... homemade journal ...

[sdcurnow]

On your embossing... if you are not already, try using a Teflon "bone" folder. They tend to do less damage.

[TMLee]

On your embossing... if you are not already, try using a Teflon "bone" folder. They tend to do less damage.

 

Thanks for the tip sdcurnow...

I didn't knew such things existed.

Now to hunt for one.

Hmmmm ... They cost alot more !

[Daisy]

Hey TMLee! I've been reading for hours and I'm still only on page 19 of a 42 page thread! All so very lovely.

 

I'm no bookbinder, but I've been a sewer for many years. Regarding waxed vs. unwaxed thread, I just want you to know that you don't have to rely on getting a good pre-waxed thread. I saw where you knew to drag it through beeswax, but did you know that you can then iron it in? Historically, and especially in high-end sewing, thread is not just waxed, it is both waxed and ironed to cause the wax to absorb into the thread and become stronger and waterproof. Waxing it and then ironing it in will enable you to turn your unwaxed thread into a waxed thread just as good as that which you buy pre-waxed.

 

You've already got the beeswax, and using the clothes iron you already have at a low setting, fold the waxed thread into an old rag or a paper towel, and press until the wax melts. Let it cool and use it as you normally would. That's all there is to it. It's perfectly acceptable to do as much as you want; lay the twist or skein of thread in the paper towel in such a way that it's mostly a single layer, and iron it. If you want to wax it more than once, you can do that too. You'll iron in your folds, but as long as you have no sharp creases in it when you iron it, no one will ever know when you actually use it because the wax flexes.

 

Be sure to test it on some scrap thread or cord before you do a long length of it, because you do get some color change by melting in the wax (just as you do when it's wet), plus you want to make sure the thread/cord can take it without melting, if it's synthetic. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. No more deciding between this unwaxed cotton and that waxed linen -- you can wax any thread that will take the iron.

 

My apologies if you've already figured this out -- hope this helps!

 

P.S. You mentioned that polyester thread frays a great deal -- you can wax polyester thread this way as well, and it will help. Just be sure to test a small sample of it. Also, you can generally use a cigarette lighter to lightly melt the end of any synthetic thread and keep it from fraying; it makes a very nice end. Just always test it first.

 

Lovely, lovely work!!!

Edited October 21, 2010 by Daisy

[Daisy]

P.P.S. I forgot to add, you can also gently heat seal the end of any synthetic ribbon (such as you use for bookmarks) with a lighter; if it's cotton or a synthetic mix, instead go to a sewing store -- like where you're getting your fat quarters -- and buy a little bottle of fray stopper to apply to the cut end. In the U.S. it's about $3 or so a bottle, and worth every penny; the bottle will last you years. It lends a much more finished look to a ribbon or a bookmark if the end isn't frayed.

 

Again, if you've already figured this out and I just haven't gotten to that post yet, my apologies!

Edited October 21, 2010 by Daisy

[TMLee]

Hey TMLee! I've been reading for hours and I'm still only on page 19 of a 42 page thread! All so very lovely.

 

I'm no bookbinder, but I've been a sewer for many years. Regarding waxed vs. unwaxed thread, I just want you to know that you don't have to rely on getting a good pre-waxed thread. I saw where you knew to drag it through beeswax, but did you know that you can then iron it in? Historically, and especially in high-end sewing, thread is not just waxed, it is both waxed and ironed to cause the wax to absorb into the thread and become stronger and waterproof. Waxing it and then ironing it in will enable you to turn your unwaxed thread into a waxed thread just as good as that which you buy pre-waxed.

 

You've already got the beeswax, and using the clothes iron you already have at a low setting, fold the waxed thread into an old rag or a paper towel, and press until the wax melts. Let it cool and use it as you normally would. That's all there is to it. It's perfectly acceptable to do as much as you want; lay the twist or skein of thread in the paper towel in such a way that it's mostly a single layer, and iron it. If you want to wax it more than once, you can do that too. You'll iron in your folds, but as long as you have no sharp creases in it when you iron it, no one will ever know when you actually use it because the wax flexes.

 

Be sure to test it on some scrap thread or cord before you do a long length of it, because you do get some color change by melting in the wax (just as you do when it's wet), plus you want to make sure the thread/cord can take it without melting, if it's synthetic. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. No more deciding between this unwaxed cotton and that waxed linen -- you can wax any thread that will take the iron.

