The Sheaffer Triumph--The Most Underrated Vintage Pen?

[SilverPearlVacumatic]

When I first developed an interest in fountain pens, I was immediately drawn to Parker pens from the 30's and 40's--the golden age of fountain pens. Over the years, however, I have been slowly warming up to Sheaffer pens. Their aesthetic is certainly less flashy and more subtle so it takes longer to truly appreciate them. The cap of the Sheaffer balance, for instance, with its single unadorned band, side mounted clip and bullet shaped plastic shows great nuance of design that can only be appreciated when stripped of the extra features. I suspect, too, that Sheaffer pens are of slightly higher quality than Parker pens of that era. The rhodium plating is almost always present on the nibs and brassing seems far less common, though the latter could be due to the more streamlined design that removes high spots exposed to wear.

 

I finally got around to buying a Sheaffer triumph, as collectors call it--it seems Sheaffer never gave the pen a name. Perhaps that is one reason that the pen has less fame than it deserves. I have been extremely impressed with the design and construction of the pen. It has too be one of the top contenders for the most stylish fountain pens of the celluloid era. My pen has striated celluloid with pearlescent green stripes alternating with transparent stripes, completely free of discoloration. It has a cheerful, springlike color scheme, bringing to mind young, freshly sprouting plants. The wide gold band is almost wrapper-like, like that of high end cigar. The nib and barrel threads are perfectly engineered. The pen consists almost entirely of novel, gadgety features, yet maintains a dignified simplicity. And, above all, it stands the test of time. These pens almost always seem to be in excellent condition. I almost see brassing, celluloid degradation, mangled nibs, replacement parts, or any of the other maladies that afflict vintage fountain pens on these Sheaffers. I could write pages in praise of this pen, but I'll just include some photos that speak for themselves.

 

 

I'm surprised at how cheaply these pens sell on ebay. These pens are almost always in excellent, unrestored condition with no noticeable defects aside from silver tarnish and the occasional engraving. And they regularly sell for about $40, often less. I have seen desk sets in excellent condition sell for as low as $15. I hate to say it, but they dangerously approach the value of the gold content. Why isn't there more interest in these pens? I'm surprised that these Sheaffers don't have a larger following. It does not seem to attract nearly the interest as Parker Vacumatics, Parker 51's, Sheaffer snorkles, or Sheaffer balances. Why is this? Does anyone on this forum focus on these?

[surprise123]

Vac fillers are hard to restore. That's the only reason. I have eyedroppered a few of these, but it's never advisable. The rod seal hasket is hard to dig out, hard to repair, and the sections are often cemented in.

[JonSzanto]

Vac fillers are hard to restore. That's the only reason. I have eyedroppered a few of these, but it's never advisable. The rod seal hasket is hard to dig out, hard to repair, and the sections are often cemented in.

 

It may be hard for some lay people to do this, but a qualified restoration person can handle the task fairly easily. Beyond that, the materials being used by the better craftspeople these days will out-last the original materials. With the ability to purchase these at very low cost, you can end up with a very admirable writing pen that will last you for decades of dedicated service.

 

I say "writing pen" because that is where I think these shine. Is a vac-fill the best pen for someone who swaps glitter inks in and out of their pen on a weekly basis? Hardly. As a pen where you know the inks that work well for writing and is a bomb-proof instrument, they are hard to surpass. I have a couple just like the one pictured and the only reason I sometimes favor an OS Balance over them is that in my hands, a slightly larger girth at the section makes for more comfortable long writing session. I just received back from an excellent restoration (thanks to Stacy Hills / paperwantsapen) a Sheaffer Triumph Crest set that I found for all of $30.00. Both pen and pencil have already seen action and the fine, stubbish nib on this pen is perfect for certain writing I do. There is no contemporary pen that captures this feeling.

 

[Sailor Kenshin]

When I first developed an interest in fountain pens, I was immediately drawn to Parker pens from the 30's and 40's--the golden age of fountain pens. Over the years, however, I have been slowly warming up to Sheaffer pens. Their aesthetic is certainly less flashy and more subtle so it takes longer to truly appreciate them. The cap of the Sheaffer balance, for instance, with its single unadorned band, side mounted clip and bullet shaped plastic shows great nuance of design that can only be appreciated when stripped of the extra features. I suspect, too, that Sheaffer pens are of slightly higher quality than Parker pens of that era. The rhodium plating is almost always present on the nibs and brassing seems far less common, though the latter could be due to the more streamlined design that removes high spots exposed to wear.

