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New: Platinum Curidas (Capless Type) Fountain Pen


Olya

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This follow up rocks. Thanks for the time and effort. Be well!

 

Thanks! You too!

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Well, well well...

 

I wrote with both the Curidas and Decimo this evening and took video of it. The Decimo still does not write at all. With a normal ink (Yamabudo), it usually gives me about a week before it freezes up on me. The "Dude" pigment ink has done it in.

 

The Curidas wrote like a breeze. No hard start. Nice and juicy. Here is the time frame:

 

I inked it up with "Dude" on Wednesday night and it wrote fine. Then Thursday morning, it hard started (that was on the video). I continued to write with it till Friday night with no problems. Then it sat for 2 days and Sunday night--wrote just fine. Then I let it set for 2 more days and Tuesday night it wrote fine again.

 

I will ink it up with Tsukiyo tomorrow. I think I will post an update at the end of my video on Friday night. I'm thinking, now, that there is some validity to Platinum's claim that it has extended "no dry out" time. Wether or not it can hold out for 6 months can only be determined 6 months from now hahaha!

 

 

Try running the unit of the decimo through a cheap $30 ultrasonic jewelry cleaner in a 1:5 ratio of ammonia/hot water.

 

I have noticed that my decimo and VP are quite sensitive to inks. Good flowing or non ultra saturated inks are required for them seems to prevent problems. Mine both hate organics studio nitrogen, but with something like pelikan 4001 or nemosine aeolus palus red, it has no problem

Selling a boatload of restored, fairly rare, vintage Japanese gold nib pens, click here to see (more added as I finish restoring them)

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> 1:5 ratio of ammonia/hot water.

 

ammonia means aqueous ammonia, I guess - what is the concentration of your ammonia?

hot water will chase out a lot of the ammonia, so you are actually reducing the percentage compared to using cold water.

 

If you start with 28% aqueous ammonia, and dilute it with 5 parts hot water, you will probably have a 3-4% ammonia solution at the end.

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Try running the unit of the decimo through a cheap $30 ultrasonic jewelry cleaner in a 1:5 ratio of ammonia/hot water.

 

I have noticed that my decimo and VP are quite sensitive to inks. Good flowing or non ultra saturated inks are required for them seems to prevent problems. Mine both hate organics studio nitrogen, but with something like pelikan 4001 or nemosine aeolus palus red, it has no problem

 

Hm my two seem okay with a lot of inks, including saturated ones. The main thing to prevent nib dry-out and hard starts for mine is how well the section is cleaned, how well the converter or cartridge are seated, and how tightly the pen is screwed together after cleaning and refilling. Otherwise I haven't had any flow issues--only in the cases when there are temporary hard starts if ink dries a bit on the nib overnight, but a swipe with a filled kuretake water brush gets it going again until I set it down.

“I admit it, I'm surprised that fountain pens are a hobby. ... it's a bit like stumbling into a fork convention - when you've used a fork all your life.” 

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Try running the unit of the decimo through a cheap $30 ultrasonic jewelry cleaner in a 1:5 ratio of ammonia/hot water.

 

I have noticed that my decimo and VP are quite sensitive to inks. Good flowing or non ultra saturated inks are required for them seems to prevent problems. Mine both hate organics studio nitrogen, but with something like pelikan 4001 or nemosine aeolus palus red, it has no problem

 

Thanks--straight sonic cleaner worked. I usually only use my Decimo for a few days when I know I'll be taking quick notes a lot and I usually stick with Iroshizuku or a Sailor ink. I thought it was weird how quickly it froze up with "Dude" (the pigment ink).

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Thanks--straight sonic cleaner worked. I usually only use my Decimo for a few days when I know I'll be taking quick notes a lot and I usually stick with Iroshizuku or a Sailor ink. I thought it was weird how quickly it froze up with "Dude" (the pigment ink).

 

mine all but dies within a day with organics studio nitrogen/twilight blue.

 

But it doesn't seem to care at all with pelikan 4001 black.

Selling a boatload of restored, fairly rare, vintage Japanese gold nib pens, click here to see (more added as I finish restoring them)

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> 1:5 ratio of ammonia/hot water.

 

ammonia means aqueous ammonia, I guess - what is the concentration of your ammonia?

hot water will chase out a lot of the ammonia, so you are actually reducing the percentage compared to using cold water.

 

If you start with 28% aqueous ammonia, and dilute it with 5 parts hot water, you will probably have a 3-4% ammonia solution at the end.

 

 

The last part of what you said is correct. The first two, not in regards to practical use in dilute ammonia. We use hot/warm aqueous ammonia solution all the time in the lab.

 

Hot water doesn't "chase" out the ammonia. Yes, it has a very low boiling point of -33C, and heating the ammonia/water solution will evacuate NH3 from the solution if left in an open container and heated aggressively, but NH3 participates STRONGLY in hydrogen bonding with H2O, which is why it doesn't violently separate from water at room temp. Hydrogen bonds also participate in london dispersion and dipole-dipole interactions, which makes them REALLY, REALLY want to hang onto each other. That's how you can keep many acids and alcohols with immensely low boiling points at liquid states at room temperature in water.

 

So yes, you will evaporate the ammonia eventually if mixed with 120F water, but there's still nowhere near enough energy in that system to break the hydrogen bonds and remove the ammonia quickly enough to lose its solvent properties, and you will enhance the solvent properties of the water at the same time. So hot tap water will more than do the trick.

