Small Drawer Cabinet For Fountain Pens

[Thymen]

Hi there;

 

did not want to hijack Michael's thread 'making a pen case'...

 

Here is a small mahogany drawer cabinet I made for my fountain pens. It is almost ready, just the inserts still to be made. Michael showed the use of hollow mouldings for these, together with a lining of suede. I am going to use his idea (thanks Michael!).

 

However, I have some questions, perhaps anyone can answer?

 

- I finished the cabinet with Tung oil; would this have any effect on the pens?

- what glue to use for glueing the suede on the moulding?

 

Last thing I want is my pens to go bad because of the products I used for finishing/glueing....

 

Thymen

 

[Parker51]

I suggest a water based nontoxic glue. It will hold well enough, will not contain any acids or petroleum distillates which might off vent.

One thing, the suede, some leathers are dyed with dyes which can harm some pens.

[my63]

Hi Thymen that is a fine box I hope those pictures are you kitchen and not your workshop.

As far is finish is concerned I have used tongue oil on the outside of pen boxes over the years without issue although not on the inside of the box.

Parker51 is correct I use PVA glue for attaching suede to my inserts. I find suede very easy to work with it is super flexible but more importantly it does not allow the glue to soak through, other materials with an open weave will absorb glue and as it dries the material will harden which may scratch pens.

The issue of suede and leather causing damage to metal has been around for many years I am not going to try to explain it here but I can tell you what I do to avoid issues. I buy my suede and leather from a reputable tannery who can provide all of the data sheets required by E U law.

I also use only clothing quality suede which I buy from G H leathers also known as leathermerchants online they are very nice people and very helpful. I am pretty sure they ship world wide but if you have issues you can have it shipped to me and I will ship it to you.

http://www.leathermerchants.com/

A word of caution if I may if you are planning on using Kydex or HIPS then do not allow it to get too hot 450 degrees is the max I use.

I hope this helps.

[Thymen]

I hope those pictures are you kitchen and not your workshop.

 

ehm.. my garage where I do all my 'woodworking'..

 

Thanks for the advice about the suede; I an aware that vegetable tanned leather is better for fountain pens than chemically tanned. I am just not sure where to get it, and ordering from the UK may be more difficult after today... Besides, it is quite expensive, even in small pieces.

 

What about felt? Easier to come by, and thick enough to not have glue come through?

 

I am not in a hurry to finish this project, plenty time to look around..

[my63]

Your workshop is way cleaner than mine

I would estimate the suede to line your drawers would cost less than £30.

I ship a lot from the UK and there will be no changes until December 2020 at the earliest so I don't think you will have any issues getting it from GH leathers. If you have trouble getting suede if it is a colour I keep I would sell you what you need.

I am not a fan of felt but if you like it, It will work just be careful with the glue felt soaks up glue easily.

[Thymen]

I bought some felt, in 1, 2 and 3 mm thickness from a local shop. Going to try that on another box first.

 

That shop did have 'suede', but I am sure it was not natural suede...

 

Looking on the internet now for videos of how to apply felt to drawers etc. Some use hide glue, but I do not have that available at the moment.

[my63]

I dont use felt anymore when I did use it I used PVA glue to fix it the trick is to apply the glue and when it starts to dry apply the felt this stops the felt absorbing the glue.

Hide glue is a little more tricky to use the real stuff is used hot and is kept in a double boiler which is basically a tin can in a pan of water glue crystals are added to the tin and melted once melted it is good to go. Tite bond make some ina bottle that can be used cold but I have never used it.

Regarding suede if it is real it is animal shaped if it is on a roll it is synthetic Alcantara is a synthetic suede used in the auto industry it is also the most expensive. I am using synthetic suede for my pen tray project it is very easy to use.

 

Hope this helps.

[Thymen]

ah, I see...

 

The shop I bought the felt also did have this synthetic suede, but no real leather. I'll go there tomorrow after work and get a small piece of if for trying.

 

This weekend I lined a box I made with felt; tried spray-on glue, did not work; tried (diluted) Titebond standard wood glue, did not work. I then used Titebond Instant Bond with accelerator, that worked fine. But too expensive for glueing larger surfaces, applied it only at the edges and a dab in the middle. I'll get some textile glue tomorrow and try that.

