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  On 7/16/2021 at 5:34 PM, duckbillclinton said:

Has anyone ever noticed,  as soon as the tines are open, ink flow on a wide stroke is no longer just controlled by capillary action, but also relies on the ink film (bubble) created by the paper, 2 tines, breath hole (optional), and feed?  As soon as this thin film ruptures, railroad starts.  So to successfully maintain a stable ink film (bubble), you will guarantee a continuous wide stroke, and you can continuously writing this wide line till you run out of ink or paper.

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Very good point. I noticed this quite a while ago, and as a result I began playing with the ink, that is, adding surfactant into it, so that a stable ink film can be maintained. Adding surfactant can have side effects such as severe feathering, but nevertheless it is a rather cheap way of solving the railroading problem.

 

I've been working on partial differential equations, finite element analysis, etc., and I understand that a thorough description of the mathematics and physics behind flex nibs will require a ton of advanced tools, which is exactly what makes it impractical for most hobbyists - we would need supercomputers (or at least machines like a 64 core, 128 thread workstation) for high-accuracy simulations of ink flow (including ink-air exchange) in the feed, minimal surface generated by flowing ink and moving tines, and the force inside the tines. Such simulations were definitely not possible in the 1930s, yet people still make great flex nibs at that time.

 

Good mathematical theory and detailed numerical simulations will of course be very useful in factory designs of flex nibs, but when playing with flex nibs as a hobby, we need much cheaper techniques to get things done, such as the good old trial-and-error.

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  On 7/17/2021 at 12:02 AM, Topgunbai said:

 

Very good point. I noticed this quite a while ago, and as a result I began playing with the ink, that is, adding surfactant into it, so that a stable ink film can be maintained. Adding surfactant can have side effects such as severe feathering, but nevertheless it is a rather cheap way of solving the railroading problem.

 

I've been working on partial differential equations, finite element analysis, etc., and I understand that a thorough description of the mathematics and physics behind flex nibs will require a ton of advanced tools, which is exactly what makes it impractical for most hobbyists - we would need supercomputers (or at least machines like a 64 core, 128 thread workstation) for high-accuracy simulations of ink flow (including ink-air exchange) in the feed, minimal surface generated by flowing ink and moving tines, and the force inside the tines. Such simulations were definitely not possible in the 1930s, yet people still make great flex nibs at that time.

 

Good mathematical theory and detailed numerical simulations will of course be very useful in factory designs of flex nibs, but when playing with flex nibs as a hobby, we need much cheaper techniques to get things done, such as the good old trial-and-error.

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It's not just partial differential equation, minimal surface from the field study of discrete differential geometry also plays an important role on ink film.  From my previous post's photos, my sample design 1 uses crossflex mod, when the tines opened, the shape (geometry) of the ink film is a very complicated but also very simple SINGLE surface.  Minimal surface problem contains a large variety of allowable function sets (the simplest example would be parabolic functions, hyperbolic functions, and etc.).  My assumption would be:  If the conditions for forming an ink film did not fall under an allowable sets of minimal surface functions, the film will not form, or an existing film will rupture.  This turned out to be false!

 

Like another pen pal pointed out from the previous posts, flex nib design can also be done with trial and error.  In fact, when I came up with a plausible flex nib design model (or say flex nib modding methodology), I did not need to predict or solve any of the possible minimal surface related functions.  Instead, I built and observed my designs during use, and found that my overly concern of minimal surface problem is NOT necessary.  In fact, in an ideal world, with ideal ink, ideal paper, ideal nib, and so on, an ink film will ALWAYS form by following the minimal surface principal, it's a question of whether the film would form at the orientation as intended, meaning that, at least one edge of the surface is contacting the paper. In fact, in real world, the ink film indeed could form at the wrong place and resulting railroading.  We have seen it all the time.  When a nib's middle slit is too hydrophobic, opening up the tines will create an ink film for just a split of second, it will then retract upwards back to the pen feed by capillary action, the film had never touched the paper.  So, on the other hand, if ink film can be formed at the right place, then here we go, it's just a thin film equation problem.

 

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  On 7/16/2021 at 6:49 PM, txomsy said:

I think there are many ways to skin a cat.

 

Understanding in depth the physics and the mechanics is one.

 

Trial and error is the other. And my guess is that that one is the way the original nibs came about. That and luck (good or bad) in the sense that the quality of the materials they used rendered their steel less "rigid" than modern ones (where that "rigidity" has been largely sought after for a long time). Then you just try intuitively different design approaches until you get it.

