Dry Ink For Pelikan M1000

[4lex]

My M1000 is just too wet for any meaningful use. I tried Pelikan 4001 Blue Black and Diamine Registrars ink but it is still behaving like a garden hose.

Can someone recommend me an ink that is really really dry, even drier than the ones mentioned above.?

[minddance]

scabiosa. Waterman serenity blue (stays close to the nib).

 

my m1000f with Visconti Blue is quite a true fine on Rhodia.

 

on absorbent papers it is another matter.

Edited November 29, 2018 by minddance

[Honeybadgers]

if 4001 is too wet, the problem is the pen. contact pelikan or whomever you bought it from.

 

Waterman serenity blue is actually a fairly wet ink. But to its credit, if the pen writes wrong with serenity blue, the problem is the pen.

[ENewton]

I agree with Scabiosa, or Robert Oster Barossa Grape.

[minddance]

diamine peach haze and classic green, if you enjoy these colors. kaweco blue too.

[alexander_k]

if 4001 is too wet, the problem is the pen. contact pelikan or whomever you bought it from.

 

Waterman serenity blue is actually a fairly wet ink. But to its credit, if the pen writes wrong with serenity blue, the problem is the pen.

 

Sound advice: the problem may lie with the pen. Quite often it's a matter of fine tuning.

[4lex]

Most inks recommendation are in my experience no drier than the inks I tried. 4001 usually tamed my wet pens so this is now an unknown territory.

Maybe I will have to send it to a nibmeister for fine tuning. I bought it second hand from Germany. Saved myself £150 but got myself a lemon. But saying that, I do like it. I would like it even better if I could use it.

[Bo Bo Olson]

Try pressing the tines together from the shoulders so they overlap. Hold the overlap for a second or so. Do an up and do a bottom...to which ever tine you want, as control tine. That should do it.

 

Then just check you have not misaligned the tines in a vertical arrangement. Shouldn't...if so, press the up tine down from the breather hole, three or so seconds.

 

NUMBER 2...................it could be you have a semi-flex 1000.....those may have been made by Bock, from when Bock made Pelikan's nibs..........the 1000 was the last nib taken in house. Back when Bock was still making at least the 1000 for Pelikan, I'd checked a 1000 in my B&M and it was semi-flex.

There had been many posts was it a semi-flex or a regular flex. Then I found out the 1000 came in both semi-flex and a nice springy regular flex. There is a big difference. Semi-flex requires a much better ink and paper match for shading inks, in it is a wetter writer. Regular flex is the nib flex I go to for my basic shading inks....in it is that bit dryer.......................nails can be the driest.

My post Bock 1000 is a springy regular flex. ..... because as a OBB it's a bit wide and there for a bit wet.

 

Could be you have a semi-flex 1000 and a slightly heavy hand.

It can take a long time to lighten one's Hand. My first semi-flex was a 140, and it took me some three months to get a lighter Hand so I wasn't maxing the nib all the time.

 

You show no picture....so your overly wet may just be normal semi-flex, wetter than regular flex or semi-nail/nail nib.

 

You didn't say how wide the nib is...........wide nibs are going to be wetter. If wide do you have that width in your other pens.???..........Do you have any '50-70's era German semi-flex pens?

If so do you have one in the same width as your 1000?

Edited November 29, 2018 by Bo Bo Olson

[4lex]

Thanks Bo Bo. The nib is Fine. It is very soft but not really semi flex as it has very little snap back. Its a bit mushy. But still pleasant writer. I did smooth it a bit as the nib was singing with annoying high frequency. I hesitate to try to tune it to make it drier. I can make nibs wetter with ease but making them drier is tricky. I think I need to practice on Chinese nibs first.

[4lex]

Here are some photos. Wet after 45 seconds. Ink is Diamine Evergreen

[4lex]

Try pressing the tines together from the shoulders so they overlap. Hold the overlap for a second or so. Do an up and do a bottom...to which ever tine you want, as control tine. That should do it.

 

Then just check you have not misaligned the tines in a vertical arrangement. Shouldn't...if so, press the up tine down from the breather hole, three or so seconds.

 

NUMBER 2...................it could be you have a semi-flex 1000.....those may have been made by Bock, from when Bock made Pelikan's nibs..........the 1000 was the last nib taken in house. Back when Bock was still making at least the 1000 for Pelikan, I'd checked a 1000 in my B&M and it was semi-flex.