 

I also ordered a hot glue gun, always wanted one. Comes in handy for gluing the small strips of wood under the felt/suede. And I saw on Youtube how some also used it for adhering felt to a box.

 

Lots of things to try out....

[my63]

Felt is difficult to glue as it is made up from lots of small fibres Tite bond is good not sure why you would dilute it ? PVA of any type is usually my go to. If i let it dry too much a little heat from a hair dryer or low power on a heat gun would be ok.

You could also try a latex glue copydex is a popular brand in the UK.

I like to have a thin layer of glue but find hot glue guns will not give me that avoiding lumps is very difficult of course they do have their uses Tite bond and a clamp is best for wood.

[Thymen]

I ended up using corrugated pvc from the home depot. It has a pitch of 32 mm, a height of 9 mm and it is cheap. It's a bit of a pain to cut it without cracking, especially because it is winter and a bit cooler in my shed. But warming it up in front of the heater fixed most of that.

 

I then glued felt on it by putting a thin bead of hot glue in each valley, and then quickly press it with a round stick of the proper diameter.

 

It's looks ok, but it is not to my liking. PVC in a wooden box? Nah...But because it is removable, I'll use it for the time being, and in due time make something more durable.

[my63]

There are not many people who would have a go at making pen trays I would love to see pictures. I share your pain with the plastic I use a Japanese hand saw called a Dozuki with a 25 tpi blade. This will cut most of the plastics and fine wood cutting I need.

I always thought the router was the way to go for making trays now I have spent a small fortune on the router and attachments I have found the scotia moulding trimmed to size on the bandsaw is the best method. I will continue making the moulded plastic inserts for the boxes where weight is an issue.

I dont normally do this but if you would like me to make some or part of the inserts for you drop me a message.

[Thymen]

I just smoothened all the edges of the trays, and waxed them. They are a bit smelly, so I put them aside to air out for a few days. I'll make some pictures or video after everything has been put together again and filled with pens.

 

I thought about making the inserts out of wood, with grooves cut on my router table. But I do not have the proper bit, don't want to spend money on it. As far as quarter hollow moulding strips are concerned, it would take several standard lengths for three trays; the corrugated PVC is much cheaper and has the shape and pitch I wanted. Also, home depot moulding is of poor quality wood.

 

As usual, the first time one makes something, is mostly for learning. I never applied felt or suede before, but now I more or less know what does and does't work...

Edited February 9, 2020 by Thymen

[azbobcat]

OK This looks like the place to ask this question: For the last 4 years I have stored my FP in a zippered case that holds 20 pens, with the pens being help in place by an elastic band. For the most part most of the true Pen Chests cost a small fortune -- hundreds of dollars for a chest that will hold 10 pens -- MY collection numbers 17. This morning I was chasing rabbits and somehow ended up chasing pen chests. I found one that ranged from $80 - $101, and then I found the exact same case for $65.89 at Overstock. It holds 19 pens -- perfect!! I jumped on it!! The only thing I probably will NOT like is that the "pen slots" -- "coves" (?!? -- the curved places which holds the pens) are uncovered WOOD. I found two articles -- by the same fellow actually -- in one he uses BLACK VELVET cloth which he covers the "coves" (?) by first spraying on some type of cloth adhesive which he then lays the velvet in. In the second one he uses self adhesive back felt, which you peel and stick. I found several articles where for jewelry boxes they used velvet "flocking" that you puff into place using something a pump air can, which sounds very messy.

 

If any of you have added felt/velvet/etc. to a pen case to cover the bare wood I have a few questions I hope some one can answer.

 

1) Which is better for a pen case: Velvet or Felt?

 

2) Which COLOR do you use: He used BLACK for both his projects. My zippered case also uses BLACK Velvet in it. Though many of the commercial Pen Chest I see for sale use White, Cream, or some other color. Would a DARK GREEN or DEEP WINE RED be nicer for pen presentation, or should I stay with BLACK?

