Identify The Year Of This Pelikan 100

[sarangm]

Guys, need some help identifying this Pelikan 100 year. It's 4.25" capped. There is no ink window. The barrel is black with a step where the cap ends.. There is no taper and lip to the section. 14 ct nib, press fit. No screw in collar. Any thoughts / ideas?

[christof]

some further informations were needed:

 

- logo in cap, new or old?

- cap material, HR or celluloid?

 

The section looks wrong and may be a replacement. The inkview is most certain darkened and lost transparency.

 

c.

Edited November 11, 2015 by christof

[Christopher Godfrey]

sarangm, pay attention to what Christof has to say: he knows his Pelikans; but, if you need confirmation, at first glance I also thought the section looks wrong (from some later model, I'd say) -- it ought to have some <shape> and flare to it, closest to the nib...

[sarangm]

Hi Christof, the logo is new. The cap is all celluloid. The cap head is straight, does not taper.

 

Christopher, I thought it was actually the other way round. The very early model had the non tapering section, and no lip near the nib. They added it later on. In fact, the shape of the section, and the fact that the nib and the feed are press fit without a screw in collar makes me think that it's an early model. But I could be totally wrong. Thank you so much for sharing your thoughts and observations.

Edited November 11, 2015 by sarangm

[Christopher Godfrey]

We-ell, I may be wrong -- let's see what others have to say...(the most important thing, of course, is how it writes!)

[sarangm]

I have only dip tested it. Writes very smooth. Looks like it does have a green ink window. Someone must have used waterproof ink and let it dry.

Edited November 11, 2015 by sarangm

[christof]

Okay, thanks for the infos.

Your pen looks to be mixed up with parts of different periods. Not that uncommon for Pelikan 100's...

 

The cap seems to be from 1938-194x, may be the clip is a replacement as well.

The barrel is earlyer, maybe ca. 1932-1935 (this can be seen at the thicker part at the end. There is a brass ring for reinforcement of the rear threads under the black binde.)

The section is wrong. The shape is different from a 1929 pen.

 

Have a kook at Dominic Rothemels site. There is a very detailled timeline with pictures to find.

 

c.

[sarangm]

Thanks Cristof. Great info. I had a suspicion that the cap was a replacement piece. What year would you put the section? I remember seeing reference to a press fit nib and feed, but don't remember where. BTW, I have a 37 100 pen(CN nib), but the diameter is bigger than this one.

Edited November 12, 2015 by sarangm

[christof]

This is how the section of a first and second year pen should look:

 

 

And this is a later, after 1932 section:

 

 

Your section seems to be a non Pelikan replacement part.

There are no friction fit nib units on Pelikan 100, this came later in 1950 on very early Pelikan 400: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/273655-1956-pelikan-400nn-tortoise-with-a-friction-fit-ob-nib/?p=3109486

 

 

 

 

C.

Edited November 12, 2015 by christof

[sarangm]

That confirms it! I guess I am lucky to have a Franeknpen in good working order. Someone must have put in a lot of work on it :-).

 

Thank you so much for sharing all the info. Now, what would be the best way to clean the waterproof ink from the window without doing any damage to the piston seal?

[christof]

...taking the pen apart and cleaning the barrel from inside, with a tube brush.

c.

Edited November 13, 2015 by christof

[sarangm]

I was afraid of that. Not too thrilled about taking apart a working pen. I do have a 100n that leaks from the bottom. Any tips about getting a replacement seal?

[christof]

David Nishimura (vintagepens.com) is selling replacement seals for 100N. Tom Westerich (penboard.de) as well.

C.

[sarangm]

Thanks Christof. Appreciate all the help.