... homemade journal ...

[TMLee]

..... "Rata" Journal #17.... continued ....

 

 

The wonders of PVA glue, it dries clear even when used on clear plastic sheet which I decided to add to protect the graphic

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/journal%2017/2007_11140037.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/journal%2017/2007_11140039.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/journal%2017/2007_11140040.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/journal%2017/2007_11140042.jpg

 

The reverse side

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/journal%2017/2007_11140044.jpg

 

The base cards being glued onto the leather and the corners carefully mitred and cut at 45deg. Filler boards were added

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/journal%2017/2007_11140045.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/journal%2017/2007_11140046.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/journal%2017/2007_11140048.jpg

 

And then carefully folded in

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/journal%2017/2007_11140049.jpg

 

The finished cover awaiting its bookblock

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/journal%2017/2007_11140050.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/journal%2017/2007_11140052.jpg

 

The flyleaves added. Looks much like a tablecloth to go with the theme

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/journal%2017/2007_11140066.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/journal%2017/2007_11140070.jpg

 

The finished journal with a Sailor PG Silver trim and a Sailor 1911 Large Summer Yellow for scale

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/journal%2017/2007_11140069.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/journal%2017/2007_11140059.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/journal%2017/2007_11140060.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/journal%2017/2007_11140061.jpg

 

The rear

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/journal%2017/2007_11140073.jpg

 

The colophon

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/journal%2017/2007_11140072.jpg

 

5 Signatures, 5 Folios per signature, 100 pages total.

100gsm Hammer embossed paper by ZETA in Natural White.

Coptic stitch with yellow 100% linen thread by Guttermann. Matching pocket.

Cover in cognac calf leather on 1mm card 2 ply

This journal is tall in proportions. 3.5" wide by 8 and 3/8" tall. I figured it might be useful in taking down a list for a recipe.

 

"Rata" Journal #17

 

 

 

 

Edited November 14, 2007 by TMLee

[TMLee]

I call this the "Grappa" Journal #18.

 

Finally found a use for the "Montegrappa" ribbon which I have been keeping for a long time.

 

This time I decided to make a journal like a tribute to "Montegrappa" - well sort of. I also used a old catalog and some of its pages to decorate the flyleaves.

 

Another attempt at a full leather journal. This time I decided to make one in exact Moleskine size, ie 3.5" x 5.5"

 

The leather cover and the Grappa ribbon

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Journal%2018%20Grappa/2007_11180001.jpg

 

I planned to make 4 lines of ribbons on the cover and here is one weaved into the leather sheet

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Journal%2018%20Grappa/2007_11180003.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Journal%2018%20Grappa/2007_11180004.jpg

 

The bookblock was attached and additional yellow linen thread sewed the leather at the spine

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Journal%2018%20Grappa/2007_11180005.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Journal%2018%20Grappa/2007_11180009.jpg

 

With a 1930 Extra Green Marbled for scale

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Journal%2018%20Grappa/2007_11180015.jpg

 

Cannibalised the catalog and took some pages out of it to be used as flyleaves.

 

Inside Front flyleaf

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Journal%2018%20Grappa/2007_11180018.jpg

 

Inside Rear flyleaf

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Journal%2018%20Grappa/2007_11180021.jpg

 

I decided to cut out the spine leather and expose the glued spine to allow the journal to open easier and stay opened.

The yellow threads were left there as accents

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Journal%2018%20Grappa/2007_11180024.jpg

 

Along the way I also changed my mind about the 4 or 5 ribbons and stuck to just one. This explains why its slanted. The others are also canted to form a composition

 

With the 1930 Extra for scale

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Journal%2018%20Grappa/2007_11180026.jpg

 

The Colophon

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Journal%2018%20Grappa/2007_11180067.jpg

 

Test page with M620 <B> Stub

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Journal%2018%20Grappa/2007_11180101.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/Journal%2018%20Grappa/2007_11180102.jpg

 

 

Paper = 120gsm laid paper Vanilla White by NATURALIS.

7 Signatures. 4 Folios per Signature. 112 pages total.

3.5" x 5.5" tall.

Coptic stitch using white linen thread by Guttermann.

1mm thick brown leather.

Yellow 100% linen thread accent by Guttermann.

 

"Grappa" Journal #18

Edited November 18, 2007 by TMLee

[graceaj]

Wow. I stumbled on this today and you've inspired me. I want to start making my own journals! Where do you get your materials; craft stores?

[TMLee]

Wow. I stumbled on this today and you've inspired me. I want to start making my own journals! Where do you get your materials; craft stores?

