Help Identifying Unknown Japanese Pen

[HanhPhuc]

Hi guys,

 

A friend of mines recently sent me this pen that they got online from Japan.

It's a very beautiful looking pen, with a celluloid body

Theirs a makers engraving on the barrel, but it's to faint for me to read it. Seems to say something in large font, and then below possibly "Nagoya Co."?

The nib is stainless steel I believe and is marked "Highclass Friendly Writer"

The seller also removed the section from the barrel; couldn't do that myself however

 

Here are pictures from the listings, let me know if you need any other close ups

 

I appreciate the help!

[Algester]

Pilot Pen probably 1930-1940s basically war era steel nib at lest the clip tells me it's Pilot

based on the photo the nib probably would need some work japanese eye dropper so yeah

Edited October 30, 2016 by Algester

[HanhPhuc]

Pilot Pen probably 1930-1940s basically war era steel nib at lest the clip tells me it's Pilotbased on the photo the nib probably would need some work japanese eye dropper so yeah

Thanks for the help Algester. Thought it was wartime, but couldn't figure anything else out

If you don't mind me asking, how is it a eyedropper? Wouldn't it be a plunger filler?

 

Thanks

[Mew]

Thanks for the help Algester. Thought it was wartime, but couldn't figure anything else out

If you don't mind me asking, how is it a eyedropper? Wouldn't it be a plunger filler?

 

Thanks

That is the shut-off valve. In a plunger filler, that rod would help in filling the pen, but you will have to fill this pen using an eyedropper.

That rod with the shut-off valve at the end will cut off the ink supply to the nib and feed.

Do check the valve whether it is still intact or needs to be restored. All pre-war pens usually don't have their valves intact.

[HanhPhuc]

That is the shut-off valve. In a plunger filler, that rod would help in filling the pen, but you will have to fill this pen using an eyedropper.

That rod with the shut-off valve at the end will cut off the ink supply to the nib and feed.

Do check the valve whether it is still intact or needs to be restored. All pre-war pens usually don't have their valves intact.

Ah thanks for clarifying

 

Sorry if it sounds like I'm asking a lot of stupid questions, but how would you check if the valve is intact?I've tried to unscrew the section from the barrel, but I'm having a hell of a time doing it. I hope the guy didn't glue it or something

[stan]

To elaborate.

 

It is an eyedropper filler.You need remove the section to fill, as you have already done so. The blind cap does not connect to a plunger. It is meant to be unscrewed 1/4" turn to release ink from inside the barrel to the section, feed, and your writing surface.

 

What are you having difficulty removing? All the parts seem apart except for the nib and feed. For this to be removed you need a nib block, unless it is already loose and can be removed by hand.

 

Stainless steel nibs came in levels of quality. I have seem many with surface and more intensive rust. It was not like a maker had a choice of quality. They took what they got. Pilot, being the major manufacturer, had better control of their supply chain and may have been able to demand higher quality stainless. Given the war effort, this hypothesis may be suspect as in later war years pen production ceased entirely.

 

One of the great features in identifying a pen made by Pilot is that they say PILOT on the nib and barrel. Does yours?

Numerous small pen makers existed in pre-war Japan. Most, lost to history. As it became unlawful to use gold for fountain pen nibs after 1939 (with some exceptions), this is a convenient means to date your pen. Generally (I do mean generally) pen makers became less numerous and quality suffered as the war moved forward. Except for some cheap plastic made 1943-44 (my guess), colorful plastic pens ceased production about 1941-42.

[HanhPhuc]

To elaborate.

 

It is an eyedropper filler.You need remove the section to fill, as you have already done so. The blind cap does not connect to a plunger. It is meant to be unscrewed 1/4" turn to release ink from inside the barrel to the section, feed, and your writing surface.

 

What are you having difficulty removing? All the parts seem apart except for the nib and feed. For this to be removed you need a nib block, unless it is already loose and can be removed by hand.

