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Another Gem From The 1970S: The Montblanc 220


Michael R.

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Those pens are the typical Montblancs which can be found at almost any better, German flea market.

Great value, great writers, huge selection of nib points - a lot of pens found in Germany have an OB or OBB nib - easy to maintain and still affordable. Prices can vary widely between 30 and 200 €.

 

P1260760.jpg

 

More info and a love story & background trivia about the pen's finish can be found here:

another gem from the 1970s: the Montblanc 220

 

Let me know if you can share more insight about those pens :-)

 

 

Cheers

 

Michael

Edited by Michael R.
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How do the pistons hold up over time? I've been thinking about grabbing one of these (the overlap between Montblanc and the Lamy 2000 is very enticing), but concerns about the piston seal has always made me hesitate.

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If you can get a NOS one you most likely should not have any problems.

 

An extensively used one might have a worn piston seal but most likely those will show other problems like micro cracks or worn cap clutches (actually it's the cap itself and not the metal clutches in the ink window).

In case this worries you too much you might consider getting a c/c model :-)

 

Any special nib you are looking for?

Cheers and good luck!

Michael

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Do these have the piston spindle weakness of their 1960s cousins?

 

I cannot speak for the MB220 series of pens, but I have an extensive collection of the 1960s 12/14, 22/24, and 32/34 pens. The only time I find a problem with the piston spindle is when the pens haven't been properly cleaned and dried up ink causes the piston seal to seize up and forced action breaks the spindle. This is almost exactly like the problems with the modern (1960s - today) 146s and 149s pistons.

 

Fortunately, the sections of these pens are much easier to disassemble and clean, but the piston mechanisms are harder to remove.

 

I believe Francis has discussed this before, but I believe that a lot of the piston problems we experience could be resolved with a stronger spindle.

Hard times don't last, but hard people do.

 

Thank a Veteran.

 

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I cannot speak for the MB220 series of pens, but I have an extensive collection of the 1960s 12/14, 22/24, and 32/34 pens. The only time I find a problem with the piston spindle is when the pens haven't been properly cleaned and dried up ink causes the piston seal to seize up and forced action breaks the spindle. This is almost exactly like the to problems with the modern (1960s - today) 146s and 149s pistons.

 

Fortunately, the sections of these pens are much easier to disassemble and clean, but the piston mechanisms are harder to remove.

 

I believe Francis has discussed this before, but I believe that a lot of the piston problems we experience could be resolved with a stronger spindle.

 

Very interesting, thank you.

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My 149 from 1990, my first MB as I can now say, came with a piston so stiff I feared breaking it. Cleaning then silicone grease on the cylinder walls solved it (took a year before I got around to making am opening tool). The MB 14 I collected yesterday was apparently never inked (no traces) and the piston somewhat stiff. Thanks to information here it was easy to pull the section to grease it too, after which the piston sails smoothly. It may be that the spindle is a weaker link in the mechanism. I think a little care and maintenance should keep it pretty safe.

X

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Any special nib you are looking for?

 

Either an extra fine or an oblique broad. Opposite ends of the spectrum, but I know the former works with my handwriting; the latter is more out of personal interest (and not a small degree of curiosity aroused by the oblique thread elsewhere in the Montblanc forum).

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@RSVP:

 

From the c. 25-30 pens Ive handled (both 1x, 2x, 3x, 121, 220, 221, Classic,...) none had a broken spindle but few had cracked caps and gripping section or barrels in rare ocasions.

 

@niksch:

 

The 121, 220/221 and Classic pens are the easiest to take apart. The older ones from the 60s are easy as well except for the friction fitted piston unit which takes some efforts, know-how and experience to remove without damage.

 

But I have not been able to remove the clear blue ink container on those. I dont think they were made to be removed ?! have you?

 

Ive also noticed both white and black spindles in those pens but did not care to pay attention neither to the age or model. Are those different parts or just different colors? Would they be exchangeable with parts from other Montblanc pens?

 

 

@cag-1787:

 

I like the OF and BB (very stub like) the best :-)

 

Cheers

 

Michael

Edited by Michael R.
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Hey Michael,

 

I agree with you on the friction fit piston removal. My technique is much like making sausage (or laws). It's best not to be observed! I've not attempted to remve the blue cylinder, but I have a ruined barrel and I may just see how it is all constructed. I also have seen white and black spindles on many of the models, and like you, never paid attention to the age.

 

I would think that the 12 turning knob would fit the 22, and 14 with the 24, etc. But I've not had a reason to attempt this.

Hard times don't last, but hard people do.

 

Thank a Veteran.

 

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...snip...

 

I've not attempted to remve the blue cylinder, but I have a ruined barrel and I may just see how it is all constructed.

 

This would be interesting to see.

 

I've never managed to pull out the blue sleeve on these pens.

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I would think that the 12 turning knob would fit the 22, and 14 with the 24, etc. But I've not had a reason to attempt this.

 

 

This works for sure; I was rather wondering if black and white spindles would be interchangeable. Will try the next time :-)

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The 22x are great pens, wonderfully made and mostly still in good condition. I've had a few and they needed little beyond disassembly, a thorough cleaning and then assembly. The nibs include some great obliques and a few semi-flex ones. In short, pens to cherish.

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This works for sure; I was rather wondering if black and white spindles would be interchangeable. Will try the next time :-)

 

I would think yes.

Hard times don't last, but hard people do.

 

Thank a Veteran.

 

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The 22x are great pens, wonderfully made and mostly still in good condition. I've had a few and they needed little beyond disassembly, a thorough cleaning and then assembly. The nibs include some great obliques and a few semi-flex ones. In short, pens to cherish.

 

+1!

Hard times don't last, but hard people do.

 

Thank a Veteran.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have a 24 from the 1960's en route to my house. Is anyone aware of a thread out there that describes disassembly for cleaning/greasing?

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I recall there is something somewhere. :) However, I expect also that it would be the same as my 14: the section unscrews at the ink window for access for greasing. I did not need nor attempt to remove the piston assembly, which I am pretty sure is a tight friction fit, thus not too easy. Cleaning and a dab of silicone grease made mine silky.

X

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I recall there is something somewhere. :) However, I expect also that it would be the same as my 14: the section unscrews at the ink window for access for greasing. I did not need nor attempt to remove the piston assembly, which I am pretty sure is a tight friction fit, thus not too easy. Cleaning and a dab of silicone grease made mine silky.

 

Any piston disassembly should not be undertaken lightly. Thankfully, there are enough instructions on the Internet to help with such sensitive tasks. The models that are the subject of this thread are among the easiest in my experience. I don't recall having any trouble disassembling, cleaning, lubricating and reassembling their pistons - in contrast to some other German brands.

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Of course, unscrewing the section to grease the cylinder in which the piston moves involves no disassembly of the piston.

X

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Thanks about the nib removal tactic for greasing. It is not in my nature to like vintage anything, however after having bought a new Lamy 2000 and Waterman Carene and both end up being some of my favorite writers I became interested in the roots of such pens. I know the MB hooded nib '60's & 70's pens are not the true roots, but a nice balance of old and new to woo this anti-vintage pen user to buy my first vintage pen (MB 24). Hopefully the nib meets my expectations.

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