Flex - Plans To Add Flex To Platinum Sf?

[Sailor Kenshin]

I don't mean to be a spoil sport but this adjustment is inevitably a downgrade. The Pilot 912 I had had good flex feel, but it was fickle as all get out.

 

I just don't understand the whole fad of converting new 14k nibs to flex nibs. Falcons, 912s, PTL-5000s… they're all great pens, but if you're wanting actual flexibility, and if you're wanting actual usability (not having the feed run dry every few words), then vintage is the way to go. Vintage flex doesn't have to be expensive. I was a vendor at the Dallas Pen Show and was selling user-grade HR Watermans with flexible nibs starting at $65 for the roughest bodies (but all the nibs were pristine and properly set to their feeds). And the really good bodies (also with great flex nibs) for $120-175. That's still cheaper than a $140 Falcon with a "Spencerian mod" that runs, what, $110?

 

And I disagree about them not being "around forever". Nowadays most vintage pen owners are making sure they're taken care of at least as diligently as modern pens.

 

I'm not meaning to sound harsh, it's just that over the past ten years I've had a lot of modified modern "flex" pens and a whole lot more actual vintage flex pens, and there's no comparison. That's not to say the newer pens aren't great pens—in many cases they are—but if it's a writing experience you're after, I feel you'd be better served by a relatively common, easy to get a hold of, and quite affordable vintage Waterman.

 

And if you happen to have some spare vintage flex nibs, there is a great way to get vintage style bodies with actual vintage nibs. Range pens are well made and have ebonite feeds. I've got a bunch, all with vintage nibs in them. I can EDC them without worrying about harming a fragile vintage pen body.

 

 

THANK YOU!

[mhphoto]

And if you happen to have some spare vintage flex nibs, there is a great way to get vintage style bodies with actual vintage nibs. Ranga pens are well made and have ebonite feeds. I've got a bunch, all with vintage nibs in them. I can EDC them without worrying about harming a fragile vintage pen body.

 

 

 

Left to right:

 

Romus Majestic (#6 Wahl-Eversharp adjustable nib)

Noodler's Creaper (Waterman #2 nib)

Noodler's Creaper (Waterman #2 nib)

Ranga Duofold(?) (Waterman Emblem Pen nib)

Ranga Model ? (large Waterman nib)

Ranga Model ? (large Waterman nib)

Ranga Model 2 (Carter #2 nib)

Ranga Model 2 (Sheaffer Junior nib)

Ranga Model 2 (Waterman #4 nib)

Omas Extra (Balance, I think) (Waterman No. 7 Red nib)

 

With these I can have vintage flex out and about with me and not worry about hurting a valuable vintage pen body.

[Meltemi]

Buying a vintage nib is a solution if I want flex without tinker not to learn how to tinker pens into it. I know, it has MANY and major to be honest downsides but if I get it right once, I can then improve it. And if I am able to do it to one pen, I might be able to do it to an other etc. I mean, I'd rather learn how to smooth nibs than get one smoothed. There is no doubt about vintage flex, it is the original, the true flex. I'm not trying to replicate that, it's impossible. But even a 50% increase in the flex of let's say a Platinum or Falcon, I'm pleased with it. I use only writing insturments that produce a very fine line so for me a little flex looks quite big.

Edited November 10, 2016 by Meltemi

[Buzz_130]

Your topic is about flex, but your last post indicates you may be interested in line variation. But I also sense that you are looking for do-it-yourself project. My only comment is to use the right tools for the right job.

 

If you want to play with a flex pen, get a dip pen. If you want flex to carry with you, then buy a vintage pen. If you want line variation and desire to keep all of the advantages of a modern fountain pen (including keeping the value of a pen), then get a stub nib (or have one modified for stub).

 

As jar said - if you own it and want to DIY, good luck.

 

Buzz