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Carene Parts - Medium Nitrile Rings


Left FPN

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If you look closely (x10) at your section parts, especially those with older pens, you may find you have perished rubber rings.

 

I have a number of sections with this problem so early this week or was it last (old age) I commenced sourcing spares. There are 3 in total, 2 external, one internal. While they are O ring seals, only the internal one should be referred to as a seal...cos it's the only one doing it. When measured they are true Metric sized seals and not close Imperial equivalents.

 

I eventually tracked down a supplier but the prices were/are beyond economy for project work. Over £100 for 20 off each size.

 

This morning I emailed my contact at Waterman to ask if they would sell me a number of them for my pens or project work. I await a reply.

 

The parts are here,

 

 

 

more on this later.

 

 

 

 

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Update: Waterman have declined to supply the parts for me to fit. They will do it under a repair but that would be uneconomical.

 

In reply I have requested their full specification and size so lets see what transpires. I have measured them and know this data but it would be a check.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I like the smiley in that parts-pic...

 

 

D.ick

~

KEEP SAFE, WEAR A MASK, KEEP A DISTANCE.

Freedom exists by virtue of self limitation.

~

 

 

 

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I like the smiley in that parts-pic...

 

 

D.ick

I was waiting for someone to spot it :)

 

Update: Waterman have declined from giving me the precise ring sizes...not that I was expecting them to anyway.

 

I have some on order elsewhere that I am going to try.

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I was waiting for someone to spot it :)

 

Update: Waterman have declined from giving me the precise ring sizes...not that I was expecting them to anyway.

 

I have some on order elsewhere that I am going to try.

 

Did they answer declining, or did they decline to answer?

 

D.ick

~

KEEP SAFE, WEAR A MASK, KEEP A DISTANCE.

Freedom exists by virtue of self limitation.

~

 

 

 

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Did they answer declining, or did they decline to answer?

 

D.ick

They answered declining to provide spares only or the actual sizes. I have to say the CS person always replies but sometimes it takes a week.

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They answered declining to provide spares only or the actual sizes. I have to say the CS person always replies but sometimes it takes a week.

 

Apparently protecting their repair-functionality, which is understandable but irritating.

 

 

D.ick

~

KEEP SAFE, WEAR A MASK, KEEP A DISTANCE.

Freedom exists by virtue of self limitation.

~

 

 

 

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Apparently protecting their repair-functionality, which is understandable but irritating.

 

 

D.ick

The most annoying part was that they did state this,

 

The other option will be to contact one of our Vintage specialist which will may be able to assist you. I have attached the list at this email.

 

So I emailed all 6 companies but to no avail. One stated I had to buy a complete new section.

 

Now this I found annoying because Waterman would/should have known they do not supply the spares to them even.

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So, we can expect these rings to go out on our pens too?

"Don't hurry, don't worry. It's better to be late at the Golden Gate than to arrive in Hell on time."
--Sign in a bar and grill, Ormond Beach, Florida, 1960.

 

 

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So, we can expect these rings to go out on our pens too?

On older pens you may find the rings have perished which can only be detected using a x10 or x15 glass.

 

I now have a stock of rings that will suffice.

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  • 9 months later...

On older pens you may find the rings have perished which can only be detected using a x10 or x15 glass.

 

I now have a stock of rings that will suffice.

Sorry to necro this thread, but I recently purchased a beautiful green shimmer Carene that seems to be missing the internal o-ring. Do you have these or the specification for what I should buy?

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I can't really remove the part safely because it's kind of stuck, but it's this o-ring from the inner nipple where the cartridge/converter connects. The one on the Carene I purchased was missing entirely. For some reason I'm not allowed to post pictures to this forum yet.

 

Also, do you have any advice on removing this nipple and feed that seems a little stuck? I've soaked it in warm water and a couple drops of dish soap for several days and it doesn't seem to want to budge loose when trying to gently extract it with tweezers. I'm definitely afraid to strong arm it into coming out.

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Looking at my first post picture, the second line of parts down, you are referring to the nipple and O ring to the right. Firstly you don't want to mark the nipple with tweezers cos that is the sealing surface with the cartridge/converter mouth.