There had been many posts was it a semi-flex or a regular flex. Then I found out the 1000 came in both semi-flex and a nice springy regular flex. There is a big difference. Semi-flex requires a much better ink and paper match for shading inks, in it is a wetter writer. Regular flex is the nib flex I go to for my basic shading inks....in it is that bit dryer.......................nails can be the driest.

My post Bock 1000 is a springy regular flex. ..... because as a OBB it's a bit wide and there for a bit wet.

 

Could be you have a semi-flex 1000 and a slightly heavy hand.

It can take a long time to lighten one's Hand. My first semi-flex was a 140, and it took me some three months to get a lighter Hand so I wasn't maxing the nib all the time.

 

You show no picture....so your overly wet may just be normal semi-flex, wetter than regular flex or semi-nail/nail nib.

 

You didn't say how wide the nib is...........wide nibs are going to be wetter. If wide do you have that width in your other pens.???..........Do you have any '50-70's era German semi-flex pens?

If so do you have one in the same width as your 1000?

I have made couple of nibs drier using the method you recommend by overlapping the time but at least two of them then suffered from nib creep. I think it can scratch the tines and pull up the ink. I may give it a go if I feel adventurous.

[Bo Bo Olson]

I don't have much problem with too wet...and the one too dry pen, I cured by going to a wetter ink...at first Waterman then DA royal blue...that is a bit more saturated.

 

nib creep....i always put into the ink problem pile.

 

And that ink is more than just pen driven....that ink is reacting with your paper like Noodler's Golden Brown (by far my wettest ink....one page= great shading and color and then one can watch the commercials. )....which needs a full page written before one can write on the back side, or the infamous Private Reserve....well warned never went near the stuff.

 

I always thought nib creep was ink driven.........Diamine Ancient Copper comes to mind.

 

 

You have enough pens.....And 4001 BB is dry. Herbin also.

 

What paper? Though that can't be the problem....over 40 seconds to dry...

And that has nothing to do with crossing tines....that would be something where you want to go from 20 to 15, or from 15 to 10....................not 40+ seconds of a Private Reserve masquerade.

 

Ask Amber over in Ink Reviews. I'm lost.

 

Same 40 seconds with 4001 and Herbin?

[Tseg]

Fountain pen purists read at your own risk. My M1000 (M) nib was a problem child. Out of the box it wrote like a soupy BB, had burrs and also sang loudly. I live in the US but bought it in the UK so was not inclined to send it back. I did send a note through the Pelikan corporate website early on but they never responded. For four months I had easily 10+ micro-mesh 'sessions' with my nib. At first very delicate, but by the end started with the roughest grit and worked my way up to the 12K stuff. Several times I was about to buy a new nib but was concerned of having similar issues. My final session, now months ago, I felt like Dr. Frankenstein. The things I was doing to that nib were unnatural. It was the Hail Mary. Much to my amazement, coming out of that final session my nib was brilliant... soft, smooth, quiet, no skipping or hard starts and a juicy-but-not-too-juicy Western Fine line. It wrote flawlessly with any ink on any paper. Today, months later it is still brilliant, writing flawlessly with any ink on any paper. I wish you well on your quest for nib resolution.

 

Edited November 30, 2018 by Tseg

[4lex]

I managed to make it a bit drier. I feel I was butchering the nib a bit. But at least now with dry ink it is sort of usable.

The writing sample in the centre dark blue is how it writes.

[Honeybadgers]

that looks perfect for a pelikan. they should be wet writers.

[AL01]

I managed to make it a bit drier. I feel I was butchering the nib a bit. But at least now with dry ink it is sort of usable.

The writing sample in the centre dark blue is how it writes.

 

That looks like a Pelikan to me!

 

In regards to dry inks: Pelikan 4001, Lamy Blue OR Blue-Black. These inks I have tried out and work reliably on my pen. Inks like Diamine and Waterman work well too, but make sure you have slightly nicer paper to accommodate those inks. (They do bleed on cheap paper.) Anything else seems to come out way too wet for me.

[mulrich]

My M1000 is also an incredible wet writer, so much so that it largely goes unused. A few months back I bought a bottle of Platinum Citrus Black and it was so dry that it also went largely unused. I eventually put two and two together and inked the M1000 with Citrus Black and they were a perfect pairing. I imagine most other iron gall inks would also work well with the M1000 but I haven't tried any others.