 

3) I have Parkinson's Disease and have troubles with my hands. Which is EASIER to use: The SPRAY ADHESIVE then add the velvet or felt onto the adhesive; or would the PEEL and STICK the Velvet or Felt be EASIER to use? I have checked I can get both Velvet and Felt in the PEEL and STICK variety. Would there be an inherent advantage or disadvantage of one method over the other?!?

 

4) Is there a maximum specific THICKNESS of cloth I should be looking at?

 

My biggest fear of the Peel and Stick method is that once I "peel" the backing off and "stick" it down I'll have no means to go back fix minor imperfections in my work; or -- worse -- in trying to peel the backing off one piece will find itself stuck to the other -- think packing tape -- how many times has that happened to you?? You end up junking the piece and star again.

 

Any advice you could provide me with would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks.

Edited February 14, 2020 by azbobcat

[my63]

Hopefully I can give you some of the answers to your questions.

I also have issues with my hands having complex regional pain syndrome on my right side and since November last year I have been working with with torn ligaments in my left thumb after dislocating it.

If you use felt, velvet,baise or any material of this type there is a risk of the glue soaking through the cloth my preference is suede which does not have these issues.

I, like you need time with the glue and have developed my own way of creating that time, Spray glue is pretty much instant contact adhesive PVA is more forgiving but is highly likely to show through the material.

 

2019-12-19_07-47-56 by my0771, on Flickr

 

After making the insert or pen tray I lightly dampened a piece of card and using dowels formed this into the insert as you can see.

Then I used spray adhesive to fix the suede to the card wrapping it around a dowel and using another dowel to push it into the slots.

 

2019-10-07_10-34-45 by my0771, on Flickr

 

Now the material is attached to the card I leave it to dry overnight. Then it is quite easy to attach the card to the wood using any glue usually PVA for me.

 

I can't answer your question about colour as I am hopeless with colours, Felt or velvet not really my thing I find suede so much easier to use and actually far more forgiving. Synthetic suedes are also available but dont look at Alcantara as it is very expensive.

 

2019-10-07_10-34-55 by my0771, on Flickr

 

I hope this helps we need pictures.

[Thymen]

I have used corrugated PVC and felt with hot-glue. But when I find some suede, I'll use that, with appropriate wooden tray.

 

see https://youtu.be/XX6rXs45MdY

 

(oops... I added something like Premiere... will retry uploading)

 

If you can get self-adhesive felt..great! No glue peek-through issues! Felt is actually quite nice, I used a muted red colour. Looks great.

 

Applying sticky felt is the same as applying other self-adhesive materials I guess. Do not peel off all at once, just a small band at the edge. Position that on the edge of the tray, then gradually peel off further, keeping it a little bit of tension and rub the part of felt with just exposed glue against the tray.

 

Make sure you do not peel off the glue layer, see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aeKZDCObmM8

Edited February 15, 2020 by Thymen

[nigelg]

I've used the clear vacuum-formed plastic display tray - the sort you find holding the packets of fish fingers in the supermarket chiller cabinet. More than adequate until you can find the real thing.

Like this:

 

 

 

 

[azbobcat]

Hopefully I can give you some of the answers to your questions.

I also have issues with my hands having complex regional pain syndrome on my right side and since November last year I have been working with with torn ligaments in my left thumb after dislocating it.

If you use felt, velvet,baise or any material of this type there is a risk of the glue soaking through the cloth my preference is suede which does not have these issues.

I, like you need time with the glue and have developed my own way of creating that time, Spray glue is pretty much instant contact adhesive PVA is more forgiving but is highly likely to show through the material.

 

2019-12-19_07-47-56 by my0771, on Flickr

 

After making the insert or pen tray I lightly dampened a piece of card and using dowels formed this into the insert as you can see.

Then I used spray adhesive to fix the suede to the card wrapping it around a dowel and using another dowel to push it into the slots.

 

2019-10-07_10-34-45 by my0771, on Flickr

 

Now the material is attached to the card I leave it to dry overnight. Then it is quite easy to attach the card to the wood using any glue usually PVA for me.

