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Mabie Todd Identification Swan Lizard Skins


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I have been on the hunt for Lizard and Snake skin Swans. And I have been lucky to find these guys over the last year. Note some have cracks in the caps that have been repaired. I decided to keep a database of my pen collection but when I got to these guys, I get stuck on the model designation of some of them. I do have some of the documents that other collectors have put together. One is a pre and a post war guess at the identification numbering system. And the other, I think, is a group of collectors who listed all of the Swans that they had with model numbers. Some of this info helped a lot and other stuff seems missing or different. Maybe that was the way of things in the 1930's of England.

 

So here is where I could use some help. In the photo, from left to write.

 

1. L 212/89 Garnet Lizardskin That seems to match both the description list and the numbering practice

2. L445/87 Blue Lizardskin - It has a #3 nib but I was expecting a #4 from the model number. And has 2 gold rings on the cap but I was expection 1-2-1 rings per the collectors list

3. ????? Silver Lizardskin - has a #2 nib. If I were to guess maybe a L 242/ 86?? But it is not numbered

4. L 312/90 Silver Lizardskin - It has a #2 nib but with that model I guess I would expect a broad band instead of two smaller ones

5. ????? Green Lizardskin - #2 nib, no numbers, I would guess L 242/88?

6. L 312/88 Green Lizardskine - #3 nibm a broad band (just like the numbering cheat sheet says. But the collectors list shows it with two bands on the cap??

 

It makes me wonder if my pens have swapped caps or the collectors list had swapped nibs. And do the pens 3 and 5 above have model numbers but they are just not imprinted?

 

BTW I love these pens and I am on a quest to get all the models and colors. I am guessing it is going to take a long while.

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Edited by uilleann
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I have two more lizard pens since posting this thread (both size 4, described below)

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/322326-the-swan-lizard-pattern-thread/

 

I have a blue and a silver size #4

Marked L445/##

Both have a narrow/wide/narrow triple cap band.

 

my red #4 with wide band is marked L410/89

 

L212 and L312 pens in my collection (or bought and sold in the past) all have double narrow bands.

 

I would say your unmarked pens are L212/##

 

Does your blue #4 appear to have a missing band, or damage at the bands?

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The bands on the blue one are bent. I wonder if it originally had a thin thick thin gold filled band set? I agree that the two unnamed one were 212’s

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these things are always a magnet for the eyes - lovely collection, so far, very envious. Deep pockets needed, as well as time - according to Lambrou some cap band varieties are extremely rare - the pierced/filigree wide band on the magenta to name but one - looks to be the same band as used on the earlier Visofil - don't know if Greenie has ever had one. Makes for a wry smile now, to see that these things cost less than one pound each, when new:-)



I've not yet attempted a split cap lip repair, they are on the thin side - assume it's a case of using the circular dental clamp - which adhesive was used please?

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these things are always a magnet for the eyes - lovely collection, so far, very envious. Deep pockets needed, as well as time - according to Lambrou some cap band varieties are extremely rare - the pierced/filigree wide band on the magenta to name but one - looks to be the same band as used on the earlier Visofil - don't know if Greenie has ever had one. Makes for a wry smile now, to see that these things cost less than one pound each, when new:-)

I've not yet attempted a split cap lip repair, they are on the thin side - assume it's a case of using the circular dental clamp - which adhesive was used please?

 

 

I absolutely love my green with the band that approached the pierced filigree like the Visofil. Unbelievably, I have a spare green cap with that band waiting for a green #3 barrel some day.

 

As for the repair - I use Testors liquid cement (can't recall model number - but it has MEK and acetone), and a band clamp. After drying, it needs to be filled as well. Old clear celluloid dissolved in the the liquid cement is applied over the visible groove at the repair, and sanded smooth after curing.

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many thanks for that - will make a note of your information for future repair - I already have the dental band clamp, just need the urge to take the plunge and make a start. Top marks to the guy who invented this lizard sparkle.

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these things are always a magnet for the eyes - lovely collection, so far, very envious. Deep pockets needed, as well as time - according to Lambrou some cap band varieties are extremely rare - the pierced/filigree wide band on the magenta to name but one - looks to be the same band as used on the earlier Visofil - don't know if Greenie has ever had one. Makes for a wry smile now, to see that these things cost less than one pound each, when new:-)

I've not yet attempted a split cap lip repair, they are on the thin side - assume it's a case of using the circular dental clamp - which adhesive was used please?

 

 

The adhesive I use is MEK (Melthyl Ethyl Ketone) with a sprinkle of Camphor mixed with shaving or filings of celluloid. it makes a clear goo. I am still experimenting with how to hold the part together. I have been over applying the goo. Let it cure for a week or more as it will shrink. then sand down to final size and polish. I think Ron Zorn is one of the 20+ years experienced celluloid pen repair people. He can repair so you don't see the crack. With mine you can still see it but the crack will not grow there.

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Yup, they are amazing-looking pens. There was a perfectly mint blue lizard on the bay last year. I bid a ridiculous

amount for it and still got trumped! :(

"Every job is good if you do your best and work hard.

A man who works hard stinks only to the ones that have

nothing to do but smell."

Laura Ingalls Wilder

 

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