 

If the o ring was missing, the assembly could not have been tight together and must have leaked...unless the previous person has bonded it together. If the nipple does not move freely I am sticking my neck out and saying it has been bonded cos they normally come out with ease. Let us hope no adhesive has reached the feed.

 

Have you removed the nib because you will not be able to extract the feed, once we get to that stage, until it is out of the way.

 

I do not have spares for that O ring but will measure one tomorrow and advise you of its size and where to buy. Cousins.com (watch parts) might have them but you will have to buy 10 or so.

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Hard to tell if the nipple was bonded, but I used rubber coated tweezers to try to gently pull it out and it wouldn't budge at all. Could've been bonded by someone if they weren't able to determine the size of the o-ring replacement, but the ebay seller I purchased it from didn't seem to know anything about that.

 

I've not attempted to remove the nib. Definitely not that brave or qualified for a pen of this design. Thanks so for looking up the o-ring specs for me. I'm hoping that it's a simple solution for my leaking problem, because it's gnastly!

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The O ring seal size is,

 

Inside Diameter 4.9mm to 5.0mm

Cross Section diameter (sometimes referred to as thickness) 1.1mm to 1.2mm

Material: 70 shore Nitrile.

 

Cousins do not have them but ebay (in your country) might.

 

Here is a typical UK supplier who has ID 5mm CS 1.2mm units.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/METRIC-NITRILE-70-RUBBER-O-RINGS-1-2MM-CROSS-SECTION-1-6MM-ID-TO-20MM-ID-/371778246974?var=&hash=item568fb5d93e:m:mJowcQqptQNLX2qys157rvQ

 

I see you are flying the California flag so look through ebay.com, typically http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metric-Buna-O-rings-5-x-1-2mm-Price-for-50-pcs-/161457896644?hash=item2597a3fcc4:g:xM4AAMXQb2JSFO6p but they are sold in 50's. Someone might have a listing for a lesser quantity...or contact these and see if they can supply less or maybe a couple of samples.

 

 

 

Further to removing the nipple from the section. Use an old cartridge to wiggle it and pull it out. They fit tightly over the nipple and will do no damage. If it will not come out then it is bonded in. Most probably that ebayer is telling porkies.

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I thought this topic required full clarification,

 

The parts of the section consist of and are disassembled in this order.
1. Nib or Point. The nib as fixed into the grip with an adhesive (origin unknown). I use 24 hour twin pack epoxy when replacing nibs. Methylated Spirits or Isopropyl Alcohol to remove excess.
2. Locking Collar. I have found some have a sticky compound on the thread to prevent the collar moving (origin unknown). I use nothing but perhaps Stopcock Grease would work.
3. Adjustment Ring (threaded). This part allows the barrel tassie to be aligned with the nib. The ring is keyed which must be outermost when assembled.
4. Seal (though not used for such). This is used as a buffer/packer between the adjustment ring and body. ID 7.2mm, CS 1.2mm
5. Seal. To seal the section to the barrel. Silicone lubrication is required. ID 8.5mm, CS 1.0mm
6. Body. The body is held and sealed inside the grip with an adhesive (origin unknown). This can be softened to allow disassembly by dipping the body only in hot water. I use G-S Hypo Cement when replacing this part.
7. Band.
8. C (Cap) Clip.
9. Seal. ID 5.0mm, CS 1.2mm
10. Nipple. This should be lose within the assembly once the Body is removed.
11. Feed.
12. Grip.
To remove items 4 and 5, pinch between finger and thumb to create a bulge or small loop on one side. Using a blunted needle, tooth pick or rounded dental probe pick out the seal.
The final position of the Locking Collar, item 2, dictates the position or float of the Adjustment Ring, item 3. Allowing the Adjustment Ring to move changes the position of the thread and thus allows the barrels rotational position to change relative to the section. So, the barrel tassie can be aligned with the nib if required.
Assembly is in reverse order.
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speaking of O rings.. have you ever tried using the O rings from mechanical keyboards MX keys dampeners?

 

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=keyboard+rubber+rings&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Akeyboard+rubber+rings

 

And before these O rings were popular.. those of us in the keyboard hacking (geekhack) community would use orthodontic O rings which come in a lot more sizes.

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