317]

Is this part partially inserted into the celluloid knob? The knob Is celluloid like the rest of the Pen? Its still not clear to me.

 

Personally I would use ebonite to make this washer part. You can use the tail of a feeder from an Indian Ed and gradually file it down like you do a cork. The feeders are typically 6.35mm OD. Other option Might be a piece of fr4 laminate used for pcbs. You Hand drill the centre and then file down the od.

 

Finding a threaded joint for the knob was a lucky break. My tsuchidas are like that. But they are modern pens.

Best,

Edited June 30, 2020 by hari317

[siamackz]

Hi Hari,

 

If the washer is ebonite it wont be able to solvent weld against the barrel with acetone/MEK like we do in Sheaffer vac fil repairs. So, I think it might need to be made of styrene or some plastic that reacts well to acetone/MEK.

 

Yes, Im glad the turning knob came off the rod. But, I was surprised that it was left hand threaded. Disassembling pens that randomly have left hand threads in places is so tricky especially when you dont already know it or no one has already tried and warned you about it! I am glad I was gentle with pressure and used the rocking back and forth technique to try and break any shellac seal - thats what made me realise that the knob was dismantling but in the opposite direction.

 

Below is a pic that I hope clarifies the position of the cork and washer to you:

Edited July 1, 2020 by siamackz

[hari317]

There is atleast one older thread warning about a possible LH thread. The pens are all differently put together. https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/343946-restore-seal-on-banei-ban-ei-sakai-tsuchida-urushi-oversize-fp/

 

Thanks for the pic. So the knob was plain ebonite.

 

Given the location of the washer, the washer can be removed without touching the knob end. Old Cork pieces Removed and new cork slid through the shaft head whenever possible. Least invasive.

 

Original washers are ebonite and threaded in on some pens. Dont know about your one.

 

I personally wont go the Mek melt washer route. Its ok for sheaffer where there is no other reasonable way. But let us know how it goes. Best,

[siamackz]

There is atleast one older thread warning about a possible LH thread. The pens are all differently put together. https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/343946-restore-seal-on-banei-ban-ei-sakai-tsuchida-urushi-oversize-fp/

 

Thanks for the pic. So the knob was plain ebonite.

 

Given the location of the washer, the washer can be removed without touching the knob end. Old Cork pieces Removed and new cork slid through the shaft head whenever possible. Least invasive.

 

Original washers are ebonite and threaded in on some pens. Dont know about your one.

 

I personally wont go the Mek melt washer route. Its ok for sheaffer where there is no other reasonable way. But let us know how it goes. Best,

Correct, the knob is plain ebonite. And correct, I dont intend on removing the threaded packing unit but instead will slide the cork through the section end of the barrel. But I need something to hold the cork in place. If not MEK then how would you do it?

 

Thanks for your suggestions.

[hari317]

Hi I would try what I wrote at 2343 yesterday. Make a washer. Make it somewhat longer. Cut two slots in it Using a hacksaw for future removal. Slightly taper it on the od to wedge it in.

 

What seal Material are you planning to use? Cork should Fit nicely and not experience much axial force When the shaft Moves as the user screws and unscrews the knob. Plunger filler type Large quick movement is not expected with a shutoff valve Ed. Hope this is helpful.

[siamackz]

I made a cork seal but I have now learned that the barrel is slightly tapered towards the section and so it is forcing me to make a cork seal thats difficult to get through the section end of the barrel and if it gets through then its too loose right after it clears the section thread area. I think Ill need to remove the filler unit and insert the seal through that end. Ill need to figure out what tool will help me do that so I dont damage the threads

[siamackz]

Done A terribly shot and produced video will be shared soon showing the entire process

 

[markiv]

Am glad you figured out the right way to seal it. Certain this will be a good reference in future.

[hari317]

Very interesting. Congratulations on the repair.