 

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Knowing the science behind a proper flex nib design, can help us quickly resolve any problems we encountered in flex nib modding.  If a problem has several KNOWN contributing factors for failing, the results of failing is a combination of them, and it can be a very large number.  This could be way too many trial and errors, not to mention it also require the testing need to be done in a systematic way with good discipline.  For me, sometimes I could lost track on my test cases, and waste a lot of time to recall.  In a case of a problem having UNKNOWN number of contributing failing factors, random distribution dictates, you have a good chance will NEVER find the right answer(s) by trialing.  :)

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  On 7/17/2021 at 12:02 AM, Topgunbai said:

 

Very good point. I noticed this quite a while ago, and as a result I began playing with the ink, that is, adding surfactant into it, so that a stable ink film can be maintained. Adding surfactant can have side effects such as severe feathering, but nevertheless it is a rather cheap way of solving the railroading problem.

 

I've been working on partial differential equations, finite element analysis, etc., and I understand that a thorough description of the mathematics and physics behind flex nibs will require a ton of advanced tools, which is exactly what makes it impractical for most hobbyists - we would need supercomputers (or at least machines like a 64 core, 128 thread workstation) for high-accuracy simulations of ink flow (including ink-air exchange) in the feed, minimal surface generated by flowing ink and moving tines, and the force inside the tines. Such simulations were definitely not possible in the 1930s, yet people still make great flex nibs at that time.

 

Good mathematical theory and detailed numerical simulations will of course be very useful in factory designs of flex nibs, but when playing with flex nibs as a hobby, we need much cheaper techniques to get things done, such as the good old trial-and-error.

Expand  

 

Further add to my above reply, solution(s) found by trial and errors is(are) usually special case solution(s).  It does solve our problem, but at the same time it limits our view on the problem.  A general solution is more ideal, as it enables us to have a large variety of different nib designs.  Indeed, finding the general solution is hard, and applying it is beyond an average home DIY hobbyist's capabilities.  For me, I am absolutely sure, the solution I found is not the true ultimate general solution, it's far from it, but at least, it is a wide set of special solutions with clearly defined rule set, and it has enabled us to mod a flex nib with broaden design selections.

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  On 7/17/2021 at 1:37 AM, duckbillclinton said:

an ink film will ALWAYS form by following the minimal surface principal, it's a question of whether the film would form at the orientation as intended, meaning that, at least one edge of the surface is contacting the paper. In fact, in real world, the ink film indeed could form at the wrong place and resulting railroading

Expand  

 

I've experienced this phenomenon too, i.e. the ink film fails to touch the paper. At that time I was thinking that it was solely the shape of the tipping ("baby's bottom") that caused the problem. Now I realize that the geometry behind may be more complicated.

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Have anyone tried this on a cheaper pilot nib? (Kakuno, Metropolitan, etc?). I have a kakuno fine I really like that could really use some flex easing but I'm concerned that I may completely ruin the nib. I can get some line variation out of it but have to press hard enough to make a deeper mark on the paper.

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  On 7/17/2021 at 1:47 PM, MarioR81 said:

Have anyone tried this on a cheaper pilot nib? (Kakuno, Metropolitan, etc?). I have a kakuno fine I really like that could really use some flex easing but I'm concerned that I may completely ruin the nib. I can get some line variation out of it but have to press hard enough to make a deeper mark on the paper.

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Indeed, tried with great success.

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  On 7/17/2021 at 4:07 PM, MarioR81 said:

 

pics are much appreciated :)

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Well, I have made 2 pilot (compatible) steel nib mods, but gave both to some high school students as gifts.  Here are 2 photos taken by one of the kids (not very good quality).

 

It's a WingSung 698, uses the same nib design as Pilot's steel nib collections, pen feed is also a direct copy but cheaper made of pilot design (unlike WingSung's other cheaper Pilot nib compatible pens, those use a different feed design, much cheaper to make),  tip size originally is European pen maker's EF, and I grind it down to true Pilot EF with right oblique.

 

After all the nib modding and tip grinding, line width variation achieved is 0.35mm to 2.5mm, not too aggressive, but it writes nicely.  Sadly, the kid didn't take any writing sample photos.

 

 

mmexport1626584905991.jpg

mmexport1626584902422.jpg

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  On 7/16/2021 at 5:04 AM, duckbillclinton said:

wow, i m shocked.  not much response from the community, so is it worthy to write an article on flex nib mod...

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Hi.

Don't be shocked. It is summer time, many of us nerds enjoy sunlight outdoors - you can't get tan from computer screen backlight...

 

I'm looking forward to your theory lession and will read it with pleasure!

 

May I start with a first question: how to influence nib geometry so that the tines will open with the front slit remaining in V shape (the more narrow opening at the paper side)?

Or is such a behaviour not necessary?

One life!

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  On 7/18/2021 at 8:58 AM, InesF said:

Hi.

Don't be shocked. It is summer time, many of us nerds enjoy sunlight outdoors - you can't get tan from computer screen backlight...

 

I'm looking forward to your theory lession and will read it with pleasure!

