Park Row Pen

[Orockthro]

Hi guys! I'm very new to the world of fountain pens, but excited to learn. I recently got this (somewhat beat up) "Park Row" fountain pen. I know it's a branch of the Eclipse pens, but frankly, I'm having a really hard time finding much else out about pens like it.

Pics are attached.

Basically: can anyone tell me more? What era did these come from? It sounds like there were a bunch of yellow ones made, anyone know why other than fashion? Any tips and tricks to getting it fixed up? (beyond the awesome help sections on this site that I'll be utilizing)

This is my first fountain pen, and my first post here, so please go easy on me.

Thanks in advance!

 

PS please note the writing on the second image is unrelated to the pen. This one is currently not working. I just didn't clear my things off to take a clear picture - oops!

[rwilsonedn]

Wow! Nice pen. Looks like other than missing a metal band on the cap (purely cosmetic) it is in great shape. You should be able to just soak out the dried ink, replace the sac, and adjust the nib to have a great-looking, great-writing pen.

As you've probably read already, these subsidiary-brand pens are regarded as "third-tier," meaning not that they were poor quality, but that they used functional rather than expensive parts and materials: nice celluloid, inexpensive metal decoration and clips, and usually gold-washed steel nibs. (If your nib says 14K Gold, rather than 14K Gold Plated or GP, then you have even more of a treasure. In that case, somebody probably switched out the original nib for a nicer one.)

I don't have authoritative information, but I would guess the pen is from the mid-1930s to early 1940s. The color is not rare, but I would say yellow was one of the less common colors. In first-tier pens it is highly valued.

Congratulations, and enjoy your refurbishing!

ron

[DanDeM]

Eclipse Pen Co. founded by Marx Finestone in 1910, initially offered pens like this BCHR ED and Sleeve filler.

 

 

 

...along with overlays and filigrees like this

 

 

By the '20s, materials had evolved and they produced pens like this...

 

 

They produced a number of sub-brands that include Park Row, Marxton and Jackwin. Also made

private label pens for Keene and Sears.

 

Opened a manufacturing facility in Canada. By 1935ish, closed their stateside facility and produced

pens into the '50s from Canada that include Monroe, Deluxe, Vis-O-Ray, Streamline.

 

American made pens usually carry 14k Warranted nibs, although 14k nibs with an Eclipse imprint

are not uncommon. Plated nibs appear later, as the brand went into its declining years.

 

Monroe's were the top of their line in the late '30's/early '40's and today command top dollar.

(There's one listed on eBay now with a BIN of $695.00...doubt if he'll ever get it, but $375 is not unlikely).

 

Here's a rare example, a Combo in RHR...

 

This is a very quick and dirty recap of the brand. Long, fascinating history and early on, some

good looking, well made pens.

Edited May 6, 2015 by DanDeM

[Orockthro]

Sorry for the late reply, but a huge thank you to both rwilsonedn and DanDeM. Dan, that's a great history lesson!

 

  On 5/5/2015 at 7:03 PM, rwilsonedn said:

Wow! Nice pen. Looks like other than missing a metal band on the cap (purely cosmetic) it is in great shape. You should be able to just soak out the dried ink, replace the sac, and adjust the nib to have a great-looking, great-writing pen.

As you've probably read already, these subsidiary-brand pens are regarded as "third-tier," meaning not that they were poor quality, but that they used functional rather than expensive parts and materials: nice celluloid, inexpensive metal decoration and clips, and usually gold-washed steel nibs. (If your nib says 14K Gold, rather than 14K Gold Plated or GP, then you have even more of a treasure. In that case, somebody probably switched out the original nib for a nicer one.)

I don't have authoritative information, but I would guess the pen is from the mid-1930s to early 1940s. The color is not rare, but I would say yellow was one of the less common colors. In first-tier pens it is highly valued.

Congratulations, and enjoy your refurbishing!

ron

 

I've started the refurbishing process, and a little cleaning shows the nib says "Warranted 14K" - does that make it a proper gold nib then?

I did my first sac replacement tonight and will be testing it out tomorrow. I'm a little nervous, lol!

PS Anyone have any good ideas on how to get rid of the staining? I gave it a good soak and the green stains are diminished, but still present. I don't mind them a ton; I think it gives character. But a super clean pen is probably a good thing.

 

Thanks in advance! It's been so fun to realize how much fountain pen knowledge is out there. Everyone around here is so helpful and welcoming!

[DanDeM]

Unlikely that all of the stains can be removed, which is why clean examples are more collectible.

A mild solution of ammonia and water (10% ammonia/90%water) and a soft brush (like a beat-up

tooth brush) can help. Same for dishwashing detergent and water. Use warm, not hot water. When

working on the threads (on the barrel or inside the cap), be extra gentle. You don't want to break

one and have the cap fit improperly.

If you soak the pen, be certain that the interior is absolutely dry when you are done. Inside of the

barrel is a steel JBar that will rust, and fail if left wet.

More. Don't forget to talc the sac before you put the the section back in place.

And. Yes, the nib is solid 14k gold.

Finally. Congrats on your repair.

[Orockthro]

  On 5/8/2015 at 6:25 PM, DanDeM said:

Unlikely that all of the stains can be removed, which is why clean examples are more collectible.

 

A mild solution of ammonia and water (10% ammonia/90%water) and a soft brush (like a beat-up

tooth brush) can help. Same for dishwashing detergent and water. Use warm, not hot water. When

working on the threads (on the barrel or inside the cap), be extra gentle. You don't want to break

one and have the cap fit improperly.

 

If you soak the pen, be certain that the interior is absolutely dry when you are done. Inside of the

barrel is a steel JBar that will rust, and fail if left wet.

 

More. Don't forget to talc the sac before you put the the section back in place.

 

And. Yes, the nib is solid 14k gold.

 

Finally. Congrats on your repair.

 

Thank you so much for all the advice! I took it, and things went great. There are still some stains on the pen, but I've decided to give up and call it character.

It was a super success!

http://i.imgur.com/eJdTpL8.jpg?1

... And now I have the fountain pen bug, lol. I want to fix up more!

[DanDeM]

Neat!

 

Just remember, you're not really insane until you reach the point where

when you screw the barrel into the cap, the lever must line up with the clip.

[Greenie]

Dan,

 

what if you don't INSIST on the lever lining up with the clip, but you try REALLY REALLY hard to get them to line up? Is there a diagnosis for that?

[OneRiotOneRanger]

Just an additional thought or two, to be added to Dan's information:

 

When encountering their Monroe model, note the imprint: Glorifying the American Fountain Pen.

 

Pay attention to the design of Eclipse products' section, feed and lever (containing a laurel wreath); they are unique. Their clips were clasped with their exclusive "U" shaped mount.

 

And their celluloid, using a process Marx Finstone designed, was wrapped into bonded seams. Not only distinctive, but a cost- and time-saver in manufacturing. And many pens featured the brightly colored end plugs.

 

Hope I've added a little.

 

Paul Bloch