Will Threads Always Benefit From Lubrication?

[DevrimJan]

I have this obsession with ensuring that my possessions get the longest longevity possible, and since hearing things about threads getting worn down (especially metal to plastic ones) I have been wondering if threads on my pens, even plastic to plastic, would last longer with some lubrication. The answer would have obviously been yes, but then I heard that even silicone grease will weaken plastic with time. So yeah, should I lube up the threads or not, if long term longevity is what is desired?

 

Also, how important is it that the silicone grease in question is 100%? Silicone grease is hard to come by where I am, and the one brand I was able to find was Polypipe. Anyone have any experiences with this brand?

 

Are there any other kinds of lubrication that may be better than silicone?

Edited June 19, 2015 by DevrimJan

[carlos.q]

You can get 100% silicone grease at your local scuba diving supplies shop.

[kirchh]

I wouldn't lubricate cap-to-barrel threads at all. It will reduce the ratio between the static and dynamic coefficients of friction and thereby make the cap prone to loosening, and the lubricant will inevitably get on your fingers and then elsewhere on the pen.

 

--Daniel

[FayeV]

I wouldn't lubricate cap-to-barrel threads at all. It will reduce the ratio between the static and dynamic coefficients of friction and thereby make the cap prone to loosening, and the lubricant will inevitably get on your fingers and then elsewhere on the pen.

 

What would be safe to use on the threads, to reduce the ("nails on chalkboard") noise made by screwing a metal cap on/off.

[kirchh]

What would be safe to use on the threads, to reduce the ("nails on chalkboard") noise made by screwing a metal cap on/off.

 

What kind of pen?

 

--Daniel

[ac12]

• Don't use silicone grease where you would not want it getting on your hand.

• From what I understand and have experienced myself, silicone grease once on is very difficult to remove. So think twice before putting it on.

• As Daniel said, some things should not be greased or lubed. One reason is the lube makes it easy to screw the part in too much. Screw a plastic cap on too much and....crack...you just cracked the cap.

• For the cap, you could try bee's wax or parafin on the threads.

[FayeV]

 

What kind of pen?

 

--Daniel

 

It's a Must de Cartier in malachite green.

(Looks exactly like this one : http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/de-cartier-18k-gold-ltd-edition-green-424974304 , except mine definitely looks and feels "user" grade The snap cap doesn't even stay firmly on anymore, sigh... )

 

Sorry, I typed the previous post this morning while in a pre-caffeinated state. I meant to say that there is a gawdawful squeak while screwing the barrel & section. The threads are metal, on the section side and on the barrel side. And it takes a bazillion turns to screw the thing on or off. Well, actually 11 complete turns.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[FayeV]

 

• For the cap, you could try bee's wax or parafin on the threads.

 

 

Hmmm... maybe a little Burt's Bees beeswax lip balm will do the trick.

[Ron Z]

I would not lubricate barrel threads for reasons already mentioned. The possibility of over tightening the threads and therefore cracking the cap is very real and usually results in looking for another cap. Greasy, slippery fingers will be a problem, and removing silicone grease without damaging the finish on the pen will be difficult.

 

For squeaky threads, try ear plugs.

[Vintagepens]

Wax would be my solution for the section-to-barrel threads in this instance.

 

I also do believe that in almost all cases of alleged thread wear, the loss of engagement isn't actually due to thread-to-thread wear. What one does see is threads that no longer engage due to shrinkage and overpolishing -- as in buffing a pen, threads included.

[FarmBoy]

Wax would be my solution for the section-to-barrel threads in this instance.

 

I also do believe that in almost all cases of alleged thread wear, the loss of engagement isn't actually due to thread-to-thread wear. What one does see is threads that no longer engage due to shrinkage and overpolishing -- as in buffing a pen, threads included.

I thought a thread buffer was a slight recess at the end of the threaded part on a blind thread such that the tool bit has room to stop outside the thread groove resulting in a void area at the end of the mating part such that it can ride free allowing for expansion/contraction and always be fully engaged.

 

Do people really still buffer threads when cutting on a CNC lathe that can stop in time?

Edited June 20, 2015 by FarmBoy

[ac12]

FayeV

 

Come to the Pen Posse in Millbrae tomorrow (Sunday), and bring the pen.

[rafapa]

In this video

approx. 7.40 min. It looks like they apply something to the section threads.