 

3-5% total ammonia (most household ammonia is sold at 20-30%) is perfect for assisting ink removal. We aren't making a pirahna solution here. NH3 acts more as a surfactant than anything else when it comes to dye and pigment components, helping them wick away from each other as they break off in the ultrasonic and hot water.

Edited by Honeybadgers

Selling a boatload of restored, fairly rare, vintage Japanese gold nib pens, click here to see (more added as I finish restoring them)

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Of course you will shift the equilibrium towards gaseous ammonia if you increase the internal energy by adding hot water instead of cold water. More energy breaks bonds.

 

You will increase at the same the reactivity of ammonia by using warm water. This is the reason for using hot water.

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chemistry and physics

online learning!

A bit of Chemistry, Physics, Mathematics a day is great for your (mental) health. 😁

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Yes, you missed the Stipula DaVinci Capless.

Oops! That too

 

That is one STRANGE pen.

Edited by WLSpec
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If it had a stub, I would make efforts to acquire it.

Fountain pens are my preferred COLOR DELIVERY SYSTEM (in part because crayons melt in Las Vegas).

Create a Ghostly Avatar and I'll send you a letter. Check out some Ink comparisons: The Great PPS Comparison 

Don't know where to start?  Look at the Inky Topics O'day.  Then, see inks sorted by color: Blue Purple Brown Red Green Dark Green Orange Black Pinks Yellows Blue-Blacks Grey/Gray UVInks Turquoise/Teal MURKY

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Platinum never made a stub nib available in their line up, ever. Unless there were some old limited run which I seem to have missed.

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Platinum never made a stub nib available in their line up, ever.

 

 

Not one that the company officially designated a Stub, but what does the individual (such as Amberlea) mean by Stub? Sailor doesn't make Stub nibs, either, but its Music nib is effectively one. Platinum states that, with its Music nib, "You can write thick lines vertically and thin lines horizontally, and you can write a variety of characters such as sheet music and calligraphy." Does that make it effectively an Italic nib, a Stub nib, or neither?

 

Anyway, I doubt very much that Platinum will be inclined to make Coarse or Music nibs for the Curidas, not because its ink reservoir capacity is any lesser than that for the #3776 Century, but the idea of a pen with a retractable nib is coupled somewhat more tightly with a pen that is carried out and about for quick deployment. Nib types designed to use up ink quickly and primarily for purposes other than everyday writing, jotting down notes, etc. will therefore be considered to be of much lesser demand, even they are not totally incompatible with the idea of an EDC in the Japanese/Asian market.

I endeavour to be frank and truthful in what I write, show or otherwise present, when I relate my first-hand experiences that are not independently verifiable; and link to third-party content where I can, when I make a claim or refute a statement of fact in a thread. If there is something you can verify for yourself, I entreat you to do so, and judge for yourself what is right, correct, and valid. I may be wrong, and my position or say-so is no more authoritative and carries no more weight than anyone else's here.

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That is one very ugly pen. And to add insult to injury, it has a steel nib

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Not one that the company officially designated a Stub, but what does the individual (such as Amberlea) mean by Stub? Sailor doesn't make Stub nibs, either, but its Music nib is effectively one. Platinum states that, with its Music nib, "You can write thick lines vertically and thin lines horizontally, and you can write a variety of characters such as sheet music and calligraphy." Does that make it effectively an Italic nib, a Stub nib, or neither?

 

Anyway, I doubt very much that Platinum will be inclined to make Coarse or Music nibs for the Curidas, not because its ink reservoir capacity is any lesser than that for the #3776 Century, but the idea of a pen with a retractable nib is coupled somewhat more tightly with a pen that is carried out and about for quick deployment. Nib types designed to use up ink quickly and primarily for purposes other than everyday writing, jotting down notes, etc. will therefore be considered to be of much lesser demand, even they are not totally incompatible with the idea of an EDC in the Japanese/Asian market.

 

I agree that I also don't expect them to do a C or Music nib, but it doesn't' have less capacity than the 3776 since it uses the same converter and cartridges as the 3776. The music nib does use a different feed that might not fit in the Curidas.

Laguna Niguel, California.

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but it doesn't' have less capacity than the 3776 since it uses the same converter and cartridges as the 3776.

 

That's what I meant. The ink reservoir capacity of the Curidas is not any lesser than that for the #3776 Century, and therefore it is not the reason why the "thirstier" nibs are not available for the Curidas even though they are available for select #3776 Century pens models. I said what is not the reason, but also gave my conjecture of what is the reason.

Edited by A Smug Dill

I endeavour to be frank and truthful in what I write, show or otherwise present, when I relate my first-hand experiences that are not independently verifiable; and link to third-party content where I can, when I make a claim or refute a statement of fact in a thread. If there is something you can verify for yourself, I entreat you to do so, and judge for yourself what is right, correct, and valid. I may be wrong, and my position or say-so is no more authoritative and carries no more weight than anyone else's here.

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That's what I meant. The ink reservoir capacity of the Curidas is not any lesser than that for the #3776 Century, and therefore it is not the reason why the "thirstier" nibs are not available for the Curidas even though they are available for select #3776 Century pens models. I said what is not the reason, but also gave my conjecture of what is the reason.

 

Sorry.... misunderstood. We're totally in agreement,

Laguna Niguel, California.

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