 

My apologies if you've already figured this out -- hope this helps!

 

P.S. You mentioned that polyester thread frays a great deal -- you can wax polyester thread this way as well, and it will help. Just be sure to test a small sample of it. Also, you can generally use a cigarette lighter to lightly melt the end of any synthetic thread and keep it from fraying; it makes a very nice end. Just always test it first.

 

Lovely, lovely work!!!

 

Thanks Daisy for the tip.

I didn't know it could be done this way.

 

As for polyester threads, yes the ends can be sealed with a lighter.

Thanks for the tips.

Thank you for your interest too in this threadpost

[TMLee]

P.P.S. I forgot to add, you can also gently heat seal the end of any synthetic ribbon (such as you use for bookmarks) with a lighter; if it's cotton or a synthetic mix, instead go to a sewing store -- like where you're getting your fat quarters -- and buy a little bottle of fray stopper to apply to the cut end. In the U.S. it's about $3 or so a bottle, and worth every penny; the bottle will last you years. It lends a much more finished look to a ribbon or a bookmark if the end isn't frayed.

 

Again, if you've already figured this out and I just haven't gotten to that post yet, my apologies!

 

Yes Daisy, all my ribbon pagemarkers are sealed at their ends.

With a lighter though.

I have never heard nor seen a 'fray stopper' though :hmm1:

Wonder how it works ?

A sort of glue ?

[Daisy]

I have never heard nor seen a 'fray stopper' though :hmm1:

Wonder how it works ?

A sort of glue ?

 

I guess you could call it a glue, but it actually is a very thin liquid, and clear (at least the stuff I've always used) and putting it on you don't think it will do much because it's a lot like water. But it dries and stays somehow. It's almost like a superglue, but not even that thick, and definitely not sticky. If you do a Google search on fabric fray stop you'll see far more than you ever wanted to know.

 

I've never tried it, but in a pinch you could probably use a drop of candle wax... it would be hard to keep it only on the end, though. Or even put a bit of PVA glue on your finger and run the cut end of the ribbon through that: it dries clear, so that would probably work too. Obviously, it's too small an edge for pinking shears, but if you can't get fray stop and it won't take a lighter, try a tiny line of PVA glue right along the cut edge.

 

Glad I could help! Your work is just lovely!!!

Edited October 21, 2010 by Daisy

[TMLee]

I have never heard nor seen a 'fray stopper' though :hmm1:

Wonder how it works ?

A sort of glue ?

 

I guess you could call it a glue, but it actually is a very thin liquid, and clear (at least the stuff I've always used) and putting it on you don't think it will do much because it's a lot like water. But it dries and stays somehow. It's almost like a superglue, but not even that thick, and definitely not sticky. If you do a Google search on fabric fray stop you'll see far more than you ever wanted to know.

 

I've never tried it, but in a pinch you could probably use a drop of candle wax... it would be hard to keep it only on the end, though. Or even put a bit of PVA glue on your finger and run the cut end of the ribbon through that: it dries clear, so that would probably work too. Obviously, it's too small an edge for pinking shears, but if you can't get fray stop and it won't take a lighter, try a tiny line of PVA glue right along the cut edge.

 

Glad I could help! Your work is just lovely!!!

 

Thanks daisy.

Will keep an eye out for such stuff now that I know what it is

Much obliged

[Jon R.]

Nice job, first time or not. I'd rather write in my homemade journals and notebooks than in anything else. I've been thinking of turning a suede jacket I never wear (sleeves too long, and the jacket's entirely too heavy to be comfortable) into several bound books. And maybe one or two covers for refills that I could make myself, too. The stitching would be the tedious part for such a project, but it should be doable.

 

I hope you'll enjoy your hand-made items as much as I have enjoyed mine.

[TMLee]

Nice job, first time or not. I'd rather write in my homemade journals and notebooks than in anything else. I've been thinking of turning a suede jacket I never wear (sleeves too long, and the jacket's entirely too heavy to be comfortable) into several bound books. And maybe one or two covers for refills that I could make myself, too. The stitching would be the tedious part for such a project, but it should be doable.

 

I hope you'll enjoy your hand-made items as much as I have enjoyed mine.

 

Thanks ...

Yes indeed...

Its always great to be able to craft stuff purposemade...

[TMLee]

Trying out something different here ...

Found this wonderful print of antique Esterbrooks....

