... homemade journal ...

[TMLee]

Drat !

 

There goes my bandwidth again ...

 

Just mouse over the captions ...

It'll bring you to the photobucket album

[canibanoglu]

TMLee, could I please trouble you for details on what paper you are using in your notebooks? I am stunned by your handiwork and all those pictures finally pushed me to try my hand at binding my own notebook. Last weekend I tried doing the Coptic stitch with cheap photocopy paper and I think I made a quite a good job so now I want to make the real deal.

 

I have requested a catalog of all Conqueror products and was a bit underwhelmed. I expected that the CX22 100 gsm paper would be a great fit but even that paper feathered with my wet writers. There are some heavier papers in the catalog that I *could* use but their texture takes away a lot from my writing experience. If only I had access to reams of Clairefontaine papers, still haven't found anything quite like them.

 

From what I can see from your pictures, the papers you use don't feather, bleed or end up being visible from the other side of the page and I would love it if you could list here the papers that you have used and which one was your favorite.

 

After deciding on the paper, the only thing that's left for me to do is to find a place to buy leather/faux-leather for the covers and I'll be merrily stitching!

 

Thank you very much in advance!

[TMLee]

TMLee, could I please trouble you for details on what paper you are using in your notebooks? I am stunned by your handiwork and all those pictures finally pushed me to try my hand at binding my own notebook. Last weekend I tried doing the Coptic stitch with cheap photocopy paper and I think I made a quite a good job so now I want to make the real deal.

 

I have requested a catalog of all Conqueror products and was a bit underwhelmed. I expected that the CX22 100 gsm paper would be a great fit but even that paper feathered with my wet writers. There are some heavier papers in the catalog that I *could* use but their texture takes away a lot from my writing experience. If only I had access to reams of Clairefontaine papers, still haven't found anything quite like them.

 

From what I can see from your pictures, the papers you use don't feather, bleed or end up being visible from the other side of the page and I would love it if you could list here the papers that you have used and which one was your favorite.

 

After deciding on the paper, the only thing that's left for me to do is to find a place to buy leather/faux-leather for the covers and I'll be merrily stitching!

 

Thank you very much in advance!

Thank you canibanoglu for your kind words :-)

 

Conqueror paper is good.

My experience with their Laid paper range (100g) is good.

The only setback is the texture on the paper which interferes with writing.

Other than that, it's good quality paper.

 

I have tried their Wove range, but it feathers badly.

 

The CX22 you mentioned is recycled paper.

I have no experience with it.

Being recycled also means that it has a lower chance of ink friendliness.

 

For me, it doesn't really matter what brand of paper.

If it works, it works !

 

My advice , is to look for any paper that meets your needs.

 

I did that when I stitched my first journal years ago.

I was like buying good quality journals to use with FP inks , but to my dismay, almost all didn't work with inks at all.

 

So I sought and found ink friendly paper first , then learnt to stitch.

 

I am fortunate to have a paper merchant where I live.

They sell all kinds of paper.

Their customers include people who want to print interesting namecards, catalogue publishers, graphic artists, wedding invites, art students, menu printing , etc

And that is what is propping up its business .

 

If you can find a stockist or similar, you will have your paper problems solved.

Look for those who print cards , invites etc and such, you have a higher chance of finding a wider range of paper with them.

( my guess is that their papers have to perform with all kinds of printing processes , wet or dry, hence they have to sell papers that do well in both )

 

If you can't find any, then look for art supplies stores, and if they still don't stock these,

then buy art paper in pads that you know take ink well.

But it's costlier.

 

 

 

The papers I have used , if I remember all ...

 

NATURALIS in 135g , 120g, 100g

 

MELLOTEX in 120g, 100g

 

NACHI in 124g

 

TOMOE RIVER paper , 52g !

 

Sugarcane Bagasse paper in 80g ( I am impressed )

 

CONQUEROR 100g, Laid

 

GALGO , 100g , Laid

 

CRANE paper , Goatskin boxed (expensive!)

 

CLAIREFONTAINE white pad 80g? (I forgot)

 

KRAFT paper too !