 

Most of the stuff you can buy from Art Friend at Bras Basah and Takashimaya. (binders board / bonefolder/ needles /thread / PVA glue)

 

Paper from "Fancy Paper" diagonally across B Basah Complex

 

Nice flyleaves from the scrapbooking hobbycraft store in Coronation Plaza.

 

There you go ... !

 

Have fun....

 

 

[kanzky]

Wow. I stumbled on this today and you've inspired me. I want to start making my own journals! Where do you get your materials; craft stores?

 

Most of the stuff you can buy from Art Friend at Bras Basah and Takashimaya. (binders board / bonefolder/ needles /thread / PVA glue)

 

Paper from "Fancy Paper" diagonally across B Basah Complex

 

Nice flyleaves from the scrapbooking hobbycraft store in Coronation Plaza.

 

There you go ... !

 

Have fun....

 

Hey' I didn't know you guys are from Singapore, WELL DONE!

 

[GBM]

The next time you get a chance to stop by Tandy/Leather Factory... check out the ' mission grain pig' ( I prefer the brown)... I called them yesterday and got the stock number but can't find it right now. I have used this to cover hardback books and to make hardback books out of softback books for gifts.... I use Barqe cement and start on the inside of the front or back and wrap it completely around it ( remember to close the book as you round the back side or you won't be able to close it ...LOL ) .

It is slick, strong, expensive looking, cheap...remember those leather bound ' Great Books of the Western World' ? That is what it reminds me of..... it is so thin and strong that I use it for the bottom of wooden jewelry boxes... where I only have to cut two opposite sides.... then I can press it into the corner so tight that I can trim it for length with an exacto knife..... since Barge is a contact cement and I only have two hands that is a much easier operation than to try to cut all four sides to perfect measurements... and install when you only get one shot at good contact cement placement..

I also leave the books wide and trim to size after gluing . I lace the edges with goat or calf lace in what is called a double cordovan stitch... what you usually see around the edges of billfolds... I usually give them away...but if I find one of them I will post a picture...

 

Full disclosure.... my recently retired uncle was Cofounder and CEO of The Leather Factory. My father did carving patterns and books for Tandy and The Leather Factory....

later, Greg

[TMLee]

The next time you get a chance to stop by Tandy/Leather Factory... check out the ' mission grain pig' ( I prefer the brown)... I called them yesterday and got the stock number but can't find it right now. I have used this to cover hardback books and to make hardback books out of softback books for gifts.... I use Barqe cement and start on the inside of the front or back and wrap it completely around it ( remember to close the book as you round the back side or you won't be able to close it ...LOL ) .

It is slick, strong, expensive looking, cheap...remember those leather bound ' Great Books of the Western World' ? That is what it reminds me of..... it is so thin and strong that I use it for the bottom of wooden jewelry boxes... where I only have to cut two opposite sides.... then I can press it into the corner so tight that I can trim it for length with an exacto knife..... since Barge is a contact cement and I only have two hands that is a much easier operation than to try to cut all four sides to perfect measurements... and install when you only get one shot at good contact cement placement..

I also leave the books wide and trim to size after gluing . I lace the edges with goat or calf lace in what is called a double cordovan stitch... what you usually see around the edges of billfolds... I usually give them away...but if I find one of them I will post a picture...

 

Full disclosure.... my recently retired uncle was Cofounder and CEO of The Leather Factory. My father did carving patterns and books for Tandy and The Leather Factory....

later, Greg

 

 

Hi Greg,

Nice to have you here on FPN.

I live halfway round the globe so I guess its an impossibility to check out the 'mission grain pig'. Will look it up on thier webpage though. Is it leather?

 

Likewise with 'Barge' cement. Is it rubber cement? Those that gluesniffers get a high from?

 

Also, I think if you can post some pics, it would help greatly in my understanding.

 

[TMLee]

I am so happy...

 

A friend gave me a length of bookbands as a Christmas present knowing that Ii was unsuccessful at buying them ...

[GBM]

Yes Sir, it is leather ( pig with a pattern embossed on it )... but even thin it has great stiffness laterally.... but can still be bent into tight corners... if you will PM me with your address I will cut a piece and send it to you... Pig is often used inside shoes, inside gun holsters ( by those in the know ) because it has great wear properties and can conform to the shape needed at the same time.

 

Barge is Contact Cement ( place it where you want it the FIRST TIME...LOL)... I don't use rubber cement on anything dealing with leather... rubber cement was developed for people needing to be able to place pieces of paper on paper and move them easily without messing up the surface ( think newspaper editors)... any time I want leather put together I want it to stay that way.... I never ever ( 50 years family experience on this ) try to put holes into leather for either sewing or lacing where I do not glue it up with Barge or some other good contact cement first.... I don't know how people do it without the cement to hold the leather lined up without it...after some of the drug laws went into effect large amounts ...qt, etc.. required a ' manufacturers license ' to buy... which meant a tax number... but four ounce tubes ( while relatively expensive compared to bulk ) should be available....

