... homemade journal ...

[TMLee]

This is Journal #156 "Red Tulips" (A5 size) crafted on commission.

 

Pictured with one of my favourite FPs - the OMAS MoMA in silver trim.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20156%20Red%20Tulips/b9b8f572.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20156%20Red%20Tulips/3db60aa8.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20156%20Red%20Tulips/aa2780ae.jpg

 

Keeping the theme to white and red only ...

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20156%20Red%20Tulips/55908233.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20156%20Red%20Tulips/6b44b1ed.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20156%20Red%20Tulips/23814b6c.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20156%20Red%20Tulips/5182c748.jpg

 

The elastic bands were also kept white

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20156%20Red%20Tulips/5840f726.jpg

 

These are good quality bands by CLOVER of Japan

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20156%20Red%20Tulips/1a801eb1.jpg

 

Full spread

I think it looks stunning ....

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20156%20Red%20Tulips/a517a81e.jpg

 

The order requested for a certain shade of green to be incorporated..

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20156%20Red%20Tulips/c2de6921.jpg

 

I included a namecard slot now for my large journals...

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20156%20Red%20Tulips/20ceb2b2.jpg

 

The inktestpage written with the

STIPULA Etruria Alter Ego <0.9> Stub

filled with Pelikan Brilliant brown ink.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20156%20Red%20Tulips/cb55fb14.jpg

 

The Colophon page written with :

PILOT Custom 742 <FA> Falcon nib

filled with SAILOR Red Brown ink.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20156%20Red%20Tulips/176fa958.jpg

 

 

Writing paper is NATURALIS Vanilla White , 135gsm, Smooth

7 Signatures, 5 Folios each

112 writing pages total.

 

This is a nice one...

 

iPhone pictures not sharp enough ...

[dcpritch]

THAT is absolutely gorgeous work! You should be quite proud of the product and the new owner should be ecstatic with the result.

[Terea]

Beautiful journal cover!

 

I have a question regarding your engraving coloring of the pens. What type of crayon are you using? I have un-successfully searched for a crayon that isn't waxy. I tried the children's crayons but it just smeared over the imprint and really didn't go into the grooves. If you don't mind, please be specific so I can search for the same item. I have frustrated myself to no end in trying to find a crayon that will give me the results you have shown.

 

Thanks!

[Ally]

It IS gorgeous and i AM thrilled with the result! Can't wait to get it!

[TMLee]

THAT is absolutely gorgeous work! You should be quite proud of the product and the new owner should be ecstatic with the result.

 

Thanks 'dcpritch'

 

It IS gorgeous and i AM thrilled with the result! Can't wait to get it!

 

Glad you like it

[TMLee]

Beautiful journal cover!

 

I have a question regarding your engraving coloring of the pens. What type of crayon are you using? I have un-successfully searched for a crayon that isn't waxy. I tried the children's crayons but it just smeared over the imprint and really didn't go into the grooves. If you don't mind, please be specific so I can search for the same item. I have frustrated myself to no end in trying to find a crayon that will give me the results you have shown.

 

Thanks!

 

I used kids crayons - LYRA

I am not sure if it's the correct type to use.

Others more knowledgable , pls comment.

 

 

 

Rgds

Edited April 28, 2012 by TMLee

[TMLee]

This is Journal #139B "Laughing Leaves" A6 size

 

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2011%20JOURNALS/Journal%20139%20Laughing%20Leaves/Journal%20139B%20Laughing%20Leaves/66b8f616.jpg

 

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2011%20JOURNALS/Journal%20139%20Laughing%20Leaves/Journal%20139B%20Laughing%20Leaves/566782fe.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2011%20JOURNALS/Journal%20139%20Laughing%20Leaves/Journal%20139B%20Laughing%20Leaves/6e9d9c28.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2011%20JOURNALS/Journal%20139%20Laughing%20Leaves/Journal%20139B%20Laughing%20Leaves/84cef18f.jpg

 

 

This variant, I chose contrasting stitches - yellow

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2011%20JOURNALS/Journal%20139%20Laughing%20Leaves/Journal%20139B%20Laughing%20Leaves/45941a75.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2011%20JOURNALS/Journal%20139%20Laughing%20Leaves/Journal%20139B%20Laughing%20Leaves/7b61a815.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2011%20JOURNALS/Journal%20139%20Laughing%20Leaves/Journal%20139B%20Laughing%20Leaves/df855cdc.jpg

 

Fullspread

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2011%20JOURNALS/Journal%20139%20Laughing%20Leaves/Journal%20139B%20Laughing%20Leaves/19e73c35.jpg

