Delike Converters – Anyone Found A Good Substitute?

[Antenociticus]

I've got several Delike pens – Alphas in metal and acrylic, a New Moon, and what I believe is called a "Smurf" – and they all have the same problem: the converters rattle.

 

It's not the agitator (if that's what you call the small spring inside the reservoir) but the turning mechanism, the bit you grip and twist to fill the thing. It never properly rests. Even when the pen is inked and all fitted together, if you tap the barrel, it rattles inside.

 

This is unbelievably irritating. It makes me leave the Delikes at home, where they sit, flawed and forlorn, in a pen pot.

 

None of the other converters I have handy seem to fit, but something surely must. I'm wondering whether anyone else has successfully replaced the converter on a Delike pen, and if so, exactly what with.

 

(Cartridges – but again, of what sort? – would be an acceptable solution, though they would rather defeat the point of the Delike Alpha.)

[Astronymus]

Put a disc or a another padding of felt around the converter handle. Would that help?

[Antenociticus]

  On 8/22/2018 at 9:16 PM, Astron said:

Put a disc or a another padding of felt around the converter handle. Would that help?

 

Maybe. Thanks for the suggestion. Don't have any felt discs to hand, though, and am unsure where I might obtain such a thing.

Edited August 22, 2018 by ad_nib

[Astronymus]

I think for testing the concept any piece of cloth will do. If something rattles, it can be silenced.

Edited August 22, 2018 by Astron

[OCArt]

Perhaps you can wrap a rubber band around it.

[Antenociticus]

Thanks for that suggestion, which I've just tried on two pens – with unfortunate results.

 

Even with the smallest rubber band I could find (25 mm diameter), it was a struggle to get the barrel screwed back on to the section once the band was wrapped around the converter.

 

On the resin Alpha, where the red rubber was showing through the orange resin, unscrewing the section detached the converter from it, with the converter still firmly lodged deep inside the barrel. Trying to find some way to tease it out – first with a wooden cocktail stick and then with a tiny screwdriver – broke a chunk out of the acrylic on the threading of the barrel. And the converter is still stuck deep in there. This pen is probably now useless.

 

On the "Smurf", a piece of the converter protruded from the barrel after I'd removed the section. So I tried gripping it with a small pair of pliers. I did get the converter back out of this one, but it was damaged in the process. I've inked it, though, and it seems to work for now. Time will tell. But meanwhile, although the pen writes nicely, it still rattles.

 

So I'm back to my original question: Has anyone found a converter that will work in Delike pens?

[ayeneneyeee]

I've been using a Jinhao international standard converter (joining size: 0.3 cm, length: 65 mm) in my metal Delike Alpha with no problems. It fits in the plastic Alphas too.

 

These were the ones I got: https://www.ebay.com/itm/131258841442

 

Otherwise, if you don't have felt, you could also try making a rolled up paper spacer like in this video:

[Mech-for-i]

I do not have the Alpa, nor the Smurf, but having quite a collection of Delike and OEM using those nib units, so far I do not really have such rattling issue with the converters. By rattling I suppose there is 2 different issue on hand ...

 

1. the fit of the converter opening to the receptacle is loose or at least not tight and snug enough
2. the diameter of the converter is less than the opening of the section and thus combined with the prior, the converter will sway or rattle inside even when fitted and is not detaching

I do not think rubber bank is a good idea personally as its pretty thick and also can cause said problem. My take for any converter ( not just Delike ) that had this gap between the section ad the converter barrel is to use hobbyist / artist masking tape ... they are very thin and easily peeled off when not needed just wrap them around the part the converter / section junction and made sure it sit just right, a single loop or might be more if the section is wide. These tape also have some give but not actually rubbery as in using a rubber band so would not catch on the section. Hobbyist masking tape in particular, usually are waxed on the surface ( that's how they mask the paint from the art work ). Generally what Seele shown in the video also work though some pen are more adapt to that solution than others. Usually the masking tape solution would cure the problem right as it will pretty much fix the converter in place.

