Early 120 Kef--Dry And Scratchy?

[atomix]

I recently won a Pelikan 120 on eBay. I was excited as this was my first vintage Pelikan, although I knew it was missing the clip and top of the cap. Upon receipt I saw the nib was a KEF, which fits my preference, wonderful I thought!

 

My excitement quickly faded once I had filled the pen and started to write. Quick circles in both directions elicited scratchiness and many spots on the circle where the pen caught paper. Worse still, the nib was terribly dry, really only flowing when I took advantage of its semi-flex ability. While the pens ability to flex was wonderful it did not make for easy everyday cursive writing! Writing sample shown was done with much care.

 

Looking at the nib under a loupe revealed no obvious problems; the tines were in good alignment and nib appeared to be a slight oblique, although with a sharp profile. I attempted to spread the times slightly to improve flow, however with the springiness of the nib I had difficulty getting much spread. I hesitated to take micromesh to the nib to smooth the rough edges as this seemed to be a wholly different and worse set of issues than I had ever come across (have played with a dozen pens to smooth much more minor issues)

 

So, any advice on helping these early nibs flow? Is this scratchiness and sharp edged behavior typical? Time to go nib shopping, or does anyone want to try their hand at my nib...can't get worse!

[atomix]

One more photo, showing the nib. Couldnt find any more of my daughters hello kitty stamps to include in the picture, sorry.

[sargetalon]

You seem to have already done a fair bit of what I'd normally suggest like aligning the tines and widening the gap. Flow wise, old ink and debris can certainly clog the feed. A good soak or even a flossing with a brass shim might help flow. Better flow could also help some of the scratchiness. Also, is the nib we'll seated on the feed? That could make a difference too. Can you provide any close-ups of the nib?

[atomix]

You seem to have already done a fair bit of what I'd normally suggest like aligning the tines and widening the gap. Flow wise, old ink and debris can certainly clog the feed. A good soak or even a flossing with a brass shim might help flow. Better flow could also help some of the scratchiness. Also, is the nib we'll seated on the feed? That could make a difference too. Can you provide any close-ups of the nib?

I did put the nib in my ultrasonic with a bit of Dawn for a good 15 mi utes, hot water as well, so I think it should be pretty clear, but another soak couldn't hurt.

 

Nib moves around left to right on the feed if you really push it (like spreading tines), is that normal on these?

 

New pics attached...who knew that you could take a picture right through a loupe?...and darn most are too big. Back in a bit.

[atomix]

More pics, times are aligned at 45degree angle.

[BMG]

Doesn't look like there's much iridium left on that nib. I realize it's a KEF, but still.

[carlos.q]

From my limited experience with Pelikan K nibs I can tell you they require a very light touch.

Edited January 27, 2015 by carlos.q

[atomix]

Carlos, interesting, I'll try to be extra extra light. Certainly I have had some dramatic ink splattering on fast upstrokes that were not light strokes.

 

I did notice the iridium looked...almost gone. Was hoping that this was just somehow normal for the Pelikan EF's, but it doesn't sound like it!

 

Suppose my other option is to break out the snips and start working on another stub for my collection.

[sargetalon]

It does look like an unusually sparse amount of tipping. That may be where the issue lies. Be careful with the ultrasonic and the old ebonite feeds. I always get nervous with them, maybe needlessly so, but they do get fragile with time.

[carlos.q]

 

Suppose my other option is to break out the snips and start working on another stub for my collection.

 

Please don't. Remember that these are vintage nibs and will never be made again. If you don't like the nib I suggest you sell it or exchange it for another one more to your liking.

 

If you notice the first picture in post #5 it appears that you will reach the nib's sweet spot by holding your pen at a higher angle than a traditional nib. In other words, hold the pen like a ballpoint and see if it feels better... And don't forget the very light touch!

[Bo Bo Olson]

It is not the original nib...which would be gold plated or steel, not 14 K gold.

 

That nib has not cleaned up much at all for having been in an ultra sonic bath.

It looks like a crack has developed on the underside of your right tine...or is that ink that was not wiped off. A tooth brush is a help to clean gold nibs....not advised on gold plated ones.

 

IMO as a Kugal nib there should be a tad more on top of the nib....could be some one tried to grind it a bit for some odd reason. Perhaps to make it XXF on top?

Or it could be a Waverly type tip...like I have on my MB 24 1/2 Deluxe from that time too. The bend of the nib would take that away.

First though check that 'crack'.

 

 

The nib looks a tad bent.....perhaps try to straighten it....after you decide it is not cracked, by putting it on a notebook pad, and pressing lightly with something hard like a drill bit end.

[atomix]

Appreciate the replies and suggestions. First off, the nib was nice and ink covered in the photos, a combination of noodlers creeping out and using a rag to unscrew the nib. There is a crack in one of the 'fins' of the feed on the underside, top appears solid.

 

It is interesting that this is a non original nib. I will hold off until at least the Baltimore pen show in March and see if I can get a professional opinion in person. You have convinced me to put away my stub making skills until the next broken time pen crosses my desk!

[Bo Bo Olson]

Do try a different ink, that don't creep.

[atomix]

good news! After working on a few other pens, I looked back at the 120. I was a little more aggressive with spreading the tines this time, and managed to achieve good wet flow. Then the problem became what look like a odd oblique nib, with a sweet spot that really didn't exist, no matter how I tried to align the tines.

 

Having gone that far, I broke out the micro mesh and began creating a new sweet spot by taking off a little bit of the Iridium. After smoothing a few rough edges on the sharp corners, and smoothing the inner tines, I had a pen I was genuinely happy with! As you can see it lays down a rather wet line but maintains its flexibility. The sweet spot is still rather small which I suppose helps train me for all the stubs and italics I like to use. It's not the easiest pen I have to write with, but is very smooth now when used at the correct angle and is a fun vintage pen to have in my collection.

 

Thanks all for the help!

Edited January 31, 2015 by atomix

[Bo Bo Olson]

I should have accented looks a tad bent...a lot more.

[atomix]

I should have accented looks a tad bent...a lot more.

Wow, after looking at lots of nib pictures I am realizing mine is ... Well... Specially fatigued. What the hell happened here? Dropped out of a third floor window?

 

All I know is the sweet spot is a little small (way better than my Lamy2000 EF,) but it writes wonderfully.

[Bo Bo Olson]

Put the nib on a paper pad like a spiral note book, use the round end of a drill bit and press the nib straight.

But you've already ground the hell out of it.