(the Estie fans here should be delighted ...)

 

Decided to do a quartet and more ...

Its a work in progress so this is what I have done so far...

All are in A5 size ...

 

This first pair of covers are in GEMATEX - Dark Purple ..

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20127%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Dark%20Purple/DSCF3538.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20127%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Dark%20Purple/DSCF3542.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20127%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Dark%20Purple/DSCF3548.jpg

This is my usual way of doing a bookcloth and paper cover seam.

But the graphics were too nice to lay to waste and in trying to save more of the graphics, I decided to vary this seam ...

 

Like so for this next cover in GEMATEX - Indian Red ...

I glued the seam to butt-join the paper cover

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3547.jpg

 

There is no overlay. Unlike the one above , here the bookcloth and paper are completely flush.

None overlaps the other.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3549.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3545.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3543.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3544.jpg

 

 

The covers now done in GEMATEX - Sap Green

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20129%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Sap%20Green/DSCF3552.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20129%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Sap%20Green/DSCF3553.jpg

 

 

and done in GEMATEX - Raw Umber

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20130%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Raw%20Umber/DSCF3557.jpg

 

 

The quartet of 4 assorted colours again ...

The one in Indian Red looks the most attractive ...

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20127%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Dark%20Purple/DSCF3542.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3544.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20129%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Sap%20Green/DSCF3553.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20130%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Raw%20Umber/DSCF3557.jpg

 

 

Quite charming ... the graphics in antique rendering ...

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20129%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Sap%20Green/DSCF3556.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20129%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Sap%20Green/DSCF3555.jpg

Edited November 7, 2010 by TMLee

[TMLee]

The Indian Red looked most attarctive , so I decided to stitch this one first to see how it will actually turn out.

 

Its not completed yet.

It awaits glue on the spine, a ribbon pagemarker, and Colophon , etc.

Pictured with an Esterbrook J

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3641.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3643.jpg

 

 

This series of journals are a little different. It is essentially bookcloth but with a front cover carrying the accent.

The paired sewing stations are also a little different. They are closer together but very slightly.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3645.jpg

[lio]

Hi TMLee,

 

I just read this thread over the last couple of evenings and let me just tell you that you have opened a new world to me. I used to think that making books obligately involved some complicated industrial processes. Discovering the traditional way of bookbinding through your trial and error process (and beautiful photography btw) was one of the most interesting experience. I really appreciate seeing how you keep perfecting your process through each iteration, reminds me of the basis of engineering

 

thanks for helping me set a new goal in my life, I have decided that someday I will be able to selfmake my own books.

 

regards,

lio

[TMLee]

Hi TMLee,

 

I just read this thread over the last couple of evenings and let me just tell you that you have opened a new world to me. I used to think that making books obligately involved some complicated industrial processes. Discovering the traditional way of bookbinding through your trial and error process (and beautiful photography btw) was one of the most interesting experience. I really appreciate seeing how you keep perfecting your process through each iteration, reminds me of the basis of engineering

 

thanks for helping me set a new goal in my life, I have decided that someday I will be able to selfmake my own books.

 

regards,

lio

 

 

Hi lio,

Thank you for your encouraging words.

 

Yes, I still try to improve my techniques, thinking of ways to better resolve certain stages of the process.

I believe there is still room for improvement whenever one devotes time to thinking through the various aspects.

 

To stoke your interest , you can start off with making your own cahier....

 

And BTW, welcome to FPN ...

 

rgds

TMLee

[TMLee]

This is the A6 version of the one in Indian Red GEMATEX bookcloth.

 

Here again I am trying something new...

I was rethinking on how to improve the seam between the bookcloth and the paper cover along the spine like featured above in the previous post ...

The bookcloth overlaps the paper and creates a bump there.

This is common.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20127%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Dark%20Purple/DSCF3548.jpg

 

 

 

I figured (and have also seen) the problem with this bump is that often it gets lifted out of its position as the book gets shelved frequently enough , brushing against this part.

So i decided to improve this part.

One way was to have it flushed by a butt-joint as featured above.

Another method is by overlapping yet maintaining the same flushed level.

 

This is how I did it ...

 

I added another thin card - same thickness as the cover paper - onto the greyboard covers.

I used a thickish magazine cover.

After gluing into place, I cut out the channel that will receive the paper cover.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/Journal%20128A%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3651.jpg

 

a closeup.

