Waltham Fountain Pen

[Drago1265]

Hello,

 

I bought this fountain pen at a flea market. I have heard of the manufacture, I know it was a third tier pen company. I am trying to find specifics about this particular pen. All I know is it has a 14K gold plated du-o-way nib. I don't know the year or pen model/type. In my research I have not seen a du-o-way with center ink reserve that is clear and I am not sure what type of filling system this is considered? I liked the way it looked and it didn't break the bank at $1.

 

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

D

[estie1948]

Your posting sent me looking through my cardboard box of project pens and I found one just like yours. I believe it is considered to be a piston filler. To make this work, you need "only" separate the section from the amber translucent portion of the body and replace the "felt washer" or O-ring on the piston. This is all supposition on my part as I have not done any part of the work. From the photo, it looks to me as if the nib may need to be slightly repositioned over the feed.

 

You have inspired me. I had completely forgotten I had this pen. I have set it out to work on the first chance I get. I hope someone comes along that can give us more information and, perhaps, even instructions and washer or O-ring size.

 

-David (Estie).

[DanDeM]

To knit a pic, the pen is actually a syringe fill. Once the seal is replaced, and the section securely re-seated,

the pen will fill by drawing back the button under the blind cap. Push the button down and you will expel

the ink, so be careful replacing the blind cap after filling.

Waltham also made some noisier (and easier to repair) pens like these…

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/DanDeM38/Waltham/Wlthm%20Red%20Indian%20Combo/WlthmRedIndian%20Combo%20-%207_zpsoij7f9b4.jpg

 

http://i556.photobucket.com/albums/ss2/DanDeM38/Waltham/Waltham%20Yellow%20Indian/Waltham%20Yllw%20Indian%20-%207_zpsekesw7rv.jpg

 

Estie:

Would be very interested to hear about your efforts to restore your pen. Since the section must make an

absolutely water-tight seal, would not be surprised to learn that it is threaded; screws into the barrel.

Edited July 21, 2016 by DanDeM

[estie1948]

To knit a pic, the pen is actually a syringe fill. Once the seal is replaced, and the section securely re-seated,

the pen will fill by drawing back the button under the blind cap. Push the button down and you will expel

the ink, so be careful replacing the blind cap after filling.

 

Estie:

Would be very interested to hear about your efforts to restore your pen. Since the section must make an

absolutely water-tight seal, would not be surprised to learn that it is threaded; screws into the barrel.

DanDeM, thank you for the information you supplied and the great pictures of those beautiful pens. Your concerns about the "water-tight seal" is one of the reasons my pen has remained in the project box. Thank you for all the information you supplied and I will keep you posted on my progress. If I am successful, I will owe you a definite debt of gratitude. Thank you again.

 

-David (Estie).

[DanDeM]

DanDeM, thank you for the information you supplied and the great pictures of those beautiful pens. Your concerns about the "water-tight seal" is one of the reasons my pen has remained in the project box. Thank you for all the information you supplied and I will keep you posted on my progress. If I am successful, I will owe you a definite debt of gratitude. Thank you again.

 

-David (Estie).

You're quite welcome, and thank you for your kind words.

Looking forward to your progress. You might want to start with nothing more risky than a good, long soak.

[Drago1265]

Thank you both for the information. I have never done any repairs on Fountain pens. I'm dabbling in sac replacement now. I am trying to find where to buy parts. I thought about getting a rubber gasket at a hardware store and see if that works? I've never touched a nib, it does need to be repositioned. Any idea what year this pen was made?

[DanDeM]

Let’s start with the easy one.

I’ve had very good experience buying parts —sacs, J/Pressure bars, talc, etc. —

from WoodBin. Fast service, wide selection, a pleasure to deal with.

Now some speculation. Based on the material and design would judge the pen

to be mid 1930’s.

Still with the easy stuff.