 

I can't answer your question about colour as I am hopeless with colours, Felt or velvet not really my thing I find suede so much easier to use and actually far more forgiving. Synthetic suedes are also available but dont look at Alcantara as it is very expensive.

 

2019-10-07_10-34-55 by my0771, on Flickr

 

I hope this helps we need pictures.

 

 

OK here is what is coming and should be here soon:

 

https://www.overstock.com/Office-Supplies/Walnut-Wood-19-pen-Box/11936699/product.html

 

It will hold 19 pens. As you can see the pen slots/coves/whatever-they-are-called are WOOD and I would like to cover then with something be it velvet, felt, or suede. I am assuming that the pen slots/coves/whatever-they-are-called can be simply lifted out and the wood simply covered, and then simply laid back in place.... at least that is the PLAN. With my luck the makes glued those suckers down and which point I'll have to come up with a "Plan B".

 

I went to see to see if I can find any suede, but real suede costs a lot and I found some faux suede. Do you use the leather side up, or the soft side up?!? I will assume you use the soft side up, YES?!?

I really don't want to use felt, so I decided it would be velvet until you mentioned suede. I can pick up some synthetic suede on the cheap, but is the synthetic going to work for this project or would velvet be better? ANYTHING will be better than bare wood... including felt, but that would be my last choice.

 

No this is NOT going to be anyway near as nice as as the true craftsmanship you guys do, but rather this is to take something that I picked up on the cheap that would normally have been way out of what I could afford, and make into something that will be both fairly attractive and be a LOT better than my zip up case. While it does the job, but removing or replacing back a pen into the case, becomes a chore because the pen has to go under those two elastic bands that hold the pen in place.

 

My63 when you say, "After making the insert or pen tray I lightly dampened a piece of card and using dowels formed this into the insert as you can see.

 

"Then I used spray adhesive to fix the suede to the card wrapping it around a dowel and using another dowel to push it into the slots."

 

The above means nothing to me. Unless you mean you spray either the back of the suede and the wooded form and then use a dowel to push the suede down into the wooden form which would make some kind of sense...

 

Truly wish you had made a YouTube video of this process. I am trying to stay away as much as possible from using anything that is "Peel-and-Stick". I am leaning towards the spray adhesive method. The idea of using wooded dowels sounds like a brilliant idea. Do you use one dowel per slot? I spray one slots/coves/whatever-they-are-called, work the suede or velvet into place, spray the second slots/coves/whatever-they-are-called, etc., and repeat, or do you spray the wood one time and then the whole thing at once?!? On average how long would it take you to do a 10 pen inset?!?

 

I assume that the RED material you show is suede. Do you know what the EXACT color is called?? I like !!!

[my63]

Sorry no videos from me yet I difficulties with my right hand so improvise with clamps and pieces of wood which would confuse watchers.

The first picture shows the card I have formed into the slots using dowels the card acts as a backer for the material allowing me to use spray adhesive to fix the material. I then use PVA glue to fix the card to the wood, the card also helps to even out imperfections in the wood.

When I am fitting the suede to the card I roll the suede around one long dowel so I can hold it, I spray the whole card but you can do half at a time if you need to just make sure you don't get any on the front of the suede. I use a spring clip to hold one of the edges the second piece of dowel is used like a roller to push the suede into place, If the card was moulded wet even after rolling with the dowel it will hold the shape of the pen slots.

If you look closely at the picture of the box you have ordered there appears to be a small gap in the middle I would think the pen tray is in 2 pieces likely held in place with glue if you are lucky it will be double sided tape.

The suede I use is red pig suede from a UK tannery I don't think it is expensive compared to other material it is cheaper than Alcantara.

I watch a lot of car restoration shows from the US and am always surprised to see what they call suede comes on a roll. In the UK suede is sold by the skin I am fortunate that I can use smaller pieces so I can minimise my waste.

Paper is cheap so make templates it will take more than you think.

If you cant find the suede you want I will sell you what you need for your trays.

If my method seems complex and time consuming that is because it is I could stick the suede directly to the wood however the suede would sink into the joints of the wood and also the grain.

Let me know id I have missed anything.

