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What Are Esterbrook J Dual Jewel Pens Made Of?


lordz

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Hey guys,

 

What are Esterbrook J dual jewel pens made of? I am thinking of vapor bathing one of my Esties, and don't remember what they are made of. Google doesn't remember either, apparently.

 

I basically need to figure out the ideal solvent. Once I have this, I will hang the pen and cap, by feed and clip respectively. The pieces will be hung inside a jar, above a thin layer of solvent. They will stay there for a few minutes. After this, I will transfer the hanging pen and cap outside to air dry. Hopefully, when I am done, I will have a crazy-shiny Estie.

 

Thanks,

 

Lord Zephyrian

Edited by Lord Zephyrian

"Minds are like parachutes--you might have lost yours, but that doesn't mean you can borrow mine."

--A wise, wise man.

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The actual pen bodies and caps? Aren't they Celluloid? Why use a solvent, why not a quick ultrasonic bath in clean tap water (of just the cap and barrel of course, not like the entire pen all together)?

Edited by KBeezie
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IMO, ANY kind of "solvent" can be dangerous. I once used DMSO, and even light contact on the barrel began to degrade it. I'm assuming the fumes or vapor will do the same.

 

The plastic is what used to be called "pyralin", which is another variation of cellulose or nitrocellulose plastic, and whatever the variation, they all seem to be allergic to most anything known as a solvent.

 

A "pen cleaner" kind of product like Koh-I-Noor Rapido-Eze in a solution with water works well for all parts without any problems, but even that, it turns out, is bad if soaked for a very long period of time (I once forgot and left a couple of renew points in a Koh-I-Nor solution for about a month, and when I pulled them out, the threaded sleeve practically disintegrated in my hand). :yikes:

 

For me, the "conventional" cleaning protocols (pen cleaner or soap/water/ammonia mixes in a sonic jewelry cleaner for 2 or 3 passes) work just fine for all the parts. But if you try the solvent vapor process, please let us know how it turns out, OK?

Best Regards
Paul


“Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”
– Albert Einstein

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The actual pen bodies and caps? Aren't they Celluloid? Why use a solvent, why not a quick ultrasonic bath in clean tap water (of just the cap and barrel of course, not like the entire pen all together)?

Yeah... I lack the funds for an ultrasonic machine.

"Minds are like parachutes--you might have lost yours, but that doesn't mean you can borrow mine."

--A wise, wise man.

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IMO, ANY kind of "solvent" can be dangerous. I once used DMSO, and even light contact on the barrel began to degrade it. I'm assuming the fumes or vapor will do the same.

 

The plastic is what used to be called "pyralin", which is another variation of cellulose or nitrocellulose plastic, and whatever the variation, they all seem to be allergic to most anything known as a solvent.

 

A "pen cleaner" kind of product like Koh-I-Noor Rapido-Eze in a solution with water works well for all parts without any problems, but even that, it turns out, is bad if soaked for a very long period of time (I once forgot and left a couple of renew points in a Koh-I-Nor solution for about a month, and when I pulled them out, the threaded sleeve practically disintegrated in my hand). :yikes:

 

For me, the "conventional" cleaning protocols (pen cleaner or soap/water/ammonia mixes in a sonic jewelry cleaner for 2 or 3 passes) work just fine for all the parts. But if you try the solvent vapor process, please let us know how it turns out, OK?

Alright! I think I will try a tiny, tiny bit of acetone. What do you mean "allergic" though? does it actually cause discoloring, or just soften it?

"Minds are like parachutes--you might have lost yours, but that doesn't mean you can borrow mine."

--A wise, wise man.

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Hey guys,

 

What are Esterbrook J dual jewel pens made of? I am thinking of vapor bathing one of my Esties, and don't remember what they are made of. Google doesn't remember either, apparently.

 

I basically need to figure out the ideal solvent. Once I have this, I will hang the pen and cap, by feed and clip respectively. The pieces will be hung inside a jar, above a thin layer of solvent. They will stay there for a few minutes. After this, I will transfer the hanging pen and cap outside to air dry. Hopefully, when I am done, I will have a crazy-shiny Estie.

 

Thanks,

 

Lord Zephyrian

You will not have a crazy-shiny Estie, you will have a mess.

San Francisco International Pen Show - The next “Funnest Pen Show” is on schedule for August 23-24-25, 2024.  Watch the show website for registration details. 
 

My PM box is usually full. Just email me: my last name at the google mail address.

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Lord Z.

 

Farmboy is not only an expert pen restorer/repairperson.

 

He is a Chemist.

 

He is Especially knowledgeable on pen materials.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

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Alright! I think I will try a tiny, tiny bit of acetone. What do you mean "allergic" though? does it actually cause discoloring, or just soften it?

 

Both, but mostly softens. It breaks down and softens the plastic to where it can pick up and hold any dust particles, as well as fingerprints if you happen to touch it inadvertently. I have a nice white nurse pen part that I dare not use as a murder weapon ... :blush:

Best Regards
Paul


“Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”
– Albert Einstein

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I picked up an ultrasonic cleaner at a resale shop for $3. It is basically your home jewelry model, but it does what I need it to do.

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Yeah... I lack the funds for an ultrasonic machine.

Not sure what # you have in mind, but they range from $10 USD and up. Mine was $40 USD shipped (Ivation IVUC96S which has 3 power settings, and the basin comes off the base for easy rinsing).

