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Noodlers Boston Safety Pen


Dave_g

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Don't know what to say about the broken innards. But I suspect that the issue with ink on the section and threads is just an eyedropper being an eyedropper, and burping ink into the cap (I have had the same issue of late -- but given that the weather has had major swings in Pittsburgh this week, I'm not surprised).

Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth

"It's very nice, but frankly, when I signed that list for a P-51, what I had in mind was a fountain pen."

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safety pens are not supposed to burp. Capping the safety is akin to capping a bottle. I had the same issue. I suspect poor machining tolerance. Couldn't resolve it, even by adding my own seal. Had to send it back. The new one doesn't leak.

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By the way, I think I forgot to show a pic of what a fellow FPN'er managed to snag for me at the Commonwealth Pen show. The ink in it is just standard Skrip Red (new not vintage - wanted to start with something simple yet colorful). It is almost the same as the regular model in every respect except for two things.

 

1. The pen does not post. I never post my safeties. They're the only ones I don't. It usually drives me crazy if I don't post a pen, but the safeties I make a mental exception for. However, just to see if it would, this one does not.

2. On a RARE occasion, a very tiny bit of ink will get on the threads and I'll get it on my hand when I use it. It is inconsistent and I can't replicate it, but it does happen on this pen and it happens on NO other Noodlers Safeties. I'm guessing it may have to do with the fact that it is acrylic and not ebonite, but what do I know.

 

Otherwise, this is an identical pen with the REALLY cool feature of watching the ink inside of it. I freaking LOVE this! It gets attention from just about everyone. I have to remember to find a color that will really grab people's attention to it and keep it in there when I go places I want to start said conversations.

 

Be happy to answer any of your questions should you have any.

8mlpcBw.jpg

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The safety is supposed to post. Mine (two of them in black ebonite) post perfectly fine, the cap is tiny and weighs nothing.

 

Nathan has mentioned the ink onto the threads issue, a TINY, TINY film of silicone grease on the very lip of the top threads with the nib retracted solves the problem.

Selling a boatload of restored, fairly rare, vintage Japanese gold nib pens, click here to see (more added as I finish restoring them)

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That clear pen is so cool! Can you post video of the mechanism in action?

 

I had ink on the threads of my ebonite pen. I think it's manufacutring tolerance. It wasn't a big deal, but the annoyance of having to wipe it every time added up.

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The safety is supposed to post. Mine (two of them in black ebonite) post perfectly fine, the cap is tiny and weighs nothing.

 

Nathan has mentioned the ink onto the threads issue, a TINY, TINY film of silicone grease on the very lip of the top threads with the nib retracted solves the problem.

 

You're right. I recall the mention of a little silicone grease on the threads solving the problem. Only issue is when I use the pen it greases up my hands. It isn't so big of an issue that it bothers, but he was right, the issue exists, and I've never had it on the ebonite ones. I might try it though after I'm done with this round of ink. I put a very easy to clean ink in it at first because I wanted to simply try it, and then wash it out.

 

That clear pen is so cool! Can you post video of the mechanism in action?

 

I had ink on the threads of my ebonite pen. I think it's manufacutring tolerance. It wasn't a big deal, but the annoyance of having to wipe it every time added up.

I'll see what I can do for you regarding a video. In every respect except for the two I'd mentioned plus fact it is clear, it is the same as my other Noodler's safeties. I think I can do a little something to show how the ink moves around in these, though.

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you can grease the literal lip of the pen and not touch the threads and it solves the issue too.

Selling a boatload of restored, fairly rare, vintage Japanese gold nib pens, click here to see (more added as I finish restoring them)

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  • 2 weeks later...

One of the the things on my shopping list at the Ohio Pen Show this weekend is a potential vintage replacement nib for my Noodlers Safety. Can you guys give some shout outs for any particular nib replacements you've put in there that I can be on the lookout for?

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One of the the things on my shopping list at the Ohio Pen Show this weekend is a potential vintage replacement nib for my Noodlers Safety. Can you guys give some shout outs for any particular nib replacements you've put in there that I can be on the lookout for?