 

The black flyleaves

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2011%20JOURNALS/Journal%20139%20Laughing%20Leaves/Journal%20139B%20Laughing%20Leaves/db25daa5.jpg

 

The inktestpage

written with a STIPULA Etruria Alter Ego <0.9> Stub

Pelikan Brilliant Brown ink.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2011%20JOURNALS/Journal%20139%20Laughing%20Leaves/Journal%20139B%20Laughing%20Leaves/c6915e5f.jpg

 

The Colophon

written with a PILOT Custom 742 <FA>

with SAILOR Red Brown ink

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2011%20JOURNALS/Journal%20139%20Laughing%20Leaves/Journal%20139B%20Laughing%20Leaves/ebba9623.jpg

 

Paper is

NATURALIS Vanilla White , 135gsm, Smooth, Plain (unlined)

7 Signatures , 4 Folios each, 112 writing pages total.

 

Up for sale too

 

 

 

Edited April 28, 2012 by TMLee

[Terea]

Beautiful journal cover!

 

I have a question regarding your engraving coloring of the pens. What type of crayon are you using? I have un-successfully searched for a crayon that isn't waxy. I tried the children's crayons but it just smeared over the imprint and really didn't go into the grooves. If you don't mind, please be specific so I can search for the same item. I have frustrated myself to no end in trying to find a crayon that will give me the results you have shown.

 

Thanks!

 

I used kids crayons - LYRA

I am not sure if it's the correct type to use.

Others more knowledgable , pls comment.

 

 

 

Rgds

 

Thank you. I tried the brand Crayola crayons but when I rubbed it over the imprint, it just smeared and sort of crumbled around it. It never darkened the imprint. Do you have a technique that I obviously don't know about like melting the crayon over the imprint? I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Please help!

[TMLee]

Beautiful journal cover!

 

I have a question regarding your engraving coloring of the pens. What type of crayon are you using? I have un-successfully searched for a crayon that isn't waxy. I tried the children's crayons but it just smeared over the imprint and really didn't go into the grooves. If you don't mind, please be specific so I can search for the same item. I have frustrated myself to no end in trying to find a crayon that will give me the results you have shown.

 

Thanks!

 

I used kids crayons - LYRA

I am not sure if it's the correct type to use.

Others more knowledgable , pls comment.

 

 

 

Rgds

 

Thank you. I tried the brand Crayola crayons but when I rubbed it over the imprint, it just smeared and sort of crumbled around it. It never darkened the imprint. Do you have a technique that I obviously don't know about like melting the crayon over the imprint? I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Please help!

 

 

 

I just ran the crayon over the engraving.

Sometimes needing to press harder to get the crayon to dig into the grooves.

After that wiping away the unwanted smears outside the engraving.

No melting of crayons whatsoever.

I am not sure why you are experiencing the problems.

Maybe I am just lucky.

Patience.

you might want to try asking for help in the appropriate sub forums (maybe repair forum? ) , you have a better chance getting expert answers there.

[Terea]

Beautiful journal cover!

 

I have a question regarding your engraving coloring of the pens. What type of crayon are you using? I have un-successfully searched for a crayon that isn't waxy. I tried the children's crayons but it just smeared over the imprint and really didn't go into the grooves. If you don't mind, please be specific so I can search for the same item. I have frustrated myself to no end in trying to find a crayon that will give me the results you have shown.

 

Thanks!

 

I used kids crayons - LYRA

I am not sure if it's the correct type to use.

Others more knowledgable , pls comment.

 

 

 

Rgds

 

Thank you. I tried the brand Crayola crayons but when I rubbed it over the imprint, it just smeared and sort of crumbled around it. It never darkened the imprint. Do you have a technique that I obviously don't know about like melting the crayon over the imprint? I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Please help!

 

 

 

I just ran the crayon over the engraving.

Sometimes needing to press harder to get the crayon to dig into the grooves.

After that wiping away the unwanted smears outside the engraving.

No melting of crayons whatsoever.

I am not sure why you are experiencing the problems.

Maybe I am just lucky.

Patience.

you might want to try asking for help in the appropriate sub forums (maybe repair forum? ) , you have a better chance getting expert answers there.

Ok. Thank you!

[TMLee]

This is a wedding guestbook.

Being crafted on commission.

My second wedding guestbook on commission.

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20155%20Wedding%20Guestbook/df79016d.jpg

 

Closeups

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20155%20Wedding%20Guestbook/f4a5f70a.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20155%20Wedding%20Guestbook/e1fec6dc.jpg

 

This one is landscape in format.