 

May I start with a first question: how to influence nib geometry so that the tines will open with the front slit remaining in V shape (the more narrow opening at the paper side)?

Or is such a behaviour not necessary?

Expand  

 

Hmm, hope I read your question correctly...  Assuming the material used, cold work process, and nib sizing (say #6 nib) stay the same, then the curvature of the nib plays an important role on tine opening angle, flatter construct (starting from near the breath hole down to the tip) will reduce tine opening. 

 

Just imagine we have a small strip of flat paper card, let's cut a slit in the middle (similar to a pen nib), then we press it down to a hard, flat, and smooth surface, the slit is not going to open much. 

 

As contrary, a real life example, I have 2 #6 Bock titanium nibs, very disappointing experience (comparing with the good old almighty OMAS Titanium nibs), they flex very little and too easy to spring, so I took the nib out, carefully using hand tools to increase the curvature, the results are quite good, the tines open with wider angle (wider width also), feels stiffer and no longer spring even I press down hard (but not too hard, obviously). 

 

Greater curvature will increase the tine opening angle, and also increase the resistance for bending, so the nib will become stiffer.  This also means opening up the tines required more strength, so I use hand tool again, to make the tip tilt up a bit (similar to the classic and most-pleasant-to-write Sheaffer integrated nib), that solved all the problems. 

 

*I will post a picture of this modified Bock #6 titanium nib later on.*

 

The newer gen of Japanese Platinum 3776 nib is exactly the type that comes with a flat construct, the tines can barely open even with a very hard pressure.

 

The other parts of a nib's geometry play less important role than curvature.  Longer slit cut will increase the tine opening width, but will not affect the angle (think of the small strip paper card example).  Thicker nib construct increase nib stiffness and the chance to spring.  Wider nib shoulders affects nib's front section's stiffness (from breath hole to the tip).

 

I will add more if I can think of anything that is missing.  Still though, hope I got your question right, lots writing here, LOL

 

Also, I recommend you Google search and read Amadeus W's Fountain Pen Designs website, very informative.

Edited by duckbillclinton
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  On 7/18/2021 at 5:32 AM, duckbillclinton said:

 

Well, I have made 2 pilot (compatible) steel nib mods, but gave both to some high school students as gifts.  Here are 2 photos taken by one of the kids (not very good quality).

 

It's a WingSung 698, uses the same nib design as Pilot's steel nib collections, pen feed is also a direct copy but cheaper made of pilot design (unlike WingSung's other cheaper Pilot nib compatible pens, those use a different feed design, much cheaper to make),  tip size originally is European pen maker's EF, and I grind it down to true Pilot EF with right oblique.

 

After all the nib modding and tip grinding, line width variation achieved is 0.35mm to 2.5mm, not too aggressive, but it writes nicely.  Sadly, the kid didn't take any writing sample photos.

 

 

mmexport1626584905991.jpg

mmexport1626584902422.jpg

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Cool, how's the ink flow? Also how do you make the vertical slit? The dremel I have makes a slit too large. 

 

 

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  On 7/18/2021 at 1:33 PM, MarioR81 said:

 

Cool, how's the ink flow? Also how do you make the vertical slit? The dremel I have makes a slit too large. 

 

 

Expand  

 

Ink flow is very good, the feed has been heavily modified.  Pilot's feed design is one of the best in the industry for modding, it's top notch and bar none.  The feed contains 2 grooves, 1 groove for ink flow (capillary action), another groove for air breathing, so widen both with a Razer (I also use a 0.15mm micro diamond cutter disk by hand to polish and rough the groove, the same cutter disk is also used on a dremel to cut the narrow slit), it will result the best possible ink flow (please be gentle though, don't go too wide on the grooves, you can't bend the rules of capillary and air pressure).  The finished pen is a super flex, (nearly) Never skips nor railroads.

 

Once I start writing my article with a new thread, I will give full details on every tool I use and the tricks to get things done properly.  There will be a lot of surprises, I promise, but it will be a while before I redo all my experiments with verification.

Edited by duckbillclinton
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Regarding feedback...

 

I once was in a meeting with a handful of Nobel Prizes in Chemistry. Not that I am anybody, 'cos I ain't. At the time I was deep into Computational Chemistry, and over the dining (or was it lunch?) table I took to ask them what they though about Theoretical Chemistry.

 

Their answer was pragmatical: most problems are easier to solve in the lab with due ingenuity, plus you would have the experimental confirmation. I've posed similar questions to great names in Physics and got similar answers, which at the time I found odd, since we were building a computer Grid to treat (among other things) the data from the Large Hadron Collider at CERN and expected they'd value more Theoretical Physics. And, when I talk about Bioinformatics or Biocomputing I always insist that any prediction shouldn't be trusted until experimentally confirmed.