The channel is formed by cutting then peeling away the thin added paper.

The channel is exactly the paper thickness in its depth.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/Journal%20128A%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3652.jpg

 

 

Next ,

I glued the paper into the channel.

This means that the spine bookcloth border will sit over this part and be fully flushed with the paper.

No bulges whatsoever as is expected in an overlap method.

Used the bonefolder to score the paper along the edge of the channel to create a crisp edge to receive the bookcloth.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/Journal%20128A%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3653.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/Journal%20128A%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3657.jpg

 

The spine bookcloth glued over the paper.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/Journal%20128A%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3654.jpg

 

 

Finished.

This technique is a lot more elegant.

You don't see and feel the butt-joint.

You can see the bookcloth glued over the paper.

The paper goes under the bookcloth.

The edges of the bookcloth can't be seen and are not exposed.

The paper has no edges to expose.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/Journal%20128A%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3659.jpg

 

Another closeup

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/Journal%20128A%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3661.jpg

 

 

The flush is near perfect.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/Journal%20128A%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3656.jpg

 

 

The covers completed

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/Journal%20128A%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3658.jpg

Edited November 13, 2010 by TMLee

[TMLee]

This is Journal #128 "Esterbrook - GEMATEX Indian Red"

 

This is the completed one.

A5 size.

Pictured with a Delta DolceVita Standard.

With and without the bands deployed.

 

Front

... with and without the bands deployed ...

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3666.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3675.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3667.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3668.jpg

 

 

The spine has been glued

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3669.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3670.jpg

 

 

Full spread

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3671.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3677.jpg

 

 

Flyleaves are a very dark maroon.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3676.jpg

 

 

 

 

The inktestpage and colophon

Paper is NATURALIS Vanilla White smooth 135gsm.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3674.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3682.jpg

 

 

Some closeups of the cover graphics ...

Rather charming this journal.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3678.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3679.jpg

 

Being offered for sale HERE ....

Edited November 15, 2010 by TMLee

[TMLee]

This is the second of a quartet

 

This is Journal #129 Esterbrook - GEMATEX Sap Green

 

Pictured with an Esterbrook J Black for scale

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20129%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Sap%20Green/DSCF3683.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20129%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Sap%20Green/DSCF3687.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20129%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Sap%20Green/DSCF3691.jpg

 

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20129%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Sap%20Green/DSCF3689.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20129%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Sap%20Green/DSCF3690.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20129%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Sap%20Green/DSCF3697.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20129%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Sap%20Green/DSCF3694.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20129%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Sap%20Green/DSCF3696.jpg

 

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20129%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Sap%20Green/DSCF3688.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20129%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Sap%20Green/DSCF3692.jpg

 

 

Being offered for sale HERE

[TMLee]

This is Journal #128A Esterbrook - GEMATEX Indian Red

 

This one is in A6 size.

The smaller version of the #128 above

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/Journal%20128A%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3707.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/Journal%20128A%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3723.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/Journal%20128A%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3721.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/Journal%20128A%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3722.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/Journal%20128A%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3709.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/Journal%20128A%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3726.jpg

 

The namecard slot

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/Journal%20128A%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3717.jpg

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/Journal%20128A%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3714.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/Journal%20128A%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3716.jpg

 

I like this journal bcos of the new way of doing the spine accent.

The paper goes under the bookcloth. But the whole thing remains flush.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/Journal%20128A%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3719.jpg

 

A closeup of the graphics

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/Journal%20128A%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3725.jpg http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/TMLee/2010%20JOURNALS/Journal%20128%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/Journal%20128A%20Esterbrook%20-%20GEMATEX%20Indian%20Red/DSCF3724.jpg

Edited November 16, 2010 by TMLee

[DavidHandmade]

Hey - !

Beautiful work with your latest Esterbrook set, Dude!

Esp. the detail with the "flush" bookcloth and cover art...very nice...

I like the Indian Red color combo the best, but the Green is a nice match, too.

 

Good Stuff!

[TMLee]

Hey - !

Beautiful work with your latest Esterbrook set, Dude!

Esp. the detail with the "flush" bookcloth and cover art...very nice...

I like the Indian Red color combo the best, but the Green is a nice match, too.

 

Good Stuff!

 

 

Thanks DavidHandmade

I only have material for just one more A6 sized journal.

Wondering which of the remaining 3 book cloth colours to use.