 

As for the 1st one its about finding the one converter that best fit, and this is not just Delike, its simply a case of mass production / price / vs manufacturing tolerance ... Standard Int'l ( should really be termed German / Pelikan ) had an opening of 2.4mm , Delike and many Chinese fountain pen use the Hero spec 2.6mm, Parker / Lamy / Aurora 3.2mm and some older one 3.4mm and of course Sailor / Platinum / Pilot their own and also some others also different ones. The problem usually is not just the different opening ( and then one use the wrong spec.ed converter ) but also among the same spec.ed ones the tolerance might or might not work against it and then the material also had give and so and so .... I've had Montblanc / Pelikan / Schimdt / Parker / Hero and many other big names converter giving me similar trouble even on their own pen ... for Delike the solution however is pretty easy ... most Chinese fountain pen today use that Hero spec and there are loads of different converter that's on the market that fits, just needing to find one ... generally Mfr had a large batch of the same converter as parts from OEM and those might or might not always fit the various models the converter suppose to go into. I had a stash of dozens of the common ones and when I got a converter that's kind of loose , I just take out the stash and try to see if I got one that fit better and use the prior mentioned masking tape hack to finalize

Edited August 23, 2018 by Mech-for-i

[Antenociticus]

  On 8/23/2018 at 10:57 AM, ayeneneyeee said:

I've been using a Jinhao international standard converter (joining size: 0.3 cm, length: 65 mm) in my metal Delike Alpha with no problems. It fits in the plastic Alphas too.

 

These were the ones I got: https://www.ebay.com/itm/131258841442

 

Thanks!

 

I have now ordered some of those and in a month or so I'll report back on whether they worked.

[Antenociticus]

  On 8/23/2018 at 11:27 AM, Mech-for-i said:

I do not have the Alpa, nor the Smurf, but having quite a collection of Delike and OEM using those nib units, so far I do not really have such rattling issue with the converters. By rattling I suppose there is 2 different issue on hand ...

 

1. the fit of the converter opening to the receptacle is loose or at least not tight and snug enough
2. the diameter of the converter is less than the opening of the section and thus combined with the prior, the converter will sway or rattle inside even when fitted and is not detaching

I do not think rubber bank is a good idea personally as its pretty thick and also can cause said problem. My take for any converter ( not just Delike ) that had this gap between the section ad the converter barrel is to use hobbyist / artist masking tape ... they are very thin and easily peeled off when not needed just wrap them around the part the converter / section junction and made sure it sit just right, a single loop or might be more if the section is wide. These tape also have some give but not actually rubbery as in using a rubber band so would not catch on the section. Hobbyist masking tape in particular, usually are waxed on the surface ( that's how they mask the paint from the art work ). Generally what Seele shown in the video also work though some pen are more adapt to that solution than others. Usually the masking tape solution would cure the problem right as it will pretty much fix the converter in place.

 

As for the 1st one its about finding the one converter that best fit, and this is not just Delike, its simply a case of mass production / price / vs manufacturing tolerance ... Standard Int'l ( should really be termed German / Pelikan ) had an opening of 2.4mm , Delike and many Chinese fountain pen use the Hero spec 2.6mm, Parker / Lamy / Aurora 3.2mm and some older one 3.4mm and of course Sailor / Platinum / Pilot their own and also some others also different ones. The problem usually is not just the different opening ( and then one use the wrong spec.ed converter ) but also among the same spec.ed ones the tolerance might or might not work against it and then the material also had give and so and so .... I've had Montblanc / Pelikan / Schimdt / Parker / Hero and many other big names converter giving me similar trouble even on their own pen ... for Delike the solution however is pretty easy ... most Chinese fountain pen today use that Hero spec and there are loads of different converter that's on the market that fits, just needing to find one ... generally Mfr had a large batch of the same converter as parts from OEM and those might or might not always fit the various models the converter suppose to go into. I had a stash of dozens of the common ones and when I got a converter that's kind of loose , I just take out the stash and try to see if I got one that fit better and use the prior mentioned masking tape hack to finalize

 

Thanks for the detailed assessment.

 

The problem seems simply to be that the knob one twists to empty or fill the converter is loose and moves. The converter otherwise seems to seat firmly in the section.

[Mech-for-i]

  On 8/23/2018 at 12:12 PM, ad_nib said:

 

Thanks for the detailed assessment.

 

The problem seems simply to be that the knob one twists to empty or fill the converter is loose and moves. The converter otherwise seems to seat firmly in the section.

