New Member With An Objective

[CameronB]

Greetings!

 

i'm Cam.

 

I have a history of cheap FP usage, but have strayed. I stopped using when i ruined a white work shirt years ago...

 

Today is a new day. I've been researching a major project I'm about to embark on, which will take years, and I keep finding myself on the fountain pen network, for guidance and research, so It makes sense to join. Hopefully my experience will enable me to return the favor...

 

I begin with a BIG "THANK YOU", because much of my research has met with meaningful success as a result of the contributions & research of many members in the FPN. I owe you a debt of gratitude!

 

My project - To hand write the Bible. What I have concluded so far is the following (I'm prepared to change my mind as new information is discovered)

1. Tomoe River Paper

2. TWSBI ECO fountain pin F nib

 

I love the ink colors, I need enduring Ink

I'm looking for ink that will hold its edge, will stay sharp after it dries, and when i use the Bible, which I will regularly, won't fade away or lose its color. (I know nothing is permanent)...

 

With respect to ink, I'm still researching, and have seen significant research done here, but I still have a couple questions.

 

My current plan is to develop 32 page 'signatures'. The challenge is that I will likely make a mistake every so often. Crossing out and leaving mistakes is something I'd prefer to avoid.

 

1. Is there any ink that allows for rapid cleanup/removal (as a result of a mistake), that will become durable after it has dried / cured? (assuming Tomoe River)

 

2. Or, to be less proscriptive, is there an alternative approach that allows FP+ink on thin, FP friendly paper that allows erasure, while resulting in permanence after the ink dries/cures? Any way to accomplish, with FP approach?

 

FP+ink is my path, even if mistakes are part of the bargain...

 

I very much appreciate your contributions.

 

Thx,

cam

Edited April 8, 2017 by CameronB

[FarmBoy]

Parker 51. Bound journal of your liking.

 

Welcome.

 

Farmboy

[pearlcaron]

Hi Cam,

 

Decades ago, actually many decades ago, we used to use bleach to erase fountain pen ink. I have no idea if your paper would take it. And, I have no idea what that ink is like. I can only suggest a series of tests. Be sure to include heat as part of your trials - both with wet, and dried ink and paper.

 

Good luck,

 

Pearl

[FOUR X FOUR]

Welcome to the forum, Cam

[mitto]

Parker 51 aerometric pen and bound journal of good fountain pen friendly paper. Any branded black or blue ink of your liking.

 

And welcome to FPN.

[Chrissy]

Hello Cam and welcome to FPN. ​

[mothy]

try iron gall ink, requires a little more effort to clean up and you don't want to let it dry out in the pen, but there are many well loved fountain pen friendly varietys (do check its fountain pen safe though as some are dip pen only) diamine registrars/ecclesiastical supplies do a nice reliable one. the won't fade, are completely water resistant but will become darker as they oxidise so if bright colours are what you want, you'd most likely need some variety of noodlers with eternal and bulletproof properties.

 

you could also go for a carbon ink, like the sailor one, it contains nano particles so requires more frequent pen cleaning but is going to be the most permenant ink you can find, unfortunately your limited in colour choice to black. platinum also makes one and they sell a cheap is how desk pen that's designed to use it safely.

in terms of mistakes i'd leave the signatures unsewn so you can just replace a four page spread in the event of a mistake, it's still a lot of back tracking but not as much.

 

the only way i know of to erase mistakes and may have some historical charm to you is to do what scribes did, iron gall ink on vellum (real vellum) and remove the mistake by scraping the surface with a sharp knife and sand it smooth again. iron gall is one of the only inks that adheres to vellum so that was its original use.

Edited April 8, 2017 by mothy

[Flippy]

Welcome aboard. Remember, cheers before jeers!

 

I think that the project seems great. How about some Parker Quink?

 

Josh

[jar]

Welcome home. Pull up a stump and set a spell.

 

There were some suggestions available.

 

First, start with the skin of an unborn young calf. The flayed skin from the calf is placed into water. Lime is mixed in which bites into all the raw skin. This should fully clean it and remove the hairs. The circular frame on which the skin is stretched is made ready. Let it be placed in the sun so that the fluid is removed. Approach with the knife which tears away the flesh and hairs. It quickly renders the sheet thin.

 

To prepare parchment for books: First cut into rectangular sheets. Assemble the sheets over each other and join together. Next comes pumice which removes what is on the surface. Chalk comes next, so that the work will not run. Then puncture (each sheet) with dots (using an awl or needle) following with a line made by the lead.