 

Stainless steel nibs came in levels of quality. I have seem many with surface and more intensive rust. It was not like a maker had a choice of quality. They took what they got. Pilot, being the major manufacturer, had better control of their supply chain and may have been able to demand higher quality stainless. Given the war effort, this hypothesis may be suspect as in later war years pen production ceased entirely.

 

One of the great features in identifying a pen made by Pilot is that they say PILOT on the nib and barrel. Does yours?

Numerous small pen makers existed in pre-war Japan. Most, lost to history. As it became unlawful to use gold for fountain pen nibs after 1939 (with some exceptions), this is a convenient means to date your pen. Generally (I do mean generally) pen makers became less numerous and quality suffered as the war moved forward. Except for some cheap plastic made 1943-44 (my guess), colorful plastic pens ceased production about 1941-42.

Thanks for the extra information and how the shut off valve works

 

I cannot unscrew the section from the barrel to fill up the pen. The photos I showed are from the original listing. It seems like the seller almost glued it together.

I've read that soaking it in water some times helps to remove stuck sections, but I've also heard it can damage celluloid and affect ink flow

 

Also I cannot see Pilot marked anywhere on the pen clip or band. It might've been on the barrel, but the etching is too faint to read now. I can clearly see what looks like "Na(g)...Co". I'm guessing this might perhaps be Nagoya Co. but it'd speculation on my part

Edited October 30, 2016 by HanhPhuc

[Algester]

Thanks for the extra information and how the shut off valve works

 

I cannot unscrew the section from the barrel to fill up the pen. The photos I showed are from the original listing. It seems like the seller almost glued it together.

I've read that soaking it in water some times helps to remove stuck sections, but I've also heard it can damage celluloid and affect ink flow

 

Also I cannot see Pilot marked anywhere on the pen clip or band. It might've been on the barrel, but the etching is too faint to read now. I can clearly see what looks like "Na(g)...Co". I'm guessing this might perhaps be Nagoya Co. but it'd speculation on my part

second line is brand and other marking

bottom line would have Nagoya, Japan

[HanhPhuc]

second line is brand and other markingbottom line would have Nagoya, Japan

Thanks Algester. I've been looking around and heard you can also use baby powder in order to "highlight" the etching. Perhaps I'll see if it works as well

 

Any idea on how to remove the stuck section so I can fill the pen? Again, the photos I posted are from the listing. I can't get the section to budge at all

[stan]

The section screws out. Heat it with a hairdryer. Gently!!! Not TOOOOOO hot.

It will come out.

 

Probably not a Pilot, nor a Nagoya. Probably Naka-something. there was a Nakaya before the war. Not the same company.

[HanhPhuc]

The section screws out. Heat it with a hairdryer. Gently!!! Not TOOOOOO hot.

It will come out.

 

Probably not a Pilot, nor a Nagoya. Probably Naka-something. there was a Nakaya before the war. Not the same company.

Tried that, still won't budge. I've never had this problem with any of my pens

[stan]

It may be frustrating. Keep trying. Keep the hair dryer on the section longer. Hold the pen upright in one hand and twist slowly when using the hair dryer so you can get even heat on all sides. Keep the hair dryer as close to the pen as possible. You need to twist the section out when it is warm. If you have some sheet rubber use it to hold the section and barrel. This will provide additional friction when turning the section out.

[HanhPhuc]

It may be frustrating. Keep trying. Keep the hair dryer on the section longer. Hold the pen upright in one hand and twist slowly when using the hair dryer so you can get even heat on all sides. Keep the hair dryer as close to the pen as possible. You need to twist the section out when it is warm. If you have some sheet rubber use it to hold the section and barrel. This will provide additional friction when turning the section out.

Hey Stan, was finally able to open it up after using a lot more heat than I did previously.

Filled it up and it seems to be leaking from the shut off valve whenever I unscrew it a bit

 

Guessing this means it's broken. Any idea how much it'd cost for it to be fixed or any good places to ask?

[stan]

After 75 years, the seal is likely broken. They dry out and shrink if not used or if abused.

Try eckiefump. He lurks around here somewhere. You can Google him too.

If not reachable or available, start contacting the usual pen repair suspects.