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Lamy2000 - Resistance In Piston Mechanism Normal?


strawberry

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Hello :)

Yesterday I bought a very nice black Lamy2000 with a medium nib. Before inking it up for the first time I flushed it with cold water to remove any factory residue out of the barrel and the feed. When moving the piston mechanism I noticed that there was some resistance. Not that much, but I noticed it. This is my first Lamy with a piston mechanism and I don`t want to damage it. So, is it normal that there is a little resistance when the mechanism is moved?

Thanks in advance,

strawberry

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Mine is pretty smooth. If you feel like there's too much resistance some silicon grease on the piston should help smooth it out.

Pelikan 140 EF | Pelikan 140 OBB | Pelikan M205 0.4mm stub | Pilot Custom Heritage 912 PO | Pilot Metropolitan M | TWSBI 580 EF | Waterman 52 1/2v

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I've had 2 2000's so far. Both have had resistance when turning the piston. So in my experience, it's normal. But the guys above suggest otherwise. *shrug*

 

To me, "silky smooth" is a Pelikan piston knob. There's zero resistance there. Both the 2000's have had resistance, but they've not been difficult to turn. No real effort required. If it's "not that much" as you say, I wouldn't be worried. But you can always open it up and put grease in there if you wish.

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I own a Lamy 2000, have owned 3 previously. Of the 4, 1 had a piston with some resistance, which a small dab of silicon grease solved. The other 3 have been rather smooth

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Is your Lamy 2000 brand new? If it's used the piston may need to be re-greased with some silicone grease, not much is required just a little bit around the piston head, and working it up and down the barrel a little bit.

 

Disassembly is also pretty easy. And you'll least find out if there's more to it than just needing to be re-greased.

 

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If you see it like that, it is "Simple come bonjour"

 

But I wonder if all parts react as docile as in that vid.

 

BTW, what does he do with the rod into the cap when he unscrews the tassie? Just give pressure?

 

 

D.ick

~

KEEP SAFE, WEAR A MASK, KEEP A DISTANCE.

Freedom exists by virtue of self limitation.

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If you see it like that, it is "Simple come bonjour"

 

But I wonder if all parts react as docile as in that vid.

 

BTW, what does he do with the rod into the cap when he unscrews the tassie? Just give pressure?

 

 

D.ick

Don't know about the tassie (the top of the cap?), but I Do know that unscrewing the blind cap and getting the piston out was pretty easy and was pretty easy to grease back up and get it back together. Likewise unscrewing the section and getting to the nib and feed was pretty easy for me. I haven't bothered with the cap as there was no need to.

 

By comparison, it's easier to disassemble for maintenance than my Montblanc 225, both of which are tool-less, which in turn is easier than say a Pelikan M250 (which I've not done as it seems like it requires a heat gun and knockout block just to get out).

 

I did both the Lamy 2k and Montblanc 225 about the same time because the L2K was just a tiny bit stiff, but not really a big deal and the MB225 was getting a bit 'creaky' working the piston. Both of which are much better now. With the M250 I just remove the nib/feed collar and with a toothpick get a tiny bit of silicone grease down to the edge of the piston head, and just work it up the barrel a few times, and then take a good quality q-tip and just kind of rub around to grab any possible excess. Supposedly the same can be done for the Lamy 2K if you do not desire disassembling the rear portion, since the section is easily unscrewed.

Edited by KBeezie
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I greased up my lamy 2000 so much it barely feels it has a piston inside... as in it's like the piston mech slides in and out in teflon or something

heck my TWSBI mini still feels substantial in terms of the piston mech...

but I like the Lamy 2000's user serviceability ahhh the beauty of 1960s design no tools no nothing just you and your hands as "tools"

MB 220-225 seems to follow the same rules... not sure if true

Edited by Algester
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If you see it like that, it is "Simple come bonjour"

 

But I wonder if all parts react as docile as in that vid.

 

BTW, what does he do with the rod into the cap when he unscrews the tassie? Just give pressure?

 

 

D.ick

just give a firm pressure think of using a "wrench and a counter force"

I wont say that they are as docile as that video because I can't pull out the makrolon overlay from my lamy 2000's section so is the piston rod which I still need to use a rod pusher to get it out

Edited by Algester
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Mine's smooth too, shouldn't have any resistance unless used for a long time.

Lamy 2000 FP, PP, BP, MFP & RB. Mont Blanc Meisterstück 161 Le Grand Platinum BP & Heritage 1912 FP.

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Thanks for your answers. I think I`m getting me some silicone grease and treat it with that.

 

One piece of advice: unless you know what you're doing (I don't!), a Lamy 2000 can be tricky to disassemble - and it may be better to avoid doing so. I've seen a couple of people (Brian Goulet?) suggesting that you apply the silicone grease with a cotton bud: 'Smear' a bit around the inner circumference of the piston barrel, towards the bottom of the barrel, then advance and retract the piston mechanism a few times. Something like that, anyway!

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I'll probably put some grease in mine too, since I think all piston mechanisms should be smooth as silk. And since I'm such a fan of the 2000's design, which I view to be "almost perfect," I think the piston should be perfectly easy to operate.

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One piece of advice: unless you know what you're doing (I don't!), a Lamy 2000 can be tricky to disassemble - and it may be better to avoid doing so. I've seen a couple of people (Brian Goulet?) suggesting that you apply the silicone grease with a cotton bud: 'Smear' a bit around the inner circumference of the piston barrel, towards the bottom of the barrel, then advance and retract the piston mechanism a few times. Something like that, anyway!

Just remove the nib section from the body. I find with the 2000 a cotton bud is rather thick and so I use a straightened out paper clip and, very carefully, deposited just the smallest drop of silicone grease up towards the piston. No chance of any damage unless you try to screw the nib section back too hard.

Peter

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One piece of advice: unless you know what you're doing (I don't!), a Lamy 2000 can be tricky to disassemble - and it may be better to avoid doing so. I've seen a couple of people (Brian Goulet?) suggesting that you apply the silicone grease with a cotton bud: 'Smear' a bit around the inner circumference of the piston barrel, towards the bottom of the barrel, then advance and retract the piston mechanism a few times. Something like that, anyway!

Yes, that's the easiest way. Just go in from the front with a greased Q-tip. Although the pen is easy to disassemble from the piston end (something that I love about it), you don't need to do that at all.

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I used a toothpick, with a very small dab of silicon grease on it and applied it to the piston.

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Here is the video done by Brian Goulet. I chose to do exactly as he did and it worked very well for me. My only dificult at fisrt was to unscrew the section, which was over tight a little.

 

 

Mine Lamy 2000 came with a very stiff piston. I mean, very stiff. An now it is so smooth as it can be.

 

I do the same with my Pelikan M 200 from time to time, since I use Noodlers ink, which wears down the silicone grease quite fast.

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