A5 size.

 

 

I dreamt about incorporating an emboss of some kind in this wedding guestbook, just so it can be one of a kind.

 

These were some sample typefaces for the initials

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20155%20Wedding%20Guestbook/e3d16474.jpg

 

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20155%20Wedding%20Guestbook/c57cf196.jpg

 

I played around with the composition quite abit before settling on this typeface.

The type face had to be one that was able to be cut out by hand.

Not too fine , ie flourishes too difficult to cut out.

I also hunted for a typeface with a nice ampersand.

In the end, I had to combine two different kinds of fonts.

and two different sizes to make the composition look 'right'.

I felt it had to be stylised a bit becos the one above didnt look good.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20155%20Wedding%20Guestbook/1ba3f7d7.jpg

 

 

Testing it out on the inside flyleaf

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20155%20Wedding%20Guestbook/8f224179.jpg

 

Printed it on a thicker magazine paper.

From experience, the thickness of the emboss underlay needs to be thought thru.

Its thickness depends on the following few factors :

- The detail of the emboss graphic;

- the thickness of the material covering the emboss.

 

If the graphic is too finely detailed, the cover paper cannot reach into narrow spaces and hug a thick emboss. The paper has its limits in hugging whatever profile. So to help this situation, the emboss paper should be not too thick.

 

Here the cutting commences...

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20155%20Wedding%20Guestbook/75cfa8eb.jpg

 

Cutting the ampersand was difficult becos the strokes were fine and narrow...

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20155%20Wedding%20Guestbook/7f07a111.jpg

 

After cutting out, the 'blank' was positioned carefully onto position

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20155%20Wedding%20Guestbook/ed087db4.jpg

 

The fonts ere then glued onto position.

This is the emboss in position.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20155%20Wedding%20Guestbook/849239a8.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20155%20Wedding%20Guestbook/6e77c392.jpg

 

Next will come the gluing of the cover material.

(the moment of truth awaits !!!)

If it doesn't work out, a lot of whats already done will be ruined.

Especially the covers.

I find this stage pretty high risk whenever I do embossing.

A couple of things need to be juggled with at the same time.

putting glue into the 'narrow crevices',

wet but not too wet otherwise the paper will warp and deform;

enough 'wet time' to work on the emboss area before the other areas dry out.

(not possible to re-glue becos this is paper and pVa is strong when dried and you cannot peel off paper to re-glue without incurring damage.)

[TMLee]

Here goes .....

 

Applying the glue ...

(a two stage process. The first half of the flyleaf is glued near the spine first.

Then the other remaining half.)

This is the second stage ..

The glue has to be wetter - to last the extra time needed to work around the emboss,

as well as to wet the paper enough for it to 'hug' the emboss well.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20155%20Wedding%20Guestbook/4ec914ef.jpg

 

Clamping with boards and foam protection in-between.

To press the paper hard against the emboss.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20155%20Wedding%20Guestbook/fed1b056.jpg

 

 

Phew ...

It turned out okay ..

Had to wait for daylight to catch the reflections to photograph.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20155%20Wedding%20Guestbook/DSCF7681.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2011/2012/2012%20Journals/Journal%20155%20Wedding%20Guestbook/DSCF7685.jpg

Edited May 2, 2012 by TMLee

[USMCMom]

Are you cutting (adding) water to your PVA? That's what I do, but I've not tried letter embossing, just experimenting with narrow cord. At the 2nd gluing step, are you working around your letters, then smoothing out the end paper over the book inside cover, and then clamping? I made a book press that does the pressing. It's primitive, but does the job.

 

Very nice work ... I'm sure the couple will really like what you've done.

[TMLee]

['USMCMom' timestamp=1335922419' post='2332116]

 

Are you cutting (adding) water to your PVA? That's what I do, but I've not tried letter embossing, just experimenting with narrow cord.

 

I see the instructions on the glue containers always recommending that you don't add water.

But I do, however, only when the glue has become too thick and hard to spread with a brush.

I add hot water in very small amounts , while stirring , till I get the consistency I want.

Something like emulsion paint for your home, but thicker, not that runny.

I think what they mean is that the glue is ready to use out of the bottle and not needing to be diluted before use.

Getting the viscosity or consistency of the glue can make a significant difference to your work. Becos its easy to spread, it saves you time.

Then , if its too wet, you decide whether to let it dry a bit before attaching the next surface.

If the glue is too thick, you need to brush more often and this sometimes brings further problems like bristles coming off the brush from persistent attempts, or worst still, the brushing action starts to damage the cover material, especially fabric - causing the edges to fray. All kinds of little problems start to get in your operation.

