Adding To The Flock

[N1003U]

6 hours ago, Tom Kellie said:

 

~ @jmccarty3:

 

May I please offer a hearty second to your excellent suggestion above?

 

That pen and ink combination would likely be highly satisfactory.

 

      Tom K.

 

 

7 hours ago, jmccarty3 said:

You might want to give Edelstein Smoky Quartz a try at some point. It would look very nice in this pen.

 

Oh yes! Thanks to both for the excellent suggestion. I happen to have some Smoky Quartz in my inventory, but it is running low. I should probably buy another bottle or two while it is still to be found. One of my local B&M shops (I am blessed with at least two Pelikan dealers here in Freiburg) even still has a few bottles on the shelf.

 

Smoky Quartz has wonderful shading that can range from a surprisingly bright golden brown to nearly black. You are right, perhaps an excellent companion to this striking pen.

 

I also follow the thread over in the MB forum on the Hemingway, and I think perhaps this M800 is not any less beautiful.

[stoen]

12 hours ago, jmccarty3 said:

You might want to give Edelstein Smoky Quartz a try at some point. It would look very nice in this pen.

This is a very noble choice, indeed.

 

I also think of a very nice and somewhat underrated ink: Pelikan 4001 Brilliant Brown. It is similar in shading to Smoky Quartz, yet with a bit of orange hue…

[N1003U]

55 minutes ago, stoen said:

This is a very noble choice, indeed.

 

I also think of a very nice and somewhat underrated ink: Pelikan 4001 Brilliant Brown. It is similar in shading to Smoky Quartz, yet with a bit of orange hue…

Brilliant Brown is a great ink. I have heard some describe it as “under-appreciated”.  I use Brilliant Brown regularly, but my real go-to is Diamine Ancient Copper, a.) because I work occasionally in the copper business, and b.) I like that it is even a little more reddish than Brilliant Brown.

 

My experience in that Smoky Quartz is also a great shader, but when it is put down a little thicker, it can look almost black.

[debraji]

I particularly like Diamine Blood Orange, and use it regularly in the Tortoiseshell Red and Vibrant Orange M600's. It's a dark orange (a bit darker than Noodler's Cayenne), and very readable. You might like it for your M800.

[N1003U]

2 hours ago, debraji said:

I particularly like Diamine Blood Orange, and use it regularly in the Tortoiseshell Red and Vibrant Orange M600's. It's a dark orange (a bit darker than Noodler's Cayenne), and very readable. You might like it for your M800.

Another excellent suggestion. I already have Pumpkin, and Oxblood in this color direction. I think Blood Orange might be good addition to the ink palette; on the other hand, I wonder how close it runs to other brown/yellow/reds. I always buy inks in this color range, thinking they look great, and then they sit around unused (Ancient Copper is a notable exception, which I use daily). I will consider it, though.

[alfredop]

This is my new bird, a Pelikan M800 blue striped. The nib is extrafine, it is more on the fine side but it is ok with me.

 

 

Alfredo

[N1003U]

37 minutes ago, alfredop said:

This is my new bird, a Pelikan M800 blue striped. The nib is extrafine, it is more on the fine side but it is ok with me.

 

 

Alfredo

Lovely pen Alfredo. I have this color in an M400, and it makes me smile every time I pick it up.

 

I know a lot of people prefer the rhodium-plated blue Mx05, but I personally enjoy the warmth of the gold-colored furniture.

[alfredop]

34 minutes ago, N1003U said:

Lovely pen Alfredo. I have this color in an M400, and it makes me smile every time I pick it up.

 

I know a lot of people prefer the rhodium-plated blue Mx05, but I personally enjoy the warmth of the gold-colored furniture.

I have the M405 in the same color and I like both schemes😅.

 

Alfredo

[inkstainedruth]

14 hours ago, N1003U said:

I know a lot of people prefer the rhodium-plated blue Mx05, but I personally enjoy the warmth of the gold-colored furniture.

Yeah, I'm one of those "a lot of people"....  

When I had a choice, a couple of years ago, I could have saved a few bucks and gotten a blue/black M400 over the M405.  But there was just something about the rhodium that just called to me and was willing to pay a bit more to get one. 

Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth

[Karmachanic]

17 hours ago, alfredop said:

The nib is extrafine, it is more on the fine side but it is ok with me.

 

Is that a 5mm grid?  I managed to bag a black M805 EF for a good price yesterday.  I did so thinking Pelikan nibs usually write larger, particularly when mated with wetter inks, so I'd end up with a F line.