 

Where I am getting at is that we are now in sort of a historical anomaly. Prior to the metal age knowledge of metals was likely limited. For a few thousand years you would have a myriad of artisans devoting their whole life to working with metals with their hands and trying to better each other, trying all sorts of errors, giving them form with their own hands, testing them, building on their received knowledge and expanding it.

 

Then came the age of the machine and automation, now all that practical, experiential (and experimental) knowledge is vanishing and we are left with knowledge about the machines to make what was deemed at one point the best option for whichever reasons, and only a handful of artisan smiths who play every single hour with alloys, experiment, test them and know all their ins and outs.

 

Surely if one were to ask an artisan iron smith that had specialized in small, flexy sheets of steel, working every day at making flexy iron thingies, that person would likely know most there is to know or at least have the intuition for it and get at it in a snap.

 

Missing an expert in the field, we, amateurs, are left with either theoretical physics/engineering, or with trial and error until we build up enough knowledge to match an expert of yonder.

 

In less words, while advanced physics may be a good approach, good old trial and error coupled with good intuition may result in favorable results as well (and maybe faster).

 

OTOH, I suppose you have already gone over Amadeus' ingeneering blog https://fountainpendesign.wordpress.com

 

Seems to me he has already done much of this work as well.

If you are to be ephemeral, leave a good scent.

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  On 7/18/2021 at 6:45 PM, txomsy said:

Regarding feedback...

 

I once was in a meeting with a handful of Nobel Prizes in Chemistry. Not that I am anybody, 'cos I ain't. At the time I was deep into Computational Chemistry, and over the dining (or was it lunch?) table I took to ask them what they though about Theoretical Chemistry.

 

Their answer was pragmatical: most problems are easier to solve in the lab with due ingenuity, plus you would have the experimental confirmation. I've posed similar questions to great names in Physics and got similar answers, which at the time I found odd, since we were building a computer Grid to treat (among other things) the data from the Large Hadron Collider at CERN and expected they'd value more Theoretical Physics. And, when I talk about Bioinformatics or Biocomputing I always insist that any prediction shouldn't be trusted until experimentally confirmed.

 

Where I am getting at is that we are now in sort of a historical anomaly. Prior to the metal age knowledge of metals was likely limited. For a few thousand years you would have a myriad of artisans devoting their whole life to working with metals with their hands and trying to better each other, trying all sorts of errors, giving them form with their own hands, testing them, building on their received knowledge and expanding it.

 

Then came the age of the machine and automation, now all that practical, experiential (and experimental) knowledge is vanishing and we are left with knowledge about the machines to make what was deemed at one point the best option for whichever reasons, and only a handful of artisan smiths who play every single hour with alloys, experiment, test them and know all their ins and outs.

 

Surely if one were to ask an artisan iron smith that had specialized in small, flexy sheets of steel, working every day at making flexy iron thingies, that person would likely know most there is to know or at least have the intuition for it and get at it in a snap.

 

Missing an expert in the field, we, amateurs, are left with either theoretical physics/engineering, or with trial and error until we build up enough knowledge to match an expert of yonder.

 

In less words, while advanced physics may be a good approach, good old trial and error coupled with good intuition may result in favorable results as well (and maybe faster).

 

OTOH, I suppose you have already gone over Amadeus' ingeneering blog https://fountainpendesign.wordpress.com

 

Seems to me he has already done much of this work as well.

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 I am speechless. :)

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  On 7/17/2021 at 2:35 AM, Topgunbai said:

 

I've experienced this phenomenon too, i.e. the ink film fails to touch the paper. At that time I was thinking that it was solely the shape of the tipping ("baby's bottom") that caused the problem. Now I realize that the geometry behind may be more complicated.

Expand  

 

My previous mentioning of thin film equation is completely wrong and irrelevant.

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I think the equations are likely a bit more complex. One needs to consider not only the flexibility gained, or the ink flow characteristics, but also the durability of the solution: if flexing a modified nib may result in undue stress, the metal may suffer fatigue and sooner or later break or suffer plastic distortion.

 

For that one also needs to consider the temper of the metal and the distribution of stress lines through the nib. Amadeus' blog has many interesting tips.

 

From the little I know about simulated annealing, steel can be tempered to be fragile yet strong or flexible but deformable, with a large range of variations, and a good nib probably needs to hit the sweet spot in the line for optimal performance. The further one departs from it, the easier it will be that the nib will break or deform, maybe at the first use or maybe after some time or only after some abuse, but that needs to be considered too. It might be that not any steel nib is susceptible for flex modification.

 

It will also depend likely on the thickness of the steel sheet. A thinner one will be more flexible but also likely less resilient. A thicker one will require more pressure and possible be more resistant. It is important not to forget that today's nibs were selected to be strong and most resistant to deformation in order to compete with ballpoint pens.