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They're made from cellulose (similar to what Noodler's Ahab and Noodler's Nib Creaper are made of), not true celluloid. Cellulose is more stable compared to the old celluloid made with camphor/nitrocellulose but the colors are less vivid.

Edited by discopig
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Lord Z.

 

Farmboy is not only an expert pen restorer/repairperson.

 

He is a Chemist.

 

He is Especially knowledgeable on pen materials.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

Thanks! How would I contact him? EDIT I'm a moron...

Edited by Lord Zephyrian

"Minds are like parachutes--you might have lost yours, but that doesn't mean you can borrow mine."

--A wise, wise man.

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Both, but mostly softens. It breaks down and softens the plastic to where it can pick up and hold any dust particles, as well as fingerprints if you happen to touch it inadvertently. I have a nice white nurse pen part that I dare not use as a murder weapon ... :blush:

Huh. So permanent? Or is it a matter of touching it before it has a chance to dry out?

"Minds are like parachutes--you might have lost yours, but that doesn't mean you can borrow mine."

--A wise, wise man.

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Not sure what # you have in mind, but they range from $10 USD and up. Mine was $40 USD shipped (Ivation IVUC96S which has 3 power settings, and the basin comes off the base for easy rinsing).

Really? I thought a rig like that might cost me a few hundred. Then again, I paid $2200 for a 3D printer, so I shall not harp on a bout prices...

"Minds are like parachutes--you might have lost yours, but that doesn't mean you can borrow mine."

--A wise, wise man.

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They're made from cellulose (similar to what Noodler's Ahab and Noodler's Nib Creaper are made of), not true celluloid. Cellulose is more stable compared to the old celluloid made with camphor/nitrocellulose but the colors are less vivid.

I've actually made nitrocellulose before. Fascinating stuff. I wonder what solvents will dissolve it?

"Minds are like parachutes--you might have lost yours, but that doesn't mean you can borrow mine."

--A wise, wise man.

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Really? I thought a rig like that might cost me a few hundred. Then again, I paid $2200 for a 3D printer, so I shall not harp on a bout prices...

Nope easily $10-50, the $10 ones tend to be really small usually meant for like rings and necklaces and such, but usually enough to fit a pen barrel or something in. The Ivation one I have has enough room to fit something like a CD/DVD into (comes with a holder for it). So if you were aiming at $30-50 you can easily get a decent one and just use tap water for the most part (at most diluted ammonia).

 

Also for very small pieces that can fit into a sample vial, like a feed or section, I usually fill a sample vial with water drop the object into it, screw the cap, and put it into the ultrasonic's basin with water as well, which wills till work thru the sample vial, but anything that comes off the object stays restricted to the water inside of the sample vial. So you don't have to rinse out the main water as often.

 

I like that mine has a low power setting for more delicate objects, for example in jewelry if you were to clean something with mother of pearl on it, you wouldn't want to do a normal cycle or high power as it could crack or dislodge the material. (I've yet to come across a situation for a pen though).

 

But I would do some reading up on it, it's not like you just throw a whole pen into it, usually pieces at a time, and mainly as needed. Ultrasonic cleaners won't get rid of liquids or something trapped with no where to go, it's mainly good for breaking down solids and tarnish/etc.

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Either Ocala Bruce or Farmboy posted a (semi) sticky telling how they put the ultimate shine on an Estie. (I stick with Sunshine cloth...once the grunge is cleaned off, I'm done.)

Washington Nationals 2019: the fight for .500; "stay in the fight"; WON the fight

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I should mention, J series pens are not celluloid.

 

FB

San Francisco International Pen Show - The next “Funnest Pen Show” is on schedule for August 23-24-25, 2024.  Watch the show website for registration details. 
 

My PM box is usually full. Just email me: my last name at the google mail address.

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Nope easily $10-50, the $10 ones tend to be really small usually meant for like rings and necklaces and such, but usually enough to fit a pen barrel or something in. The Ivation one I have has enough room to fit something like a CD/DVD into (comes with a holder for it). So if you were aiming at $30-50 you can easily get a decent one and just use tap water for the most part (at most diluted ammonia).

 

Also for very small pieces that can fit into a sample vial, like a feed or section, I usually fill a sample vial with water drop the object into it, screw the cap, and put it into the ultrasonic's basin with water as well, which wills till work thru the sample vial, but anything that comes off the object stays restricted to the water inside of the sample vial. So you don't have to rinse out the main water as often.

 

I like that mine has a low power setting for more delicate objects, for example in jewelry if you were to clean something with mother of pearl on it, you wouldn't want to do a normal cycle or high power as it could crack or dislodge the material. (I've yet to come across a situation for a pen though).

 

But I would do some reading up on it, it's not like you just throw a whole pen into it, usually pieces at a time, and mainly as needed. Ultrasonic cleaners won't get rid of liquids or something trapped with no where to go, it's mainly good for breaking down solids and tarnish/etc.

Thanks! I will go and probably get one. I might also use it on my coin collection.

"Minds are like parachutes--you might have lost yours, but that doesn't mean you can borrow mine."

--A wise, wise man.

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You will not have a crazy-shiny Estie, you will have a mess.

Look up "acetone 3D print" This would be sheerly experimental.

Edited by Lord Zephyrian

"Minds are like parachutes--you might have lost yours, but that doesn't mean you can borrow mine."

--A wise, wise man.

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