Aligning the nib is pretty straight forward. First, give the nib and section a soak

in a 1 to 10 part solution of ammonia and warm water. Swirl the section and refresh

as needed until the solution remains clear. The object is to dissolve, clean any

old, dried ink that might adhere the nib to the feed and section. Once clean, and

still wet, place your thumb and forefinger on either side of the base of nib with

the tips touching the front edge of the section. Gently rotate, but do not squeeze

or pull the nib until it’s breather hole is centered over the feed. You can verify the

position by looking at the underside of the nib. When correctly aligned, the tip of

the feed will meet the slit in the nib.

Now, before rushing off to buy O Rings, gaskets, diaphragms or any other rocket

maintenance supplies, you need to see how whatever it is, is attached to the

stem of the syringe. You are now getting into the deep end of the pool, and given

your newness to all of this you might want to wait until we hear back from Estie.

This pen is not a “learner”, like any lever fill would be.

Or you can send it off for repair.

Or you try to open it yourself, risk damaging the pen, learn a lot about fountain

pens, feel a sense of accomplishment if it works or regret if it doesn’t.

Whatever you choose, all best with it. Hope to see a writing sample when it’s done.

[estie1948]

I have been away on the road and not able to work on my pens. However, I have completely disassembled this pen. The section is a friction fit into the body. I will hopefully be home later this week and be able to some work on the fountain pen. The pen separates into seven pieces. I have a photo of it, but have not been able to post it to the FPN. Precede with the good long soak. Within the next week I will tell you the size washer or o-ring you need and how to reseal the section to the body so that it does not leak (I hope, I hope, I hope).

 

David (Estie).

[DanDeM]

David(Este)

I find it very annoying when trivia like careers, family, taxes get in the way of what really matters.

Can’t wait to hear what you have learned.

All best,
Dan

[ISW_Kaputnik]

I have a very similar syringe filler Waltham, but not with a translucent barrel. It has been on my project list for this year since January 1st, partly because I was seriously worried about getting the section out without damaging it. But this thread has motivated me again.

 

http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt221/mapn/Pens/Waltham%20Assembled_zps7dbgyfj2.jpg

 

As it happened, the section, which seemed to be in there very tightly at first, came loose with only a little wiggle. There was a feeling as of some small remnant of adhesive giving way. Here's where I stand now.

 

http://i614.photobucket.com/albums/tt221/mapn/Pens/Waltham%20Apart_zpsjqrdvpph.jpg

 

Obviously, I need to find something that will work for that rubber washer. The one that's in there, while still complete, is petrified. And the friction fit section now slides in and out a little too easily. I'm thinking that when I've found a washer/gasket/O-ring I'll test it as thoroughly as I can with water. Once I'm satisfied that the syringe part works, I'll use a little shellac to hold the section in place and prevent leakage. But other ideas are welcome. It's going to be a little while before I get to the hardware store to search for gaskets anyway.

[DanDeM]

Hmmm…

Did you use heat to remove the section?

Findings:
1. The section is now loose.
2. …remnant of adhesive giving way.

Conclusion:
The adhesive not only held the section in place, but also provided the necessary water-tight seal.

Shellac will accomplish the same result, but will make future maintenance problematic.

So what is that adhesive that remains pliable, water-tight, effectively secures the section to the

barrel and is FP friendly???

Edited August 22, 2016 by DanDeM

[ISW_Kaputnik]

Hmmm…

 

Did you use heat to remove the section?

 

Findings:

1. The section is now loose.

2. …remnant of adhesive giving way.

 

Conclusion:

The adhesive not only held the section in place, but also provided the necessary water-tight seal.

 

Shellac will accomplish the same result, but will make future maintenance problematic.

 

So what is that adhesive that remains pliable, water-tight, effectively secures the section to the

barrel and is FP friendly???

 

Well, if you remember, let me know. First order of business is to see what I can find for a gasket at the hardware store. Other than that, there's no rush.

 

I'm thinking shellac because it supposedly has a rather low melting point and the section could later be removed again with a heat gun. But when applying heat I do always worry a little that I will manage to overdo it, and I'd be happy to learn of other, better, methods.

[estie1948]

I am finally home and off the road for a while. I rushed (and there in may very well be the problem) to my disassembled Waltham fountain pen. The piston had three hairline cracks in it when I took the pen apart. Upon removing the petrified rubber washer, my piston became three pieces. I am sorry one and all. I have failed. I hang my head in shame. I have somewhere a Traveler fountain pen that is almost identical. I shall search for it. Perhaps I can restore it.