 

Stress lines will depend on nib shape. This may have little impact at the beginning, when the metal is still strong, but if the cuts are too deep or located in the wrong place, stress will be redirected and concentrate on possibly suboptimal points, leading to increased metal fatigue and, after some time, damage.

 

If I were to approach it -and had the time, which I don't- I would start thinking of alternative designs, testing them in practice and when one seemed to work, I'd be modeling it in the computer to see the distribution of stress lines in an attempt to predict its resilience. Then, I'd have to use (close to abuse threshold) every day to confirm if it can stand use and how long. Probably what nib-makers of old did, in a time when pens were used 10-12 hours a day 6 days a week by all users that would result in prompt feedback. Now it would take one of us a lot longer.

 

The reason for starting with design is that the info is readily available, one needs only look at flex dip nibs to find out suggestions for designs, whereas testing different alloys might have been an option for nib-makers of old (who could just order a sample sheet of metal and use it in their own manual nib-making presses to get test nibs, but is mostly limited to available nibs today. Plus, in the old times, it would be easier in that one would have the tactile experience to know how a good nib should "feel" in the hand as opposed to suboptimal materials and nowadays this experience is rare.

 

In hindsight, I think that the current status was driven by stock market forces: in order to compete with BPs, the best approach for FPs would have be to lower costs as well, so that schools would continue favoring them. At the time most probably thought it would undercut profit margins and lead to company decapitalization by investors, leading them to increase margins to remain attractive and instead then forced them to adagpt to new users grown with BPs by strengthening the nibs. Which is what we have now. Nails.

 

One may wonder if a cheap FP would have allowed them enough added sales to be justifiable, possibly aided by strong marketing campaigns touting the beauty and elegance of FP line-width-variating scripts over the dullness of BPs as a distinction trait; but since the market was already saturated with FPs before the advent of BPs (because there was no other sensible option), it is doubtful they could have increased sales by reducing prices.

 

One can also wonder why did makers not keep a line of flex pens for the knowledgeable, but I suppose they did until most users were so used to BPs that demand for flexibility was negligible or could not justify keeping the lines.

 

This leaves us with modern nibs engineered to be hard, strong and rigid.

 

There have been suggestions of reducing modern steel nib thickness to increase flexibility. This might be an option, but it is too difficult to master and do accurately from an amateur point of view. Which leaves us, again with modifying the overall shape in a way that increases flexibility but maintains bouncyness and springyness long enough to be practical.

 

The problem with ink flow may be dependent on the nib metal alloy and feed material (and surface tension) used, or may be attacked by modifying the ink. Ideally one would prefer a solution that requires no ink modification. And possibly that can adapt to most inks. I'm thinking of the Eversharp manifold/regulator nibs as a possible solution, but that is even more difficult to achieve for an amateur.

 

Booofff... too long a post already. Who said s/he wanted discussion?

If you are to be ephemeral, leave a good scent.

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As for problems with the ink film reaching the paper, I cannot speak to the science of the ink, but I can speak from a lot of experience with dip pens having trouble with ink that won't reach the paper. What I've found is that the vast majority of the time, the issue is the surface of the underside of the nib has some kind of interfering coating, usually oil, that prevents full flow of the ink. This usually happens when the underside is touched by a person, and their skin oils on the nib will prevent the ink from flowing well down the slit. Even though a fountain pen is not reliant on the hydrogen bonding in the ink to keep the surface tension as it gathers on the back of the nib, like a dip pen, instead the feed literally feeds the ink to the back of the nib, down the slit and to the paper. If the back of the nib has a hydrophobic coating (like skin oils) on it, even in a fountain pen, this will prevent the ink from flowing down the slit all the way to the point like it should. The way to solve this problem is, obviously, to remove the oil and not touch it with bare skin while working on it. 

 

Just my 2-cents from lots of experience with highly flexible dip pens and ink flow problems. 

 

“When the historians of education do equal and exact justice to all who have contributed toward educational progress, they will devote several pages to those revolutionists who invented steel pens and blackboards.” V.T. Thayer, 1928

 

Check out my Steel Pen Blog. As well as The Esterbrook Project.

"No one is exempt from talking nonsense; the mistake is to do it solemnly."

-Montaigne

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  On 7/19/2021 at 1:31 PM, AAAndrew said:

As for problems with the ink film reaching the paper, I cannot speak to the science of the ink, but I can speak from a lot of experience with dip pens having trouble with ink that won't reach the paper. What I've found is that the vast majority of the time, the issue is the surface of the underside of the nib has some kind of interfering coating, usually oil, that prevents full flow of the ink. This usually happens when the underside is touched by a person, and their skin oils on the nib will prevent the ink from flowing well down the slit. Even though a fountain pen is not reliant on the hydrogen bonding in the ink to keep the surface tension as it gathers on the back of the nib, like a dip pen, instead the feed literally feeds the ink to the back of the nib, down the slit and to the paper. If the back of the nib has a hydrophobic coating (like skin oils) on it, even in a fountain pen, this will prevent the ink from flowing down the slit all the way to the point like it should. The way to solve this problem is, obviously, to remove the oil and not touch it with bare skin while working on it. 