 

My favorite is NATURALIS , Natural white Matte or Brilliant White , 135g, smooth or Wove

(Takes any ink , including watercolor washes , sketches etc perfect - no bleedthru, not even shadow )

 

TR paper is great , but the shadow (or showthru) is bad.

 

There are lots more paper I have used before , even calligraphy paper (pad) which is guaranteed ink friendly, considering what it has to do.

 

 

Yes, all my journals are guaranteed ink friendly ,

The inktestpage on the first page is done before stitching.

So if it feathers, or bleeds thru , then it doesn't get stitched. The bookblock is replaced.

(Paper also deteriorates over time, depending on how it's stored)

It's tested with a very wet STIPULA Stub nib with a standard brown ink like PELIKAN Brilliant Brown.

 

The Colophon page takes more special ink like DIAMINE Monaco Red

and NOODLERS Black or X-Feather.

 

So far, my experience is that if the paper passes the PELIKAN ink test on the first page, the last page bearing more sophisticated ink formulas also won't have any problems.

 

 

 

So my advice, don't look for brand names, ..... look for ANY paper that can take ink.

For example, even India paper (iIRC someone posted in this forum somewhere) works !!!!

 

After a while, you will be able to guess , with some accuracy , just by touch, whether that paper can take ink or not. :-)

 

Most coated papers work well.

 

Japanese made papers are the best !

KOKUYO ,

MARUMAN,

MIDORI

 

But they are premium and quite costly .

 

HTH ...

 

Good luck on your search. :-)

 

and yes, stitching your own journals is highly satisfying !

Edited June 28, 2014 by TMLee

[canibanoglu]

Thank you VERY much for all the details! Unfortunately after some searching around I couldn't find most of the papers you mentioned in my country. The easiest ones for me to get are the Conqueror ones and as you said most of their papers that *can* be written on are very textured and takes away from the writing experience (for me).

 

So, I took your advice and and bought 40 sheets of 100 gsm paper that has a smooth surface and 40 sheets of 160 gsm paper in A3 size (I like A4 sized notebooks). I did try the 100 gsm before actually buying the papers and it is almost as smooth as Rhodia, feels sturdier and no feathering/bleedthrough/ghosting at all. Tried the 160 gsm when I came home and that one is even nicer and I will most likely use the 160 gsm paper for my first real notebook. It is going to be a bit thick though

 

All that's left for me to buy is some red thread, nice black vinyl or leather and some awesome paper for the book-block covers. I hope my first attempt turns out half as good as your notebooks, then I will be a happy person. I have a great design concept in my mind but I first have to learn how to cut a section out of the cover material and show a different color through that cut. You have made awesome stuff that way!

 

I will definitely post pictures here but the whole thing might take a bit of a time to complete. If you could offer me advice on the leather cutting/showing another color through the cut stuff, I would be very much in your debt.

[bassmannate]

You may have said in a previous post but I just can't find it. What kind of thread are you using for binding? Everything I've tried has been too fine to be striking like this.

[TMLee]

Thank you VERY much for all the details! Unfortunately after some searching around I couldn't find most of the papers you mentioned in my country. The easiest ones for me to get are the Conqueror ones and as you said most of their papers that *can* be written on are very textured and takes away from the writing experience (for me).

 

So, I took your advice and and bought 40 sheets of 100 gsm paper that has a smooth surface and 40 sheets of 160 gsm paper in A3 size (I like A4 sized notebooks). I did try the 100 gsm before actually buying the papers and it is almost as smooth as Rhodia, feels sturdier and no feathering/bleedthrough/ghosting at all. Tried the 160 gsm when I came home and that one is even nicer and I will most likely use the 160 gsm paper for my first real notebook. It is going to be a bit thick though

 

All that's left for me to buy is some red thread, nice black vinyl or leather and some awesome paper for the book-block covers. I hope my first attempt turns out half as good as your notebooks, then I will be a happy person. I have a great design concept in my mind but I first have to learn how to cut a section out of the cover material and show a different color through that cut. You have made awesome stuff that way!