 

I finally got around to buying a Sheaffer triumph, as collectors call it--it seems Sheaffer never gave the pen a name. Perhaps that is one reason that the pen has less fame than it deserves. I have been extremely impressed with the design and construction of the pen. It has too be one of the top contenders for the most stylish fountain pens of the celluloid era. My pen has striated celluloid with pearlescent green stripes alternating with transparent stripes, completely free of discoloration. It has a cheerful, springlike color scheme, bringing to mind young, freshly sprouting plants. The wide gold band is almost wrapper-like, like that of high end cigar. The nib and barrel threads are perfectly engineered. The pen consists almost entirely of novel, gadgety features, yet maintains a dignified simplicity. And, above all, it stands the test of time. These pens almost always seem to be in excellent condition. I almost see brassing, celluloid degradation, mangled nibs, replacement parts, or any of the other maladies that afflict vintage fountain pens on these Sheaffers. I could write pages in praise of this pen, but I'll just include some photos that speak for themselves.

 

 

I'm surprised at how cheaply these pens sell on ebay. These pens are almost always in excellent, unrestored condition with no noticeable defects aside from silver tarnish and the occasional engraving. And they regularly sell for about $40, often less. I have seen desk sets in excellent condition sell for as low as $15. I hate to say it, but they dangerously approach the value of the gold content. Why isn't there more interest in these pens? I'm surprised that these Sheaffers don't have a larger following. It does not seem to attract nearly the interest as Parker Vacumatics, Parker 51's, Sheaffer snorkles, or Sheaffer balances. Why is this? Does anyone on this forum focus on these?

Yes.

 

Send them all to me.

[Ron Z]

Vac fillers are hard to restore. That's the only reason. I have eyedroppered a few of these, but it's never advisable. The rod seal hasket is hard to dig out, hard to repair, and the sections are often cemented in.

 

No, not at all. As a matter of fact, they're a lot less fuss and bother than a snorkel. Really. I'd rather restore a plunger filler than a snorkel any day.

 

There was a time when these were considered unrepairable, but that changed over a decade ago. There's a lot of information out there and on FPN on how to restore them.

 

You do have to open the pen to repair them, pull out the plunger rod, and replace the packing unit from the inside. Head gaskets to go on the rod are available. Yes, the section IS glued in, but you aren't supposed to remove the section. You unscrew the nib to get inside.

 

I think that the Sheaffer plunger fillers, and the Triumphs in particular are great pens.

[Lamyrada]

That is a very handsome looking pen... I have a tuckaway that I have been using for the moth and I'm just delighted with it. Once I forgot how to fill it and tucked away from the section, separating it slightly. I used shelac to put it back and has been working very well since. No leaks. I would liek to get a bigger one that the one shown here, but do I really need it? They ate good to look at, write with and one feels "different" and "vintage" while using them. If you are a romantic in the old way ...

[surprise123]

 

No, not at all. As a matter of fact, they're a lot less fuss and bother than a snorkel. Really. I'd rather restore a plunger filler than a snorkel any day.

 

There was a time when these were considered unrepairable, but that changed over a decade ago. There's a lot of information out there and on FPN on how to restore them.

 

You do have to open the pen to repair them, pull out the plunger rod, and replace the packing unit from the inside. Head gaskets to go on the rod are available. Yes, the section IS glued in, but you aren't supposed to remove the section. You unscrew the nib to get inside.

 

I think that the Sheaffer plunger fillers, and the Triumphs in particular are great pens.

The only part about Sheaffer Vac fillers that prevents me from getting into restoring them is the packing unit. I've done a few of them, and I think they are not as fiddly as Snorkels but still require a steady hand to not screw up. Half the pens never had shellac, it was some kind of unique cement every time. The main turn-off for me, though, is that the rod gasket seal can be hard to get out. It is true, however, that things have gotten significantly better in terms of information and repair materials for the Sheaffer Vac fillers. A correctly restored one can last a lifetime, due to the more durable Viton that the seals and gaskets are being made out of.