 

Just my 2-cents from lots of experience with highly flexible dip pens and ink flow problems. 

Expand  

 

I write with dip pen nearly every day and I can attest to this. And I'd add that flow issues happen when the ink is too thick. I have a small ink well that doesn't seem to hold water as well as a screw cap bottle so I may need to add a bit of water to thin out (currently using W&N calligraphy ink). Fountain pen inks seem to be too liquid for dip pens, at least the ones I've tried.

 

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    • lamarax 11 Apr 0:49
      Of course trade wars are much, more important than the prices of consumer products. The true intention is to weaken the dollar, so that the Chinese start selling their US held debt. But the dollar being the defacto world reserve currency, it doesn't lose value that easily. So the idea is to target trade through artificially raising prices. Problem is, inflation will skyrocket. Good luck with that.
    • lamarax 11 Apr 0:33
      Guess who loses
    • lamarax 11 Apr 0:30
      In Europe, the only (truly) American produced brand is Esterbrook AFAIK. Tariffs will make Esterbrook products compete on the same level as some high-end European brands (let's say Aurora), while clearly the product is manufactured to compete on a much lower price level.
    • lamarax 11 Apr 0:24
      So let's say you want to buy a Montblanc or whatever. You pay the current tariff on top of the usual price, unless your local distributor is willing to absorb (some) of the difference
    • lamarax 11 Apr 0:20
      Tariffs are paid by the importer, not the exporter.
    • TheQuillDeal 10 Apr 2:44
      Can anyone explain how the tariff war will affect fountain pen prices??
    • Penguincollector 30 Mar 15:07
      Oh yes, pictures are on the “ I got this pen today” thread.
    • lectraplayer 29 Mar 9:19
      Is it here yet?
    • Penguincollector 26 Mar 5:00
      I just got the tracking information for my Starwalker💃🏻
    • T.D. Rabbit 3 Mar 12:46
      @lamarax I am horrified... And slightly intrigued. But mostly just scared.
    • lamarax 2 Mar 20:38
      Oh well. In case of failure you can always wring the paper to have a nice -albeit somewhat stale- cup of coffee back.
    • T.D. Rabbit 2 Mar 10:20
      @Astronymus I could use cornstarch... Or i could distill it and make it very concentrated.
    • T.D. Rabbit 2 Mar 10:20
      @lamarax That's what I used! (In reply to black coffee).. But the milk might not be good at all for paper.
    • Grayfeather 2 Mar 0:08
      Good day, all.
    • Gertrude F 20 Feb 17:58
      Sorry think I posted this in the wrong place. Used to be a user, just re-upped. Be kind. 😑
    • Gertrude F 20 Feb 17:56
      Looking to sell huge lot of pretty much every Man 200 made - FP, BP, MP, one or two RBs. Does anyone have a suggestion for a bulk purhase house? Thanks - and hope this doesn't violate any rules.
    • lamarax 17 Feb 18:05
      Cappuccino should work. Frothy milk also helps to lubricate the nib. But it has to be made by a barista.
    • Astronymus 17 Feb 16:19
      YOu might need to thicken the coffee with something. I admit I have no idea with what. But I'm pretty sure it would work.
    • asnailmailer 3 Feb 17:35
      it is incowrimo time and only very few people are tempting me
    • lamarax 31 Jan 21:34
      Try black coffee. No sugar.
    • T.D. Rabbit 31 Jan 8:11
      Coffee is too light to write with though I've tried.
    • Astronymus 29 Jan 21:46
      You can use coffee and all other kinds of fluid with a glas pen. 😉
    • Roger Zhao 29 Jan 14:37
      chocolate is yummy
    • Bucefalo 17 Jan 9:59
      anyone sells vacumatic push button shafts
    • stxrling 13 Jan 1:25
      Are there any threads or posts up yet about the California Pen Show in February, does anyone know?
    • lamarax 10 Jan 20:27
      Putting coffee in a fountain pen is far more dangerous
    • asnailmailer 9 Jan 0:09
      Don't drink the ink
    • zug zug 8 Jan 16:48
      Coffee inks or coffee, the drink? Both are yummy though.
    • LandyVlad 8 Jan 5:37
      I hear the price of coffee is going up. WHich is bad because I like coffee.
    • asnailmailer 6 Jan 14:43
      time for a nice cup of tea
    • Just J 25 Dec 1:57
      @liauyat re editing profile: At forum page top, find the Search panel. Just above that you should see your user name with a tiny down arrow [🔽] alongside. Click that & scroll down to CONTENT, & under that, Profile. Click that, & edit 'til thy heart's content!
    • liapuyat 12 Dec 12:20