 

I will definitely post pictures here but the whole thing might take a bit of a time to complete. If you could offer me advice on the leather cutting/showing another color through the cut stuff, I would be very much in your debt.

 

 

You're welcome

 

Yup ! Thats the thing to do , go get them paper yourself, nevermind what brand.

 

The 160g is very heavy (thick) paper.

Actually , the definition of card paper is paper that is 160g and above.

 

Becos its thick, you cant put too many Foilos into one Signature.

You will get very pronounced 'fish-tail' effect.

My guess the maximum is about 4 Folios per Signature.

 

You may also experience some problems folding the Folios becos its thick.

They may not crease easily.

Unless the fold is parallel to its grain. ( ie, fold along 'grain-long' )

 

Bookbinding is all about practice.

The only way to learn well is to just try it out and learn from mistakes.

I am sure you will do fine

 

 

For leather cut-outs ,

I explained here in this post ...

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/28367-homemade-journal/page-3?do=findComment&comment=319387

 

as explained in that post ,

I drew on masking tape,

which was pasted into position,

then cut out carefully.

 

The coloured paper is placed underneath after the cut-out.

 

HTH

Edited June 29, 2014 by TMLee

[TMLee]

You may have said in a previous post but I just can't find it. What kind of thread are you using for binding? Everything I've tried has been too fine to be striking like this.

 

you have to run a search in this superlong threadpost.

 

here are some posts ...

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/28367-homemade-journal/?view=findpost&p=262625

 

This is polyester thread for sewing leather ...

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/28367-homemade-journal/?view=findpost&p=319387

 

 

This is cotton thread unwaxed, which is thick and coarse

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/28367-homemade-journal/?view=findpost&p=895216

 

 

I have used dental floss before too.

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/28367-homemade-journal/?view=findpost&p=2031822

 

This thread is heavy at 1.2mm thick.

Flat profile.

Polyester thread used by cobblers to stitch shoes

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/28367-homemade-journal/?view=findpost&p=930048

 

 

This post explains the pros and cons of different kinds of thread profiles ...

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/28367-homemade-journal/?view=findpost&p=1181493

 

 

I use genuine linen thread waxed ,

#18 gauge , 4-ply

they are costly.

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/28367-homemade-journal/?view=findpost&p=1543305

 

 

here is a post about making your own waxed thread ...

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/28367-homemade-journal/?view=findpost&p=1723104

 

 

This is linen thread but unwaxed ...

its #20 gauge , 3-ply which is finer than #18 gauge

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/28367-homemade-journal/?view=findpost&p=2008037

 

essentially, I read from bookbinding forums that one needs to match the thread size to the book being stitched.

in other words,

Aside from structural considerations, its also pretty much an aesthetic judgement.

explained in this post ...

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/28367-homemade-journal/?view=findpost&p=2462391

 

 

of late , I prefer flat profile polyester thread. Waxed.

The are sold being specified as 0.8mm wide.

The flat profile allows the bookblock to remain less bulky becos the threads are flat and take up less space.

 

yet they are wide so as to give 'body' to the stitch patterns which are meant to be exposed to be appreciated.

 

HTH

[TMLee]

Pure natural silk ....

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/FABRICS/SILK%20VIETNAM/267.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/FABRICS/SILK%20VIETNAM/258.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/FABRICS/SILK%20VIETNAM/260.jpg

 

This one is interesting ...

it looks different from different angles in this video clip ..

 

[Kosmic-kowgirl]

well done on the homemade journals! they are beautiful!

[MissChief]

Pure natural silk ....

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/FABRICS/SILK%20VIETNAM/267.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/FABRICS/SILK%20VIETNAM/258.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/FABRICS/SILK%20VIETNAM/260.jpg

 

This one is interesting ...

it looks different from different angles in this video clip ..

 

 

Ohhhhh... I can't wait to see what your next few journals look like. That silk is stunning!!

[TMLee]

well done on the homemade journals! they are beautiful!