 

ISW_Kaputnik, I wish you every bit of good luck. Our hope rests in you now. I agree with Dan in that these pens date from the 1930's. Do not follow my example, but rather go gently. The piston on your pen does look a good deal more substantial than in either mine or Drago1265's, but that may be simply because it is not translucent. It may be every bit as fragile. Good luck.

 

Drago1265, I am ashamed that I have let you down. However, do not despair. We may yet get your pen restored to writing condition. DanDem has given you excellent advice on the positioning of the nib over the feed. I warn you that my section, feed, and nib separated very easily. The feed is one of very basic design and the gold plating on the nib is of the very thinnest. If, while positioning the nib, you should have it all come apart in your hand, it is very easily reassembled. Just take advantage of the opportunity to be certain all old ink is cleaned away.

 

ISW_Kaputnik and Drago1265, while I am relatively certain it was not used originally to seal the section to the body of the pen, I was planning to try a bit of silicone. While my pen is now not capable of being restored unless I make some sort of Frankenpen of it (which I just might do), let me experiment with mine. Now that I am at home for a while, I will try to determine the size felt washer or o-ring needed as well as determine how best to seal the body to the section without damaging either. At the very least, should all else fail, I can provide you with parts for your pens.

 

DanDeM, thank you for your encouragement and the excellent advice you are passing on to us all. I am sorry that I did not pay more attention to the damage in my piston and thus take greater care. I feel like a beginner. I should have known better. My only excuse (and that is exactly what it is: an excuse) is that restoring this pen was on my mind the entire time I was on the road and I was so primed to get at it. I will play with this pen a bit and may end by trying to make an eyedropper-filler of it.

 

-David (Estie).

Edited August 23, 2016 by estie1948

[DanDeM]

 

Well, if you remember, let me know. First order of business is to see what I can find for a gasket at the hardware store. Other than that, there's no rush.

 

I'm thinking shellac because it supposedly has a rather low melting point and the section could later be removed again with a heat gun. But when applying heat I do always worry a little that I will manage to overdo it, and I'd be happy to learn of other, better, methods.

 

ISW_Kaputnik

 

If I memory serves, shellac begins to loose its hold at about 160ºF. It will do the job,

and if the replacement gasket works correctly you will have many years of service

and satisfaction with the pen. However, the celluloid in these lower end pens is usually

thin and readily misshapen at that temperature. If the gasket needs to be re-fitted,

disassembly could be risky.

 

Why not take your experiences and this issue to the Repair Forum?

 

And again, because it could be really germane, did you use heat to open the pen?

 

[DanDeM]

I am finally home and off the road for a while. I rushed (and there in may very well be the problem) to my disassembled Waltham fountain pen. The piston had three hairline cracks in it when I took the pen apart. Upon removing the petrified rubber washer, my piston became three pieces. I am sorry one and all. I have failed. I hang my head in shame. I have somewhere a Traveler fountain pen that is almost identical. I shall search for it. Perhaps I can restore it.

 

ISW_Kaputnik, I wish you every bit of good luck. Our hope rests in you now. I agree with Dan in that these pens date from the 1930's. Do not follow my example, but rather go gently. The piston on your pen does look a good deal more substantial than in either mine or Drago1265's, but that may be simply because it is not translucent. It may be every bit as fragile. Good luck.

 

Drago1265, I am ashamed that I have let you down. However, do not despair. We may yet get your pen restored to writing condition. DanDem has given you excellent advice on the positioning of the nib over the feed. I warn you that my section, feed, and nib separated very easily. The feed is one of very basic design and the gold plating on the nib is of the very thinnest. If, while positioning the nib, you should have it all come apart in your hand, it is very easily reassembled. Just take advantage of the opportunity to be certain all old ink is cleaned away.