Waterman's Ideal #2 super flex from a sad broken 0552 1/2v I bought for 20 bucks on eVilbay (for the nib, of course!) The Waterman's feed, which had survived the poor pen being crunched in half, did not fit but the Boston Safety's feed keeps up well with the flex monster nib!

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Waterman's Ideal #2 super flex from a sad broken 0552 1/2v I bought for 20 bucks on eVilbay (for the nib, of course!) The Waterman's feed, which had survived the poor pen being crunched in half, did not fit but the Boston Safety's feed keeps up well with the flex monster nib!

Is the section of that pen okay? I have one but with that broken part, if you have no intention of fixing it we can talk privately!

 

 

 

I use Watermans # 2 in the Boston, some are better than others, preferably the "smaller" ones of size 2 go better. In flexing at least in my Boston is not kept so up to date, I use rather Stub tips.

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The waterman ideal #2 is literally perfect. It's what I have in mine.

Selling a boatload of restored, fairly rare, vintage Japanese gold nib pens, click here to see (more added as I finish restoring them)

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I have a Moore pen, and I don't think I will be able to repair it. Would the job from that pen for the Boston Safety?

Edited by Muncle

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I have a Moore pen, and I don't think I will be able to repair it. Would the job from that pen for the Boston Safety?

My understanding is it depends on the pen. Is it too a safety or something else. I am led to believe if it is the same as the pen the Noodler’s Safety is based on, then yes.

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My understanding is it depends on the pen. Is it too a safety or something else. I am led to believe if it is the same as the pen the Noodlers Safety is based on, then yes.

Just dug it out. It says "The Moore Pen 3" on the nib.

 

It is not a safety pen. It is a lever filler.

Edited by Muncle

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if it's a #3, -maybe-

 

I know the noodlers safety was designed for a #5 standard or #2 vintage nib.

Selling a boatload of restored, fairly rare, vintage Japanese gold nib pens, click here to see (more added as I finish restoring them)

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Just dug it out. It says "The Moore Pen 3" on the nib.

 

It is not a safety pen. It is a lever filler.

I think that would be a no, then. Unfortunately.

 

However, there is a need for those nibs. I am reasonably certain you could sell it for a good price. Or see if someone would be willing to attempt to fix whatever is wrong with it.

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I think that would be a no, then. Unfortunately.

 

However, there is a need for those nibs. I am reasonably certain you could sell it for a good price. Or see if someone would be willing to attempt to fix whatever is wrong with it.

Well, darn. Stops me from making a $60 experiment, I guess.

 

I finally got the own apart yesterday. There is the standard cleaning and sac replacement. But the capnis cracked, and the previous owner out scotch tape around it, now very yellowed and peeling. The colour has faded, and I am not sure how to bring it back to black. I have heard very mixed things about show polish. It is chased, so I don't want to destroy the pattern on it.

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  • 2 months later...

So speaking of apart, I just pulled one of my original "prototype" pens apart for the very first time (stopped writing after a year of almost daily use. Nib section became detached). I noticed the insides were different.

 

On one of these original "prototypes," (this one is #5, if you are curious), there is one o-ring in the center along with a sheath over where the two parts of the rod screw together.

 

However, I also have a later Chestnut model with two o-rings next to one another and no sheath over where the two parts of the rod connect. On the later model, I have had an awful time getting them together and the pen moving smoothly. But the prototype with the one o-ring and the sheath fit together perfectly and is now moving smoothly once again.

 

I know in the intro video, Nathan said the British ones had a second o-ring, but I don't think that's what the chestnut one has (the chestnut is a regular production model that was much later than that video).

 

Anyone else notice a difference in their inner workings? Have you noticed any durability differences too?

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  • 3 weeks later...

The replacement I got last year, while no longer seeping, was very tight to turn and extend and retract.

 

I finally got around to disassemble it. The section portion didn't have much clearance with the body. Took some sand paper and spun the shaft around a dozen times. The shaft moves smoothly now.

 

The nib might have baby bottom. Strokes don't start all the time. Another thing to investigate.

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