 

Then I suppose a loop of masking tape there or 2 can do the trick, make sure not to over do it, just enough so it basically fit in the barrel , the motto is fit but not actually snug

[Antenociticus]

  On 8/23/2018 at 12:57 PM, Mech-for-i said:

 

Then I suppose a loop of masking tape there or 2 can do the trick, make sure not to over do it, just enough so it basically fit in the barrel , the motto is fit but not actually snug

 

Well, that seemed a good suggestion so I tried it on the "smurf", adding loops of masking tape one by one until the noise disappeared. Unfortunately, the point at which the masking tape was thick enough to dampen the rattling was the same point at which the barrel was snug enough against the (very loose!) turning mechanism to grip and twist as I unscrewed it, expelling the ink from the converter. My fingers are now a nice shade of Noodler's Blue-Black.

 

A pity because, since inking it earlier, I found I liked the "Smurf". It writes very nicely. But now I should probably put it away until the converters recommended above get here on the slow boat from China.

 

Or only ever open it when it's out of ink!

[Astronymus]

  On 8/23/2018 at 8:51 AM, ad_nib said:

Thanks for that suggestion, which I've just tried on two pens – with unfortunate results.

 

Even with the smallest rubber band I could find (25 mm diameter), it was a struggle to get the barrel screwed back on to the section once the band was wrapped around the converter.

 

On the resin Alpha, where the red rubber was showing through the orange resin, unscrewing the section detached the converter from it, with the converter still firmly lodged deep inside the barrel. Trying to find some way to tease it out – first with a wooden cocktail stick and then with a tiny screwdriver – broke a chunk out of the acrylic on the threading of the barrel. And the converter is still stuck deep in there. This pen is probably now useless.

 

On the "Smurf", a piece of the converter protruded from the barrel after I'd removed the section. So I tried gripping it with a small pair of pliers. I did get the converter back out of this one, but it was damaged in the process. I've inked it, though, and it seems to work for now. Time will tell. But meanwhile, although the pen writes nicely, it still rattles.

 

So I'm back to my original question: Has anyone found a converter that will work in Delike pens?

Rubber bands cause too much friction. Foreseeable.

[Antenociticus]

  On 8/23/2018 at 4:57 PM, Astron said:

Rubber bands cause too much friction. Foreseeable.

 

Well, now I know. Goodbye the Alpha.

[Astronymus]

Chinese pen. Just get a new one.

[Antenociticus]

  On 8/23/2018 at 8:14 PM, Astron said:

Chinese pen. Just get a new one.

 

Yeah, maybe. These ones aren't that cheap, and cost more than the regular Kaweco Sport that it's knocking off. What you get for that extra four or five euros is eye-catching material and an additional centimetre to accommodate the rattling converter. It wrote OK. I inked it with red and used it for mark-up, but usually found myself reaching for one of my Moonman pens in preference.

 

It does have a place in my collection of pocket pens, but I found the length irritating. At 113 mm capped it's really out there at the long end of what counts for me as a pocket pen, almost long enough to be a shirt pocket pen (ideally 120 mm). This makes its Kaweco-like form seem vaguely ridiculous.

 

I haven't even inked the (much cheaper) metal one, and I'm not certain it's even Delike – it wasn't billed as such and it doesn't have "War and Peace" etched on it (one of the reasons I bought this one). But it has the same elongated Kaweco form and is so heavy I'd worry about dropping it on my toe.

Edited August 23, 2018 by ad_nib

[oneill]

  On 8/23/2018 at 10:57 AM, ayeneneyeee said:

I've been using a Jinhao international standard converter (joining size: 0.3 cm, length: 65 mm) in my metal Delike Alpha with no problems. It fits in the plastic Alphas too.

 

These were the ones I got: https://www.ebay.com/itm/131258841442

 

Otherwise, if you don't have felt, you could also try making a rolled up paper spacer like in this video:

It is possible that a Jinhao Convertor will help you fix problem however Jinhao nearly always have a problem which needs a little attention,because Jinhao DO Not Flush out the convertor when it is being made resulting in it being coated with Manufacturers OIL, so flush out with warm water several Times with Washing up liquid followed by a good FLUSh out with Warm water which has clean water only in it,That should fix the problem,regards Oneill.