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Fast Drying Blue Or Black Ink That Doesn't Feather?


CheesyWalnut

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I used Parker Quink black in college with a Parker 45 with a Fine nib, similar to a Pilot F nib. But I do not remember if I had feathering problems with cheap department store paper.

 

You also want the pen to write on the dry side, to help the ink dry faster.

 

Sheaffer Skrip blue is a light blue. I do NOT recommend it for a Japanese F nib pen, as it will be difficult to read. For Sheaffer, I would go with the darker Skrip blue-black or black.

San Francisco Pen Show - August 28-30, 2020 - Redwood City, California

www.SFPenShow.com

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I know this may not be helpful, but I've got to say. . . Private Reserve Invincible Black. To me it's the ultimate black ink: super-dark, waterproof, minimal feathering or bleed-through, fast drying, wet and lubricative.

 

However, PRIB has been reformulated at least once since I bought mine, and I haven't used the newer variants. I've been hoarding my old formula PRIB. (Also, I diluted mine with 1 part water per 2 parts ink, which I've had to do with most PR inks. They are super-saturated.)

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I use Sailor Kiwa Guro daily in both a Montblanc 146 (M) and Sailor 1911 Large (M) and it dries very quickly on standard office copy paper. Takes a bit longer on good paper (especially on Tomoe River).

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Try Noodler's Ink: X-Feather. I believe that the X-Feather ink was designed to not feather even on cheap paper. If you do try it though, tell us what pen(s) you put it in and how it turned out.

 

GL out there.

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I forgot to mention 4001 black in a skinny nib on real poor paper can be a darker gray.

 

You see the Golden Age of Fountain pens died @ 1965-70.

The Golden Age of Paper in the late '70's mid 80's.

 

Luckily you are living in the Golden Age of Inks....where one can find a black that dries fast and is great for skinny nibs and very poor paper.

 

 

I had some Zander's Bond Paper that was too good to use in a Juki daisywheel printer. A few decades later, I found 12 sheets of a pad, I had bought dirt cheap, in I wasn't into wasting beer money on pens and ink.

Perfect paper.....and I'd wasted most of it scribbling with a Ball Point. :doh: How was I to know it was perfect paper....I was using a ball point. :rolleyes:

No watermark to give me hope in finding it again.

I still have 8 sheets left.................I do have another perfect paper that I'll be getting before summer, costs E40 for 100 sheets. If I spent more than $0.50- 0.75 for the cheap paper I'd be surprised.

 

It's how the paper is coated.....coating cost managers bonus money...so no wonder the Golden Age of Paper ....died....and that back in the day when one could if one was very well off one could still live off one's dividends. (A word that has no meaning in Modern Times, with a P&E of 60-100 or more.)

Coke at in the '30's a share, once was a P&E 14...the dividend of a share of Coke would buy a new share in 14 years. Now it is, it costs $60 and has a P&E of 60. In only sixty years, your share in Coke will buy you a second share.

Hummm, suddenly investing in long term Fountain Pen 'futures' looks like a winner.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

Ransom Bucket cost me many of my pictures taken by a poor camera that was finally tossed. Luckily, the Chicken Scratch pictures also vanished.

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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Have used several black inks almost totally on cheap paper. The ones that actually perform the best, at least from my limited perspective, are Noodler's Bernenke Black (actually works rather well with Mead notebook paper) and Camlin Permanent Black (incredibly cheap and good basic black ink from India). An inexpensive and very good blue is Camlin Royal Blue. The Camlin products are available on Ebay for less than a Bottle of Noodler's , one just has to be really patient.

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