 

Another alternative , especially on large surfaces ( as compared to just the rim around a project needed stability for hole punching ), is regular 3M contact cement in the spray can ( about $19 from most automotive stores)... this is typically used by car people to keep all sorts of things in place...like carpet.... there are at least two varieties... 8088 and 8089 or 90 .. one is higher heat resistance and holding strength for things like engine compartment hood insulation... but the lighter duty would suffice for anything I have seen proposed on this forum... it is relatively expensive ( you may notice I am frugal ) except that it has an amazing ' delivery ' system... the spray nozzle can be set from light to heavy... and if you keep it shaken it has a fine shelf life... Barge in the quart can ( which would take most people years to use up ) is prone to drying once you get down lower in the level...but solvent specifically made to revitalize it is made by Barge also.... Any good contact cement is fine for what we are discussing... I just grew up using it .... I know that people who put soles on shoes use less expensive but just as good for the purpose contact cements... ( one of them may have just a number designation ).

DO read and follow the safety instructions on these things... don't want any accidents... I always apply this stuff outdoors just to be on the safe side.

Remember that contact cements work on the principle that when they come into contact WITH THEMSELVES they hold tight... so several light coats on a porous surface ...dry between coats ( typically 10 minutes ) and then before putting the two parts together you also give it that drying time . Typically on contact cement if you put your finger on the surface it will not even feel sticky.... it is ' waiting' to meet other Contact Cement by that time...

I will post some pictures as soon as I can...

Greg

 

Edit : The stock number at Tandy/Leather Factory should be 9126-02 for the brown.... and about $2.29 per square foot...

Edited December 31, 2007 by GBM

[Romeo Dog]

[Nice work. You have my regards.

[TMLee]

Hi Greg ,

 

 

Yes Sir, it is leather ( pig with a pattern embossed on it )... but even thin it has great stiffness laterally.... but can still be bent into tight corners... if you will PM me with your address I will cut a piece and send it to you... Pig is often used inside shoes, inside gun holsters ( by those in the know ) because it has great wear properties and can conform to the shape needed at the same time.

 

OK I understand now. Yes, thin leather thats commonly used for lining. I will PM you my address , though S&H may cost , since I am halfway round the globe.

 

 

 

 

Barge is Contact Cement ( place it where you want it the FIRST TIME...LOL)...

 

OK , got it .

 

 

 

Edit : The stock number at Tandy/Leather Factory should be 9126-02 for the brown.... and about $2.29 per square foot...

 

Will take a looksee.....

 

rgds

 

 

 

 

[TMLee]

[Nice work. You have my regards.

 

Thanks ....

 

Rgds

 

 

 

[GBM]

Somewhere someone asked about some things which I will attempt to answer without using my slow dial up to quote the question...

 

About ' fuzziness' on the edge of cut leather... if you have it you might use some of the same wax you use for making multiple threads with linen ... to make it lay down.... but to avoid it you might try what those quilting ladies use for cutting cloth .... a hard plastic cutting board and a round knife ( rolling blade ) .... that should eliminate those fuzzies..

 

If your nylon thread does not have enough friction to stay until you get the next loop pulled up try waxing it just as you would handmade linen threads...

 

For the record... properly done hand stitching has the potential for being much stronger and longer lasting than any machine stitching... and when I get a chance to do a demo and post the pictures will show that it can also be made to LOOK like it was machine stitched.... if you want to check it out before I can get that done research what is called an ' overstitch wheel' ... this is a hand held little roller , available typically in 5,6,7 points per inch of marking, with a scalloped wheel... which is FIRST used to mark out your placement of holes... then after you have stitched it is RUN OVER THE STITCHES... a nice one which is scalloped and wide enough will make it so no one can tell that you hand stitched it... but you can still have incorporated a stitch pattern like a double running ( one thread , two needles ) which allows that if certain threads are broken or cut you still have a full intact thread holding your project together...

 

And speaking of eyewash .... if you use an overstitch wheel on veg tanned leather ( The type made for carving )... you can JUST do that..and make it LOOK like you stitched the item....LOL... most people will never notice it because it looks exactly like you stitched it... and SO MUCH FASTER !!!

