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Waterman Cartridges And Converters


RMN

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The same will eventually happen to the later converters (post 2, item 13). The latest and current version (item 15) does not have a good reputation. I have had a few and still have and the moulding is not good quality. Please be aware that some online retailers, while they show a picture of the earlier version, actually provide the current version. The BIG River company are one such retailer and they refuse to post my review on this error.

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It's probably worth mentioning that the current Waterman piston (screw) converter (item 15) is essentially exactly the same as both the current Parker and current rotring parts. The only differences are in the moulding at the open end: the Waterman is black, the rotring is translucent white and the Parker is also black, but of course using a wider front opening. Both the Waterman and Parker units are branded, the rotring is unmarked.

 

HTH,

 

Martin

The Writing Desk

Fountain Pen Specialists since 2000

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It's probably worth mentioning that the current Waterman piston (screw) converter (item 15) is essentially exactly the same as both the current Parker and current rotring parts. The only differences are in the moulding at the open end: the Waterman is black, the rotring is translucent white and the Parker is also black, but of course using a wider front opening. Both the Waterman and Parker units are branded, the rotring is unmarked.

 

HTH,

 

Martin

 

Thx Martin.

 

I believe the older "current" converters were Schmidt made, with a different mouthpiece/nipple (whatever your preferred name)

 

They moved to another manufacturer, possibly in-house? This one isn't way as nice as the Schmidt one.

 

 

 

 

D.ick

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KEEP SAFE, WEAR A MASK, KEEP A DISTANCE.

Freedom exists by virtue of self limitation.

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

Overpriced is a matter of opinion. They are getting scarce hence prices go up.

 

Nothing to do about that. AFAIK no one is currently making new ones.

 

 

 

D.ick

 

No one is making new ones (AFAIK) but pentooling.com has a large amount of NOS available at what I think is a reasonable $20 each. Plus ship.

http://pentooling.com/Images/CF%20CARTRIDGE%204.JPG

 

 

 

Of interest to C/F aficionados, pentooling has also started making C/F ballpoint refills. They only come in black, but it's a lot easier than trying to cut and accurately crimp a Cross refill. $10 plus ship. And no, I don't get kickbacks. He was just helpful in my search for C/F ballpoint refills and workarounds.

http://pentooling.com/Images/CF%20REFILLS%20%20A.jpg

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  • 3 months later...

I've had trouble with converters and even cartridges in some vintage watermans. I finally found a converter for a gold C/F that actually works. I have others, though, that I can't find anything to fit, specifically my Ligne-60, Executive, exclusive, etc. Nothing fits my ligne 60 but I jerry rigged an old long cartridge for the exec. and excl. but it is not satisfactory. Is there a secret index of all of the different cartridges/converters for the different waterman's models? Help!

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I've had trouble with converters and even cartridges in some vintage watermans. I finally found a converter for a gold C/F that actually works. I have others, though, that I can't find anything to fit, specifically my Ligne-60, Executive, exclusive, etc. Nothing fits my ligne 60 but I jerry rigged an old long cartridge for the exec. and excl. but it is not satisfactory. Is there a secret index of all of the different cartridges/converters for the different waterman's models? Help!

Cartridges items 7 & 8 and converters 11 thro 15 fit the Executive and Exclusive pens. If they do not you have a faulty section. Look up inside the section and make sure the proboscis is not damaged. I have had a new section where the moulding was either poor or it has been damaged by a user.

 

Cartridge Item 16, the No 23 is the only one to fit the Ligne 60...i believe. They do appear on eBay so keep an eye there.

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I have been checking converters, items 11 through 15, post #2, in my box of spares.

 

You may or may not be experiencing flow and filling problems so it is worth checking your converter regularly.

 

How to check your converter,

 

1. Remove all the ink.

2. Place the converter into a bowl of warm soapy water. Activate the piston to ensure water is inside the unit. Leave it to soak for 12 hours.