[N1003U]

59 minutes ago, Karmachanic said:

 

Is that a 5mm grid?  I managed to bag a black M805 EF for a good price yesterday.  I did so thinking Pelikan nibs usually write larger, particularly when mated with wetter inks, so I'd end up with a F line.

It isn’t always the case, IME, but I’ll give you odds. You are making a good working assumption about the functional width of a factory Pelikan EF nib.

[N1003U]

3 hours ago, inkstainedruth said:

Yeah, I'm one of those "a lot of people"....  

When I had a choice, a couple of years ago, I could have saved a few bucks and gotten a blue/black M400 over the M405.  But there was just something about the rhodium that just called to me and was willing to pay a bit more to get one. 

Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth

Blue and silver is a pretty classic color combination. There is something about it that is pleasing to the eye…👁🧘🏼‍♂️

[alfredop]

18 hours ago, Karmachanic said:

 

Is that a 5mm grid?  I managed to bag a black M805 EF for a good price yesterday.  I did so thinking Pelikan nibs usually write larger, particularly when mated with wetter inks, so I'd end up with a F line.

Yes it is a 5mm grid, ink is the classical Pelikan black.

 

Alfredo

[Karmachanic]

2 hours ago, alfredop said:

Yes it is a 5mm grid, ink is the classical Pelikan black.

 

Alfredo

 

Thank you.  Very helpful.

[stoen]

Hello, Everybody!

 

How about this little one?

- a cute 1938 101N, I’ve almost literally salvaged from scrap. It was my most intense, tricky and time consuming Pelikan restoration job so far, but I find it was worth it:

Hope you’ll like it.

🙂

[carola]

24 minutes ago, stoen said:

Hello, Everybody!

 

How about this little one?

- a cute 1938 101N, I’ve almost literally salvaged from scrap. It was my most intense, tricky and time consuming Pelikan restoration job so far, but I find it was worth it:

Hope you’ll like it.

🙂

 

You have done something good.

[Christopher Godfrey]

Yes!  Wonderful job and wonderful pen, stoen!  Bravo!

 

You know, the more I think about it, the more I am confused: I thought I knew the vintage models well enough; but what is the difference between 100N and 101N?  I thought it was a case of the cap (red for 100 and tortoise for 101) -- but I am wrong, aren't I?  Please throw me a lifeline!

 

I'm referring to tortoises here...

[carola]

The 100N models have black caps.

The 101N models have caps matching the colour of the body or of a different colour than black.

 

That´s it.

 

[Christopher Godfrey]

Aha!  Thank you, carola: danke sehr!

[stoen]

Thanks Everybody for your kind and supportive words. 

 

Quote

The 100N models have black caps.

The 101N models have caps matching the colour of the body or of a different colour than black.

 

That´s it.

 

Hopefully so, but not as simple as it appears to be.

 

As for the 100N/101N difference, in most of the 1937/38 wholesale catalogues GW advertises and/or implies this:

 

Model 100N - black/green, black/gray or black/black

 

Model 101N - lizard pattern, brown/tortoise or all brown

 

I find these descriptions somewhat vague compared to what’s going on in real life. On the other hand, in the canonical “Pelikan Schreibgeräte” book, the red (or red-brown) ebonite cap + piston mechanism / tortoise binde is considered a 100N. So are the deskpens with same color combiantions (100Nf).

 

Much of it has been discussed in the “Dating Pelikan Fountain Pen” thread.

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/358957-dating-pelikan-fountain-pen/#comments

 

My individual research concerning the pre WWII models points at the following - 

 

There are also transitional models which neither look like possible later DIY  “repairs”, nor “frankenpens” yet are not explicitly documented in the wholesale catalogs:

 

- black ebonite piston mechanisms and dark tortoise caps / bindes (quite a different look and feel from the regular 101N).

 

- entirely black ebonite caps and mechanisms, but tortoise bindes.

 

- black ebonite piston mechanisms and matching ebonite black cap tops, but tortoise cap tubes and bindes.

 

- red-brown ebonite piston mechanisms and matching ebonite red-brown cap tops, but tortoise cap tubes and bindes.

 

- very rare red-brown ebonite piston mechanisms + entire caps and matching red-brown grip sections, and tortoise binde (bodies), much like in some modern “originals of their time” M101Ns.

 

- in some of the post war pens one can also find “Pelikan 100N” imprints on the barrels, although they look more like a 101N (red-brown celluloid caps + mechanisms and tortoise striped barrels).

 

Aside from some details snd variations I’ve ommitted to keep the post readable, this is as much as I know.