[ThomasB]

Hello and welcome from Baton Rouge, Louisiana...Enjoy your time here

[PAKMAN]

Hello and Welcome to FPN!! Glad to have you as a member!!

[OCArt]

Welcome to our little corner of the universe from a pen user in San Diego. I'm glad you are here!

[Carrau]

Welcome aboard from Charleston SC.

Mike

[CameronB]

Welcome home. Pull up a stump and set a spell.

 

There were some suggestions available.

 

First, start with the skin of an unborn young calf. The flayed skin from the calf is placed into water. Lime is mixed in which bites into all the raw skin. This should fully clean it and remove the hairs. The circular frame on which the skin is stretched is made ready. Let it be placed in the sun so that the fluid is removed. Approach with the knife which tears away the flesh and hairs. It quickly renders the sheet thin.

 

To prepare parchment for books: First cut into rectangular sheets. Assemble the sheets over each other and join together. Next comes pumice which removes what is on the surface. Chalk comes next, so that the work will not run. Then puncture (each sheet) with dots (using an awl or needle) following with a line made by the lead.

 

 

Hahaahaaaaaaaa.

Is there a particular yearling male calf (longhorn Im sure), without spot or blemish, that you have in mind?

Texan Humor. :-D

[CameronB]

Howdy from a displaced Texan, displaced Arkansan, displaced South African, and new Washingtonian, to all of the responding (and soon to respond)!

 

I appreciate the greetings and the helpful suggestions !

 

A couple of additional comments.

 

Permanence is relative. With respect to my resulting Bible...

I'm not planning on submerging my resulting transcribed Bible.

I'm not planning on storing it page OPEN under the noonday sun in Phoenix Arizona.

I'm not planning on submitting it to the harsh environs of the Serengeti.

 

I AM planning on having my Bible bound in a durable leather.

I AM planning on keeping it with me and utilizing it as a working Bible

I AM expecting to have space for my own personal comments and observations in sizable margins, and in different inks.

 

My REAL concern is that the INK that I use doesn't fade out after a couple of years

When my hand moves over the text, that the sharpness of the lines doesn't blur.

That the color doesn't change...

 

I would expect that when I pass this Bible down, that it would be well worn, well used, and still usable by the next gen...if that is their desire. And that the words are still legible, sharp and color fast.

 

But eventually, all ink and paper will wear out, and the oils in the hands will degrade the paper...that is true with any Bible today as well...I expect that.

This won't be an archived artifact, nor will it be 'preserved' for generations etc....

 

I'm hoping the actual document will have constrained costs.

I would expect Pen, Ink and Paper will run under - $500 when all is said and done...

 

Quality in a context ;-)

 

Really appreciate all of your help and warm welcome!

Cam

[Wahl]

Hi Cam

[pen2paper]

Hi and welcome Cam!

Others here have worked on similar projects including a group effort where each selected and completed their books of their preference.

While there may be paper and ink available now better suited to your purposes, their discussions on inks, papers, and specifically layout may be helpful.

Use the search feature to find these multiple threads.

edited speeling error, kind of humorous considering ;-)

Edited April 8, 2017 by pen2paper

[CameronB]

Hi and welcome Cam!

Others here have worked on similar projects including a group effort where each selected and completed their books of their preference.

While there may be paper and ink available now better suited to your purposes, their discussions on inks, papers, and specifically layout may be helpful.

Use the search feature to find these multiple threads.

edited speeling error, kind of humorous considering ;-)

 

 

I'm laughing ;-) Thanks for that!

 

I've landed on Tomoe river as paper (from researching these posts). Rhodia is one I also keep seeing referred.

I've seen much discussion on high quality inks, but when the discussion progresses to Laser resilience, submergence testing, and acetone, fraud prevention, etc, I'm wondering if that is overkill to my pursuits.

 

If an ink can be erased with acetone, but will otherwise stay sharp and true for 90 years...i'm Golden...

 

My requirements are not fraud prevention, just ink resilience & color fastness given normal wear and tear for a regularly handled book.

 

I'm comfortable i can utilize all of the Noodler "Bad" series of inks...and that has some great options, but might be overkill??

 

Still researching...;-)

 

Also still researching the concept of "wetness" with respect to ink & FP /nib discussions ...

 

Thanks!

[pen2paper]

If you're not using consonants, remember to count carefully ;-)

[Arkamas]

Greetings and welcome!