[azbobcat]

Sorry no videos from me yet I difficulties with my right hand so improvise with clamps and pieces of wood which would confuse watchers.

The first picture shows the card I have formed into the slots using dowels the card acts as a backer for the material allowing me to use spray adhesive to fix the material. I then use PVA glue to fix the card to the wood, the card also helps to even out imperfections in the wood.

When I am fitting the suede to the card I roll the suede around one long dowel so I can hold it, I spray the whole card but you can do half at a time if you need to just make sure you don't get any on the front of the suede. I use a spring clip to hold one of the edges the second piece of dowel is used like a roller to push the suede into place, If the card was moulded wet even after rolling with the dowel it will hold the shape of the pen slots.

If you look closely at the picture of the box you have ordered there appears to be a small gap in the middle I would think the pen tray is in 2 pieces likely held in place with glue if you are lucky it will be double sided tape.

The suede I use is red pig suede from a UK tannery I don't think it is expensive compared to other material it is cheaper than Alcantara.

I watch a lot of car restoration shows from the US and am always surprised to see what they call suede comes on a roll. In the UK suede is sold by the skin I am fortunate that I can use smaller pieces so I can minimise my waste.

Paper is cheap so make templates it will take more than you think.

If you cant find the suede you want I will sell you what you need for your trays.

If my method seems complex and time consuming that is because it is I could stick the suede directly to the wood however the suede would sink into the joints of the wood and also the grain.

Let me know id I have missed anything.

 

I went to your website! What can I say but WOW!!! I assume when you say "Card" you are talking about the Black stuff, and you stick the suede to the Black Card?!?

 

You are way, WAY more advanced than I am. Holy, Molly do you do fantastic work! IF the Black stuff is the "Card" where do you get it and what is is called?!?

 

The little chest is due to arrive next week or early the following week at which point I'll get a very good Idea what I'm looking at. I found some "synthetic" suede -- whatever that is -- for about $6.00 (U.S.) a yard at a fabric store that should not be too far from where I live.

 

While I am waiting for the small chest to arrive I'll probably pay the shop a visit to check on both the velvet and the suede, so I have some idea what I'm looking at.

 

My pen "collection" would be an embarrassment to most true pen collectors -- my most "expensive" pen is an Edison Nouveau Premiere which cost me $169 -- which was a bloody fortune to me. Most of my pens are old Parker 45's, and Waterman Laurents with a Waterman Expert, with a pair of Conklin Duragraphs thrown in. They are nice pens that I try to take care of -- any of them are far, far better -- and cost a hell of a lot more -- than those CHEAP ubiquitous BIC! ball points which are everywhere, which I have troubles trying to control. A lot depends upon where I am in my drug cycle. When it is "wearing on" my writing starts clearing up; when it is "wearing off" it gets worse. A fountain pen buys me another 30 minutes between the point where you can still read my writing and where you no longer can.

 

Again THANK YOU for your advice I did not realize you were a professional that does this stuff for a living. The PURPLE DRAWERS were out of this world! Like I said these might be rather cheap pens, but that said I really don't want to store them on RAW WOOD. I'll keep you posted as to when that small chest comes in. I'd be very curious to find out the name of the stuff that you call a "card" and where it can be purchased.

[my63]

Thanks for the compliments I am not a professional and certainly dont make a living from it. I had a life changing accident some years ago this led to the loss of a nerve and development of CRPS this is part of my physical therapy, I had almost no use of my right hand for many years and have slowly got some movement back I bought an old Parker Duofold fountain pen many years ago to help me to learn to write again.

The older part of my collection is mainly Parker Victory Duofold and 51's with the odd 61's in there too.

I get the black card it is quite light weight, I think they call is sugar paper or construction paper from a local art store it is over 5,000 miles from you so I wont give the name.

My advice would be to get samples of the material and try sticking it to whatever card you can get. It is how the glue shows through the card you are looking for. if the glue soaks through it will dry as hard as the wood below.

The sugar paper will also give you a nice edge to fold the material over.

The purple drawers were made exactly this way wood then sugar paper then suede.

To me there is no point having knowledge and keeping it to yourself I would love to see your progress.