3. Remove the converter from the water and eject all the water from within.

4. Hold the converter under running water and activate the piston in and out a few times to clear out any soapy water or debris.

5. At this stage I leave the unit to dry but it matters little for the following tests.

6. Wind the piston so that it is just inside the mouth.

7. Hold one finger over the mouth and wind the piston out stopping 1/3 maximum movement. Remove finger and you should hear the vacuum release (pop).

8. Place finger over mouth and wind the piston to 2/3 maximum movement. Remove finger and you should hear a lesser pop than at 1/3.

9. Place finger over mouth and wind the piston to its full movement. Remove finger and you should hear a slightly lesser pop than 2/3.

 

If you do not hear that pop, at any of the test positions, you have a faulty converter. Air is either entering at the mouth seal or the piston seal. Check both for perishing or splits. Unfortunately the parts are not replaceable so a new converter is required.

 

Out of 8 spare converters I have 3 which are faulty.

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  • 2 weeks later...

A picture showing the feed together with feed adapter fitted (top left) from a Carene and a selection of the modern converters.

 

The seal is made between the feed adapter and the inner mouth of the converter. There is no external seal at this point.

 

 

 

 

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  • 8 months later...

I am trying to source a converter or even a compatible ink cartridge for my Waterman Super Master. The new style standard converter fits into the section/feeder with good close tolerance but not close enough ink as ink seeps through eventually. I dissembled the nib/feeder/section (a straight pull out) and measured the feeder diameter as 1.5mm which is much thinner than the inside diameter of the standard converter, so no seal there.

I saw an image of the #2 item 13 converter for sale at Penbox in Epworth, UK but they sent me a new style converter saying "Sorry, but the Waterman pen converters with the metal end have now been replaced with the converter sent out. The earlier ones with the metal trim are no longer available from Waterman."

​Is there anything I can do to get this pen supplied with ink as I use my pens to write with.

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I am trying to source a converter or even a compatible ink cartridge for my Waterman Super Master. The new style standard converter fits into the section/feeder with good close tolerance but not close enough ink as ink seeps through eventually. I dissembled the nib/feeder/section (a straight pull out) and measured the feeder diameter as 1.5mm which is much thinner than the inside diameter of the standard converter, so no seal there.

I saw an image of the #2 item 13 converter for sale at Penbox in Epworth, UK but they sent me a new style converter saying "Sorry, but the Waterman pen converters with the metal end have now been replaced with the converter sent out. The earlier ones with the metal trim are no longer available from Waterman."

​Is there anything I can do to get this pen supplied with ink as I use my pens to write with.

That 1.5mm spigot on the feed then passes through another spigot which is moulded inside the grip increasing the diameter to about 2.5mm. Its that part which enters the cartridge/converter mouth. Waterman Standard International cartridges are available from WHSmith, John Lewis or Amazon UK.

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Thanks for the response Force. I have tried the new style Waterman International Converter and the small international cartridges nether of which seat well enough to seal the connection. They are a good firm fit into the section so there is no waggling around but the cartridge mouth mustn't seal over the 'spigot' properly.

I'm pretty sure the Waterman Super Master accepted the old style converter with the grooved metal around the end - this may have had a closer fit over the spigot and the grooves may have helped to seal the converter against the section sides. I'm looking to see if anyone can confirm this, but no luck so far.

If I put a small thin coat of shellac around the end of a Waterman Standard International cartridge where the old style had grooved metal, do you think this would seal the connection pro tem?

post-138306-0-90112200-1502402841_thumb.jpg

Edited by Gubbins
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Would appreciate some info about where to score a new CF converter. Have seen them on Ebay, but they seem way overpriced--or is it just me? Thanks in advance

 

They are usually available on Amazon UK I don't know if they ship to the US though. These are the best priced ones I have seen. :)

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Thanks for the response Force. I have tried the new style Waterman International Converter and the small international cartridges nether of which seat well enough to seal the connection. They are a good firm fit into the section so there is no waggling around but the cartridge mouth mustn't seal over the 'spigot' properly.

