Restoring An Mb 146G (1950S) - My Journey

[siamackz]

The picture on the right side shows the filler only at the end of the first telescopic stage, in fact the second stage still has to start at this moment.

Not sure, but I expect the female threads of the large screw spindle - which is generating the second telescopic stage - are seriuosly worn or stripped.

This female secondary thread is cut at the entry of the smallest tube ,on which the piston seat is mounted at the other side.

The secondary stage threads are rather weak and sensible to wear out when movement is forced in case the piston is contaminated.

You can test easily if these threads are effectively stripped : screw the piston out as shown on your "Opened 2nd stage" picture, and then pull on the cork seat out.

In case you are able to pull the second stage fully out the threads are effectivly stripped .

Francis

Hi Francis, thanks for correcting me! I am not able to pull the piston out as you suggested - it doesnt budge. Its stuck completely, there is no wiggle at all.

 

The situation right now is that when I turn the blind cap it does not engage the piston for the first half of its movement till the blind cap unscrews and exposes the metal piston part with breather hole. Is this normal or is it supposed to engage the piston right from the first turn?

Then as I turn more it engages only the first phase of the piston. It does this very consistently almost as if this is how its supposed to be. Which s making me wonder, am I supposed to turn more to engage the second phase (but I cant because its stuck)

 

Should I use heat to try and loosen things up? Soak in WD 40?

 

What do you suggest? Thanks so much!

Edited December 11, 2017 by siamackz

[fountainbel]

There should at least be 0,2mm axial backlash in the larger second stage screw thread.

When you state :"Its stuck, no wiggle at all" this could be triggered by the outer diameter of the male threads which already climb-up - enter - in the highly worn inner diameter of the female threads. Coming In this situation the thread fit get finally blocked.

Soaking in WD40 will surely do no harm…..

Francis

[siamackz]

There should at least be 0,2mm axial backlash in the larger second stage screw thread.

When you state :"Its stuck, no wiggle at all" this could be triggered by the outer diameter of the male threads which already climb-up - enter - in the highly worn inner diameter of the female threads. Coming In this situation the thread fit get finally blocked.

Soaking in WD40 will surely do no harm…..

Francis

I will surely soak and report back.

 

Also, just so I am clear, we are saying that the smaller/inner section should be able to extend out - this is what I should be aiming for with my soaking, etc. i.e. soak and then try to make it extend. At present I cannot see any space at all between the outer section and inner section from the top - its like they're stuck to each from the inside. Maybe a soak will help.

 

I'll report back soon.

[siamackz]

Update:

 

I soaked in WD 40 for about an hour. No difference. Then I re-read every post on telescopic fillers on FPN. I noticed a few people that were new to telescopic fillers made the same mistake - they didn't engage the second phase thinking that the piston is stuck. So, this time I pushed a little harder and the piston moved further - but I don't think this is what it was supposed to do

 

I managed to fit it back in without any issues, and its back to normal. But...

 

Am I right in saying that the problem is that the 2nd phase inner mechanism is stuck?

 

Suggestions for the way forward, anyone?

Edited December 11, 2017 by siamackz

[siamackz]

Update:

 

The second stage opened up!

 

 

 

How? I don't know which one of these things did it, but here is all that I did:

1. Dry heat at the section where the 2nd stage starts and 1st stage ends.

2. Soaked this area in WD 40 overnight

3. Used the edges of a brass shim to try and dig into the gap between the 2nd and 1st stage sections.

4. But, this is what really did it. I realized that the 2nd stage was jammed. The only way to engage it was from the piston mechanism internally. So, I repeatedly twisted the mechanism quick and sharp, making it hit the point at which it gets stuck (but not too far beyond). Repeatedly. This started to push the piston out very little. I checked and say the second stage moved a tiny bit. I realized I had it. So, I kept doing this and the second stage opened out!

 

Next steps are to prepare a fresh cork and bathe it in paraffin oil + beeswax (50:50). And, I should be all set.

 

Will report back when the pen is ready and writing! Thank you for all you help and encouraging. It has been a truly rewarding and joyful journey!

Edited December 12, 2017 by siamackz

[siamackz]

And I'm set, thanks to all the help I received here!

 

Edited December 13, 2017 by siamackz

[fountainbel]

Well Done, Congratulations !

Francis

[Xof72000]

Great job, congrats !

 

And very pedagogic post !

[viju]

Well done and really glad to see the happy ending..

[siamackz]

Well Done, Congratulations !

Francis

Thank you for the kind guidance, Francis!

 

Great job, congrats !

 

And very pedagogic post !

Thank you! I hope this helps others that might find themselves in a similar situation .

 

Well done and really glad to see the happy ending..

Thank you boss!

[AleAli]

What a great journey! Congratulations!

[Gadgetman1]

Thank you so much for passing this thread!  I used my tweezers & unscrewed the brass slotted ring & removed the piston assembly.  It appears that the piston is made of cork.  (See photos).  
 

Where do I find a cork piston & how do I determine what the correct size should be?

[eckiethump]

With a more modern pen such as this, I would advise using "O" rings as can be purchased here https://www.vintagepens.com/catill_sacs_seals.shtml

I would NOT use anything other than cork seals on any vintage celluloid piston fill pen.

eckiethump

[Gadgetman1]

So I decided to make my own cork piston.  I purchased several different size corks, in case I mess it up.  My question is, how do I determine what width the cork piston needs to be?  The actual ink chamber in the barrel is more narrow than the blind cap area & my calipers won’t measure that deep into the barrel.  I haven’t tried taking the nib out, as the section doesn’t appear to be removable.  Anyone have suggestions?

[Gadgetman1]

Any suggestions on making my own cork piston?  How do I know what size it needs to be!