Thanks :-)

 

Happy you like them :-)

[TMLee]

Ohhhhh... I can't wait to see what your next few journals look like. That silk is stunning!!

Yeah ....

 

Me too !

 

But I think it will be challenging.

The silk cloths are very delicate.

 

Wondering how best to handle them....?

Maybe do an interface?

[TMLee]

I was wondering if Buckram could be used for emboss or deboss ...

 

and so I dug out my Lime Green Buckram and tried it out ...

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o704/tmleem4/JOURNALS/2014/190%20FPD%20Logo%202014%20-%20Orange%20Brillar/190G%20FPD%20Logo%202014%20-%20Buckram%20-%20Lime%20Green/004_zps265790fc.jpg

 

 

 

It worked !!!

 

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o704/tmleem4/JOURNALS/2014/190%20FPD%20Logo%202014%20-%20Orange%20Brillar/190G%20FPD%20Logo%202014%20-%20Buckram%20-%20Lime%20Green/006_zps343426d7.jpg

 

 

 

Closer view ...

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o704/tmleem4/JOURNALS/2014/190%20FPD%20Logo%202014%20-%20Orange%20Brillar/190G%20FPD%20Logo%202014%20-%20Buckram%20-%20Lime%20Green/007_zps0afd45f9.jpg

 

 

 

The material responded well in my usual way of folding-in the corners.

It can be flattened ...

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o704/tmleem4/JOURNALS/2014/190%20FPD%20Logo%202014%20-%20Orange%20Brillar/190G%20FPD%20Logo%202014%20-%20Buckram%20-%20Lime%20Green/009_zps4ff829f6.jpg

 

 

I am Happy ...

 

 

[TMLee]

Yeah ....

 

Me too !

 

But I think it will be challenging.

The silk cloths are very delicate.

 

Wondering how best to handle them....?

Maybe do an interface?

 

 

A kind FPNer pointed me to this ....

 

 

 

 

Excellent demonstration.

 

Anyone tried this before ? or a variation of this ?

 

I was wondering how the silk withstood the swiping of the glue with the spatula ...

wont the fabric get snagged?

 

hmmm ....

Edited July 2, 2014 by TMLee

[TMLee]

I was just gifted a fresh set of Library Buckram colours ....

 

and this is a tribute to S. Salgado ....

from his GENESIS portfolio of pics ...

 

all to be gifted away ...

 

A very warm Charcoal Grey ...

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o704/tmleem4/JOURNALS/2014/BUCKRAM/6fh87msr_zpsdfc3c753.png

 

 

Black ...

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o704/tmleem4/JOURNALS/2014/BUCKRAM/5y6bj4ux_zps11a8ab10.png

 

and

Oxblood ...

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o704/tmleem4/JOURNALS/2014/BUCKRAM/fzzt1uco_zps0c35d693.png

 

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o704/tmleem4/JOURNALS/2014/BUCKRAM/013_zps5fb7d4cc.jpg

 

 

 

 

[RichKen]

I admit to following 2 book artist as my go to gurus - TMLee and Sage Reynolds. Sage has quite a few videos worth checking out if you aren't already familiar.
Both artists deserve a loud and hearty shout out of THANKS for sharing so generously.

 

I've used Sages interface technique for book cloth and it does work. Methyl cellulose takes some getting used to. I use a sheet of plexiglas to dry the lamination instead of book board. Using the spatula to spread the methyl cellulose takes practice as well as getting the methyl c. at the right mix.

This thread is long overdue for a table of contents or Index to help navigate to specific information i.e. how to construct the document envelop and attach elastic.

My coptic journals are at 38 at last count all thanks to TMLee and as you say they improve with practice.

[Cognaticrotty]

I was just gifted a fresh set of Library Buckram colours ....

 

and this is a tribute to S. Salgado ....

from his GENESIS portfolio of pics ...

 

all to be gifted away ...

 

A very warm Charcoal Grey ...

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o704/tmleem4/JOURNALS/2014/BUCKRAM/6fh87msr_zpsdfc3c753.png

 

 

Black ...