      I can't seem to edit my profile, which is years out of date, because I've only returned to FPN again recently. How do you fix it?
    • mattaw 5 Dec 14:25
      @lantanagal did you do anything to fix that? I get that page every time I try to go to edit my profile...
    • Penguincollector 30 Nov 19:14
      Super excited to go check out the PDX Pen Bazaar today. I volunteered to help set up tables. It should be super fun, followed by Xmas tree shopping. 😁
    • niuben 30 Nov 10:41
      @Nurse Ratchet
    • Nurse Ratchet 30 Nov 2:49
      Newbie here!!! Helloall
    • Emes 25 Nov 23:31
      jew
    • Misfit 9 Nov 2:38
      lantanagal, I’ve only seen that happen when you put someone on the ignore list. I doubt a friend would do that.
    • lantanagal 7 Nov 19:01
      UPDATE - FIXED NOW Exact message is: Requested page not available! Dear Visitor of the Fountain Pen Nuthouse The page you are requesting to visit is not available to you. You are not authorised to access the requested page. Regards, The FPN Admin Team November 7, 2024
    • lantanagal 7 Nov 18:59
      UPDATE - FIXED NOW Trying to send a pen friend a reply to a message, keep getting an error message to say I don't have access. Anyone any ideas? (tried logging our and back in to no avail)
    • Dr.R 2 Nov 16:58
      Raina’s
    • fireant 2 Nov 1:36
      Fine-have you had a nibmeister look at it?
    • carlos.q 29 Oct 15:19
      @FineFinerFinest: have you seen this thread? https://www.fountainpennetwor...nging-pelikan-nibs/#comments
    • FineFinerFinest 24 Oct 8:52
      No replies required to my complaints about the Pelikan. A friend came to the rescue with some very magnification equipment - with the images thrown to a latge high res screen. Technology is a wonderful thing. Thanks to Mercian for the reply. I had been using the same paper & ink for sometime when the "singing" started. I have a theory but no proof that nibs get damaged when capping the pen. 👍
    • Mercian 22 Oct 22:28
      @FineFinerFinest: sometimes nib-'singing' can be lessened - or even cured - by changing the ink that one is putting through the pen, or the paper that one is using. N.b. *sometimes*. Good luck
    • Bluetaco 22 Oct 22:04
      howdy
    • FineFinerFinest 21 Oct 5:23
      I'm not expecting any replies to my question about the singing Pelikan nib. It seems, from reading the background, that I am not alone. It's a nice pen. It's such a pity Pelikan can't make decent nibs. I have occasionally met users who tell me how wonderful their Pelikan nib is. I've spent enough money to know that not everyone has this experience. I've worked on nibs occasionally over forty years with great success. This one has me beaten. I won't be buying any more Pelikan pens. 👎
    • FineFinerFinest 21 Oct 4:27
      I've had a Pelikan M805 for a couple of years now and cannot get the nib to write without singing. I've worked on dozens of nibs with great success. Ny suggestion about what's going wrong? 😑
    • Bhakt 12 Oct 5:45
      Any feedback in 100th anniversary Mont Blanc green pens?
    • Glens pens 8 Oct 15:08
      @jordierocks94 i happen to have platinum preppy that has wrote like (bleep) since i bought it my second pen....is that something you would wish to practice on?
    • jordierocks94 4 Oct 6:26
      Hello all - New here. My Art studies have spilled me into the ft pen world where I am happily submerged and floating! I'm looking to repair some cheap pens that are starving for ink yet filled, and eventually get new nibs; and development of repair skills (an even longer learning curve than my art studies - lol). Every hobby needs a hobby, eh ...
    • The_Beginner 18 Sept 23:35
      horse notebooks if you search the title should still appear though it wont show you in your proflie
    • Jayme Brener 16 Sept 22:21
      Hi, guys. I wonder if somebody knows who manufactured the Coro fountain pens.
    • TheHorseNotebooks 16 Sept 13:11
      Hello, it's been ages for me since I was here last time. I had a post (http://www.fountainpennetwork...-notebooks/?view=getnewpost) but I see that it is no longer accessible. Is there anyway to retrieve that one?
    • Refujio Rodriguez 16 Sept 5:39
      I have a match stick simplomatic with a weidlich nib. Does anyone know anything about this pen?
    • The_Beginner 15 Sept 16:11
      dusty yes, glen welcome
    • Glens pens 11 Sept 1:22
      Hello, Im new to FPN I'm so happy to find other foutain penattics. collecting almost one year ,thought I would say hello to everyone.
    • DustyBin 8 Sept 14:34