I'm pretty sure the Waterman Super Master accepted the old style converter with the grooved metal around the end - this may have had a closer fit over the spigot and the grooves may have helped to seal the converter against the section sides. I'm looking to see if anyone can confirm this, but no luck so far.

If I put a small thin coat of shellac around the end of a Waterman Standard International cartridge where the old style had grooved metal, do you think this would seal the connection pro tem?

Inside Section Top.JPG

Odd.

My Super master takes the modern converter with no issues.

Maybe there were earlier and later supermasters , which used old style, then new style converters.

Old c/f carts can be found on ebay, but I found that none of my carts were narrow enough to fit in the barrel, and only the new style converter fitted.

 

Ian

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Thanks for the response Force. I have tried the new style Waterman International Converter and the small international cartridges nether of which seat well enough to seal the connection. They are a good firm fit into the section so there is no waggling around but the cartridge mouth mustn't seal over the 'spigot' properly.

I'm pretty sure the Waterman Super Master accepted the old style converter with the grooved metal around the end - this may have had a closer fit over the spigot and the grooves may have helped to seal the converter against the section sides. I'm looking to see if anyone can confirm this, but no luck so far.

If I put a small thin coat of shellac around the end of a Waterman Standard International cartridge where the old style had grooved metal, do you think this would seal the connection pro tem?

Inside Section Top.JPG

I am sorry to say but the grip is damaged. It is missing the moulded spigot I mentioned above.

 

It should look something like this,

 

 

 

 

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Ooops! Thanks Force, that discovery saves me looking for a rare converter that wouldn't solve my problem even if I found one. As I don't keep the pens just for show and I cannot put this one up for sale and I don't want to use it as a dip pen ...I'll have to fix it in some way.

I'm going to try a thin coat of shellac around the bottom of a new (just bought) Waterman converter, push it into the section, turn it a little to spread out the Shellac then leave it a while before trying it out. This may give me a semi -permanent fix or I'll have to clean it up and think of another way to seal the contact.

Thanks again - nice photo, explains it all.

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That sounds like a very good idea. Rough up the outer surface of the converter end with emery paper first to remove any moulding release agent (silicone).

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  • 1 month later...

Hi, I've had my pen in storage for a while, but the push-fit cartridges no longer seem to want to stay - it looks like I've the same problem as Gubbins, above.

 

In others' experience will this be possible to fix? If so, can anyone provide some recommendations in London?

 

http://alexlivingstone.com/img/IMG_2392.jpg http://alexlivingstone.com/img/IMG_2395.jpg

 

http://alexlivingstone.com/img/IMG_2401.jpg

Edited by alexlivingstone
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  • 2 months later...

Warning! :excl: Don't use Isopropyl Alcohol for cleaning

Hello, I learnt the hard way, using my converter in a Waterman Kultur for just a couple of times with Salix - Rohrer & Klingner, wanted to change for another ink and some spot that I couldn't clean in the inside tip, so I had the "clever" idea to use Isopropyl Alcohol, in a couple of seconds it cracked,shattered.

I think it's burned as a result of the alcohol.

A couple of pictures to illustrate how it remained.


 

 

 

 

post-50225-0-03185700-1511218678_thumb.jpg

post-50225-0-17149600-1511218691_thumb.jpg

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Warning! :excl: Don't use Isopropyl Alcohol for cleaning

 

Hello, I learnt the hard way, using my converter in a Waterman Kultur for just a couple of times with Salix - Rohrer & Klingner, wanted to change for another ink and some spot that I couldn't clean in the inside tip, so I had the "clever" idea to use Isopropyl Alcohol, in a couple of seconds it cracked,shattered.

 

I think it's burned as a result of the alcohol.

 

A couple of pictures to illustrate how it remained.

Nope,

 

 

Warm soapy water and ultrasonics is all I use.

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