Parker 51 Cap Clutch Ring Removal Idea

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I have a fairly dented Parker 51 cap that I'd like to take the inner cap and innards out for use with an Ariel Kullock fantasy cap. Mine has a metallic clutch ring with oval shapes. I know that there is a special tool for its removal, but it is expensive and not a worthwhile purchase for me.

 

So I came up with an idea, inspired by my watchmaking caseback removal experiences.

 

The plan: supergluing the clutch ring to some kind of a bolt. Then I'd pull the bolt from the cap to remove the clutch ring, and then dissolve them apart with a solvent that will only dissolve the superglue.

 

Does anyone here think this will work? I'm trying to see what might be an obstacle, but if the only thing the special tool does it to grip the ring, I'm thinking the superglue will do the same. Would appreciate any input, thanks.

 

[mitto]

First, I assume you want to take the clutch out of the cap since the clutch ring is on the pen and not inside the cap. Second, applying the super glue to the clutch and bolt would glue the clutch to the inside of the cap much stronger than it would glue the bolt to the clutch. Third, the clutch is secured inside the cap by inwardly bent lips of the cap especiall in the gold caps.

 

Also the clutch insertion into the cap, I believe, is trickier than removing it from the cap as applying force without using the propper tool would result in its bending and twisting inside the cap.

 

Ron Zorn May chime in to explain the issue more accurately.

[Ron Z]

Nitpicky comment: Your post threw me off. The clutch ring is on the barrel. The clutch itself is a stainless piece about 1" long that has 4 or 6 "fingers" depending on when it was made.

 

The fact that I don't like the superglue idea (I don't like superglue in general) I think that the glue will not do the trick. The edge of the cap lip is rolled over, and it can take a fair bit of force to pull the clutch out, even with the right tools.

There was a thread recently where someone made a tool that grips the inside edge of the clutch and jacks it out of the cap. This is a problem for pens with a 1st year cap because the clutch is longer and goes all of the way down to the inner cap. This means that you have to grip at the back end of the clutch, not the inside end.

 

Stuart Hawkinson makes one that I've used for over a decade now that has fingers that fit into the gaps in the cap clutch. Turning the back end spreads the fingers, which then grip the back end of the clutch so it's pulling instead of pushing the inner cap out. It works very well, and does not damage the clutch. Stuart also sells a mandrel that is a precise fit for a 51 cap, which also works well. With careful work and close examination of the cap, it is possible to get all of the dents out.

I do recommend pushing the fingers in a bit to tighten the clutch, which has usually loosened over time from pressure as the cap is put on the barrel.

Reinserting is not a bit deal, and can be pressed back in. Sometimes the clutch catches on the cap lip, in which case you need to shave a little off of the inside edge of the cap lip where it was rolled over so that the clutch can slide past without getting snagged and bending.

The other alternative is to send the cap out to be done. I charge $35 to de-ding, and $50 to deding a lustraloy cap and refrost with the appropriate treatment - Vac and aerometric caps are done differently.

[fountainbel]

Hi all,

I've made me a P51 clutch extractor approximately 9 years ago and still use it successfully.

See :https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/68441-prototype-fountainbel-p51-clutch-extractor-tool/

As Ron rightfully remarked, gripping with a tool behind the back edge of the clutch the risks are high one deforms the clutch . My tool grips effectively in the lengthwise slots of the clutch , avoiding any deformation.

While the collet was initially made from hard bronze, I finally made it from hardened steel, avoiding the collet gripping edges shave off gradually by the sharp edges of the clutch slots. Note I never open the cap entry to facilitate the extraction.

Francis

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Ah, very good to know. I am stepping away from the super glue idea for now. Thank you for all your sage advice.

[josepllcs]

Hi all,

I've made me a P51 clutch extractor approximately 9 years ago and still use it successfully.

See :https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/68441-prototype-fountainbel-p51-clutch-extractor-tool/

As Ron rightfully remarked, gripping with a tool behind the back edge of the clutch the risks are high one deforms the clutch . My tool grips effectively in the lengthwise slots of the clutch , avoiding any deformation.

While the collet was initially made from hard bronze, I finally made it from hardened steel, avoiding the collet gripping edges shave off gradually by the sharp edges of the clutch slots. Note I never open the cap entry to facilitate the extraction.

Francis

Dear Francis,

 

I have been looking for this tool but it seems that there is no one like yours available in the market. I think it's a good idea to catch the clutch from below, not above, since you prevent bending it. Are you planning to produce some of these tools?

[fountainbel]

Dear Francis,

 

I have been looking for this tool but it seems that there is no one like yours available in the market. I think it's a good idea to catch the clutch from below, not above, since you prevent bending it. Are you planning to produce some of these tools?

 

Hi Josepllcs,

No, I will not starting making a new series of this tool, the collet is too difficult to make by hand

I've just looked in my toolbox and I still have one harden 5 notches - i.e. 6 "clutch fingers"- spare collet, so I could complete one tool.

Please send me a PM when interested.

Francis