Parker 21 - Pen Cap Question - Repair

[beardedpens]

Hello,

 

I am new to the forum, and am hoping this is the right section to post this in.

 

I found this Parker 21 for $40.00 at a local antique shop. I noticed that the pen cap can rotate around the metal band of the mid section freely. The cap stays on securely, but this rotating situation makes the over all feel of the pen... I hate to say it...cheap? Otherwise I love this pen dearly. Is the cap suppose to do this?

 

I let it soak for a few days in water, and a bit soap. This has gotten the pen to a poor working condition. I still can't remove the filler from the rest of the body to gain access to the nib for cleaning. I have even taken a blow drier to it, and it still won't budge. Any suggestions for my dilemma?

 

- Bearded Pens

 

[pajaro]

The cap appears to me to be a Parker 51 cap. The pen is a 21. Considering that the cap is for a 51, I am not sure if you overpaid or not. For a pure 21 super or a 21, that would be about 2times the value.

[beardedpens]

The cap appears to me to be a Parker 51 cap. The pen is a 21. Considering that the cap is for a 51, I am not sure if you overpaid or not. For a pure 21 super or a 21, that would be about 2times the value.

 

 

I had a suspicion that the cap didn't belong. Is that why it rotates freely?

[mitto]

It must be the upper part of the clutch ring on the pen that is rotating and not the cap. Check the clutch ring with your fingers and see if the upper part of it rotates. If so it is normal.

 

 

With its own 21 cap there would be no rotation because of the different clutch system compatible with the clutch ring on the pen.

 

You overpaid for the pen. But then you have a very nice 51 (special) regular size cap.

[FarmBoy]

I would advise against disassembling this pen. If it matters you don't remove the hood on this pen you remove the front end as an assembly. If you must twist the filler not the hood but again, I don't advise it if it isn't cracked and in need of replacement.

Your cap should be a trough clip cap or a ball clip cap, your cap is from a 51. A 51 cap will work on a 21 if want to use it. A 51 cap grips the barrel using a basket that holds onto the pen at the solid clutch ring. On your 21 the clutch ring is the grips the cap. The ring is three pieces and the raised center part is not quite round and is compressed by the cap. All 21 caps spin if the clutch ring is free to rotate.

 

Later 51 and 21 caps have clutch fingers that hold the hood of the pen and cause interesting deformations in the injection molded parts found on later pens.

 

Early 21s are good writing pens. Unfortunately they are blessed with brittle hoods that are prone to cracks. Good news is they rarely need more than just a flush to make them write.

[Erik Dalton]

Farm Boy is wise, and all knowing about these things. You might consider taking his advice and not trying to dissemble the pen. These are not pens that are made to be taken apart. If you've flushed it out, and it is writing well, don't mess with it. You have a nice writing Frankenpen that's cool in itself.

See the threads here on cleaning out a P51 & P21. If you go beyond that you run the risk of cracking the hood or body.

If it's writing good and the cap stays on tight, enjoy it.

[beardedpens]

I would advise against disassembling this pen. If it matters you don't remove the hood on this pen you remove the front end as an assembly. If you must twist the filler not the hood but again, I don't advise it if it isn't cracked and in need of replacement.

Your cap should be a trough clip cap or a ball clip cap, your cap is from a 51. A 51 cap will work on a 21 if want to use it. A 51 cap grips the barrel using a basket that holds onto the pen at the solid clutch ring. On your 21 the clutch ring is the grips the cap. The ring is three pieces and the raised center part is not quite round and is compressed by the cap. All 21 caps spin if the clutch ring is free to rotate.

 

Later 51 and 21 caps have clutch fingers that hold the hood of the pen and cause interesting deformations in the injection molded parts found on later pens.

 

Early 21s are good writing pens. Unfortunately they are blessed with brittle hoods that are prone to cracks. Good news is they rarely need more than just a flush to make them write.

 

 

This must be an earlier pen because the band is indeed free to rotate. The pen writes, but is incredibly dry. I was hoping a more thorough disassembly might allow me to further clean the feed to obtain a better ink flow.

[beardedpens]

Farm Boy is wise, and all knowing about these things. You might consider taking his advice and not trying to dissemble the pen. These are not pens that are made to be taken apart. If you've flushed it out, and it is writing well, don't mess with it. You have a nice writing Frankenpen that's cool in itself.

See the threads here on cleaning out a P51 & P21. If you go beyond that you run the risk of cracking the hood or body.

If it's writing good and the cap stays on tight, enjoy it.

 

I will proceed with caution! thank you for the information.