Questions About Different Polish Compunds

[angelov95]

What exactly does each of these things

 

Simichrome

Micro Gloss liquid abrassive

Renaissance Wax

Pre-Lim

 

I want to polish some caps and barrels and don't know what exactly to buy...

Also, I already have Micro Mesh and a jewelers rouge, so I do get to a certain point, but there are still hairline scratches.

 

What else would you recommend?

 

Also, out of curiosity, what about car polishes/scratch removers, are those okay, or too abrasive?

 

Thanks for reading!

[Kelly G]

I don't know about the others, but Simichrome is marginally useful for polishing metal parts. You need to use a VERY small amount and rub lightly with a soft cloth, then buff immediately with a clean soft cloth. Too much pressure and you can remove gold plating fairly quickly. The downside of simichrome is that it makes a mess, getting into any crevice or crack, such as up against the base of a clip and it is almost impossible to completely remove from these places.

 

For plastic, I use a buffing compound, especially for plastic that I buy from The Eastwood Company: www.eastwood.com They also sell an assortment of buffing wheels and other compounds.

[Left FPN]

I use T-Cut on lacquer coated and plastic pens to very good effect.

 

After polishing I ultrasonic clean to remove paste from the difficult areas. Followed by air blowing and then warm room drying. Then final polish with a rouge cloth.

[ppdiaporama]

I use Meguiar's Plastx Cleaner Polish for my plastic pens. It's made for headlights! It removes the microscratches and gives the pen a good sheen.

[angelov95]

I use Meguiar's Plastx Cleaner Polish for my plastic pens. It's made for headlights! It removes the microscratches and gives the pen a good sheen.

Thanks! I have a couple of similar polishes, might as well see how they work on some pens!

[angelov95]

I use T-Cut on lacquer coated and plastic pens to very good effect.

 

After polishing I ultrasonic clean to remove paste from the difficult areas. Followed by air blowing and then warm room drying. Then final polish with a rouge cloth.

Looking into that! Thank you!

[angelov95]

I don't know about the others, but Simichrome is marginally useful for polishing metal parts. You need to use a VERY small amount and rub lightly with a soft cloth, then buff immediately with a clean soft cloth. Too much pressure and you can remove gold plating fairly quickly. The downside of simichrome is that it makes a mess, getting into any crevice or crack, such as up against the base of a clip and it is almost impossible to completely remove from these places.

 

For plastic, I use a buffing compound, especially for plastic that I buy from The Eastwood Company: www.eastwood.com They also sell an assortment of buffing wheels and other compounds.

I would clean the mess with an ultrasonic cleaner, if it is able to.

Thank you!

[ac12]

 

I would clean the mess with an ultrasonic cleaner, if it is able to.

Thank you!

 

 

I would NOT use an USC to clean off excess polishing compound.

 

If you use an USC, you MUST get ALL the water out of the pen quickly.

Left wet, for a day, and the iron parts will start to rust; J-bar, pressure-bar, lever, C-ring, clip, etc. The specific parts depends on the pen.

The problem is, there are places in different pens that will be almost impossible to get the water out of.

- Like between the inner and outer caps, as using compressed air will likely push the water further in, rather than out.

- Inside the barrel of a lever filler, unless you pull the section.

[FarmBoy]

   

 

I would NOT use an USC to clean off excess polishing compound.

 

If you use an USC, you MUST get ALL the water out of the pen quickly.

Left wet, for a day, and the iron parts will start to rust; J-bar, pressure-bar, lever, C-ring, clip, etc. The specific parts depends on the pen.

The problem is, there are places in different pens that will be almost impossible to get the water out of.

- Like between the inner and outer caps, as using compressed air will likely push the water further in, rather than out.

- Inside the barrel of a lever filler, unless you pull the section.

You can share the pictures of my experiment on the desk pen that was 'sonicated' as directed.

[fabri00]

Renaissance waX is not a polish, but a kind of protection that increase also shining (not that much) and helps to reduce visibility of micro-scratches.

 

Polish are abrasive, and I also use successfully since long time metal polish on plastic and celluloid surfaces.

You have to pay attention to cover the metal parts because you risk to abrade the plating while polishing plastic or celluloid.

 

I don't use simichrome as it is jot available here, but something similar.

[terim]

We like Novus and buy the fine scratch remover by the gallon!

[angelov95]

Renaissance waX is not a polish, but a kind of protection that increase also shining (not that much) and helps to reduce visibility of micro-scratches.

 

Polish are abrasive, and I also use successfully since long time metal polish on plastic and celluloid surfaces.

You have to pay attention to cover the metal parts because you risk to abrade the plating while polishing plastic or celluloid.

 

I don't use simichrome as it is jot available here, but something similar.

I've also read it keeps the pen clean from fingerprints, I think..

 

Thank you!

[drop_m]

Renaissance waX is not a polish, but a kind of protection that increase also shining (not that much) and helps to reduce visibility of micro-scratches.

 

Polish are abrasive, and I also use successfully since long time metal polish on plastic and celluloid surfaces.

You have to pay attention to cover the metal parts because you risk to abrade the plating while polishing plastic or celluloid.

 

I don't use simichrome as it is jot available here, but something similar.

 

Hi fabri00, since i can see from your profile flag you're italian as me, can you please tell me the name of the polish product you've mentioned above? I'm looking for a alternative polish for my pens and simichrome is expensive and difficult to find

[angelov95]

 

Hi fabri00, since i can see from your profile flag you're italian as me, can you please tell me the name of the polish product you've mentioned above? I'm looking for a alternative polish for my pens and simichrome is expensive and difficult to find

I live in Spain, and one of the few places I've found that sell Simichrome is www.vintagepensacsandparts.com

 

But I would also like to know about fabri00's polish.

[fabri00]

I use:

 

Losso multiuser polishing cream, for plastic and metals (carefully).

 

Novus 1,2 and 3, for plastic.

 

Sidol, for plastic (yes, Sidol is for silver bur I use it since many years on plastic. I don't use it for metals).

[fabri00]

After polishing I use either Novus shiner, or Renaissance carnauba wax.

[kirchh]

After polishing I use either Novus shiner, or Renaissance carnauba wax.

 

I don't recommend either product; Novus leaves behind a film of silicone, and Renaissance wax (which is not carnauba wax) is almost impossible to remove should that be desired.

 

--Daniel

[fabri00]

Ok,but the film left from novo is very thin and easy to disappear.

Renaissance waX leave a more durable effect.

[kirchh]

Ok,but the film left from novo is very thin and easy to disappear.

Renaissance waX leave a more durable effect.

 

The silicone film deposited by some of the Novus polishes makes the pen feel slippery to me, so I avoid it, and I find it difficult to completely remove. As noted, Renaissance Wax is quite difficult to remove. I have concerns about it trapping the products of celluloid decomposition, exacerbating or accelerating that decomposition.

 

--Daniel

[drop_m]

I use:

 

Losso multiuser polishing cream, for plastic and metals (carefully).

 

Novus 1,2 and 3, for plastic.

 

Sidol, for plastic (yes, Sidol is for silver bur I use it since many years on plastic. I don't use it for metals).

 

I'm using Sidol on plastic pens. Actually, is the only product i've tried so far since i've start repairing pens more or less one year ago. It works fine but i'm wondering if there are others products which does a better and quicker job.

Can you compare it with other products you have used?