 

ISW_Kaputnik and Drago1265, while I am relatively certain it was not used originally to seal the section to the body of the pen, I was planning to try a bit of silicone. While my pen is now not capable of being restored unless I make some sort of Frankenpen of it (which I just might do), let me experiment with mine. Now that I am at home for a while, I will try to determine the size felt washer or o-ring needed as well as determine how best to seal the body to the section without damaging either. At the very least, should all else fail, I can provide you with parts for your pens.

 

DanDeM, thank you for your encouragement and the excellent advice you are passing on to us all. I am sorry that I did not pay more attention to the damage in my piston and thus take greater care. I feel like a beginner. I should have known better. My only excuse (and that is exactly what it is: an excuse) is that restoring this pen was on my mind the entire time I was on the road and I was so primed to get at it. I will play with this pen a bit and may end by trying to make an eyedropper-filler of it.

 

-David (Estie).

 

-David (Este)

 

Welcome home. And sorry to learn about your splintered shaft. After years awash

in ink, then left dry for many more, it’s not surprising the material became brittle.

 

Have you considered using the pen as a bulb-fill?

 

The sac could be shellacked to the neck of the section, extend through the now

empty barrel that housed the shaft, and protrude from the opposite end, being

covered by the end cap. It might even be possible to find an hour-glass shaped

sac that narrows at the barrel-end. Although, without the pen in hand it is difficult

to know if the barrel-end opening is large enough to admit a sac to pass.

 

Just a thought to keep the pen in use, after all these years.

 

Dan

[ISW_Kaputnik]

I spent a bit of time at a couple of local hardware stores this morning. At the second store, a salesman patiently spent some of his time with me for a 32¢ sale of two washers which might work, but I'm going to spend a little time looking for something better. You can get sheets of rubber and make your own washers of special size. That might be the best solution.

 

The washers I bought are .375 inches around with a .125 inch hole. They are a little less than .0625 inch thick. This makes them a tight fit inside the barrel of the pen (just slightly larger than ideal perhaps) but a little loose on the shaft which could promote wear and leakage. I have a couple of ideas of how to deal with that, but it might be better to get a different gasket/washer/o-ring/grommet even if I have to make my own.

 

An article by Richard Binder on a different kind of repair says that shellac softens at 140º F, while Celluloid softens at 165º F, which is doable, but doesn't leave a huge margin for error. I did not use heat to get the section out this time, and in general prefer to avoid it. The question is whether there is a better solution. DanDeM is right that the repair forum may have answers. I need to think of all the questions I currently have and put them in one post there.

 

Again, no hurry. If this project runs into my vacation, then the project can wait a week or two. But it's one of those low stakes repairs where I would much rather do it myself. If it were a higher end syringe filler like a Morrison Patriot, I'd send it out to someone with more experience and skill.

 

[estie1948]

 

-David (Este)

 

Welcome home. And sorry to learn about your splintered shaft. After years awash

in ink, then left dry for many more, it’s not surprising the material became brittle.

 

Have you considered using the pen as a bulb-fill?

 

The sac could be shellacked to the neck of the section, extend through the now

empty barrel that housed the shaft, and protrude from the opposite end, being

covered by the end cap. It might even be possible to find an hour-glass shaped

sac that narrows at the barrel-end. Although, without the pen in hand it is difficult

to know if the barrel-end opening is large enough to admit a sac to pass.

 

Just a thought to keep the pen in use, after all these years.

 

Dan

Dan, thank you for a great idea that had not occurred to me. I shall explore the possibility of converting it to a bulb-fill.

-David (Estie).

[AL01]

Hi, does this pen company have any relation to the watch company???

[estie1948]

AL01, I have no proof yet, but I have always believed that this company did indeed produce watches and knives. I have seen two Waltham pocket knives and a watch chain (such as would be used with a vest) that had a Waltham pen knife on one end. Of course, none of this means that it was one and the same company. Hopefully someone will know or we can find some information.

 

-David (Estie).

Edited September 25, 2016 by estie1948

[AL01]

Hope so....

 

This is what I mean by a Waltham Pocket watch.

 

http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m8Qpahz91DerRP5s8lmPQog.jpg

 

This one is from the late 20s, but mabye you could determine an answer by looking at its key characteristics.