 

At the 2nd gluing step, are you working around your letters, then smoothing out the end paper over the book inside cover, and then clamping? I made a book press that does the pressing. It's primitive, but does the job.

 

I apply glue round the edges of the letters with a small fine stiff brush. ensuring the right amount of glue. Wet with glue but no excessive amounts especially at the edges.

(Too much glue there and it will fill up the corners, instead of a sharp shoulder.)

 

Then the flyleaf is smoothed over but not pressed hard yet.

I use a burnisher to press the edges round the letters. This is to make the cover paper 'hug' the emboss. Otherwise , you may not get a crisp emboss.

 

Again, it depends on the thickness of your coverpaper. Too thick and the paper cannot 'hug' the emboss tightly.

The red paper flyleaf above is 145gsm.

If too thin, you will have creases all over the place as it gives way to the dampness of the glue.

The paper has to be rigid enough to withstand some dampness without giving way too quickly.

You need to experiment to find out what works best for you.

 

The soft foam rubber is what i use to further press the flyleaf into the corners and edges of the emboss.

Again, if the emboss is too thick, the cover paper cannot reach the corners too.

For this one, I decided on a thinner magazine paper thickness.

Its thinner than the magazine covers.

I use magazine paper becos its coated.

This means that it resists moisture while glue is repeatedly brushed all over it. If its not coated, it may disintegrate from repeated brushing, and/or deform as the moisture seeps into the cut-outs.

 

 

 

Very nice work ... I'm sure the couple will really like what you've done.

Thanks and I certainly hope so too.

I find myself producing better results when I am given free reign to do what I think is best, which the nice couple has kindly allowed me to.

Edited May 2, 2012 by TMLee

[USMCMom]

['USMCMom' timestamp=1335922419' post='2332116]

 

Are you cutting (adding) water to your PVA? That's what I do, but I've not tried letter embossing, just experimenting with narrow cord.

 

I see the instructions on the glue containers always recommending that you don't add water.

But I do, however, only when the glue has become too thick and hard to spread with a brush.

I add hot water in very small amounts till I get the consistency I want.

Something like emulsion paint for you home, but thicker, not that runny.

I think what they mean is that the glue is ready to use out of the bottle and not needing to be diluted before use.

Getting the viscosity or consistency of the glue can make a significant difference to your work. Becos its easy to spread, it saves you time.

Then , if its too wet, you decide whether to let it dry a bit before attaching the next surface.

If the glue is too thick, you need to brush more often and this sometimes brings further problems like bristles coming off the brush from persistent attempts, or worst still, the brushing action starts to damage the cover material, especially fabric - causing the edges to fray. All kinds of little problems start to get in your operation.

 

At the 2nd gluing step, are you working around your letters, then smoothing out the end paper over the book inside cover, and then clamping? I made a book press that does the pressing. It's primitive, but does the job.

 

I apply glue round the edges of the letters with a small fine stiff brush. ensuring the right amount of glue. Wet with glue but no excessive amounts especially at the edges.

(Too much glue there and it will fill up the corners, instead of a sharp shoulder.)

 

Then the flyleaf is smoothed over but not pressed hard yet.

I use a burnisher to press the edges round the letters. This is to make the cover paper 'hug' the emboss. Otherwise , you may not get a crisp emboss.

 

Again, it depends on the thickness of your coverpaper. Too thick and the paper cannot 'hug' the emboss tightly.

The red paper flyleaf above is 145gsm.

If too thin, you will have creases all over the place as it gives way to the dampness of the glue.

The paper has to be rigid enough to withstand some dampness without giving way too quickly.

You need to experiment to find out what works best for you.

 

The soft foam rubber is what i use to further press the flyleaf into the corners and edges of the emboss.

Again, if the emboss is too thick, the cover paper cannot reach the corners too.

For this one, I decided on a thinner magazine paper thickness.

Its thinner than the magazine covers.

I use magazine paper becos its coated.

This means that it resists moisture while glue is repeatedly brushed all over it. If its not coated, it may disintegrate from repeated brushing, and/or deform as the moisture seeps into the cut-outs.

 

 

 

Very nice work ... I'm sure the couple will really like what you've done.

Thanks and I certainly hope so too.

I find myself producing better results when I am given free reign to do what I think is best, which the nice couple has kindly allowed me to.

 

I have PVA, but love to experiment, so I've tried wallpaper paste also and it works quite well ... so far, anyway. I've added just a little water to my PVA at times and it's worked just fine. Sometimes, as you said, the PVA can be a little bit too thick for the project at hand.