      I haven't been here for ages... do I take it that private sales are no longer allowed? Also used to be a great place to sell and buy some great pens
    • Sailor Kenshin 1 Sept 12:37
      Lol…
    • JungleJim 1 Sept 1:55
      Perhaps it's like saying Beetlejuice 3 times to get that person to appear, though with @Sailor Kenshin you only have to say it twice?
    • Sailor Kenshin 31 Aug 21:06
      ?
    • Duffy 29 Aug 19:31
      @Sailor Kenshin @Sailor Kenshin
    • Seney724 26 Aug 22:07
    • Diablo 26 Aug 22:05
      Thank you so much, Seney724. I really appreciate your help!
    • Seney724 26 Aug 21:43
      I have no ties or relationship. Just a very happy customer. He is a very experienced Montblanc expert.
    • Seney724 26 Aug 21:42
      I strongly recommend Kirk Speer at https://www.penrealm.com/
    • Diablo 26 Aug 21:35
      @Seney724. The pen was recently disassembled and cleaned, but the nib and feed were not properly inserted into the holder. I'm in Maryland.
    • Diablo 26 Aug 21:32
      @Seney724. The nib section needs to be adjusted properly.
    • Seney724 26 Aug 18:16
      @Diablo. Where are you? What does it need?
    • Diablo 26 Aug 16:58
      Seeking EXPERIENCED, REPUTABLE service/repair for my 149. PLEASE help!!!
    • Penguincollector 19 Aug 19:42
      @Marta Val, reach out to @terim, who runs Peyton Street Pens and is very knowledgeable about Sheaffer pens
    • Marta Val 19 Aug 14:35
      Hello, could someone recommend a reliable venue: on line or brick and mortar in Fairfax, VA or Long Island, NY to purchase the soft parts and a converter to restore my dad's Sheaffer Legacy? please. Thanks a mill.
    • The_Beginner 18 Aug 2:49
      is there a guy who we can message to find a part for us with a given timelimit if so please let me know his name!
    • virtuoso 16 Aug 15:15
      what happene to the new Shaeffer inks?
    • Scribs 14 Aug 17:09
      fatehbajwa, in Writing Instruments, "Fountain Pens + Dip Pens First Stop" ?
    • fatehbajwa 14 Aug 12:17
      Back to FPN after 14 years. First thing I noticed is that I could not see a FS forum. What has changed? 🤔
    • Kika 5 Aug 10:22
      Are there any fountain pen collectors in Qatar?
    • T.D. Rabbit 31 July 18:58
      Ahh okay, thanks!
    • Scribs 29 July 18:51
      @ TDRabbit, even better would be in Creative Expressions area, subform The Write Stuff
    • T.D. Rabbit 29 July 11:40
      Okay, thanks!
    • JungleJim 29 July 0:46
      @T.D. Rabbit Try posting it in the "Chatter Forum". You have to be logged in to see it.
    • T.D. Rabbit 28 July 17:54
      Hello! Is there a thread anywhere 'round here where one can post self-composed poetry? If not, would it be alright if I made one? I searched on google, but to no avail...
    • OldFatDog 26 July 19:41
      I have several Parker Roller Ball & Fiber Tip refills in the original packaging. Where and how do I sell them? The couple that I've opened the ink still flowed when put to paper. Also if a pen would take the foller ball refill then it should take the fiber tip as well? Anyway it's been awhile and I'm want to take my message collection beyond the few pieces that I have... Meaning I don't have a Parker these refills will fit in 🙄
    • RegDiggins 23 July 12:40
      Recently was lucky enough to buy a pristine example of the CF crocodile ball with the gold plating. Then of course I faced the same problem we all have over the years ,of trying to find e refill. Fortunately I discovered one here in the U.K. I wonder if there are other sources which exist in other countries, by the way they were not cheap pen
    • The_Beginner 20 July 20:35
      Hows it going guys i have a code from pen chalet that i wont use for 10% off and it ends aug 31st RC10AUG its 10% off have at it fellas
    • T.D. Rabbit 19 July 9:33
      Somewhat confusing and off-putting ones, as said to me by my very honest friends. I don't have an X account though :<
    • piano 19 July 8:41
      @The Devil Rabbit what kind of? Let’s go to X (twitter) with #inkdoodle #inkdoodleFP
    • Mort639 17 July 1:03
      I have a Conway Stewart Trafalgar set. It was previously owned by actor Russell Crowe and includes a letter from him. Can anyone help me with assessing its value?
    • Sailor Kenshin 15 July 17:41
      There must be a couple of places here to share artworks.
    • T.D. Rabbit 15 July 12:45
      Hullo! I really like making ink doodles, and I'd like to share a few. Anywhere on the site I can do so? Thanks in advance!
    • Sailor Kenshin 6 July 17:58
      Pay It Forward.
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