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Replacement Plunger Rods for Sheaffer Pens


Darren

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Hello,

 

I've been collecting run down Sheaffer Balance plungers and have replaced a couple of washers and packing units with great results: they are terrific pens when they're running well!

 

I need to replace a number of plunger rods because only the stainless steel rods have survived: all the hard rubber coated (carbon steel?) plungers have cracked and corroded.

 

I'm hoping I can buy the rod at the hobby shop, and possible a tap and die set to thread it to fit the cap and the hard washer. Has anyone tried this? If you have any information on gauges and thread sizes I would appreciate it.

 

Thanks and regards, Darren.

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I don't know about the tap and die sets, but Francis Goosens, who posts here as fountainbel, sells them for about $8.00-10.00 each. They are excellent in my experience.

 

John

So if you have a lot of ink,

You should get a Yink, I think.

 

- Dr Suess

 

Always looking for pens by Baird-North, Charles Ingersoll, and nibs marked "CHI"

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Hi Darren,

The plunger rod thread spec's are : UNF- size 0- 80 Pitch.

As Johnny specified, I make them in stainless steel.

Cost is $10.00, or $ 8.00/ piece when ordered with 5 pieces. ( mixed lengths possible )

Delivery within a week.

Note machining the threaded parts fully concentric to the shaft is rather delicate when using stainless steel

There are at least 5 different lengths covering the various pen versions.

Whatever the total length, the threaded parts are always identical ( approx. 4mm )

Given this fact the length dimension is mostly specified using the "over the shoulders" length.

Good luck !

Francis

Edited by fountainbel
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have replaced a couple of washers and packing units with great results

 

Can I ask if you know of posted instructions online? I have a vac-fill Crest I need to rehab. I'm pretty capable and can follow directions (I did my Snorkel with no problems at all) but haven't found the procedure yet for this pen.

 

--Bob Farace

~~scribbler~~

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have replaced a couple of washers and packing units with great results

 

Can I ask if you know of posted instructions online? I have a vac-fill Crest I need to rehab. I'm pretty capable and can follow directions (I did my Snorkel with no problems at all) but haven't found the procedure yet for this pen.

 

Thanks for all the responses - I'll sort my sizes out then make an order for some rods from Francis. I'm assuming I can salvage the hard washer parts but made need to get some of them as well.

 

The instructions I have used for replacing washer and packing unit are from the Vintage Pens website (http://www.vintagepens.com/FAQrepair/plunger_filler_repair.shtml). They've worked really well, but I've been using the parts purchased from that site too (urethane sheet and punches for the washer, rubber gasket and styrene washer for the packing unit).

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\The instructions I have used for replacing washer and packing unit are from the Vintage Pens website (http://www.vintagepens.com/FAQrepair/plunger_filler_repair.shtml). They've worked really well, but I've been using the parts purchased from that site too (urethane sheet and punches for the washer, rubber gasket and styrene washer for the packing unit).

 

Thanks! Looks quite do-able, but it also looks like I'd have to buy enough materials to do 20 pens; I've only got the one, so unfortunately (only because I'd enjoy doing it) this is another of those repairs that would be more economical to send out than do myself.

 

Let me ask this, just to sate my curiosity: It looks like the packing material would be easier to replace if the barrel end plug could be removed. Is it fixed permanently in place?

 

--Bob Farace

~~scribbler~~

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\The instructions I have used for replacing washer and packing unit are from the Vintage Pens website (http://www.vintagepens.com/FAQrepair/plunger_filler_repair.shtml). They've worked really well, but I've been using the parts purchased from that site too (urethane sheet and punches for the washer, rubber gasket and styrene washer for the packing unit).

 

Thanks! Looks quite do-able, but it also looks like I'd have to buy enough materials to do 20 pens; I've only got the one, so unfortunately (only because I'd enjoy doing it) this is another of those repairs that would be more economical to send out than do myself.

 

Let me ask this, just to sate my curiosity: It looks like the packing material would be easier to replace if the barrel end plug could be removed. Is it fixed permanently in place?

 

Bob, I really don't know - I've had a good look around with a torch in the end and can't see a seem between the washer that holds the packing unit in and side of the barrel and I've assumed that the washer is bonded or glued (so it won't come out easily). Once I've removed it by hand by twisting through a 15/64 drill bit the section that the packing unit and washer fits into does appear to be a slightly smaller inside diameter than that end of the barrell. Once the drill has cut through I've scraped the sides like the instructions said and found the replacement styrene washer to be a snug fit in a 1000, but I think I'll need to sand it down to fit into that end section on the more slender 875 I'm working on at the moment.

 

Vintage Pens sell the packing seal and styrene washer in smaller sets of 10 on eBay, but it's the punches and urethane sheet that are expensive. The alternative is, of course, to get more pens to make it economical! From a do-it-yourself perspective, hearing and seeing the pen fill (and it's a lot of ink!) after replacing the parts was the most satisfying moment of my brief career in restoration... so far...

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Let me ask this, just to sate my curiosity: It looks like the packing material would be easier to replace if the barrel end plug could be removed. Is it fixed permanently in place?

 

The packing unit is shellaced in place with typical pen shellac. I have removed them from a couple of pens using heat and a tool developed by Francis (fountainbel). He has developed a retrofit for the packing unit that is quite elegant and functional - it is available for $20 (I think) and has the advantage of using O-rings that are replacable down the road, so theoretically you won't ever have to take the darn thing apart again.

 

I have used one of his replacement units, but I have also used the tool he supplies to pull the packing unit, cut out the closure seal of the packing unit and dig out the felt&rubber, then use the Vintagepens.com seals. It works pretty well. It takes a lot of gentle warming to get it done, and you have to be really careful not to strip the threads on the packing unit.

 

Also, note that some of the vac-filler balances, and I think it is only the very earliest ones, have a counter-threaded packing unit. I discovered one on a ebonized pearl vac-filler.

 

John

So if you have a lot of ink,

You should get a Yink, I think.

 

- Dr Suess

 

Always looking for pens by Baird-North, Charles Ingersoll, and nibs marked "CHI"

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