[nightwing]

Phew ...

It turned out okay ..

Had to wait for daylight to catch the reflections to photograph.

I think it turned out a lot better than okay! It's pretty impressive. I hope to have the patience to try embossing some day.

Your journals, as always, are amazingly detailed. I especially like the lime green flyleaves you used in one or two of your journals.

[TMLee]

['USMCMom' timestamp=1335922419' post='2332116]

 

Are you cutting (adding) water to your PVA? That's what I do, but I've not tried letter embossing, just experimenting with narrow cord.

 

I see the instructions on the glue containers always recommending that you don't add water.

But I do, however, only when the glue has become too thick and hard to spread with a brush.

I add hot water in very small amounts till I get the consistency I want.

Something like emulsion paint for you home, but thicker, not that runny.

I think what they mean is that the glue is ready to use out of the bottle and not needing to be diluted before use.

Getting the viscosity or consistency of the glue can make a significant difference to your work. Becos its easy to spread, it saves you time.

Then , if its too wet, you decide whether to let it dry a bit before attaching the next surface.

If the glue is too thick, you need to brush more often and this sometimes brings further problems like bristles coming off the brush from persistent attempts, or worst still, the brushing action starts to damage the cover material, especially fabric - causing the edges to fray. All kinds of little problems start to get in your operation.

 

At the 2nd gluing step, are you working around your letters, then smoothing out the end paper over the book inside cover, and then clamping? I made a book press that does the pressing. It's primitive, but does the job.

 

I apply glue round the edges of the letters with a small fine stiff brush. ensuring the right amount of glue. Wet with glue but no excessive amounts especially at the edges.

(Too much glue there and it will fill up the corners, instead of a sharp shoulder.)

 

Then the flyleaf is smoothed over but not pressed hard yet.

I use a burnisher to press the edges round the letters. This is to make the cover paper 'hug' the emboss. Otherwise , you may not get a crisp emboss.

 

Again, it depends on the thickness of your coverpaper. Too thick and the paper cannot 'hug' the emboss tightly.

The red paper flyleaf above is 145gsm.

If too thin, you will have creases all over the place as it gives way to the dampness of the glue.

The paper has to be rigid enough to withstand some dampness without giving way too quickly.

You need to experiment to find out what works best for you.

 

The soft foam rubber is what i use to further press the flyleaf into the corners and edges of the emboss.

Again, if the emboss is too thick, the cover paper cannot reach the corners too.

For this one, I decided on a thinner magazine paper thickness.

Its thinner than the magazine covers.

I use magazine paper becos its coated.

This means that it resists moisture while glue is repeatedly brushed all over it. If its not coated, it may disintegrate from repeated brushing, and/or deform as the moisture seeps into the cut-outs.

 

 

 

Very nice work ... I'm sure the couple will really like what you've done.

Thanks and I certainly hope so too.

I find myself producing better results when I am given free reign to do what I think is best, which the nice couple has kindly allowed me to.

 

I have PVA, but love to experiment, so I've tried wallpaper paste also and it works quite well ... so far, anyway. I've added just a little water to my PVA at times and it's worked just fine. Sometimes, as you said, the PVA can be a little bit too thick for the project at hand.

 

 

Actually, you could use wallpaper as covering for your journals.

Have you tried that yet?

You must have.

[TMLee]

Phew ...

It turned out okay ..

Had to wait for daylight to catch the reflections to photograph.

I think it turned out a lot better than okay! It's pretty impressive. I hope to have the patience to try embossing some day.

Your journals, as always, are amazingly detailed. I especially like the lime green flyleaves you used in one or two of your journals.

 

 

Thanks nightwing

[USMCMom]

Yes, I tried wallpaper for book covers. I had been given a partial roll (not much left), so I gave it a try.

[onibocho]

I mix my PVA glue with Methyl Cellulose at about 60% PVA and 40% Methyl Cellulose which helps slow the dry time of PVA glue and also helps it spread on the paper easier. At this mixture the dry time is about 10 minutes workable 30 minutes full dry, but I still leave projects over night in my makeshift press.

 

Not sure if anyone has tried using that, but I pick it up from a local Paper Source shop, but Hollanders also has them. Its a powder mixed with water.

 

On a side note to that I've heard stories of people getting mold in old mixes. I haven't had that problem and my current mix is more than 6 months old. I mix the PVA and Methyl into smaller containers. I also mixed my Methyl Cellulose with filtered water instead of tap water, although I don't know if that made any difference really.