[FarmBoy]

The only part about Sheaffer Vac fillers that prevents me from getting into restoring them is the packing unit. I've done a few of them, and I think they are not as fiddly as Snorkels but still require a steady hand to not screw up. Half the pens never had shellac, it was some kind of unique cement every time. The main turn-off for me, though, is that the rod gasket seal can be hard to get out. It is true, however, that things have gotten significantly better in terms of information and repair materials for the Sheaffer Vac fillers. A correctly restored one can last a lifetime, due to the more durable Viton that the seals and gaskets are being made out of.

How did you convert them to an eyedropper if the rear seal was bad and how do you deal with the difficult to remove front end of the pen?

[Ron Z]

The main turn-off for me, though, is that the rod gasket seal can be hard to get out.

 

You mean the flat head gasket?? The nut on the end just unscrews and the head gasket slides right off. Grip the rod with one pair of pliers, and the nut with another. Reassembly is just the reverse, though you should put a dab of thread sealant on the end before you put the nut on to keep it from unscrewing. Tighten it just snug, not TIGHT.

[surprise123]

How did you convert them to an eyedropper if the rear seal was bad and how do you deal with the difficult to remove front end of the pen?

A spare o ring and some silicone grease.

[surprise123]

 

You mean the flat head gasket?? The nut on the end just unscrews and the head gasket slides right off. Grip the rod with one pair of pliers, and the nut with another. Reassembly is just the reverse, though you should put a dab of thread sealant on the end before you put the nut on to keep it from unscrewing. Tighten it just snug, not TIGHT.

Pliers... um, I'd probably break something.

[FarmBoy]

A spare o ring and some silicone grease.

Im still confused. If you installed an O ring to fix the shaft seal then the only thing you didnt do is change the head gasket.

 

Makes no sense to me. Could I get a picture or drawing or Ron can you help me see what Im missing.

Edited April 25, 2019 by FarmBoy

[surprise123]

Im still confused. If you installed an O ring to fix the shaft seal then the only thing you didnt do is change the head gasket.

 

Makes no sense to me. Could I get a picture or drawing or Ron can you help me see what Im missing.

No, I meant that, for a bootleg eyedropper, one can slide an o ring over the blind cap seam and screw it down in the gap, sealing off the blind cap with silicone grease. I do this for when I mess up restorations, quick and dirty. If I really messed it up, I just shellac the whole thing tight for use, and clean it out if I sell it off (most of which I have, I have one lever Sentinel Deluxe left).

[FarmBoy]

Ok. I don’t see how this can work but I’m going to go try it if I can fix the process cooling water skid at work before it gets to late...the on call guys solution was to leave it off until tomorrow

[Ron Z]

I won't say what I'd really like to say. But I will ask, why don't you just sell it off in the first place rather than make the proper repair harder for someone else, if not impossible?

 

 

 

Pliers... um, I'd probably break something.

 

No worse than shellacing the back end closed. The head gasket nuts are easily replaced.

[Ray-Vigo]

The wire pens are good pens, at least the ones I owned were pretty good. I had a couple I sold off and ended up with lever fillers and Touchdown pens instead. But the 1940s wire Triumph pens are well-made and attractive pens. Sheaffer used generally good materials and nibs such that they can be restored and work very well. The quality is there to do a good restoration now on the wire pens.

 

The most "underrated" Sheaffer pens are the Touchdown and TM Touchdown lines. They don't draw the attention of the earlier celluloid pens or the later snorkel pens. But I prefer the Touchdown system to the wire pen filler. And I have a soft spot for the Persian Blue Touchdowns.

[georges zaslavsky]

I have several vac fill pens and love them, might get some more. Ron has restored one vac fill for me and did a stellar job, I sent him my three oversized vac fill balance pens for repair. I might add a roseglow oversize balance and a black celulloid oversize balance to complete my collection.

[Tas]

Achingly beautiful to look at and my little version has a perfect fine nail of a nib. Sadly like many my filling system is shot. It now had to be drip fed with a syringe

[eharriett]

The Vac fill pens are my next education project. Just going to buy the tools sometime this week to begin my education

[georges zaslavsky]

Achingly beautiful to look at and my little version has a perfect fine nail of a nib. Sadly like many my filling system is shot. It now had to be drip fed with a syringe

send it for repair to Ron Zorn, he will restore it to perfection.