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o704/tmleem4/JOURNALS/2014/BUCKRAM/5y6bj4ux_zps11a8ab10.png

 

and

Oxblood ...

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o704/tmleem4/JOURNALS/2014/BUCKRAM/fzzt1uco_zps0c35d693.png

 

http://i1339.photobucket.com/albums/o704/tmleem4/JOURNALS/2014/BUCKRAM/013_zps5fb7d4cc.jpg

 

 

 

 

In love with this..

[TMLee]

I admit to following 2 book artist as my go to gurus - TMLee and Sage Reynolds. Sage has quite a few videos worth checking out if you aren't already familiar.

Both artists deserve a loud and hearty shout out of THANKS for sharing so generously.

 

I've used Sages interface technique for book cloth and it does work. Methyl cellulose takes some getting used to. I use a sheet of plexiglas to dry the lamination instead of book board. Using the spatula to spread the methyl cellulose takes practice as well as getting the methyl c. at the right mix.

 

This thread is long overdue for a table of contents or Index to help navigate to specific information i.e. how to construct the document envelop and attach elastic.

 

My coptic journals are at 38 at last count all thanks to TMLee and as you say they improve with practice.

 

 

 

Thanks RichKen for your kind words.

 

Sage Reynolds is a professional bookbinder - I am no where near that

Just viewed his clip on his workshop.

I find that interesting.

Gives me a glimpse and clues to how he works.

 

I am so embarrassed, my workbench is like less than one quarter of his ordinary large workbenches.

My stuff are stashed throughout the house for lack of dedicated space.

Only essential tools are on the workbench and within reach.

 

Still I was happy to see similar looking tools and implements

Kinda makes me relieved I am employing correct techniques.

 

I am game to try his technique of making bookcloth,

I actually managed to purchase a spatula/applicator , a larger brayer , but no luck on getting Methyl Cellulose at all.

 

 

 

There's something I dont understand and want to ask ,

when you put that large dollop of glue on the silk (or cloth for that matter) to begin spreading it all round the fabric, doesnt the glue eventually seep thru to the 'right' side of the silk cloth, damaging it ?

 

I am thinking of an attempt as close to the video clip as possible , but since I cant afford to ruin any silk cloth, I would probably start on a small piece , maybe B5 in size , or at the most, A3 in size.

This is because I dont have M Cellulose to slow down the glue-drying time.

 

My worry is whether the pVA glue will seep thru to the other side of the fabric.

 

I am walking thru the technique mentally, and at the moment, it seems very 'hairy'.

 

Any thoughts , advice ?

 

And yeah ...

a contents page would be useful.

 

Any kind volunteers ?

 

I have thought about producing a book manually , documenting all the various stages of making one of my typical journals.

Then turning it into a book.

all handstitched.

A mastercopy of sorts.

 

But .....

as in many endeavors ,

"the spirit is willing but the flesh is weak ... "

[TMLee]

In love with this..

 

 

Thanks ....

 

stunning pics by Salgado ...

 

I remember reading sometime somewhere , he used a Leica R6 in some of his projects.

[pen2paper]

 

 

A kind FPNer pointed me to this ....

 

 

 

 

Excellent demonstration.

 

Anyone tried this before ? or a variation of this ?

 

I was wondering how the silk withstood the swiping of the glue with the spatula ...

wont the fabric get snagged?

 

hmmm ....

gorgeous silk!

The spatula or spreading device would have to be perfectly smooth.

From the video's I just viewed, a thin, even spread to fill the back of the fabric, but not unevenly soak through is the issue.

I see an alternate method to the video you showed which includes PVA, which if it's the Polyvinyl I think they refer to, would not be my choice for longevity, though the claim is acid free/archival. Total lack of knowledge in bookbinding so ignore Anything I say ; )

This is a university bookbinding blog which suggests their procedure, and with links, though if it were me, I'd follow the Mr. Sage procedure, testing 1st.

http://ola-ssd.blogspot.com/2012/03/fix-it-friday-using-methyl-cellulose-in.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_acetate