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Super Pinks - Operation Stone Age


amberleadavis

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DTR is a nice color. Have not used it (short of dipping yet) but I expect it to perform fine. Close to a true red when wet and dries with a slightly brown hue.

 

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I have some questions on how to correctly mix the Webster Enidama ink. I'm trying to follow Scuba Steve's directions. I put ½ ml in a vial. Added ¼ ml water. Shook it up a good bit. Then noticed that Ambers instructions mentioned something about hot water. Was I supposed to use hot water? Is this the only ink we should use hot water for dilution, or is that true for all the vintage powdered inks, or do we use regular cold water to dilute?

 

And it does seem that the Webster's leaves little bits on the side of the vial. I guess this is it showing how it doesn't go into solution? Or do I need to shakes more, and use the hot water?

 

Suggestions?

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White Lotus, I've used hot water for a few reasons, some of the inks required hot water; I boil the water to prevent contamination; particles become part of the solution easier with hot water. I've looked for the original instructions on the Edimina and I can't see if hot water was required.

Fountain pens are my preferred COLOR DELIVERY SYSTEM (in part because crayons melt in Las Vegas).

Create a Ghostly Avatar and I'll send you a letter. Check out some Ink comparisons: The Great PPS Comparison 

Don't know where to start?  Look at the Inky Topics O'day.  Then, see inks sorted by color: Blue Purple Brown Red Green Dark Green Orange Black Pinks Yellows Blue-Blacks Grey/Gray UVInks Turquoise/Teal MURKY

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I have some questions on how to correctly mix the Webster Enidama ink. I'm trying to follow Scuba Steve's directions. I put ½ ml in a vial. Added ¼ ml water. Shook it up a good bit. Then noticed that Ambers instructions mentioned something about hot water. Was I supposed to use hot water? Is this the only ink we should use hot water for dilution, or is that true for all the vintage powdered inks, or do we use regular cold water to dilute?

 

And it does seem that the Webster's leaves little bits on the side of the vial. I guess this is it showing how it doesn't go into solution? Or do I need to shakes more, and use the hot water?

 

Suggestions?

 

I diluted the Enidama 1:1, and it came out quite faint; see my sheets here: https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/282861-websters-enidama-blue-black-diluted/

I'm letting it evaporate back down to the shipped concentration.

Until you ink a pen, it is merely a pretty stick. --UK Mike

 

My arsenal, in order of acquisition: Sailor 21 Pocket Pen M, Cross Solo M, Online Calligraphy, Monteverde Invincia F, Hero 359 M, Jinhao X450 M, Levenger True Writer M, Jinhao 159 M, Platinum Balance F, TWSBI Classic 1.1 stub, Platinum Preppy 0.3 F, 7 Pilot Varsity M disposables refillables, Speedball penholder, TWSBI 580 USA EF, Pilot MR, Noodler's Ahab 1.1 stub, another Preppy 0.3, Preppy EF 0.2, ASA Sniper F, Click Majestic F, Kaweco Sport M, Pilot Prera F, Baoer 79 M (fake Starwalker), Hero 616 M (fake Parker), Jinhao X750 Shimmering Sands M . . .

31 and counting :D

 

DaveBj

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Thanks Amber. I'll try hot water tomorrow. I remember you said the powder had difficulty going into solution. Don't know if the age of the ink could be part of that problem.

 

cheryl

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Hot water just allows to take more into solution. It's been too long to remember the scientific terminology and explanations. If you're still getting gunk, 1/4 ml is probably not enough.

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Next up, Dragon Toots Turquoise. GREAT. So far, the most saturated and richest of the inks. While it is somewhat similar to Kon-peki, I like this MUCH better. I'd buy it in a minute.

 

The dip pens shows a lot of variation in shade --the heaviest amount of ink after dipping is deep and dark; then the pen is almost out of ink, bright and more turquoise. LOVE IT LONGTIME.

 

fpn_1421520827__dt_turq.jpeg

god I love this color

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Hot water just allows to take more into solution. It's been too long to remember the scientific terminology and explanations. If you're still getting gunk, 1/4 ml is probably not enough.

 

That would be a 50% reduction, but I'm not sure my sample wasn't fully in solution. But I'll try again tomorrow and see if I can get different results. Like the vintage blue-black though.

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god I love this color

 

Truly, the best of the collection. Although the Thistle and DT Red are really fine, as well!

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Who's using the DT Red?

 

Now that has aged a bit, the ink is even better. Rich, smooth. Intense! Love it!

 

fpn_1422409819__dtred.jpeg

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I'm so excited to get more of these two dragon toots inks. I only saved one fill of each for me.

Fountain pens are my preferred COLOR DELIVERY SYSTEM (in part because crayons melt in Las Vegas).

Create a Ghostly Avatar and I'll send you a letter. Check out some Ink comparisons: The Great PPS Comparison 

Don't know where to start?  Look at the Inky Topics O'day.  Then, see inks sorted by color: Blue Purple Brown Red Green Dark Green Orange Black Pinks Yellows Blue-Blacks Grey/Gray UVInks Turquoise/Teal MURKY

 

 

 

 

 

 

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DT Red is nice. It's eye-searing when wet, but subdues when dry which is a bonus for me.

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Sheen on Dragon Toots Turquoise is C R A Z Y !!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

W/ Flash

fpn_1422474959__dragont01a.jpg

 

Nicely done! I got great sheen, but my scan didn't pick it up. Yours looks so amazing, it makes me fall in love with that ink all over again!

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OK, I'm sorry but I don't have any amazing pictures, but I wanted to share some of my experiences with the Websters Enidama. Even with ½ ml H2O to 1 ml ink concentrate, after a short while (minutes) you can find sediment at the bottom of the vial. I used hot water in the mixing. Even at this concentration, the value on the page is a bit light.

 

Interestingly (?) when used with a crow quill dip pen nib the color is darker and more inky as it should be. The color is a blue-grey. Kind of like Blue Merle but it's definitely a blue.

 

I might try it in some different pens just to see how it appears. I'm also going to let my mixture rest a couple days to see if that helps the powder meld with the water better.

 

 

Also: does Sterling violet stain? And what kind of dilutions are folks trying?

And, anyone know what Enidama means?

Edited by white_lotus
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OK, I'm sorry but I don't have any amazing pictures, but I wanted to share some of my experiences with the Websters Enidama. Even with ½ ml H2O to 1 ml ink concentrate, after a short while (minutes) you can find sediment at the bottom of the vial. I used hot water in the mixing. Even at this concentration, the value on the page is a bit light.

 

Interestingly (?) when used with a crow quill dip pen nib the color is darker and more inky as it should be. The color is a blue-grey. Kind of like Blue Merle but it's definitely a blue.

 

I might try it in some different pens just to see how it appears. I'm also going to let my mixture rest a couple days to see if that helps the powder meld with the water better.

 

 

Also: does Sterling violet stain? And what kind of dilutions are folks trying?

And, anyone know what Enidama means?

I'm using sterling violet right now and I do see a bit of staining on a converter. Nothing major. I use it undiluted.

fpn_1434432647__fpn_1425200643__fpn_1425160066__super_pinks-bottle_200x159.jpg

 


Check out my blog at Inks and Pens

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