How Can I Fix A Crack On The Barrel?

[drop_m]

I've a problem with a Watermans 515 which mounts a flex W5 nib. I can't actually flex it because of a crack where the barrel meets the section (check the photograph below to further details). As long as i write normally, everything's alright but when i attempt to do flex writing, i start to hear disturbing creaking from that area.

Now the question: can someone helps me to figure out how to seal that crack?

 

 

[scrivelry]

I don't know where a Waterman 515 falls, exactly, on the vintage Waterman price/rarity continuum, but since it has a springy nib I am going to think somewhere above the Wearevers I've got laying around.

 

Your best bet is to contact any one of the many respected pen repair people used by folks on this board and get it done by them.

 

I say this because this is a case where you have to do solvent welding, and possibly insert a metal sleeve inside the barrel first, at which point the diameter of the section where it goes into the barrel gets reduced - none of this is first time pen repair stuff.

 

I do my own pen repair, but I have been doing it on Wearevers and no name pens, and I have not yet attempted a solvent weld. Because I do my own work I can't recommend anyone from my own experience, but no doubt others will come along who can. Best of luck with this pen!

Edited April 9, 2016 by scrivelry

[drop_m]

well.. yes, is a vintage fountain pen (circa 1950 or so) but i've acquired it from lot auction and it was in bad conditions (even the nib is not original). I've manage to fix all the problems except this and i'll prefer to do the work on my own - since is not a valuable pen and i'm learning how to repair pens, i'll use this as a case study.

[pen lady]

Your results may vary, but this is how I've fixed a cracked barrel mouth on a Parker Challenger. You'll need some thin brass sheet (don't ask me the thickness, but the stuff that's recommended for "flossing" nib tines seems right) and some 2 part epoxy adhesive with a reasonably slow "curing" time. Cut a strip of brass wide enough to cover the crack and long enough to go round the inside of the barrel mouth, no gap, no overlap. Mix up the epoxy and apply it to the inside of the barrel mouth and put in the brass collar pressing it well in to place then quickly clamp the barrel mouth closed, I've used a clothes pin or masking tape, and continue to make sure the brass collar is well positioned. Now go away and leave everything for the recommended time. You will probably have to reduce the diameter of the section where it goes into the barrel mouth but proceed with caution, don't take too much off. As I said, your results may vary, so good luck. Sorry to any of the professionals out there, have I made you wince? If so, I'm sure I'll get a correction pretty quickly

[FarmBoy]

Better to use a brass tube if you are going to install a sleeve in the barrel. Also better to remove just enough of the inner barrel wall to make a flat and clean surface then turn the sleeve to fit. You will also as indicated need to turn down the section to fit into the sleeve. Make the sleeve at least 2X the length of the threads, longer if you can.

 

You will need a lathe to do this properly and keep everything lined up.

 

[FarmBoy]

Better to use a brass tube if you are going to install a sleeve in the barrel. Also better to remove just enough of the inner barrel wall to make a flat and clean surface then turn the sleeve to fit. You will also as indicated need to turn down the section to fit into the sleeve. Make the sleeve at least 2X the length of the threads, longer if you can.

 

You will need a lathe to do this properly and keep everything lined up.

 

I should mention that you need not use brass, other materials are acceptable as the sleeve.

[drop_m]

Thank you for the useful tips!
Since i've no much confidence with bi-component epoxy adhesives, can someone recommend me a type/brand which can be used in the above described process?