 

However, I must mention that most stitching ( if you follow my suggestions about gluing first ) will be completely eyewash or artistic expression.... because that contact cement , properly designed and executed, will be much stronger than any line of thread put through holes which in and of themselves decrease the strength of the leather....

later, Greg

[TMLee]

Wow Greg ,

This is getting a bit hard for me to understand. Its in the realm of leathercrafting of which I have zero experience and know-how.

Still , I shall try to learn.

Tks much.

 

There's always something new to learn everyday.

 

The poundage for leather - say 1.5 to 2oz , how thick(thin) are they? 0.3 to 0,5mm ?

 

Rgds

TMLee

 

 

 

 

 

Somewhere someone asked about some things which I will attempt to answer without using my slow dial up to quote the question...

 

About ' fuzziness' on the edge of cut leather... if you have it you might use some of the same wax you use for making multiple threads with linen ... to make it lay down.... but to avoid it you might try what those quilting ladies use for cutting cloth .... a hard plastic cutting board and a round knife ( rolling blade ) .... that should eliminate those fuzzies..

 

If your nylon thread does not have enough friction to stay until you get the next loop pulled up try waxing it just as you would handmade linen threads...

 

For the record... properly done hand stitching has the potential for being much stronger and longer lasting than any machine stitching... and when I get a chance to do a demo and post the pictures will show that it can also be made to LOOK like it was machine stitched.... if you want to check it out before I can get that done research what is called an ' overstitch wheel' ... this is a hand held little roller , available typically in 5,6,7 points per inch of marking, with a scalloped wheel... which is FIRST used to mark out your placement of holes... then after you have stitched it is RUN OVER THE STITCHES... a nice one which is scalloped and wide enough will make it so no one can tell that you hand stitched it... but you can still have incorporated a stitch pattern like a double running ( one thread , two needles ) which allows that if certain threads are broken or cut you still have a full intact thread holding your project together...

 

And speaking of eyewash .... if you use an overstitch wheel on veg tanned leather ( The type made for carving )... you can JUST do that..and make it LOOK like you stitched the item....LOL... most people will never notice it because it looks exactly like you stitched it... and SO MUCH FASTER !!!

 

However, I must mention that most stitching ( if you follow my suggestions about gluing first ) will be completely eyewash or artistic expression.... because that contact cement , properly designed and executed, will be much stronger than any line of thread put through holes which in and of themselves decrease the strength of the leather....

later, Greg

 

[GBM]

 

"This is getting a bit hard for me to understand. Its in the realm of leathercrafting of which I have zero experience and know-how."

 

Just ask as many questions as you want... I have plenty of electrons left in this computer ...LOL

I went back to the start of this thread and checked.... YOU decided to use leather to cover your journals... and wandered into an area I may can help with the logistics of....

 

"The poundage for leather - say 1.5 to 2oz , how thick(thin) are they? 0.3 to 0,5mm ?"

 

I really have no way to communicate that.... first off.... they are not standardised.. partly because they vary according to what processes/tanning techniques have been applied to the leather.... or such things as them being run through a mill to impress some design on them... like this pig has had done... but the leather I am talking about is thin, strong and light compared to what you are using.

 

later, Greg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[TMLee]

Tks Greg,

what does an overstitch wheel look like?

What kind of needles do you use for handstitching?

rgds

TMLee

 

 

"This is getting a bit hard for me to understand. Its in the realm of leathercrafting of which I have zero experience and know-how."

 

Just ask as many questions as you want... I have plenty of electrons left in this computer ...LOL

I went back to the start of this thread and checked.... YOU decided to use leather to cover your journals... and wandered into an area I may can help with the logistics of....

 

"The poundage for leather - say 1.5 to 2oz , how thick(thin) are they? 0.3 to 0,5mm ?"

 

I really have no way to communicate that.... first off.... they are not standardised.. partly because they vary according to what processes/tanning techniques have been applied to the leather.... or such things as them being run through a mill to impress some design on them... like this pig has had done... but the leather I am talking about is thin, strong and light compared to what you are using.

 

later, Greg

 

[GBM]

"what does an overstitch wheel look like?

What kind of needles do you use for handstitching?" TMLee

 

Usually you would use a ' harness needle' ...these are available with eye's large enough to put multi strand waxed linen in them easily ...and large enough to hold with fingers.... Most places like Tandy have combo packages of needles at a good price..which will also include a nice curved carpet needle....

 

The overstitch wheel usually has a wooden handle and a curved shank... and consists of a wheel ( sometimes interchangeable wheels come in a kit ...typically 6,7,8 holes per inch).... I just checked google and it is easy to find a picture of new ones... I am trying to find my old one which is wider and scalloped to show what one should try to find for best looking results...

 

Sometimes the ' counter people' in leather stores don't know the difference between a stitching marker and an overstitch wheel... you want the widest wheel you can find to give the best effect.... a marker can not be used that way because they are too thin....

 

On my recommendation for the pig the other day... I just called the local Tandy and asked them about the stock number for the brown mission grain pig... when I drove into Austin I found that that color is almost black...not at all what I was recommending..

I was able to find a skin in my leather shop left over from one of those projects I mentioned ( about 7 years ago ).... I have cleaned and reconditioned it and will take pictures of it and probably make something with it to show the procedure....

later, Greg

 

 

 

[TMLee]

"what does an overstitch wheel look like?

What kind of needles do you use for handstitching?" TMLee

 

Usually you would use a ' harness needle' ...these are available with eye's large enough to put multi strand waxed linen in them easily ...and large enough to hold with fingers.... Most places like Tandy have combo packages of needles at a good price..which will also include a nice curved carpet needle....

 

The overstitch wheel usually has a wooden handle and a curved shank... and consists of a wheel ( sometimes interchangeable wheels come in a kit ...typically 6,7,8 holes per inch).... I just checked google and it is easy to find a picture of new ones... I am trying to find my old one which is wider and scalloped to show what one should try to find for best looking results...

 

Sometimes the ' counter people' in leather stores don't know the difference between a stitching marker and an overstitch wheel... you want the widest wheel you can find to give the best effect.... a marker can not be used that way because they are too thin....

 

On my recommendation for the pig the other day... I just called the local Tandy and asked them about the stock number for the brown mission grain pig... when I drove into Austin I found that that color is almost black...not at all what I was recommending..

I was able to find a skin in my leather shop left over from one of those projects I mentioned ( about 7 years ago ).... I have cleaned and reconditioned it and will take pictures of it and probably make something with it to show the procedure....

later, Greg

 

Hi Greg,

Apologies for no reply from me for such a long time. This is the first time I am backk on the FPN after many months.

I recently bought a razor blade scraper, thinking of trying to use it to pare down leather.

I haven't tried it yet.

Any pointers?

How do you leatherworkers pare down leather?

Rgds

TMLee

Edited March 1, 2008 by TMLee

[Artbeast]

Hi Greg,

Apologies for no reply from me for such a long time. This is the first time I am backk on the FPN after many months.

I recently bought a razor blade scraper, thinking of trying to use it to pare down leather.

I haven't tried it yet.

Any pointers?

How do you leatherworkers pare down leather?

Rgds

TMLee

There are special knives for hand skiving/paring, hand machines where you pull the leather thru a bench mounted machine with an interchangable blade and then there are the skiving machines with a motor. The most known brand is the Fortuna. We have a very old Fortuna and a newer, more precision machine made by Randall. The depth/width (up to 2 inches), angle and thickness of the skive are all adjustable down to thinner than paper thichness. Leather is fed into a spinning bell knife by means of stone. Skives have these feed stones on the bottom or top and bottom depending on the thickness of leather you are wanting to skive.

 

Here is a pic of one of the skivers we use. The 2 black knobs on the front... the one on the left moves the grinding stone into the blade to sharpen it, the one on the right moves knife left to right and adjustments on the left side of the machine will set the angle of the skive. I can post some closeups of the actual process if you would like.

 

 

[TMLee]

Hi Greg,

Apologies for no reply from me for such a long time. This is the first time I am backk on the FPN after many months.

I recently bought a razor blade scraper, thinking of trying to use it to pare down leather.

I haven't tried it yet.

Any pointers?

How do you leatherworkers pare down leather?

Rgds

TMLee

There are special knives for hand skiving/paring, hand machines where you pull the leather thru a bench mounted machine with an interchangable blade and then there are the skiving machines with a motor. The most known brand is the Fortuna. We have a very old Fortuna and a newer, more precision machine made by Randall. The depth/width (up to 2 inches), angle and thickness of the skive are all adjustable down to thinner than paper thichness. Leather is fed into a spinning bell knife by means of stone. Skives have these feed stones on the bottom or top and bottom depending on the thickness of leather you are wanting to skive.

 

Here is a pic of one of the skivers we use. The 2 black knobs on the front... the one on the left moves the grinding stone into the blade to sharpen it, the one on the right moves knife left to right and adjustments on the left side of the machine will set the angle of the skive. I can post some closeups of the actual process if you would like.

 

 

Tks Arthur for the info.

A machine parer is out of the question for me.

The leather workers here charge a bomb for paring down.

So I am exploring doing it the difficult way.

I have yet to find a knife parer here.

Would appreciate any pointers.

Rgds

TMLee